Former

Uhmmm, I think, could well be wrong of course, that things are not added or removed so that they can be sold as extras in a soft-touch(ed) market like the UK. We used to have cars going and coming into the UK where many extras would be available to UK at extra cost but fitted as standard for say Japan and that "loaded" vehicle still at lower in Japan than the non-extras car in the UK.

On that theme you would want timely servicing , maintenance and repairs of the whole and beyond the VWSkoda limited "servicing" and "maintenance" schedules keeping well on top of all clean and lubricate stuff. For the engine that would be timely changes of engine oil and filter using very god quality oil for a sporty car and good quality oil filter, changing the air filter perhaps well in advance of VWSkoda schedules (in the UK at least) and spark plugs, Just because a part is working doesn't mean it is working as good as it could or should be and in relation to a performance model too. No need to wait if you do not want to, fill up the tank again now with 98 or 100. A problem is that you can soon get used to improvements and they become the norm and no longer improvements - at least until you have to drop to previous levels. Good luck

I wasn't joking when I put your observations would help others, particularly those thinking or looking to buy the model. Cruise control is another thing I don't like but until a couple of years ago I was driving a 1973 MG Midget so used to what was on it (very little) being fully manual/mechanical, this one did have cabin and boot light though, no additional electrics at all, and no real point having a radio/"stereo" let alone a clock/phone thingy. Personally I find the gear change feel a bit clonky but if not rushed (at all) it's fine for a family hatch/estate, I changed the gearbox oil and that helped a tiny fraction for a while at least. The interfering computer programs to me are a PITA and my wife said what I'd warned about finally happened the other day, whilst she was driving slowly in traffic the front anti-collision thing threw up a warning and jumped on the brakes for no apparent reason and then she saw a bag blowing in the wind. It showed as inactive before and then was OK I said probably a big leaf had got stuck to to the grille. Then there are the other over concern computer programs, but you get similar on all modern cars now. I also drive neighbours' cars, one a 2023 Ren-No! Nissan has all the modern auto stuff (and adaptive cruise control I believe) with start/stop/ electronic handbrake but being manual gearbox it's computer programs are like an over nervous driver that gets itself unnecessarily into very awkward situations whilst it divers about deciding what it should do and what it will allow the driver to do, lane-assist (as it says in the Handbook) has lots of requirements to work properly so is very hit&miss, off&on, so unreliable when perhaps really needed but very interfering when not needed, I've no idea if this id the same for VW products. I do very, very occasionally sit in the back and really like to have the windup windows, I do however occasionally wind the windows up and down again when I open the back doors to give them exercise to stop them sticking as the back seats and windows are so rarely used, same for the car horn so I know it works for MoT, I rarely use the horn other than humpback bridges and a blind areas. As I put you do as you please with your car and reporting back is very good and helpful to others.

Here VCDS (previously VAG-Com) is favourite, a to me horrible looking presentation (like programs from the 1990s or before) legacy system but many are used to it and like it. There's only one pin in Sydney for Briskoda owner. I've never seen it but I think you can bang it on an old laptop to make it a dedicated machine but I don't know. Otherwise I guess the usual names that have their hardware, cases and connectors all made at the the same places in China (and who knows stolen software bits from China), but those do depend on the model even with the same manufacturer/provider for how good the programs on it are and of course you can use it on loads of other makes and models. A neighbour had a TopDon that covered can/van makes I'd never heard of out your way but it did have it's limits for my wife's 2015 Fabia but certainly had bi-directional capabilities. Having Googled the numbers I wonder if it's the sensors or just the wiring or connectors to them a better scan tool would pin this down more (but probably be the sensors given all the posts about this for VWs) and a better scan tool would say which sensor if it is the sensor, could be other of course. I've owned a few Japanese cars (always very reliable) and they were more interesting models but I can understand some models might lack spirit (as German cars generally do for me) but when we had to replace things like front dampers when I know others with 20+year old and 28+ year old Toyotas still on all factory suspension I'd find them less boring. 😆 We only got to 20,000 miles before the first issue and had other issues after that and have ongoing niggles, so our lost is your gain, or visa-versa. 😆 I bought my Skodas in the mid to late 1980s (before VW took over, and actually the quality dropped initially with them) and they were different, very cheap and fun to drive (rear-engine, RWD) now it's just VW making them cheaper so as not to spoil their named brand (and formerly making them heavier so they didn't go quicker than the VW models too apparently). Good luck, someone might be along here with all the info you need or past experience to help you.

