Former

@killie77 FYI, as I had to drive the Fabia today (still can't think what I done wrong to deserve this). 🫠 Same journey as 10c in winter turning early spring (and most weeks of the year twice a week) as below. Today, car hadn't been driven in the previous 24 hours. Car sits outside on the hard (luck) standing 24/7, 365/6 days a year. Last 2 hours at least it had solar gain (sun was out). After driving about 2 miles I decided to look at oil temp, at the time the car showed outside temperature as 20c which would be about correct, oil temp at this point 52c. Same journey and route as previously, only a couple extra very brief stops at roadworks sets of traffic lights and having the start/stop active at the extra stops. . At about 8 miles (where previously at about 93-5c) it was 87c, getting to 90c at about 9 miles, and only getting to 92c at, and just before journey's end, about 10 miles. So only really just getting the oil warm enough for a very short while before the journey is over. Unexpected figures given what I put at the start of this thread but there's no telling how the computers will behave at any given time and perhaps I was going faster and/or accelerating faster on the other same journeys I noted the oil temp, but none were done accelerating hard or fast, no overtaking just keeping with traffic and all within speed limits and below. Same oil as last service (Sept '23) no changes to car, load or driving.

You totally misunderstand. Limits do NOT always mean the very upper limits possible, the very maximum available before the engine, gearbox or driver explodes. The limit might be at 1 mph, 5, 10, 15 20, etc., low revs, not the maximum before the engine explodes, the car's handling on the road not the knife edge just before, or after, you slide, spin or fall into the scenery. It's about being able, when appropriate, driving WITHIIN the limits, and not beyond those limits, of the road, the vehicle and driver at the moment and very near future, WITHIN the limits, and not beyond, of the conditions at the time NOT the very maximum at optimum circumstances that may be available at optimum times. It doesn't have to be with a track instructor or good race driver, those were just examples of those that know how to drive smoothly to get to the available limits and not go beyond them which might be at 1 mph, 5, 10, 15 20, etc, and very low revs, with restricted movement of the vehicle on the road. NOT racing other drivers on a public road. If everyone every male in Greece has the attitude and thinking pattern of yourself and Thefeliciahacker then I very much doubt you have anything like Advanced Drivers club(s) in Greece. 😆 These are NOT about racing but more advanced road craft on public roads in the real world not closed tracks for those with excesses in money and/or egos. Just to be clear, I am not a member of such a club or passed any assessment to be in one or instruct others. As I have put before I am NOT a good driver. I may be above average (or fooling myself that I might be) but that would only be because the average might be so low. I am not throwing the first stone as I have lived in glass houses but if nothing else old age has given me some experience that I have learnt from, when I remember. 🫠

You put you were going somewhere else on holiday in the mountains, I wasn't thinking of you doing anything at the roadside on a busy road, as I put I would not fart about doing any work on a car in such circumstances so would not you suggest anyone else should. Just to make it clear again, I would not fart about doing any work doing anything at the roadside on a busy road, if you choose or think you have to that is your concern.

Sorry I didn't mean for you to take things so literally, I should have put if you had track instructor or good racer in your car you would see he or she would go quicker within the limits of the vehicle just by their knowledge, experience and practice - not that you need to go to the lengths you say. If you adopted the same smooth driving techniques which can also be picked up by others that are NOT track instructors or good racers. I don't know Greece, do you not have any advanced (road) driving clubs or is it you take a test(?) then once passed you know everything needed to drive how you like on the public roads no need to ever learn more (there are plenty like that in the UK (mostly men)). Track instructors and good racers do not only live their lives at tracks they are allowed off track. Learning on a track is good for a start but track stuff isn't the same, on the roads vehicles also travel in the other directions and there is a vast range of different vehicles with a very wide range of driving skills, these are a LOT more limited parameters on a track. Many years ago there was a report that rally drivers made the same amount of insurance claims for their road driving insurance as the ordinary Joe, possibly they took more chances or they drive a lot and others were hitting the rally drivers' cars because of this, probably younger male rally drivers.

