Former

Thanks for reporting your experience and advice to this thread. AFAIK with my wife's 2015 Fabia anyway, you don't need to always resynchronise the remote keyfob for it to work (I've not looked at the red light at the time) but I resynchronise anyway just in case the car's computers should get a future brain-fart and as it's a quick easy, clean-hands job. There's no dictate from VWŠkoda to turn the ignition on but as you've put you'll want to turn the car alarm off - and I thought the car alarm always went off when doing this but I've since discovered from anther and for myself (once) that the alarm doesn't always sound, I've no idea why, such is computers and programming. I'm not sure it's necessary to leave the ignition on but it won't do any harm and what's another minute or so on such a quick clean-hands job, never rush computers as they are very dumb, "smart" is at total misnomer for computer devices.

Unfortunately I've had a lot of experiences of low and very low quality work from those in the motor trade and even con-men who otherwise have a (undeserved) high good reputation in their speciality, not once but twice, and they keep their good reputation despite some of us knowing better. So I think you are right not to trust the paperwork given your experience with your bloke. Even at 2002 I'm almost (not certain) that an appropriate scan tool should given you details from the ecu fitted now about it. (I thought I had an example photo from a scan of my wife's car but can't find it). Good thing is there are lots of Golf enthusiast so information about the car should be available and some posts on who to avoid with them. I've used to cars 20-50+ years old and until two years ago as running them as dailies and for work, commutes 300 and 500 miles a week at one point) for holiday in UK and Europe and for (multi-marque) clubs events and my advice (from costly experience) is in the first year run the car whilst also giving the whole car the equivalent of a staggered 36 or in your case 60/80k-mile, service or check. Obviously priority is given to brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), lights and safety electrics (includes battery of course, on to windows and mirrors (include reflective number plates) for seen and be seen, then at the end the less important engine, gearbox drive axle. Don't spend anything on cosmetics or 'improvements' (which aren't always as you know) until at least 12 months round use of the car (through all seasons of the whole year as I know in Scotland you can get the four seasons in one day) and only upgrade parts/components if it's part of service/repair work. If this is your first 20 year old car, or for a very long time, then I can perhaps give you some general tips if you need/want them. Cheers.

You may already do so but the best tuning is full and proper timely servicing and maintenance of the whole car, especially with a diesel, regular engine air filter changes, regular engine oil and filter changes, using better quality oil than VW suggest, perhaps cleaning of sensors, and certainly for a weekend diesel the use of "cleaner" diesel fuel (Shell V-power is the only one I know of, and have good experience of). The German marques including VW have had complex computer programming for decades (and yours is before the cheating, well you'd hope so) so to mess with their programming needs people who really know what they're doing or the results might not be to short, medium or long term benefit. Your VW being just about last century must be at the very end of decent 'German engineering quality' as you'll probably know from your later built VWŠkoda Karoq and any other later VAG or German marque cars you might have owned. See how the replacement ecu goes, al the best.

They've probably buggered something on the gearbox or more likely the removal or reinstallation of the gearbox and it looks like (of course I could be wrong) instead of full and proper inspection and full and proper diagnosis they might have (of course I could be wrong) just fired the parts-cannon at it. It needs proper full scanning and errors that show up investigating and integrating to see what's related, live data diagnosed, visual and physical checks of the gearbox and area and any other items and areas also that might be involved or nearby the work. All very obvious stuff but it needs doing rather than avoiding or neglecting. If the car has been back three times and two sets of parts fitted that haven't solved the problem then it might be time for your soon to "escalate" the matter and get VWŠkoda involved at a higher level of technical and management.

That's why I do very occasional recharges with an appropriate battery charger when required to 100% charge as my wife's car does regular very short journeys.

