Former

Your photo looks like it might be of a rear brake drum, in a very quick skim through the 'HatBoyHarvey' vid I think his brakes were all discs so that might be the difference and perhaps the bleed nipple on your brake drum is 10mm. When you have the pipe on and bleed nipple(s) open before pushing the brake pedal (if you are going to push the pedal) or fixing up pressure thing, put some grease around the now exposed threads on the bleed nipple(s) and that will help not to draw air past the threads and into the system and fluid moving in the tube.

Your attachment doesn't open. In the following video the size appear to be 11mm he says some are 10mm, the guy 'HatBoyHarvey' seems to make good videos on the mk1 Fabia, he shows two methods, a version of two-person and container (jar) this can also be adapted to done by one-person, ask if you want details, and one person pressure system which many favour (but nnot me). Or you can ask on the Mk1 Fabia forum on this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk-i-1999-2007/ HTH. SKODA FABIA Brake Bleeding and Fluid Change (MK1 99-07) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNg_0Fg_Hso

Mistakes are also copied from one database to others, same for car parts and all other stuff. Aways check any information you get, for anything, from any source including manufacturers, Government and particularly off the internet, if you can check and cross-reference against a couple of other (as much as possible) reliable sources. As put a confirmed VIN should give original build information from various sources. Good luck.

Yes I've explained that a leak should be reasonably easy to find by various methods for non-specialist VW SEAT garage or VW SEAT specialist garage/Dealership and only requires the time, effort and will, though it has been away for days at a time on at least on two occasions I know of. Tiring for me to think of all the plastic bits in a German car engine bay (and I forget the plastic bits inside some German engines). I assume the Aldi plastic bits are of better quality as they are also (hidden) on the Bentleys. Top-ups were originally with tap water before I took some spare VW G14 coolant (known as G12evo) but after about 4.5 litres over the months I've run out and apparently the local SEAT Dealership specified G12evo from there computer system (though of course that is more of a concern and has me questioning my decision). It's not say the VW garages are any better as her friend had the little rad replaced because of a leak for the car to back to have much of the work repeated as they failed to notice a crack in the plastic of the main rad - and of course they get away with charging for the two jobs. I'm back there Thursday hoping I can get a top up of G14 (to the 'min' line) for the hire Arona as that will mean the Leon has been sorted but I won't hold my breath.

"Hand me down the Troll repellent Bat Spray." "Holy behemoth ogre, there's no point he's already repellent."

Yes, see previous answers. Total generality but a 0w-30 oil may be better than a 5w-30 or perhaps a 0w-40 if you get warmer/hotter weather too - but the numbers only mean so much, a good oil is a good oil but obviously a better oil is better if it is required. I would use 0w-30 here in UK and where I am and we have never experienced -25c (lowest recorded -18.3C on 8 February 1895) but unusual to get minus about 6 or 7 I would guess (cannot check at the moment).

You definitely want to view the oil temperature and take more notice of that for engine warming than the coolant temperature gauge and see when the oil gets to 90c which may be more than 10m (16km) depending on what precautions you have with the car for driving in such temperatures. Personally, if I was keeping the car particularly, I would be using very good quality fully (proper) synthetic engine oil and good quality engine oil filter for those temperatures especially when only doing short journeys as the better oils work better and protect better at very low temperatures (and very high temperatures). What VW recommends is fine but I would want better as I have no commercial tie-in with any oil company and I have an interest in the engines and transmissions (and car) lasting well beyond VW's maximum warranty period. Depends on the conditions, at least out of the sun perhaps, the dark might be good for the tyres, you would know better than I from experience. It might, or might not, mean you need your brake fluid checking/changing more. Brakes are the most important system, components, parts on the car, then steering and suspension (all three include tyres) safety electrical items (lights, horn, blower, etc.), windows and mirrors (see and be seen) the engine and other stuff is actually of less priority. If the car doesn't or can't move it is generally safer than if it can not stop, steer or reasonable handle with it being driven. That's good but may not count much against the rest of the lack of use. Say 1,500 miles a year that leaves only say 1,500 miles spread over say 350 days of the year. Yes sorry I am slow at typing and then editing my post, I did correct that edit when I remember the 7 years was your driving experience. Anything else you want to know just ask, living in such condition you must have lots of experience after 7 years of driving but we can all, regardless of age and experience, learn more (or be reminded of some of the stuff we might have forgot at my age).