VW have to distinguish between their brands to help justify the the level and price of it's own name products. Skoda is a cheaper brand, always has been. Some of the missing features could possibly be 'coded' into the car with a relevant scan tool and someone who knows what they're doing with it. Personally I dislike most of the driver "aids" and "niceties" I'd sooner have wind-up windows as there's less to go wrong and less weight to the car. If you want more auto this and that then a newer model with have those (PITA things to me). Having to put the ignition on to get the windows down (or up) really annoys me and not being able to do it with the remote. The car was my wife's choice I'd sooner she bought an older Japanese model for the same money, so does she now. 😉 What's semi-climate btw? You're going for tinted windows rather than waiting to see what else might need spending on with a 7+ year old car, your money, your decision, you may be a lot luckier with cars than me, then just about everyone else always seems to be. 😄 I'm very unusual here (and elsewhere 😁) because I've never been a fan of VW cars (well Golf Mk1 GTi excepted) or Mercs or most BMWs and know the "German engineering quality" is a thing of the last century really, not this century. The Fabias aren't bad cars in any way but some VW parts quality doesn't appear to be great or have much longevity. If you want loads of extras on a car why didn't you go for the less popular brands and manufacturers, some would only just be out of warranty or buy an older better make with all the bells and whistles on paid for by original purchaser. Good to get the observations of new owners for others to see, perhaps you might also post in the 'About to buy a SKODA? - New to SKODA? Not sure of an option, want to get real feedback? We have your back, ask question of fellow owners for your new car' where as it put real feedback would also be very helpful. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/288-about-to-buy-a-skoda/ Keep letting us know how you get on, remember the tips I gave you and apply them as you like but they are from experience of the model and 30+ years of owning various classics and using them as ordinary cars as they were built to be used and not old-fart sunny Sunday afternoon short drive to a local show and back - but perhaps I don't quite have as many years driving experience a you, I passed my test in 1977 and rarely drove a car before 1977. Good luck.

Have you or anyone else been coding these items or perhaps fitted new parts? Have you got one of these DSG/auto type gearboxes? Have you tried doing a general error report and got any error codes, if so did you try deleting them all then driving the car for a while to see if any returned? Do you actually have a problem with the car (warnings or lights) or is it the MaxiECU that is reporting a fault and may be at fault itself with its programming? Is your MaxiEcu fully up to date for VWSkoda models in your region? The German marques generally have very complex intertwined computer programming so need specialised program scan tools, lower priced scan tools may throw up their own difficulties with the car, if you have access to another higher level and/or more VW scan tool to check what results that gives to confirm or deny the MaxiEcu? I'm surprised in Aus you buy European cars when Japanese cars seem the much more obvious choice, do VW sell Skodas at low prices in Aus?

I was not fully correct but at least you knew what I meant, thanks. .

Quick thoughts: there is a part that ends with A and a part that ends with B(?)/C(?)- have you got the right part and fitted it correctly, errors and warnings sometimes disappear by driving the car a distance (not always that far I think) so if you've not already done so try driving it and see if the message goes away having appeased the Gods that are computers and their programming. ETA: we don't know which YouTube video you mean as I (almost) sure there is more than one YT vid on this. Let us know how you get on.

Unless I have got it wrong, seems to be something like this, an old gas "geezer" type looking thing from the 1950s, very 21st century engineering I'm sure, Jules Verne might recognise it. 🫠 ETA This one is listed on eBay UK as a "VOLKSWAGEN GOLF MK8 GTI Catalytic Converter GPF Particulator Filter 5WA131723D".

A basic scan tool may give a start many times but I would say for the very complex VW computer programs you want more than a generic OBD scan tool you want a good scan tool with specific programs for your VW product otherwise the information may be too general and even have error(s). Using a good scan tool is often necessary but the results still have to be interpreted correctly, not always will the scan tool give you the instant answer, plus using a scan tool or not the other basics of the car and diagnostics need to be carried out to very often fully successfully resolve things. It's always been that you want the car battery fully charged before carrying on extended tests to sort out engine starting and electrical issues but it is more so with more modern cars.