This is the problem when relying solely on a scan tool report for diagnosis, it says "nothing wrong" when you know there is something wrong. other diagnosis tools are required including training, experience and knowledge by those doing the diagnosis and a good store of 'can-be-arsed' and common sense (often not that common). Does the scan tool not give details of the ecu to give a clue to if it has been changed. Good luck with the current path, let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. Steel wheels will rust but how soon and fast depends on how well made and finished they are, of course like all painted steel if you want to you can maintain them by proper preparation and painting. Stands to reason that less expensive wheels may not be made and finished using the best materials but still might be serviceable if looked after, you would have to ask the manufacturer what the quality of the silver wheels is to justify the price. Decades back all cars were on steel wheels and they were fine, commercial vehicles have steel wheels and they are fine, alloys wheels became the must have fashion along with oversized wheels and tyres even on shopping trolly cars, sometimes (often?) because of the size and weight of the tyre combination the alloy wheels were heavier than the steel wheels negating their original purpose. Check the offset range of the wheels is suitable for use on your car. I would be surprised if the stupid wheel bolts (instead of studs and nuts) didn't fit the steel wheels but do check with whoever you buy the wheels from. If you have TMPS sensors in the tyre valves AFAIK they can be transfer but might need setting up, I don't know as I've never had them and looked into this. On my wife's 2015 Fabia it's the other system. Bear in mind the comfort it's just about the size of the wheel and tyre it's also about which tyre you select. If you've not already seen there's a 'Tyres & Wheels' forum on Briskoda and I recommend for those stupid wheel bolts (instead of studs and nuts) and putting wheels back on to save possible back pains and ease the job you buy a set of two "alignment" tools (four if rotating wheels) as just one example of good ones. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232330617636

Well done on the 'coding' and sorting the issue. Possibly if you had driven the car more the computer might have realised you have a better state of charge in the battery but as you have the facility to 'code' it you might as well do that at battery change or as soon as possible after.

Example below is from an OBDEleven, the make of battery is unimportant, the Ah wants to be correct as does the type (VW call AGM "fleece" so check your Carista for this setting if not then AGM), serial number is unimportant, generally from factory it's (ten ones) 1111111111 you can just change the last digit to two (1111111112), this change is important to let the computer know it's a change of battery. Do not drive around with the Carista plugged in all the time only plug it in when required if either the Carista or VW's computers or programs have a brain-fart the excrement might hit the fan, plus it's another unnecessary battery / alternator load.

I've just watched the latest video and it's a similar issue to yours and shows how the diagnostics should be done and checked and cross-referenced, then the repair checked and cross-referenced to see it has resolved the issue(s), perhaps KwikFit could have a look as part of their further training. -

Rather than, or alternative, to silicone spray, - GT85. Very good for many other uses too better than WD-40 Multi-Use spray. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Makes sense if there's a restriction to the opening then it could well affect the operation in the other direction. It's the progress of making things as cheap as possible, for car manufacturers the part may only have to last as any warranty / guarantee of the car, for the parts manufacturer the part only has to last as long as their warranty, if they have to replace the part under warranty often it's no issue as they are made so cheap they can allow for many returns, no problem. For the installer it's a different matter for the sake of a £10 part it could involve a lot of time and effort. Might be my rose tinted glasses but things like (metal) pressure rad caps and thermostats would last many years into decade(s). but proportionately would have cost more to buy. The throw-away society.

So outside the parameter of manufacturing tolerance they (at some time) stated on their website. Did you test the previous "febi" / MotoRad that might have started to open at 87 or 86.

What equipment and what was he looking at, a scan tool mat not throw up an error code when something is obviously wrong to an average car driver user, you need to look look at live data and get other diagnostic equipment out, like multimeters, connectors, a bulb perhaps, and eyes, ears, touch, smell, use training, knowledge, experience, use thinking and common sense. Have a look at the chap in the videos I linked to, he doesn't just rely on a scan tool - but there again he's not a KwikFit "area Master Tech", what a let down. Perhaps a letter to KwikFit suggesting if they are unable to sort and complete the work you paid for perhaps they could get in an outside source who can or you do at their expense. 15 minutes is nothing to sort out balls-ups.

What is the stated (nominal) (opening) temperature of the "febi! / MotoRad stat?

1.3 = 340 mm at 2.37 kg 1.6 = 362 mm at 3.52 Kg The 1.6 spring is only 22 mm longer yet weights another 1.15 kg, the 1.6 spring must be heavier duty or different material than the 1.3 or the figures are wrong.