The time and miles numbers are just given as an average, your car servicing, maintenance items and engine oil (and filter) could need changing before or after any interval given be it time or milage. I don not know what country you are in or about the ambient temperatures or weather or if your car is garaged or always kept outside so the following is just general. For a lot on things on the car lower use and milage is not as good as you may think, it may be much higher use and milage is better. For the engine oil if you do lots of short journeys so that the engine oil does not warm enough this is worse than if you do longer journeys where the engine oil fully warms up and remains warm. Better to look at the oil temperature than the coolant temperature gauge as that gauge is set to show 90 and remain at 90 even though it could be below or above 90, you want the oil temperature to show 90c to consider the engine and engine oil warmed. If you do lots of short journeys, less than say 16km (10m) non-stop, particularly in very cold weather then changing the engine oil (and filter) once a year would be very advisable if you intend keeping the car a good while. Mileage makes little odds to other items on the car but can reduce average wear by sheer lack of use but it is that lack of use that can have adverse effects on other items. The car battery may get into lower states of charge so age and wear quicker. The preventative use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger instructions will help prevent the earlier demise of the car battery and help prevent other issues a battery in low state of charge can cause. Preventative charging is done before the battery gets too low in charge which is well before any warning lights or messages appear and certainly before the engine has any difficulty in starting straight away. Just because the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough does not mean that the battery can not be in a low state of charge. Lack of mileage may mean the tyres age more so whilst the tread depth remains through low mileage the tread can become hard and less flexible, and same for the sidewalls, you may see crazing or cracking on the sidewalls, even if not the tyres may not perform as well due to aging and possibly lack of use. You have not mentioned engine air filter, usually changed at or between spark plugs changes again it depends on the environment where the car is parked but it could get dirty just with the car parked up. Have a read of your Owner's Manual for lots of very useful information about your car and how you should drive it and look after it. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you have not had the brake fluid and spark plugs done since 2 years ago you may need the brake fluid changing or checking.

KESSY you probably want a good reliable battery make from a good reliable source but for the non-KESSY remote I've used poundshop type batteries with no issues at all. @rum4mo I'm glad to hear the batteries last 8 years, though when the remote failed on my wife's car I did make a distress purchase of Duracell 2025, £2.50! Your daughter should use both keys and not keep one as a spare that way both remotes, batteries, keyblades and locks get even wear and she'll know exactly where the keys are and that both work rather than hunting for the mislaid (or lost) "spare" key to also find the battery is flat (bit like many spare wheels in boots). My wife has a hire car at the moment and it's 2023 VW SEAT Arona, 1.0, 3-pot, Opie Oil have it as a SUV, though the term is much overused the car look nothing like a SUV to me, not that it matters. The engine oil was on the full line but the coolant was just below min but has remained at that level so is fine, as you'd expect I checked the small car battery and put the charger on 5+ hours later it showed "FUL". Our hairdresser has a s/h 2019 VW SEAT Leon FR which has a coolant leak the garage/warranty company can't or can't be bothered to sort, I've tried not to worry her but increased the severity of possible causes as the car's been in three times that I've been told, they've (claimed to?) changed the coolant, new pressure cap and new pressure tank/reservoir on each visit (yes, I know) - any likely suspect for the loss? ETA: 1.5 TSI – 1495cc 96KW 130HP – DPBA

You should advise them and tutor them to do the work then in the future you can get them to do the work for you on your car and in your home, be grateful when they can do a better job than you. My wife is much better at identifying noises and remembering issues on a car than me (decades of practice with old cars) and yet sometimes I still say no I don't think it's that, just shows me up more when inevitably it is what she said. A mate has three strapping sons (wendy ball players at the time) and two of them were out in their mum's old Daewoo Matiz when the wheel (tyre) needed changing (they had three stud/bolts to each wheel) but it was beyond them to know or change the wheel, a mechanic at a nearby local garage took pity on them and done it for them as if they were sick elderly gents or ladies. One later I'm sure put oil in the coolant reservoir, at least he was trying. I blame the dad as I went to school with him and despite having loads of money now (unlike me, spent on cars) he does some of his own basic car jobs. The third son, the eldest and clumsy and always best kept away from any tools and much ease is now a Policeman and has had Police driver training of some sort, gawd help us all especially those where he work. During his probation/training period he managed to get T-packed as he got a new car that was cloned from the number plates and he's policing the demonstrations down that-there Lundun (overtime). Wow I'm a gossip and windbag!

