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to be honest ive no idea theres nothing in service history so i presume its not been done, but i will defo change fluid with discs n pads

I've just been reading up on the yellow stuff and people have mixed views on them, for some they work well and others not so, have you had any experience with them? Has anyone had experience with ATE discs and ATE ceramic pads, I can get these for 275 all round, I've had the standard ate discs and pads on a Leon cupra years ago, however sold the car shortly after so never got to bed them in, Usually I just get standard brembos or pagids, they've both been very good, brembos never had that initial cold bite but very long lasting and very little brake dust and pagids have been very good from cold but very dusty, but these have been on bog standard run arounds, I thought I'd try something upgraded this time but confusing which ones to go for😕

ive read up on them pads alot of people are recommending them but for me nearly 600 quid its not worth it, 95% i do m/way and local driving, 5% is giving my car a good blast over the moors this is where I get brake fade, thats the exact information i was looking for thanks for your help

Hi, I need some advice on brakes please I know the fronts are 312mm but what are the pads size, I'm getting 2 options on ecp and local motor factors, same with rears The rear I think are 272mm, current pads are Bosch 1k0615415r, can someone confirm please Also can anyone recommend me some front and rear brake disc and pads, budget is around 300 give or take, Current brakes had excellent bite but faded after 2-3 minutes of fast road use, last few weeks slowly that bite started to disappeared and have to press harder to stop, I can see the pads have little meat left front and rear, I need something that don't fade aswel, Thanks all

canbus gateway module

dont know if this helps you, i had similar issue with mine, sometimes it read codes but couldn't with abs, most of the time no comms at all, all warning lights on, even while driving, once switched off couldn't get it to start, new bat, new fuse box, ecu and cluster checked, after alot of faffin about turned out to be water getting into canbus, (rainy days) cleaned it and problem sorted, ive put new canbus since and never had problem again.

have you taken off the drop links from arb or shock this will give you more movement then use big flat screwdriver to wiggle bush and bracket off

it was taking a second or two longer to get past 2.5k did a dpf regen made a big difference, however its still not 100% it felt like its choking but its kind of free now i think you're right about a hose as i can hear a vey faint hiss sound when on hard acceleration, ive also got a p2015 code, ive ordered a new inlet mani just waiting for that then going to do smoke/pressure test when i fit new manifold also doing egr clean at same time i hope its not turbo another expense i dont need

ive got th ambusden+ only thing letting it down is the maps, been looking for a while for a HU, did you use the stock speakers? how is the sound quality? standard fit? are the the steering buttons working? link please, thank you😄

No obvious way as different brands may vary in size, If the Allen fits snug (no movement) hold it tight then just go for it,

Where the nut is, you should be able to put Allen key or torx, If not then you should be able to put a spanner near the joint where the rubber boot ends and then undo nut

If you're doing it yourself it's very easy to do, Watch this if you take to an independent garage labour should cost no more than 20 quid per side, The ones you have linked are correct but I doubt they'll last very long, if you can pay a few quid more get TRW or lemforder,

thats the drop links connected from shocker to anti roll bar, not expensive

yeah its all the time, it seems the low down power has disappeared, it started about 2-3 weeks ago, i had to fill up from tesco and since then its gone sluggish, ive filled up from back to shell 2 full tanks but it made no difference. just literally got the car serviced thats made no difference, it feels like somethings blocked so im gonna try dpf regen with vcds, you can get maf problems but thats very rare, have you unplugging your maf did that make a difference? what code reader are you using?

ive got a similar issue with power loss feels slow like theres no kick, still nippy but taking its time to get there, even my kids are complaining its slow, got service booked tomorrow hoping its that, sorry i was no help keeping an eye on this thread

sorry was in rush had to put trim back together quickly, ive took a few photos whether they're any help or not... from the info i could find 1, 2 and 3 could be where "can bus gateway j533" is located, some have a red plug others pink or blue mine was in position 3 behind relays with blue plug, position 1 is far left flat, mine had the bracket fitted for can bus but obviously it wasn't there position 2 is behind steering column some vag cars can bus can be located pass footwell, behind glove box/in scuttle or anywhere random apologies if info is incorrect any questions i'll gladly help cheers

ive had hose pipe on windscreen, scuttle and door, i put tissue on top of module, tissue didn't get wet and i couldnt see no drips so think going to go to a car wash and get jet wash on it or check on a rainy day, however the fuse box on side of dash had water marks and white residue so i think maybe the door seal might be dodgy mine was mounted above pedals behind the relays above the onboard supply control unit at the back standing up, im guessing the water was running down the cable/plug into the gateway, ive not put the trims back together yet as ive been doing testing, ill take some pics tomorrow during day,

yes i'm on it right now cheers 😃

just thought i'd update this thread after so much messing around and going through this forum day and night reading random stuff, it turned out to be the can bus gateway it was wet cleaned it up, sealed it connected back up and boom fired instantly im looking for a new one now so this was defo the problem thanks

Sorry charge light? When I check battery it 12.6 volts when I crank it the voltage drops to 10.8 then goes back to 12.6 because I've tried a few times bat showing 12.2 now I've left it now don't want to kill new battery There's a video above of what it does Thanks

I think that's a possibility it may be one or both or something else but I do think it's something to do with heavy rain causing my problem, Is there any ECU, modules or relays that could get wet? Can a wheel bearing issue cause this? This time cars not stating at all just for 1 second and cuts out, turn ignition on and just all warning lights are on and beeping, this time windows and indicators not working and TC or tyre monitor (sorry can't remember which one) light flashes, central locking and other lights work, This happened while driving all dash lights went out, warning lights came on, but this time I kept driving till I got home (10 min) once I switched car off it wouldn't start, I've checked all fuses with tester and they were fine, When I clear the codes only p0513 clears then comes back when trying to start, Battery voltage is fine Anything else I can check? I don't want to be spending money unnecessarily. Sorry for long post, Cheers

sorry to bother you guys again, problem came back today, it was raining heavy and i defo think somethings got wet and causing a short, managed to get error codes p0513 - immobilizer incorrect code p0610 - engine control unit incorrect coding i think these bottom ones are just coming up because car not starting u0212 u0146 u0164 p0672 p0673 both keys were tried, all lights on dash, car not starting please help thanks

just an update cars been fine last few days, i dont know what it was, maybe the battery or may of been something else, starts on the button now thanks for your input guys 😊

update after messing around yesterday it seems to be not recognising the key straight away, i have to leave key in ignition for a few minutes then it fires up, (red steering wheel light it wont start, when it turns amber then it starts) after it starts up its fine can switch on and off with no problems but when left off for 20 minutes or so it does it again, however ive just tried this morning it recognised/started straight away, any suggestions?

thought i'd try jumping it again left it for 10 minutes it started again, left it running for few minutes, then switched off on few times, took it for a quick spin all the lights have gone off except airbag light, only error code is p2015, still not sure if its sorted gonna take for a long drive and i'll report back, thanks