Former

Tony, I'm (almost) sure(?) there was something about this before, perhaps it wasn't in the Fabia Mk3 forum, when others see this thread they'll probably have chapter and verse on it. In the meantime if you want to clarify more. 5 or 6 speed manual? Where is reverse position with the gearstick in relation to reverse? Have you had the car from new? How long have you had this difficulty? How often does it happen? Does anyone else who drives the car report this issue? It depends on what and how you like to drive if DSG autos might be interesting to you, I've never driven one other than a smart at the turn of the century. If you've a 6 speed manual the gearing is so low you might as well have an auto box I think, save all the VW computer programs pestering whilst you're supposed to be driving but they want to tell you how to drive, like a nervous and interfering passenger, well to me anyway. 🙂 With the engine running you have moving parts so things could become more awkward. In the old days (when it was all fields around here) you'd check the box oil level and perhaps clutch operation or even gear lever rubber rubber grommet or anti-tizz springs cup but now there's so much more including all that's needed for the various computer programs. I'm very unusual here, and other places, but particularly here because I'm not a VW fan (Golf Mk1 GTi being the exception) and find in my very limited experience of VW engines they sound badger's bottom rough and the manual Fabia 2015 5-speed gearbox and 2023 6-speed gearboxes to be a clunky feel of shift, decidedly family car, I don't rush a gear change and make sure the clutch pedal is fully depressed and not pressed or lifted too quickly and foot fully off accelerator pedal. I have found reverse can take a little bit of rolling to get it on cog more than other cars I've driven but can't think of any issues getting 1st. Thanks for the comment on the Skoda 130 Coupe, unfortunately the photo is from 1986/7, before becoming a VW brand and the Skoda Dealerships were small friendly backstreet garages and not the Velcro name badge places of today.

Do bear in mind a scan report needs proper and further checking, interpretation and diagnosis, just because a sensor gives unacceptable readings it does not necessarily mean it is a fault with, or at, that sensor. The report has to be interpreted normally, just changing that part could be what we call "shooting the messenger" that is blaming the messenger for the news it gives you rather than dealing with the cause of the news given.

Wow !! I mean wow! Could you please suggest that to VWSkoda UK, the UK VWSkoda Dealerships, most garages and mechanics in the UK, please. Free !!????!! IIRC VWSkoda Dealership prices seem to go from £65 to £140 just to plug the machine in, perhaps they might give discount or exclude the cost if you have some expensive work done as a result of this (a Mercs specialist does at least) but I'm not sure VWSkoda Dealerships do. As I put before the prices you pay for parts and labour seem (much) lower than in UK.

A quick thought, if it's a manual gearbox, is that the cables from lever to box might need sorting, videos and info around. Also if the idle revs are too high perhaps, then of course there's clutch and other issues, operation of gear lever (particularly if not manual box), I doubt it's the gearbox itself (unless DSG/auto perhaps) but if you put which gearbox it is or look for problems on that gearbox if required. Does your model have anything like dual mass flywheel, dual clutch or other exotic stuff. Also do a search as there might be the other issues around this covered in previous threads for Fabia Mk3 but I can't remember the details. All being well someone else will be along with more relevant info and knows the models more but more information about your gearbox. clutch, transmission might be also useful to them. Good luck.

ETA: you can also update your wotsit/thingy to include the Fabia. Wotsit/thingy is this, (I've no idea what it's called).

Er, no idea about these computer terms (took me two goes at seeing wisiwig as I've not heard that term for decades) but what I think you want is separate sections of quotes (boxes). So, cursor over the start of what you want to quote, hold down left-click of mouse (or equivalent), whilst still holding down mouse-left-click highlight the wording you want to quote, this should bring up a pale green infill box with bold black border with the wording 'Quote selection', left- click with your cursor on this box and the quote goes to your new post box. You can drag the quote box through existing text (or empty lines put in with carriage return or equivalent). Thanks, I've not heard that term. As an English language I avoid Americanisms, they've already took over too much here. 🙂 I can barely read English let alone French so I have to look at the English language version of a 2018 Fabia Owner's Manual, below is from that publication, perhaps left-hand-drive models have the little red light on the passenger door instead(?) (or you've not consulted the Owner's Manual sufficiently). This is possibly a perfect example of me not asking the right or sufficient questions. You have more than the boot opening switch not working, this suggests perhaps the following, the area of wring within the conduit between the body of the car and the tailgate has broken wires (this information and photo was kindly provided by Joske82 in another thread where he discovered the issue and solution). - HTH. Good luck.