So what - it takes as long as it takes, you are not paying for your own labour (with money at least) and hopefully if you do a good thorough job and keep proper maintenance of the system you will only do it once. At the same time you can clean, lubricate and replace other associated parts at the same time. As I live in England where you can sometimes get four seasons in a day I wait for three consultative sunny dry days to a full whole system thorough clean that will involve water and being outside, this also (hopefully) allows for any unexpected that might turn up and for anytime(s) I can't be arsed to faff around with a car. If I get the job done in a morning/afternoon/day or less than three days, which I should, then great. I never worry about how quickly anyone else can do this work, or any other car work, particularly paid professionals that wouldn't do such a thorough job and possibly not even a good job, possibly breaking something else and not telling you about it, and I don't work to the highest standards on a car they're not important enough.

A bit contradictory to having a quickshift then, or perhaps increases the need. Old 8v engine, use the torque and/or momentum and just use normal lever and gear changing, drive within the limits of the vehicle, anticipate and drive smoothly and a good rate of progress can be maintained. Get a track instructor or good racer in your car and he or she would go quicker within the limits of the vehicle just by their knowledge, experience and practice and often they can be short in height so their sightlines are less.

That's well put, the point I've have meant but failed to put, it's not just downshifts, it's the changes. Just as an example only, my modified Ford Type 9 gear lever against a standard type one, with the rally sport type clutch hydraulics and the modified shorter lever it made no difference to how quickly I was actually able to change gear successfully (that was not the intention of the shortening, straightening and retaining of the insulator). ETA: also shown is the red hardened saddle clip that made changes slicker that the standard black plastic Ford offering that would wear quickly and give a certain amount of sloppiness that wasn't of issue in a worn gearbox in a very old family saloon rarely used "classic" but more noticeable in a light two-seater actually driven.

Seems suited to your wants and needs. The following video was on my YT Homepage and is just a good example, it obviously isn't specific to a Felicia but as I commented, to me, is a very good video, well explained and presented and covers checks and further checks many forget or forget to include in a video. Yes it does include that kit but other stuff can be used and it's the principles that matter rather specifics. -

That would be the assumption but it is not stated as with the "non Pro" ratio and I put the post for a reason that may or may not have escaped your linear engineering thinking, there's more to navigating interactions with people than the very straight forward engineering way which hopefully you will learn when you're interactive with more people and you experience more of life. Now prove your assumption, as you would have to in class and work. 😁 ETA: if you want to of course, you are young so I mustn't, can't and wouldn't force you to, in a work situation it would be an entirely different matter, reactions and obligations different, a lot of fun might be had or taken at your expense. 😉 😄 But this is just the internet. 😆

Yes that's how I see or as I "Pro" for owners who has a few or fleet of vehicles, ordinary families can have a small fleet of vehicles. But then look at the quantities again, "Pro" does 50 litres of coolant with 1 litre, yet "non-Pro" does 10 litres of coolant with 330 ml, unless I am missing something the figures don't add up unless there is a mistake or missing information. Just like VW and their numbers nothing is straight forward.

Liqui Moly isn't as popular over here. One is for more regular, greater use by someone like a professional or someone with a collection of vehicles, as lots of owners may have. I think, don't know as I've not looked, they are both the same just packaged differently, have a look at the marketing sheets. contact the manufacturer., see below for what might need explanation. "Pro" 1 l is sufficient for up to 50 l of coolant "not pro" 300 ml is sufficient for 10 l of coolant (dosage 1:33). compatible with all conventional coolant additives and antifreezes (with the exception of “low conductivity” coolants)

Yes true, so see answer one. If something has only happened once in 24 years because you were distracted you have hopefully learnt your lesson and won't do it again and as it won't happen you don't need any gadgets to prevent it, biggest driver aid is always between your ears, or as we say here "the nut behind the wheel". Benny Hills style now is out of date as lot of it relied on the British tradition of double entendre (irony there with the name to British tradition) and what is now considered un-pc stuff but those were the times and just about all others did the same, I'm sure Benny Hill was clever enough to adapt his style if required, from the very little I know of him he was a bit of an English eccentric, the women that appeared on screen with him regularly seem to hold him in high regard.

Hi, welcome. @Breezy_Pete would probably be able to help you, he may be along from this contact. Good luck.

