Former

Good point, I will admit I totally forgot about such.. Newer models have codes but not needed as the radio returns and Mike being old school and long term owner may have the code written in a safe place, or if even older school not have or use a radio, on the other side he might have updated the radio, still might need a code for it, or might not. I've no idea about Mike's radio but some, later ones perhaps and original to car, you can get the codes for off the internet for a nominal fee, certainly not £40. But still a good point I'd totally forgot about as it doesn't apply to later models which I didn't know until someone on here told me, thanks.

It may be accurate enough but it means very little, the driver, sneezes, burps, farts, fidgets and the figure could instantly vastly increase or decrease. If you want to see a steadier figure then you need to set the nanny cruise or automatic cruise for the car's computer programs to take over the accelerator pedal from you. If you're just after higher mpg figures there are loads of things you can do from the mundane to the ridiculous. For acceleration from standing start through gears for best mpg accelerate briskly (not to soft not too hard) through the gears, don't have the revs too high or too low (that could mean ignoring when the computer suggests to change, it's pretty thick and doesn't know much you should know more. Don't be in a gear that is too high for the existing circumstances or very near future circumstances (read the road ahead). For better driving and better mpg there's something that most men won't consider and it's a car tuning aid that can easily be transferred from one car to another and back again - it's further driver training, a good way to accelerate driver learning and to some extent experience. A bit like reading the car's Owner's Manual (and all other instructions) it is not against any law other than in the minds of macho fools. 😁

Don't worry the residue distilled water (and whatever) left in from the last fill will reduce the percentage. Where does the 18 years come from?

I'm (almost) sure this topic has come up (on this forum?) before but I can't remember the outcome or solution (was it you?). What I'd try is remove the batteries from both fobs, then replace the battery on one fob only and synchronise that one fob. Details in your car's Owner's Manual Then place this first fob well away from the car and the other fob, put it in a metal tin or whatever to fully isolate if from the other fob. Put the battery back in the other fob and synchronise it to the car. I find it best to alternate (in whatever time period or way suits) the use of the two fobs so there is even wear on them and then you always know where the second/"spare" fob is and that it at least worked the last time you used it and that wasn't year(s) ago. With these silly KESSY fob things best to keep the one not in use fully isolated from the car and other fob. I would also see about getting a full scan report for any errors that might be on it, and then delete any errors, this of course needs to be done with an appropriate, and appropriate level, scan tool. The scan tool does need to be fully up to date with the programs for your car, many scan tool owners are too lazy or haven't paid for the service and again the scan tool has to cover what you need. If you don't have access to such a tool then you could see if there's a Briskoda member that has what you need and able to help, perhaps for a few beer tokens, do check, some are pro services. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

And where are these "VW" sensors actually made, do we know, are they specified for G12 and if so what about when G13 was the latest spec, as I put before if they want to keep up with the latest dictates then it's now G12evo. There is only one absolute in life, well two but (some/all?) Greeks don't seem to agree with the second. 😄

I'm going to disagree with "everybody says". 🙂 Me personally, take many of the German and VW dictates, number, specs, with a pinch of salt and certainly with a car practically from the last century (indeed millennium) with an engine and system that weren't cutting-edge at the time wouldn't worry about G11 or G12 I would jus use an appropriate antifreeze/coolant but as with many other matters it's a lot about beliefs rather than anything being particularly good or bad, other than mixing different types or even brands together. Cleaning (better thorough cleaning) and fresh appropriate coolant will help rather than leaving things as they were so it's all progress here, at the moment, for now at least. 🙃

People seem to forget how cold and wet it can be in other than winter. In my mind it was put in the past that tyres (weren't called "summer tyres" then) were starting to go off below +10c, that could be a summer's day in UK, certainly easily at night. I can't remember the rain statistics but outside of snow (which were generally don't get much of here) winter seemed dry to my memory.

I can't and don't dispute any of that, my only caution is that we've not actually been told it's an airbag issue or airbag light on at the moment but as the car is from 1998 (not 1999 as I put previously) with 25+ years use who knows how the electronics and any programming might behave so an appropriate scan tool maybe required regardless of whatever the issue but if one isn't immediately available I'd try the battery trick as there's nothing to lose and it's quick, easy, no-cost, clean-hands work which is the only work I'd like to do on any car. True, plugging in an appropriate scan tool is too but I no longer have access to one and as Mike doesn't I put up my list of ways of perhaps finding out and perhaps accessing one. Scan tools certainly go slower on cars of that time but faster only a number of years on and seem quick because they have so much less than on newer cars. It'll be interesting to hear the final outcome and if an appropriate scan tool is used how it got on.