Free? Free?? Not free in the UK unless a Briskoda member offers and then does the program cover 1995 Felicia and have the Felicia adapter for the cable. You would know better than me but at a very quick look, your VCDS link has the VCDS with "has access to all control modules that require the KWP-2000 (2001 + Teves Mk. 60 ABS, numerous 2002 + modules), KWP6000 (CAN) and/or KWP7000 (UDS) protocols" does that cover 1995 Felicia (I have no idea). And has "Package contents: - VCDS Hex V2 diagnostic tool - PC connection cable (usb) - Installation CD" no mention of 1995 Felicia adapter. Second link show from 1996 unless I have missed something - is V2 compatible with 1995 Felicia? Third link, again I might be missing it but those scanners, at a very brief look, do not say VW so would only perhaps cover generic OBD2 stuff and not VW 1995 Felicia specific for more detailed specific reporting of modules/sensors. VW gets away with lots more chargeable stuff in the UK than Europe, we have always been a soft touch and expect lower standards and more and higher pricing on car items and services, you would wince at what we in the UK pay for parts and labour for the same cars you have.

Sorry, obviously I do not know what you know and do not, in the same way I have no idea what a bi-yearly RWT is (our MoT is annual after car is 3 years old). I might have misunderstood and you mean the door opening in addition to unlocking. You can test the opening using the hole and screwdriver then it's out with the multimeter to see if the switch is faulty or just connections dirty or broken, or broken wire(s). Any warning light on the drivers door flashing sequence? rum4mo - "One thing to always include in your "looking around" when faced with an electrical issue concerning a issue with the rear hatch, will be the area of wring within the conduit between the body and the rear hatch."

The door lock emergency open or close is also the operation to synchronise the remote, this example is on an earlier UK car but the principles still apply (so quick and easy to do, though I have no idea why the car alarm didn't go off but that is just another of the joys of computers and their programming that brings interest into our lives). - Skoda Fabia Mk3: Door Lock Emergency Open/Close (Broken Key Fob)

Skoda Fabia Mk3: Boot Won’t Open (Find Emergency Lever) - (loads of other useful videos on this YT channel too on (earlier) Fabia Mk3) -

With my wife's 2015 UK car the boot / luggage compartment (trunk is American) does not open if the metal keyblade is in the ignition cylinder lock. I always refer to the Owner's Manual before the internet and I would also follow the instructions in there to synchronise the remote as it's so easy and quick to do (other than the car alarm going off when you open the door so you need to get the keyblade into the ignition cylinder lock as quick a possible to turn the car alarm off. If you have a proximity key (KESSY) I don't know about those so much (can anyone tell me what advantage they give to abled-body people?). The other thing you could do is look at the mechanical parts of the rear door, catch and hook for obstructions, perhaps check the emergency opening from inside (see Owner's Manual) after that check wiring and connection to to rear door switch as on newer models I have seen they seem like they might fail. If required, from VWSkoda free downloadable pdf Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

I agree (but on time rather than mileage as that's more suitable for my wife's car's short journeys) and almost put about (wheel) tyre rotation but not everyone believes in it and VWSoda make the job not only a PITA but potentially a pain in the back and without the (often underinflated or flat) spare wheel more so hence my suggestion of 4 "alignment tools". ETA: I personally always remove the locking wheel bolt first and put (one of) the alignment tool(s) in that position and replace the locking wheel bolt last, same for torquing up. Four wheels, directional tyres. -

Sorry I meant to put the engine reporting on a scan tool might give information that might help find but (not necessarily identify cause(s) but often the usual basics of diagnostics will apply regardless, such as already mentioned - battery - or connections and cables on and to and from the battery including earths ignition - cables and connections, spark plugs (clean or replace as required), coil(s) air - in or out or escaping, clean and unrestricted engine air filter and air filter housing, hoses, or air leaks such as vacuum leaks petrol - petrol quality supplied and in car's fuel tank, clear and unrestricted tank, fuel filter and supply pipes/hoses, fuel pump, clean throttle body, injector(s), (carb?) electronics - sensors clean and fully operating, electric wires and connectors all clean (inside and outside) secure and protected mechanical - pedal, throttle connections and operation, cables and spring(s) engine - faults, running hot, head gasket failure, other. A full and proper service of the engine (and whole car) can often sort many issues in many instances (but not all obviously).