Now that was ironic and doubly funny as those that repeated it possibly didn't know or forgot that some BL cars at least were devoid of such luxuries. Best one I heard was when I got my first speeding ticket, in 1985 in my 1985 120LS (4-speed) Estelle 2, the pedestrian copper waved me down at the roadside and apologised for having to report me but locals had been complaining, I didn't say so but was glad he'd pulled me over where he did as I was yet to get into 3rd off the lights, a wag at work later said "wot, did he write down your VIN number as you passed him at the roadside", one of the most original and best I heard. Doesn't look so good on paper and perhaps you had to be there to get the off the cuff speed, wit and intonations of it. I'm too young for 1976 driving and a new 1979/80 car so don't really know the 110R but I was once given as a courtesy car, not that they really done such things then, the Dealership (backstreet, lowly, friendly garages unlike the VWSKoda ever (but never) changing ones now) "flagship of the fleet" 105 Mk1 Estelle with huge mileage which I was told they couldn't kill despite giving it no attention, it was great fun slow but very willing and always trying, probably down in the 30s for hp, but a relatively light car (unlike lardy German stuff and modern cars) but boy was the steering stiff and heavy, even for the time and for such a relatively light car. I was overtaking something on a dual-carriageway when it cut out and sailed to a stop, no fuel. When I moaned about this when I returned the garage co-owner said "I told you to ignore the fuel gauge not the red low warning light". I was young having some fun, the Estelles were great fun, particularly the 2s and with wide (185/70r13 IIRC) Goodyear Eagle tyres, easy to embarrass a de-badged (ETA: BMW), even in those days, (probably 1.6) on the back roads.

Rooted and others will know about the 1.0 MPI engine. My wife currently has a 2023 VW SEAT with 1.0 3-pot TSI engine and it's not as bad as I was expecting ((we had Japanese 657cc turbo and 657cc 3-pot turbo engine'd cars, and a 699cc other German marque and they were great engines) I've never been a fan of VW 4-pots (never driven other VW engine vehicles other than the old air-cooled) and my wife's 4-pot 1.2 TSI is a bit (lot sometimes) badger's bottom sounding but goes well enough. I think you've missed the boat for minimise electronic reliance with a 2015 VW but not as bad as 2019?, 2021? 2023. Try disconnecting the battery monitoring stop/start at the battery negative terminal if you want to reduce some of the computer interference and reliance. Though your kids no doubt will want the infotainment and ****Nav "essentials" still and updates. Yours might not be in the group to suffer from such. My wife's is a September 2015 registered car but was made I think in April 2015 with a few bits on it as perhaps new year/model Dealership car, it's original history was made vague, my wife bought it at 10K-miles at about 18-months old from the Dealership as former owners, I'd trusted none of them there not to steal the sugar out of a hot coffee they gave me but my wife wanted the colour of the car and there were very few in the country s/h at the budget she had and this one exceed it, when they wouldn't give what we wanted we actually walked away and was in their car park looking at which GBG pub we would go to as we were 40 odd miles from home when the "salesman" just caught us before we drove off, how we wish we'd looked earlier. Get your kids to read and refer to the Owner's Manual, instead of Google to find stuff out, and they will save themselves (and you if you're a soft touch) time, hassle and money. I used to pay professional mechanics to balls stuff up that I could balls up less for myself for very little labour cost. I used to pay them the money and get more hassle from their work and often have to redo the job myself and I'm not good at mechanics and loathe farting about on my own cars and still do a better job (note I never put good job). 🙃 I had someone contact me earlier in the year from a post I put up on a fix it site 10+ years about my wife's previous car because the photos had gone, the simplest of jobs that anyone could do, easier and quicker to do than I could write to explain (especially without photos) but honestly beyond some garages or they wanted to con the owners into more work and cost, same with folding roof issues that often (certainly not always) be solved sometimes by would you believe sticking the keyblade in the door cylinder lock or first stage of easy resolve, saves paying Dealership or unscrupulous auto-electrician. But I respect the want or need of anyone who'd sooner pay someone else to avoid perceived hassle, been there had the numerous t-shirts not fit and fall apart. 😃