I have no idea what the problem was in that thread and realised it might not apply to your case, as I put the presentation was different. I am not suggesting a broken spring now but you must always consider that an issue may have more than one point of source and that there can be contributing factors which is why you want as much as you can to be working properly as much as possible or reasonable, even if not directly related things can be indirectly related. I don't think cleaning a throttle body or MAF sensor will solve your issue but either or both, if required, might help generally, same idea as having a fully charged battery before spending a long time looking for engine starting or electrical issues, 160,000km is a good point I think to do more servicing and maintenance than a Dealership might to keep the car in good and help resolve issues (that can be resolved). Just out of curiosity does your car have a GPF as I wonder how much computer programming might have been rewritten for it (I have no idea)?

As an aside, I just looked in my shed and found the throttle cleaner I used on a mate's car, I've not used it yet on my wife's Fabia because the mileage isn't that high yet and I loathe doing anything on our cars and that one particularly, as he didn't want to remove the throttle body we used it on the car but it did not do as well as I would usually have it by taking parts off the car. I normally also use clean old rags (so not the ones I wear) and if appropriate a clean old toothbrush too. Other brands are available just the one I bought, (keeps it German too 😁) Liqui Moly Pro-Line Drossen Klappen Reiniger (Clean Throttle Flaps) Throttle Valve Cleaner. -https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/pro-line-throttle-valve-cleaner-p000072.html#5111 I have also used a MAF sensor cleaner on a few mates' vehicles to good effect, one in particular a 2005 diesel small car type van, on the test drive after he said it was the first time in a very long time he got up the rev range that high, I only cleaned the sensor nothing more. It was of no noticeable just, driving effect on my wife's Fabia as it was lower mileage and quite clean anyway (I didn't bother checking with scan tool), I only done the Fabia because it was so easy to access, VW didn't even bother to use the two screw holes available on the sensor just the usual VAG fantastic-plastic clips.

Wasn't a Fabia thread, Octavia in UK IIRC. You are in luck I have found it again, I don't always, but also note it seems to relate to 2017 so hopefully they had it sorted by 2019 and that throttle problem presented differently, but as requested here is that thread. -

Hi, welcome. If it's a rubber belt VWSkoda UK finally admitted to yearly checks and 15 yr/180k-miles change (that's after many of us paid them for 5yr/50k-mile changes, the robbing buggers). Only doing 5,000 miles a year may not be as good for the car in some ways as you think and can often shorten the life of some things rather than lengthen them, plus there are other parts that can play up or fail so have some checks for the next 5 years at least. As you didn't seem to know about the previous 5yr/50k-miles are there any other service and maintenance items your car might have missed? Do you keep an eye on the state of charge of your car battery regardless of if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough? Out of date so ignore prices. -

The higher octane petrols also generally have higher levels of cleaning additives which you may feel give additional benefits. As you have a more sporty engine you may wish to take advantage of that by sticking to the required 98 (+) octane petrol, as stated it "can increase the power and reduce the fuel consumption". Why bother having a higher powered engine and not run it on the recommended rating of fuel and have "slight power loss" and "slightly increased fuel consumption" other than only having 95 available as a top up to get you to the next available 98 fuel, or cost, in which case why have a sporty engine.

Yes going in different gears before might help, making sure the revs are right down to idle especially for reverse, sometimes letting the car roll forward or back a very small amount can help for first. Pushing the clutch down twice before selecting gear might help too, bit hit and miss if i's "off cog". Probably not a different grade but wider grade and better quality oil might help when the gearbox is very cold or warm/hot - but these may be very marginal differences if your existing gear oil is at correct level and good condition. Any change in gearbox oil you notice will be pure placebo, any mechanical engineer will tell you this and they are never wrong, as they will always tell you. 😄 They are why travelling Encyclopaedia salesmen went out of business, if you know the old joke. Tony, I change the gearbox oil on my wife's 2015 Fabia at 5 1/2 years old and 38k-miles and she said she did notice the difference and we've been together far too many decades for her to say anything just to please me. If I was you I'd go for something very good like Millers EE Performance MTF 75W "Fully synthetic gear oil with ester technology". It will protect more and for longer. Look for it selling at lower price somewhere. As the box appears to have a 1.1 litre refill you could either go for one 1-litre bottle as residue oil is always left in the box, or go for two 1-litre bottles and use some of the second botte (warmed in water or left out in the sun on a warm day on warm tarmac or concreate) as a good rinse-flush after the last drops of existing oil has drained. I found the gearbox overfilled I presumed from factory so if yours is the same with plenty left in a second bottle you could if you want to and wanted to go to the bother overfill again but I'd not bother, perhaps the overfill makes selecting gears more difficult. 🤣 Millers EE Performance MTF 75W "Fully synthetic gear oil with ester technology" - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8327.pdf If you do an oil change get the gear oil warm/hot before draining, leave to drain to drops, warm flush-rinse oil if you want, always check you can fully remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug for obvious reasons. But like forgetting to put the engine oil drain plug back in and torqued before putting fresh oi in these mistakes do happen. On my wife's Fabia the fill and drain plugs were close to each other in position of both depth and proximity. The fill plug was a PITA to get at with the tools I had available. I don't have a pressure filler so I used an always very relucent "glamorous assistant" to till the gearbox from the engine bay using a funnel and garden hose off-cut whilst I laid under the car making sure the 1/2" pipe stayed in the filler hole and to shout stop when the oil started coming out. I also have to take the plastic under-shield off and put it back on which is always a PITA thing for me, I am always a very reluctant "mechanic" on my cars or this VW product (simple jobs on neighbour's cars a lot less so). Whether you do an oil change or not let us know how you get on.