Hi Jack, welcome. You could also try your local VWSkoda Dealership, probably best to avoid excessively busy times, but politely asking should get you a "complete record" printed off on paper from their machines, best to take your V5C or a note of your VIN in to ensure they get the right car though perhaps the registration should be sufficient you always want to check and cross reference any information you get from any source (including the internet and manufacturers) with if possible two other (hopefully) reliable sources as all databases have errors and omissions. The "complete record" can only give you what has been recorded on it, which even if complete won't be too much and sometimes can be not a lot after initial delivery when new, so have a look at things like MoT history (freely available online) and any other sources. Full service history means a lot less in recent times to decades back as, VW servicing in particular, is little more than engine oil and filter change and a visual check for other chargeable work, there's also a "maintenance" schedule which older folk at least would consider part of servicing. A tip I give to all new, and current, owners of particularly later cars is to buy and use, in a preventative manner, an appropriate (12v) car battery charger maintainer if they want the battery to last a reasonable time of life and give good service and to avoid hassle and car issues on the car from the battery getting too low. Too low is before any warning messages and lights and well before the engine has any difficulty starting, the complex computer systems don't like low battery charge and can make you suffer in unexpected ways for your mistake. Just because the engine starts and the lights seem brighter enough doesn't mean the battery isn't in a low state of charge. Which leads me on to my second tip, read the Owner's Manual as soon as possible (before buying the car is best) and refer to it and you could save yourself time, hassle and money, despite what some think it's not illegal in any way for a man (particularly "tradesmen") to read instructions. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models VWSkoda "update portal" - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ VWSkoda "Recall Campaigns" (well the ones they admit to) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH. Good luck. Below an old servicing and maintenance schedule (so out-of-date pricing) to give you an idea of the (limited) work that might have been carried out by VWSkoda Dealership. Independent garages or owners can contribute to service data systems too.

It may be different in Chile and Greece but in UK you would be very lucky to find a Dealership/garage/mechanic that has a scan tool, VCDS or other, that has a program for a 1995 Felicia. A Ross-Tech (VCDS provider) 2007 chart shows 1995 (6U) Felicia needs a Felicia adapter to their cable. Generic scan tools can come with lots of different adapters and leads as pre OBD2 (1996 OBD2 made mandatory for all cars sold in the United States) manufacturers had their own version which could even differ on their cars. These adapters and leads tend to get lost/mislaid with the passing of time due to lack of use (unless the garage/mechanic specialises in the model. And I've just read, according to Wikki, VW in 1968 "introduces the first on-board computer system" which explains to me why their computers programs got so complex on their later vehicles. If I have understood correctly, according to a previous Briskoda posters the VCDS may cover engine, ABS, air bag, immobiliser and diesel electronics, the system will read and operate very slowly compared to later cars and more modern models.

Well now you need to orientate the badges and take into consideration the black bolt cover position, the tyre valve position and the aesthetic of the wheel, it's spokes and spaces, you need 25k-mile to sort that properly. 🙃 For wheel changing (or moving) with the stupid wheel bolts (instead of nuts on to studs) I use two alignment wheel stud tools to compensate for the lack of wheel studs as the VW wheel slipped off the very narrow centre lip and like an idiot I tried to stopped the wheel falling 1" (25mm) to the ground and I had interment back issues for the next 5 years from that 1 second of stupidity. And the next time I do wheel rotation I'll make sure I have two more of the tools instead of using the two on the two different wheel positions (bl**dy silly bolts and why five when four is enough). I also keep the locking wheel bolt in the same position on the wheel that way I have an 80% chance of knowing if the Dealership/garage actually took the wheel off. Alignment tool.

Just for info, you may already know and have done but in case not. "In order to achieve flawless measuring results, the engine should be kept at a speed of approx. 2,500 rpm. This ensures that the operating temperature of the probe is reached, even in systems with an unheated lambda sensor. If the exhaust gas temperature is not sufficient in idle mode, there is a risk that the unheated probe cools down and a signal is no longer generated." - https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-lambda-sensor-4379/# "Narrowband sensors (zirconia and titania), especially pre-catalytic converter, are tough to test with a multimeter. Multimeters do not respond fast enough to catch a narrowband sensor’s rapidly changing output." "3. Connect the multimeter to the heater’s power wires or contacts. Back-probes are the best tool for this. If you do not have access to back-probes, it may be easiest to connect the multimeter to the power lines by disconnecting the oxygen sensor from its harness, and connecting the multimeter to the connector. You should read the engine service manual to learn what you can and cannot do here." - https://gtc.ca/blog/testing-oxygen-sensors/

I'm not a fan of most alloy wheel looks generally but must admit the SEAT wheels are more attractive. A finishing touch would be to have the centre Skoda badges oriented on the wheels the same on each wheel, same for the position of the locking wheel bolts especially as they have a black plastic cover and the other bolts appear not to, though neither of these things might bother you and others. Glad you're happy with your new wheels and tyres.