My memory isn't the best but I'm almost sure the Jag chap said 6 per million - but then no one would expect an old British/English car company, particularly if was owned by an American company as I think it was at the time, to get to Japanese standards or even pretend to. 😃 Just in time, wot could possibly go wrong. 😄 Back to subject - I think given the latest info I would try just pressing the button dead centre and telling everyone else to do the same as probably replacements would be the same - nice quick, easy, no cost, clean hands fix too.

In car manufacturing costs including parts, were worked out to decimal places of penny/cent/whatever, with the use of Chinese manufacturing who knows how many places after the point - rather opposite to the approach of directors wages/renumerations/bonuses. 😄 Then of course quality testing and assurance might have changed, I remember being told on a club visit to Jaguar (West Bromwich?) how they'd introduced just-in-time-deliveries and were going for the (IIRC?) Omega 6 standard that the Japanese manufacturers had use for years (?6 faults/failures per million?). Wonder if they ever got that. 😆

A couple of lifetimes ago IIRC (always doubtful) the Japanese cars ran on 2-star UK petrol (see below). Didn't Aus used to import (higher quality*) Japanese/Asian vehicles, what made them go over to (lower quality*) German cars? * Note, I'm a rarity on this site as I've never been a VW fan (other than Mk1 Golf Gti and some old older BMWs) but I did own three (proper) Skodas in the UK in the 1980s when the Newspapers had their sheep reader turn the marque into literally laughing stock, possibly because of the low retail selling price and longer warranty period than the accepted marque that advertised in their "news" papers - so I've paid my dues (some of the jokes going about then were very funny). 😄

Well done. I took the remote apart for my wife's car and tried to clean it but no go, the contacts were fine as I know about this from my wife's previous car where the battery was changed as part of the service and hadn't been installed correctly, or that's what I guessed as just taking the cover off the remote and pushing the battery had it working from inside home, so another quick, easy, clean hands repair and from a seated position in the warm and dry - if only all car farting-about was like this. My wife's car always sets the alarm off, it's what the Owner's Manual tell you (tho' not in the relevant part of the book) but on a video of a YT chap I follow done it the alarm didn't go off then. With her previous car the keyblade lock barrel(s) weren't hidden and I almost always unlocked the doors using the keyblade as that too was the synchronising method and I prefer mechanical over electronic (and saving the battery for my wife's my wasteful use). I hope you're teaching your kids all the driver maintenance checks and work they should be doing and that you don't have to and shouldn't rely on pushing a button to do everything for them or expect a warning light or message to advise or get them out of trouble as they won't on these VW very complex computer programs, by the time you get many of the messages things have gone too far. Certainly for the car battery, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low for the 5v computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before any warning lights and messages (and error codes) show and by the time the low battery shows the battery has been possibly badly wounded and if left to engine won't start battery might not be reliably recovered. The German marques including VW love to show how "clever" they are but complex computer programs so you need a scan tool that reliably covers VW or dedicated to VW (legacy systems with car manufacturers). Luckily their are Briskoda members who can offer to help out often for beer tokens. For your kids I'd suggest you fit a coin meter for the car battery to teach them about electric consumption. 😆 Being serious I think it's important and empowering for car owners to know about all the driver maintenance and basics mechanics/electrics (not that I know, or ever knew, or can remember, even the very basics) particularly for the more venerable that way they learn about prevention, what to do to avoid some breakdowns and being taken advantage of by those who are unscrupulous particularly in the motor trade. If you have a look on the site you might see advice on getting remotes sorted by other than VW Dealerships, I just feel somethings are too important to have any reliability or trust issues on, certainly for my wife, plus all the hassle and responsibility would be transferred to me anyway and I'd sooner pay "hassle money" to prevent or avoid it. My wife went on 10-weeks night lessons for car maintenance basics in the 1980s but she expects me to do all the stuff even though she could do a lot of the stuff herself, I only need to know she could do it if she had to and all she needs to know is it's my job to do it. 😆 Be interesting to know if your kid(s) 2015 has the underside bump/clunk/squeak/rattle(s) noises. Cheers.