We run my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI 90 hatch at 30 psi, with a few different tyres all have been fine, we tried 35 and certainly noticed the difference in rolling resistance when rolling along the road but my wife preferred the car's handling (such as it is) at 30 psi and not 35 psi and it's her car that she drives so 30 it is. Two of my neighbours cars that I drive are also 30 psi setting (makes it easy for me as I check the tyres) and they are also fine at that setting.

Microswitch repair kit sort of issue. See this pdf - 2060686.3 - Fault Workshop! Leave vehicle only in position P.pdf

Bear in mind what you do to the front can affect the rear, front and rear need to balance and compliment each other to keep the car's balance on the road.

Unless you are loading the car up so need more pressure in the rear yures, try running the tyres at the 'eco' setting for a while and see how you get on with it. It's easier enough to let some air out if you don't get along with the 'eco' setting, you might notice some mpg difference on the long drive. Have a read of your car's Owner's Manual as it will be full of info that could save you time, money and hassle (whether this info is in it or not). Free VWŠkoda pdf downloads from their site if you don't have the very handy paper printed version. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I've never noticed the "1 bar = 100 kPa" on that label until I posted the photo in that post, how long I remember that is another matter. Good luck.

Which part, missing part or part marked 600 915 345 C 2? Dealership parts department (not always expensive) or breakers yard / recyling centre. You might be better looking at and/or asking on the following forums - Skoda Fabia Mk I or Mk2 forum depending on your 2007 - Škoda Fabia - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-škoda-fabia/ Parts For Sale - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/165-parts-for-sale/ Breaking cars - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/334-breaking-cars/ HTH.

I never trust tyre pressures set by garages, tyre places or gauges at petrol stations, on manual or electric pumps. Yes I have found garages and tyre places inflate to wrong pressures. Goggle shows 210 Kpa is 30.5 psi (rounded) so say 30psi (2.1 bar) and 245 is 35 psi (2.45 bar) so the 'eco' setting, so they've set to 'eco' setting, higher pressure giving less rolling resistance for more mpg, it does make a noticeable difference to the car rolling along the road (and perhaps handling depending on your tyres and style of driving). ETA: I always work in psi as I'm old and 30 (psi) or 35 is a lot easier to remember.

ETA. before putting the very awkward shaped air filter box back on the ball pins you could try cleaning the rubber grommet things on the air box and put something like GT85, or silicone spray or small amount suitable grease and see if that eases reinstallation and hopefully taking the box off next time you need to. - https://gt85.co.uk/ I put the very awkward shaped air filter box on my small bench worktop to remove the hidden screws and it slipped off and scratched the plastic so place a wide and thick enough cloth/rag under the air box to stop it slipping or getting scratched, learn by my mistake. PS I wouldn't take that front hose that has the rectangle air intake off at that end if you can avoid it as it's a loose flimsy fit as it is.

To me the air filter box is a right PITA farting about job and as with much VW and German engineering made more complex than needed. Once you've taken all of the hoses off include the small one the air filter box just pulls up, you might need to lift one ball off at a time to wiggle the box up. Bear in might there's a long drip tube at the front near the radiator when lifting out, then you need to turn the box over to take the hidden screws out and carefully prise the box open to get at the filter. The filter needs to be installed and sealed correctly, I've no idea with the Tosch engine air filter but you get instructions with the Mann. - https://mann-hummel.com/content/dam/mann-filter/pim-assets/product-information/MFPI102_en_Installation_C_27_009.pdf See this video. -

@rum4mo if you want to flush "stuff" out and penetrate, release and lubricate the red can with the red straw is good for this. if required at a later point a heavier lubricant can be use but GT85 is quite long lasting. I wondered if my neighbour's GM might have a T27 as despite his wide range of tools in his home garage neither of us could find a fit, neither of us have good eyesight and of course cars always have black fixings against black bits of plastic, in dark, dirty (it was a diesel) engine bays. I went to another neighbour to try his cheap set of various security bits. It turned out to be a 5-sided security (raised pin bit in centre) Torx, I didn't even know such things existed at the time. I've found US. Pro / Bergen tools fine for DIY occasional use so bought a set for this one job and have never used them since. I've bought a few tools or tools sets and had the same happen, I often just give them away as I don't like to have stuff that just sits around doing nothing, that's too much competition for me.