I'd put a bet on with myself you'd be interested in the Liqui Moly, German company for German car. I have no idea about the differences (if any) in the two products as I can barely read English let alone German, it may just be just different packaging for different markets but you would have to check with the manufacturer or get the marketing or safety data sheets for each, sometimes suppliers provide them as downloads, and see if or what the difference is. Whichever product you chose follow the manufacturer's instructions unless you contact them and they say you can do differently - you know you can get unwanted results messing with and mixing chemicals.

Often funny but often, not always, very basic, his songs were very good and very clever, he had a Number One hit in the singles chart in the 1970s, Ernie (the fast milkman in the west).

Yes the driver. 😊 Or for those who concentrate more on beating other drivers on the road or race use perhaps - ETA: NOTE - "Not for use with Capacitive Discharge, Multispark systems, Magneto or Flywheel ignition." Lumenition Rev Limiter ERL-V (from around £145 in UK excluding P&P). - Instructions - ERL-V_instructions.pdf

That would require an attitude sadly missing from many that work in the motor trade dealing with the general public. On the other side so many customers only want the cheapest job done, the minimum required not what is better or even better still and perhaps preventative.

There's this place on the site too - Wheels & Tyres For Sale - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/ If you have photos why not just post them, see other adverts in other forum (just seen you put up a photo previously). Good luck,

Those are not the manufacturer's instructions with any I listed. ETA: that I know of as I have only used a couple them, I doubt the others are much different but I have not checked.

No it is not, it is easy decision - don't bother. Stick with the following video it's top quality British humour from the brilliant Chris Morris and Steve Coogan, just one of their brilliant shows.- Day Today — Pool Attendant - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8YfgxF3APY An explanation which you may not follow as it's all British type humour. Chris Morris's radio and TV shows "Jam" are cult status, even in the USA!!!! (but probably not suited to RC Europe) - https://www.comedy.co.uk/tv/the_day_today/quotes/

I expect you could adapt an adapter to fit. Covered also in Wynn's Radiator Flush (and probably others) instructions - "Add to the cooling system via the expansion tank if part of the system circuit (2 hoses: out and return), or directly into the radiator if a single hose overflow tank is fitted." - https://wynns2021.wpengine.com/products/TDS/W56064_TDS_EN.pdf

Do it there and do it thoroughly. These are my notes for the Midget but you can adapt them for your use and car. Procedure: a) clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner or Holts Speedflush b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator, start with engine block drain plug hole c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a really good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [these can be very difficult to fully drain and get all the bits out of, keep turning and shaking to alternately get the residue from the inlet and outlet] flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine. Flushing and reverse-flushing: I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid. You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage. If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay). For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car. For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals. On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it. I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate. For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment. After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill. Different products have different instructions of use. Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/ STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/ Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804 Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/ OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

Don't bother using that just the camera flash as see how well that is.

On the whole it's good news so far ,just keep monitoring the situation to see if this is just more muck surfacing from a previous issue or an ongoing issue that may or may not be of anything to worry about, you could have bits coming out for years and changes of coolant without any issue from the previous issue (that's why you want to get as much out as soon as possible to save this). There's no such thing as a "smart" phone, that's what we call an oxymoron (like Mars Petcare), the things often aren't much cop as phones and the camera screen can't be viewed in daylight or sun. Try taking the photo at night using the flash and camera as close or zoomed in as possible, the dark colour of the coolant against the very light plastic causes contrast issues.

You are making assumptions based on that video, there are zero reasons why a quick shift for a car like yours needs to be stiff, if it is then don't buy it. If you foul up a gear change that is your fault, possible with any gear lever you adjust the way you handle the gear lever as required, the shorter leverage means you need less force to move it(unless resistance has been increased) and as it's moving a shorter distance the change will be faster if you, the gearbox or clutch can't cope with this then there's no point having the quickshift. Do not chase other vehicles on public roads - that how serious accidents can happen, you carry on doing that too much and your mate's prophecy may come true. You've got an ECU and mapping, put the rev limiter at a lower setting if you can't train yourself, if you were concentrating on your driving instead of chasing you'd soon know your mistake and be able to reduce the effects of that mistake. Unless you want or need to save space don't bother with a quickshift or shorter gear lever as it's very doubtful it would do much with your standard gearbox that's 24 years use and abuse - but no doubt you will want to discover this for yourself. You would not like a Felicia set up for faster fast road use, you would moan about the noise, vibration and additional speed up wear on components and parts.