That's a whole slab of additional info, that could be mechanical, electric, electronic or any permeation or combination, obviously it hasn't been repaired properly perhaps including any programming required @pab567 may well know and able to offer alternative.

Hi, welcome. I don't know but if the photo you put up is of your heater/aircon control then it looks a bit odd as one of the buttons not lit has it action displayed on the screen. To me if the buttons are not lit in might signify their actions are unavailable for perhaps reasons the mighty computer gods have but I don't know, there is something about humidity and fresh air, have looking and read of your Owner's Manual as that is a good way of saving time, hassle and money especially with unnecessary visits to Dealerships, mechanics and auto-electricians. Falling that if you can find any reset procedure for the heater/aircon, there is for older models but the computer gods' programs are even more complex now and the German marques including VW have always luved over-complex computer stuff. A starting point diagnostic tool (doesn't necessarily give the end point solution as many expect, it's another diagnostic tool to be interpreted) is a VW 2018 appropriate scan tool. The user needs to ensure the scan tool program is up to date for the 2018 VW model, many are too lazy to bother or haven't paid for the service and less capable scan tools can give erroneous readings and results. If the problem isn't from the system's normal operation and you don't have access to a good level VW appropriate scan tool then there is something I'd try as it's very low cost and very easy but others deride it and can't believe it'll make any difference so most don't try it and if it's not a computer brain-fart then it won't make any odds but I see no harm trying.

@Ootohere thanks. For this case I was only referring to the VW 5-speed manual gearbox, certainly the PED 02T fitted to my wife's 2015 Fabia, whilst it's quite small family saloon/hatch around town feel and operation it's fair enough for operation of particular vehicle and seems robust enough, unlike other bits that have fell apart or worn a lot quicker than on other manufacturers offerings. Always noticeable that the "cheaper" brands offer the longer warranties with the like of VW relying on British car snobbery and an out of date good reputation of their brand(s). Not to mention the UK belt rip-off and other stuff over the year. Heard something this morning about the Japanese manufacturers being further twisted to the UK and USA ways of the motor trade, I'll catch up with it later. ETA: I did note alep has the 2016 car mapped to 130ps hence the caution note.

Have you checked this is so, I don't know but wonder if disconnecting the battery might be enough and you would be best to do this with anything involving an airbag particularly on a 25 year old car (assuming the airbag would ever work, any reports or testing done by anyone). Very easy, scan tools with have something like "clear/delete all error codes". On a 1998 car having the battery disconnected (and removed from car for safety) and turning the headlights on with the battery disconnected then either bridge or touch the pos and neg battery terminal clamps together and perhaps holding them like that for a count of 10 would reset things ready for battery reinstallation. Any reasonable scan tool appropriate to a 1999 VW will be able to cover most things on the car not just OBDEleven and VCDS (or previous versions). As already put you do need the correct port connector (right plug to go into diagnostics socket) not everyone will have this but scan tools for different makes, models and years of cars will come with a selection of leads and plugs, but you still need the program for 1999 VW. Whoever has the scan tool must ensure it is up to date for VW 1998 - many people are too lazy to update the programs enough or have not paid for the service. A poorer quality scan tool may make promises it can't keep. You could see if there's a Briskoda member with an appropriate scan tool and fitting for a 1999 VW near you on the following list and they may know if you need a scan tool for this work and if so may be able to help you with this for beer money, see the link at bottom of this post. Or you could ask on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum, and/or on the 'General Maintenance' forum - or on the 'Ask a Tech' forum if you pay £6 to become a Freedomlite member for a year - all forums on this site. Diagnostics & VCDS - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ General Maintenance - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/103-general-maintenance/ FREEDOM Supporters Area (Ask a Tech) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/94-freedom-supporters-area/ Briskoda members list of VCDS owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 Or map if you prefer. - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=21.259901462991746%2C83.39240985000002&z=2 HTH.