ETA: in case you don't know, forgot or haven't read it in the Owner's Manual, the car alarm will go off if you use the "emergency" door lock and open the door so you have to get the keyblade in the ignition barrel ASAP, I forget if you also need to turn the key to any position or not.

Hi welcome. I'm not sure if you're the new learner with new car or you mean someone else but you are way ahead of many either way by knowing about the red button and how to synchronise the remote. I'm not sure about getting a non-VWSkoda remote or s/h and getting someone to program it, I've seen one horror story on here of even a good professional outfit having a 1 in 10,000 problem and having experienced "1 in 5,000" error with car electronics myself (Japanese were more like 6 in a million IIRC with car stuff) and given the price you have been quoted, for a car new to you (or other person) provided this is the only major fault with the car, I'd suggest you buy from and have a VWSkoda Dealership install ('code') the new remote. I had the same thing with my wife's 2015 (1.2 TSI, 90 SE) last year year, February, on the coldest day of that time so can give you the figures from just after then. "N/SOCK KEY" 23/01/23 (so I remember wrong, again, about month 🫠) £143.40 (inc VAT) - 15/02/23 "CARRY OUT REPAIR PROGRAM KEY - KEY ORDERED AND INSTOCK REF PAUL" - £41.40. This was even more annoying as I have my wife alternate the use of the two remotes (every 6 months) so that the remote, remote battery, keyblade and ignition cylinder lock all get more even wear through more even use and it also means we know where the second remote/key is and that the battery isn't too low or flat and the remote that failed was the one with the least use from prior to her ownership of the car. As you probably know you can still use the keyblade on the duff remote so if the car is very new to you (or other) and you have limited funds then I might suggest holding off it's replacement until you have checked the money isn't needed for greater priority things on or with the car. If you don't already know I'd suggest you check the state of charge (and health if possible) of the car 12v battery and use an appropriate battery charger maintainer (the lower amperage charger the better) to fully charge the battery, following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and charger manual, if you get a reading of say less than say 12.3v (allowing for 0.2/0.3v computers draining). Free VWSkoda pdf Owner's Manuals download - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Skoda Recall Campaigns (well those they admit to) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH.

Personally I'd check the car battery clamps and state of charge, that's just driver maintenance anyway, clean and lubricate the existing button and its connections and order a new button for quick delivery to keep my wife happy - that's my 30+ years experience of using over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" as dallies and for holidays and more. Despite what some say I always found genuine period Lucas electrics to be great with some still working after 50+ years, unlike the modern VW stuff it would seem.

Could be personal reasons that are nobody else's business or just a personal decision for any number of reasons but whatever it is there's never a need for justifications for whether someone posts or not, stays or goes, all is voluntary. As far as I've seen Andreas has always offered help to others regardless of any perceived level or expertise or not they appear to, or not, possibly have, or not. And has helped us even though we often disagree, always giving answer when asked. Life happens to all of us and at all ages.

Hi, welcome. You would need to know exactly what part (number) is ordered to ask the local dealer of supply and delivery problems, seems silly to me that the mechanic/garage won't tell you what part it is they can't get. I don't know but it might be an expensive part so it needs to be the correct part to resolve the issue (or at least be a correct part to help resolve the issue not just parts cannon being fired without fully reasoning. Has your mechanic/garage got fully appropriate diagnostics tool(s) or experience of a VW / Skoda (Fabia) 2016. There are usually alternative parts and suppliers but if available on this part your mechanic/garage may not want to use them to ensure the part actually fits and works well and for warranty for him and you (his time your costs of his labour).

