Former

Just looking up Tayna batteries and I see varooom already has, I wish I could read faster. I note the list shows E44 VARTA SILVER DYNAMIC CAR BATTERY 77AH (577400078) (096) which is 278x175x190, 77Ah, 780 CCA EN [A]. When required and before you get warning lights and messages or battery difficulties you could if required use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to charge the battery which depending on your car and electrical use you might need or want to use at some stage(s) regardless of how big the battery is. For the car's 'Owner's Manual' (if that's what you meant) you can download a free Skoda pdf from this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you read the 'Owner's Manual' and refer to it even for what might seem very simple and obvious things then despite this being your first car you will know more about it than many long term owners and some at Dealerships and garages. First car or had many cars it usually pays not to assume and to ask questions to confirm what you might think you already know (or have forgot more than once if you're old). Good luck.

As varooom has put plus don't get too tied into big numbers, do you have a photo of current and/or proposed batteries or make and model number of proposed battery?

Well you gave it a go, it does take take patience and a lot of time on occasions but you can't always revive a battery that's been too heavily done down. Unless you have another known good battery to try then time for a new battery and perhaps when required charge that up sooner rather than later. Up to you if you prefer to go local and they might do or know someone to 'code' the new battery or lots get their batteries from Tayna - https://www.tayna.co.uk/ ring before 6.45pm and it's normally there the next day. And you can direct message the local guys that may be able to 'code' for you. They can also scan for other codes and delete all that are there and you can then see which or if any return after being deleted and the car driven. You stand more chance of starting a car, or often sorting electrical and computer issues with a good battery fitted. Good luck.

If the 6V reading is accurate then you may need the appropriate battery charger and a lot of time and patience and even then you may not fully recovery the battery for a reasonable service life if you've been having the battery too low for too long. I personally would have a go at recharging as I have a bit of experience with such but others might not bother and replace it with a new battery. Check your Owner's Manual for what's involved with charging the battery, or disconnecting/reconnecting the battery or replacing the battery with a new one. When the car battery gets too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and warning messages and lights are yet to appear the battery can still be too low for the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues - then of course the car can be difficult to start when the battery is low. Once you have a battery in reasonable health and good state of charge you can delete any codes and see what returns and what other issues you might have other than too low state of charge battery, if you're lucky you might not have other than the battery. Good luck. ETA: I remember helping to push one of those 911 models because the owner was too tight to pay Porsche to replace the over-priced battery, when his wife found out the car had needed pushing again he was instructed to cough up and shut up, a suggestion he'd declined from those of us pushing the car - at Gaydon, British Motor Museum. :shakehead:

@Jocko btw, I meant to put it'd certainly be worth following up the suggested switch checking it and its connections. If you're lucky it might only need the connections cleaning as required and then protecting, I favour using something like Contralube 77, a sachet goes a long way and tube much further also useful when replacing things like bulbs to lessen warning lights and messages. - PDS-Contralube_770.pdf

I'm not saying with this necessarily but generally keep your car battery from getting into a low state of charge as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery can get too low to keep the computers happy and they can throw up all sorts of issues even before the warning messages and lights signifying the battery is low. Sometimes just driving the car as you normally do is not enough to fully recharge the battery then an appropriate battery charger and maintainer is best used to fully recharge the car battery. If the battery is low this can take some times but if you can't get it fully recharged in one go then at the next opportunity use the appropriate charger and maintainer again to fully charge the battery. Remember the Owner's Manual is full of useful information and is best consulted even for what usually seem the simplest of driver's use and simple maintenance. If you read it and refer to it then yo will know more about your model than many longer term owners and some at Dealerships and garages. Skoda Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Hopefully another 2019 owner will be along to tell you if it's a common problem, I've not seen it but that means nothing. Good luck.

Thank you, a typo on my part, I'll rectify my error. ETA: I wonder how many VW, VAG markings are on the Climatronic unit and its parts, I've no idea perhaps it's all Skoda and marked up as such and same for its parts, IIRC bits that needed replacing or sorting on my wife's Fabia were marked with VW and VAG.

Fair enough I misunderstood your OP. I thought you might be getting it looked at sooner, good idea to leave it. Best not to fully believe any VW computer readouts without checking, in my experience they can be a bit forward, or backward in reporting and frightened of their own shadow. As you've found by now VW (ETA: and VWSkoda) are not Honda, hopefully your 2009 Fabia is more robust than my wife's 2015 Fabia but I doubt your Fabia will be restricted to one annual garage visit for an annual service, perhaps I'll be wrong and that's all it'll need, but in case not you might want to find a good and reliable indie VW/Skoda garage that can take on usual servicing work and also help with any future distress work that might (or might not) crop up in future. In which case an extra £15 is spread across a number of jobs and possible saving a lot of hassle and giving peace of mind rather than piecemeal visits to various places with initial lower monetary costs. But you can decide the world is your lobster.

Perhaps your short shunt drive/trip buggered the system temporarily and you could save £65 or £80 by driving the car normally and see if the Climatronic gives any more messages or not, "what's that Climatronic, "Sonny's trapped down a well and I need you to fetch the helicopter so we can rescue him right now!"". ETA: end of last century a mate had a newish Jag XJ and if he just moved it a short distance, say out of the garage to the drive to park or wash wash it, sometimes after that it'd not start the engine, IIRC he just disconnected the negative side of the battery waited a couple of minutes, reconnected and the car would start, they didn't like ultra short being shifted.