Problems solved, well for now anyway. 🙃

Yes, that's how much faith they have in their product, with good reason on some of their parts quality but the standard 5-speed manual boxes seem fair enough for type of car, the oil change will marginally help in longer term use and maintenance but it's unlikely any real gearbox related issues particularly up to 100k-miles. Doing it yourself is just cost of oil and disposal, bit of cleaning consumables perhaps but paying labour charges takes you into diminishing returns for 100k-miles unless they are to be serve or gruelling use of car and gearbox (clutch). If you are new to the car I'd save the labour cost for other bits that might fail. Also bear in mind VW don't produce any oils they just have their label stuck on the bottle, if you can get the VW label soil at a reasonable cost then fair enough but you may find you can get better for perhaps even less. Their current numbered coolant (G12evo) also has "suitable as a filled-for-life filling" is miscible with G13 and G12++, your expansion tank probably has G13 on it but G12evo has superseded this in the German numbering system and use in vehicles, if I hadn't already changed it I think I'd leave it in for 10 years. A 100k-miles is nothing to modern vehicles, well for the engine and gearbox at least. Do bear in mind the Dealership will do a quick cold partial empty empty and refill, you would probably take more care and do a better job. Good luck whatever you decide or do.

Opportunity now to put in fresh gear oil of a higher quality than you did 5-6 years ago if you want. Why would you put the old oil back in if it's that old and the labour work expensive. Clean fresh oil is the way to go. You could also ask the mechanic to keep the old oil for you to see how good it looks and if there are any bits in it., whether the mechanic is able to follow this simple request and task is another matter, but then you have trusted him to do the work. Personally I would prefer a woman to work on the car as there is more likelihood that a woman would be able to do the work better and carry out your request without hassle, but they probably, very sensibly, prefer women as customers. I would think you would want everything as clean as possible when dealing with rubber bushings to prevent earlier wear on them anyway.

When was the last time you changed your gearbox oil?

You just did, and it didn't hurt. 😄 Fair enough, but this is, an English language, car website so you see boot, bonnet, wing, manual (gearbox) and other non-USA car related words all the time. As you may know there are a some words that Americans that mean something entirely different in UK English. For instance in the UK very many bathrooms do not have a toilet in them. 🙃

Boot, this is an English language site. Only joking, but we all in Europe not the US of A.

It can depend on which gauge in which car but generally until proven otherwise it is best to take a gauge as being just a gauge rather than an accurate. About 16/17 years ago my wife had a brand new car whereas my car, well some bits of it, were 34 years old at the time, and at least a few of the gauges on my car were more accurate than on her brand new car but my gauges were mechanical and could be calibrated, one was electrical though and was accurate. British engineering rather than German engineering quality. 😁 😄 .

Hi, welcome. Have you checked in the Owner's Manual, you appear to have "Infotainment Swing", look under SmartLink. Information, restrictions and instructions are there. You can view online from following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models You can check for some updates here too. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And any Recalls (that VW admit to) here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns The Owner's Manual is worth reading and referring to when required as this can save you a lot of time, money and hassle and visits to Dealers, mechanics and auto-electrician. Particularly worth reading with a 2021 car and newer is the section on "12v vehicle battery", I recommend ignoring the bit about checking the acid level indicator, if the battery has one, as this will give you false confidence that the battery isn't low in charge. The engine will start and lights seem bright enough and the battery still be too low for the car's computers and they will make you suffer for this mistake even before you see any battery low warnings (first sign is usually when start-stop is inoperative in conditions where it should normally be operative (see Owner's Manual for "START STOP", "Operating conditions"). Sometimes the battery may need the use of an appropriate 12v battery charger and maintainer to fully recharge it rather than just driving the car to extended the useful service and life of the battery and get it beyond the 4 or 5 (or less) years that many have then need to change and 'code' the expensive battery. I suggest preventative full recharges as it's very easy clean, handsfree remote work, can be done whilst doing anything that's better than farting about with cars. Do read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for battery charger maintainer. HTH. ETA: just noticed you put the photos up in landscape (and not portrait), thank you, which might suggest you are older and know about the importance of battery state of charge (and state of health) but doesn't hurt to be reminded particularly on the more modern cars with so many driver "aids" and comfort and "convenience" electrical items on the car to drain the battery.

Out of curiosity and for education which of those gearboxes was it that the VW engineers changed their minds on which oil should be used?

If you want to save a few pennies this is the equivalent to what I put in, Millers XF Premium MTF 75w (GL4). - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8374-XF-Premium-MTF-75w-5.pdf