Hi, welcome. Then why not use it to test the sensors, plenty of videos and information about, just one example. - https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-lambda-sensor-4379/

Does your 2019 Fabia also act like a very nervous and very interfering with it's hands on yours and on your feet, throwing up amber warning about the road, your driving, a leaf blowing in the wind and the warnings are so brief they catch your eye but not up long enough to see what they were, having distracted your gaze from the road?

Well it is a 4-pot but also, you can't really compare a Toyota with a VW, Japanese engineering against German, it's just not fair. 😄

There are far too many competing priorities for the computer programmers programs, then what's going on with the car and how these programs interpret everything and that's not allowing for computer errors and glitches and (not saying this is with your car) components and parts perhaps not fully working or faulty. The manufacturers are still learning about these things and despite any amount of pre-launch testing often it's the customer's use in the real world over real time that aids development. British customers used to do most of the testing and product development once they bought the vehicles for some British brands (I know I was one of those customers). 🤣

This needs a separate thread, I've no idea how accurate the VCDS would be with a 2019 car but that seems a large difference. I've been driving a couple of different 2023 car, one a VW SEAT 1.0, 3-pcylinder, 110, and the other a Ren-No! Nissan and testing them out in Eco, normal/standard and sport and I think some issues may come from owners/drivers who are interested in fuel consumption not understanding the basics that in basic terms fuel consumption is about throttle pedal movement and revs and higher gears being gentler on engine wear and mixing the two up engine wear and consumption by running at too lower engine revs and gear. I proved this to my neighbour who likes to look at the car's (claimed) on-board computer fuel consumption figures. These cars, including my wife's 2015 Fabia have very little in the way of engine braking compared to older cars with far fewer electronics, computers and fancy engineering of the ancient ICE technologies. In the Ren-No! I left an uphill dual-carriageway in 5th (out of 6) manual gears on a narrow turn-off to an unclassified road and slowed so much that an amber waring message very briefly flashed up saying something about stalling but it never did even before I changed down a few gears, the computers rushed in to resolve the issue. I also showed to my neighbour that follwing Ren-No!'s manual gear recommendations an those low revs didn't give fuel saving and it was all about micro or ore throtle pedal movements, being steady with the throttle pedal and perhaps use of cruise control, perhaps speed-limiter (but I never use such driver interference stuff as I like to drive (well or not) a car and not be a passenger or part-time driver sitting behind the steering wheel). The gearing in these 1.0 3-cylinder VW engine'd cars seem to be very low to cope with the engine having to pull modern heavier cars and perhaps five passengers and luggage, if you want fuel economy try holding the gears a bit long and getting the revs up a bit higher perhaps whilst still going through the gears in a brisk but not racing manner. Following VW's recommendation for manual gear selection seems to me to be biased to far to engine saving, save the engine by timely, thorough engine oil and filter changes using very good quality oils and having the engine, and the rest of the car running well. Same for if you are not concerned too much with fuel consumption as well. Good luck.

This is an English language site. so it's best to translate to English, I've done so below so that others can give you the answer (as I do not know). Good luck.

Well done on getting it sorted. I doubt most Dealers and their staff would be bothered or know how to revive the battery satisfactorily even if it was possible, which with your battery it sounds like it was too late. I'd expect a battery to last more than two years but it does depend on use/abuse and neglect, but even though you can certainly depleted even a new battery unless there's a problem you should see longer than a couple of years. Skoda in their Owner's Manuals have that you change the battery at 5 years (or is it less now?) which should be totally unnecessary given preventative use of an appropriate charger maintainer. I expect to see some batteries changed at four years or less (depending on vehicle warranty decisions) with new cars and those from say 2021 onwards. Breakdown call outs because of battery issues will continue to be the number one, and growing, cause with still the vast majority of these that could have been avoided and premature sales of expensive batteries will continue and probably vastly increase. Don't be among the statistics, you know how to generally avoid that. - https://www.whatcar.com/advice/owning/what-are-the-most-common-breakdown-causes/n18506 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year/#comment-5814322 VW, BMW and Merc have been relying on the decades out of date belief that their "German build quality" is still high, as high as it was last century, and of course those buying the vehicles and wanting to retain their sales value and of course loyal marque fans, won't want this belief to diminish. VW like the vast majority, if not all, of car manufacturers often spend a lot of time effort and money getting away with as much as they can and we in the the UK are a soft touch and let them so it's good when someone doesn't allow them to get away with everything, well done, many of us are so beaten down by it all we do accept it too much. The front wings on our VW product hire car seem so flimsy I can imagine they'd rot very quickly once started, I was looking for dents after last night's strong winds. Good luck.