@Dandesc you did ask for opinions. 😃 Which marker is it down to, the rain or TWI (Tread Wear Indicator)? Making any judgements from an imagine on a device is difficult and full of pitfalls I think. If your tyre is only worn on the outside markers you might ask why that is, is that common for your model and year or a fault of car or tyre, is the front tyre on the other side the same. You don't need tread for dry warmer road surfaces but if you drive in England you know even when this is the case it could soon change so then you might need tread to push the water away to get the 'rubber' to contact the road surface. For the aquaplaning you were going too fast for the circumstances, doesn't matter what number or where the needle was on the speedo but we all make mistakes and I'm certainly not a good driver. If the aquaplaning really wasn't your fault (really?) then you will want to change that tyre ASAP or find out what else was at fault. IIRC elsewhere 3mm is considered the minimum, and perhaps here if you have a sportscars, that measurement will upset many. 😆 And though many think tyres start at 8mm, or 7mm, some start at less. Best thing to do is measure the tread depth across the whole tyre with a gauge or whatever, avoid any unseen raised bits inside the tread that might give false readings, look at the tyre generally, all the thread and sidewall(s) and decide how worn it looks (to really check the whole tyre you really need the car in the air or wheel off the car). The following video has labelled sections and shows things like how to measure tread depth using a 20p coin and gauge and also other information. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB1D7iJOgE0 I think it depends on where and how you drive as to when, what depth, you should change your tyre (subject to the rest of the tyre being in good or reasonable condition). HTH. You may, or may not, want to report back with your measurements, findings, decision or resolve. Good luck.

I know we often don't agree with each other but you will be a loss to the forum whilst you're gone and I sincerely wish the best for you in life, here or anywhere.

That's possibly two different things - stop/start button I assume you mean "ignition" button to turn the electrics on and then start the engine, as in turning the key to two different positions in the days of keyblades doing this (or do you mean the stop/start that cuts the engine out when stationary to save fuel and cut emissions?). Button could be the button needs replacing or if you're the slightest handy perhaps pop it out and clean an lubricate the bottom and its wire connections, might solve it or make it last longer, use WD-40 if nothing better is to hand, easily available in shops too as they've saturated the market. Another even easier and important check - that the car battery post terminal clamps are both clean and secure, grab one at a time by hand if you can move them (unless you're very strong) then it needs nipping (tightening) up. Same for the main cable and wires and connectors (including earths) clean, secure and protected. If there's a decent garage nearby (some mat still exist(?)) then get them to check the state of charge of the battery, if low you need to recharge and/or not use convenience electrics like a/c, heated anything, heavy use plug-ins, motorised stuff on the car (little as possible for safety items). RAC will be the first to sell you one of their expensive batteries whether you really need it (rather than proper charging) or not (unless you have their battery cover).

I wouldn't suggest or advise fitting your own battery if this is going to be covered by warranty as it will also need to be to their Warranty spec and 'coded' in to their warranty spec - and if it's not the battery actually at fault (very likely in my opinion and statistics) then this may hinder further investigation. As put charge the battery but make sure you follow the instructions for how to charge the battery in the Owner's Manual and the charger instructions. If your CTek is a 7-amp then if you can borrow an appropriate charger of lower amps then do as a low charge might (or might not) get more in and have it last longer than 7 or above charger. It may take the charger a (very) long time to get to full (if it ever gets to full with this battery) but the longer left charging (usually) the better and if necessary you can do it in stages. It may be that the battery is too tired or messed up to ever get to full charge or hold the charge for too much time or car use. Get to where the battery won't start a modern cars can often be too far from charging and this is your second non-start. Even for modern cars 2 years is a very short battery life which suggests possible alternator/computer programming faults or excessive user(s) use/abuse/neglect or possibly dodgy battery (least probable) or a combination of any of above. The battery being so low in charge on a modern car that it won't start the engine is a bit like a first heartache attack or stroke it may weaken things too much so that a second or third occasion is very unwanted, or perhaps terminal - but others have had very low batteries limp along for a long time by use of an appropriate battery charger, but they were not 2022 cars. Newer cars I would suggest will have even more similar issues which is why I try to promote the use of appropriate chargers which older folk have forgotten about (despite having to charge these "smart" phones/devices everyday, or few hours it seems to me blissfully without them).