I done my own on my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI, 5-speed (PED 02T) box, I used a Millers 75w80 (GL5) because it was a good oil at half price. Now I would use Millers EE Performance MTF 75w (GL4), this includes a load of VW number for those that need/want to follow VW dictates on oils. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8327-EE-Performance-MTF-75w-1.pdf Yes it easy for DIY (easier that other simple jobs on this car which can be unnecessarily more of a PITA thanks to the design and VW fantastic-plastics) if I can do it anyone can. How much you need depends on how thorough you are, a Dealership might be a quick cold drain and get away with 1 litre perhaps but I don't know, as DIY it's a bit over 1 litre so you need to buy 2 litres. I've no idea what a garage would charge probably a very high price for 2 litres of oil, waste disposal of old oil perhaps, and labour at an hourly rate., plus VAT on all (Just about all of the following was lifted from a previous post of mine on this subject.) I've not seen any horror stories about the 1.2 5-speed (PED 02T) box and some engineers and mechanics will tell you that it is a waste of time and money to change the transmission oil as it will last the life of the car, that is correct it is just a matter of if you believe that the oil, and the additive package with the oil, remain good enough throughout that whole time of the car. Personally, and there is evidence, I see/believe that that fresh oil will be better as it will be overall less worn (for want of a better word) but people, as with other matters, can have strong believe on this either way and debating oil beliefs is endless. If you change the oil you want to check first that you get the right oil and that you can get at and loosen the fill/level plug - you don't want to take the drain plug out and then find you cannot get the fill plug out. Best to get the transmission oil hot or warm (usual cautions here) and remove the fill plug to ease flow and volume and leave to drain for as long as practical to get as much of the old oil out so as much fresh new oil can go in. There will always be some residue of old oil left in you are just trying to reduce this amount of residue. I personally at the end of the drain pour some warmed (solar gain or oil bottle in hot water) fresh new oil into the transmission with the drain plug still out to act as a sort of little end flush/rinse and again let that fully drain for as long as practical. On this gearbox (PED 02T) the fill and drain plugs weren't at a big difference in their level on the box and the fill plug was a bit of play to get a tool at and undo, not difficult just a bit awkward as Sod's Law whatever I had available wasn't ideal length but could be done. IIRC(?) the plug fitting was something annoying like a H7 not in my tools so borrowed. When I had a look to see what tools I would need and check I could loosen the fill plug and remove it (cold box and oil) I took the fill plug out a little and had a fair run of oil which suggested to me that perhaps the box was overfilled when fitted/delivered to factory I don't know if that is the case or the case for all others but the car needs to be level front to back and side to side for refilling (unless you lift the car higher one side and overfill again). Filling for me was best done for with the help of my (reluctant) "glamorous assistant" holding a funnel with a length garden hose attached in the engine bay to slowly pour the fresh oil in for refill whilst I laid under the car making sure the other end of the hose remained at the edge of the filler hole and to shout stop when the oil overflowed out of the filler hole. Of course you could use other methods. As I couldn't turn the gears in the gearbox to check oil fill level again I put the fill plug back in and went for a quick short drive leaving the plastic cover off and breeze blocks in place. I had a mug of tea and done some better stuff than farting about with cars (that's a lot of other things for me) to make sure gearbox and oil are cold to check level, look for leaks before I put the plastic cover back on and tidy up, clean the tools and put them away. I always take a lot of time on these jobs, I never go at any pace other than slowly, I couldn't care less about any macho rubbish about how quick someone else can do the job (they usually exaggerate and don't allow for setting everything up, checking work and putting everything away anyway). I also allow time for teas and pees and getting distracted by doing more interesting stuff. I used to get neighbours ask what I was doing but they soon learnt that if I was working on our cars I was best left alone (yet I don't mind working on neighbours cars and stopping for a chat as I volunteer for those jobs). HTH.

@Thefeliciahacker you do tend to be too rigid in some of your thoughts and expressions, too much faith and emphasis on engineers, they do make mistakes and not know everything and in my experience as a total generality rarely admit they are wrong and don't know something. Not everything has to be designed and instructed by an engineer many things on cars have successfully been done on a car without them and advances made, possibly even by ignoring the given engineering wisdom of that time. Same with some legislation which may or may not be amended later. If you think the German engineers are always correct and the best then I think you might find you are mistaken at some point. You do give lots of good advice and you can always put what you think, your opinion, your knowledge and experience but you must accept that others have different and possibly lots more experience than you currently have. As I've put before I hope you modify and rein in what and how you put things to others when you are working with others that are not engineers, and to women, but you are young so probably won't accept this until you are older and picked up a few experiences from continuing with this, perhaps you won't as there are plenty of old men with similar attitudes.. I'm totally lost on a few items that you have put are wrong and even unsafe/dangerous but it doesn't matter as I'm not in GR, not that I can see how they apply anywhere, but again it doesn't really matter.

The German engineers of VW since (according to below) 2018 use G12evo, who would go against the German engineers, but then they keep changing their specification so it depends on when you last changed the coolant, G12eve is "lifetime" coolant too.