Well done on getting the car to its age. As for coming back, great to see you.

I thought your car was fully serviced but I might have been mistaken. Not having your engine code I had to guess at DKLD to look the part up, whilst doing so I found a thread on Briskoda about 1.0 TSI in UK being known to have throttle body issues which was dealt with by part replacement but as the part is expensive (in UK at least) and may or may not be an issue I would certainly start with cleaning it properly to see if that gives any improvement. To clean it properly it needs to come out and be properly and thorough cleaned, it looks like after you've removed whatever is necessary to get at it you just need to remove the "retaining bar" by taking its "holding bolt" out, Personally I would always use a good make of specialised throttle body cleaner rather than a more generally cleaner as I always expect the correct chemical(s) product to do all the hard work of cleaning for me without causing any concerns about its use on the item. I believe it is recommended to replace the throttle body seal too and given this whole work isn't a difficult job but is, like many perhaps on a car, just awkward, so a PITA to me, I would replace the seal for the no doubt few pounds (for a bit of rubber) to save me wrestling with the stupidly designed engine air filter box again. If you have not already done so recently I would also suggest cleaning the inside of the air box and the inside any air feed pipes you can easily get at, and consider replacing the air filter, if required whilst the stupidly designed air box is out of the car. And if appropriate check or change the spark plugs whilst the stupidly designed PITA air filter box is out of the way too.

Was this swapping the position of coil at No.2 to another cylinder to see if the error code moved with it?

I am a fan of cleaning throttle bodies so they can work within their full range and have it within any parameters for computer programs but I don't think this would be the resolve here, but it might help otherwise at 100K-miles (160,000km) and do no harm as part of servicing and maintenance at this sort of mileage. Rover V8 stepper-motors used to stick so you could be going along at pace (not necessarily high revs) approaching a bend or give-way/stop, lift off for the engine braking you got with those engines and/or apply the brakes but the engine revs remained pushing you along more than you wanted, not great and intermittent so the fun of not knowing when it would happen next. You could clean or replace the stepper -motor but it could return regardless.

That's another part of it that annoys me. I find the ignition cylinder lock a convenient place for the key to be kept whilst in the car, I don't have loads of other keys in with it like some do, but each to their own, I see no benefits only possible additional future issues, but I'm not overkeen on remotes, a keyblade in a door cylinder lock is fine for me. 🙃

Hi Chris, welcome. You might get an answer here (Fabia MK3 forum) or you might be better asking on the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/

Thanks, I forgot the push button bit. As we are on the subject and having to fart about with my neighbour's car this morning with such a system, can you tell me other than fashion and having a whizzy gimmick what are the benefits of such a system as I just do get it on the car, I used to vaguely deal with proximity door entry system a few decades back.

Sorry, I had forgotten that for yourself, I think much has already been put here already so unless other viewers post to that thread you might have to look at other Skoda or VW models with the same engine and gearbox of the same age and see what they have discovered. I don't know and I am biased but I think it might be to do with VW programming and might not get sorted by VW as your car is out of warranty, that's if they knew how to sort even if they wanted to but I could well be wrong and this can be sorted and someone has a resolve. A long shot, you could perhaps try posting in the 'General Maintenance' forum or become a Freedom or Freedom Lite supporter and post in the 'Ask a Tech' forum. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/103-general-maintenance/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/51-ask-a-tech/

To eliminate possible error in display you need an appropriate (with program for VW ) scan tool, this of course only eliminates the display and not any error in the car's information or error in the scan tool but you would hopefully get a more accurate figure if there is an error with the display.