Good point about not assuming (makes an ass out of u and me) so do I take it that the Climatronic is telling you 318 and - "The Climatronic codes are displayed in hexadecimal. 318 in Hex is 792 in decimal." 00792 = A/C Pressure Switch (F129)". "00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) Possible Symptoms A/C System not working Possible Causes A/C System Malfunctions Over or insufficiently charged Refrigerant System blockage Insufficient Air Flow to Condensor and/or Engine Radiator Wiring to/from A/C Pressure Switch (F129) faulty A/C Pressure Switch (F129) faulty Possible Solutions Check A/C System for Malfunctions Check Wiring to/from A/C Pressure Switch (F129) Check A/C Pressure Switch (F129) Special Notes In some applications, the F129 will be refereed to as the High Pressure Sensor (G65) in the factory wiring diagram." http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00792

I've just tried on my wife's Mk3 Fabia, unlocked the driver's door with the key blade, alarms goes off as soon as I open the door so key blade in ignition switch and turned on (just for luck) asap to kill the bloody alarm. I opened the rear door from inside (child lock is always off), moved rear seat back forward and knocked the hat shelf up ready to remove it, easy access without crawling all over the car. A couple of minutes of very easy work (except for the annoying alarm).

I was going to check on my wife's Mk3 for you but looking out of the window I see the boot doesn't have an external key lock. 😄 Like the very best here I also make mistakes. Is your boot also missing the external key lock?

Hi, Welcome. If you've got a starting or electrical issue you want to be sure your battery is reasonable health and in a good state of charge as a battery in a low state of charge could hinder diagnostics, progress and even resolution whereas a fully charged battery might help. A fully charged battery will show around 12.7V after a rest. What OBD2 reader are you using, is it a cheap generic code reader (only) or a higher level scan tool with VW facility? What's the service history of the car and recent servicing or work done on the car? Any new parts fitted?

Right, in that case it might be a software, mechanical or electric/computer, such is the joy of modern cars. Intermittent is the pain of course but an interrogation with a high level scan tool might help especially if any history of fault is logged, otherwise it needs to be plugged in at time of fault but you shouldn't leave anything plugged into the diagnostics port for more than perhaps road tests. I'll report your post to ask for the thread to be moved to the Fabia Mk3 section as this is the Mk2 section. You can add Monte Carlo 2019 and other stuff to your nameplate if you want.

Depends on whether you've been to the local indie VW/Skoda already and have been satisfied with their work and/or you want to go to the indie VW/Skoda in the future with other work. £15 isn't a lot to build a relationship and help out local company that might not be there in the future for the losses of £15 less for simple works. Swings and roundabouts, £15 more on one job a bucket load of hassle less on other jobs. Some people at Kwikfit could be good or very good and some people and local indie VW/Skoda not so good or stereotypical motor trade treat customer like something they trod in. I'm sure you have enough experience to know even the very best let alone the far-from-best can make ****-ups on even the simplest of jobs, perhaps disturb or break something else whilst doing the work, some will sort it, even own up to it, some will keep quiet and ignore it or bodge it.

Hi Raph, welcome. Is the rear passenger door actually staying open or just reporting as open? Just thinking generally, if it is staying open then check the lock and catch for anything stuck in or on them that shouldn't be there. Check child lock is fully on or off. I'd a spray of GT85 (a penetrating/releasing fluid, lubricant, OK on electric contacts, PTFE, better than WD-40 Multi-Use) to lubricate the lock and child lock on that door and work in with a series of repeated locking and unlocking and shutting and opening (might as well spray the hinges at the same time). It of course could be other, like electric/computer connection or wires which might need visual inspections cleaning or repairs or plugging in an appropriate level scan tool to help diagnosis. Is your car a Fabia Mk2 trim level 3 or a Fabia Mk3 (2015-2021), more information can help answer future questions you might have and you can include this information in your name plate, as with mine as an example. -

Perhaps they wanted to hide that there was (ETA: not) not any service history (or they hadn't yet made it up). Did you get any service history later on which went back to when the car was new?

@Moorwen you might be better starting a new thread of your own, certainly check the state of charge of the battery (a full battery is about 12.7V) and check the battery and main body earth connectors are all secure. If the car battery is in a low state of charge you might need to use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to fully recharge the battery as just driving the car as you usually do might not be enough to fully recharge the battery. The fault might also be other, plugging in a scan tool would help to see what it shows, a battery in a low state of charge can throw up all sorts of error codes and warnings and so can bad connections or other faults. Checking the connections to the car battery and body earth are secure is quick, easy and free and if the battery state of charge is low fully charging the car battery will do no harm and may help.

@Carlston, you're shooting the messenger. If anyone doesn't want to possibly argue the toss about the insurance at the time of a claim then you need to be sure you have complied with the contract you've agreed to, if you're not sure about anything then you need to check, preferably before taking on the contract. I think whoever Loz spoke to about the insurance has it wrong, depending on his contract I think the worse is an admin fee to add the details to the contract. Different companies assess different risks differently but luckily it's very big market so if one provider doesn't do what you want you can look around for another, how much time and lifeforce you have to do this hunting might dictate what you find. Unfortunately it's always been that those that act responsibly pay for those they do not and this would be with (not meaning Loz here) some who modify their car so they don't go as well as design, or even go better so increase risk. I'd be contacting the company again and speaking to someone else or the issue could be referred internally or externally.

@Warrior193 I was to but it was a very limited photo and perhaps it shows the water after it comes out from the inside the plastic trim. Because of all the electrics and electronics on cars now the wires and connectors as so small it doesn't take much to fill them or cause resistance now. I remember decades back at a show and Jag or one of their suppliers had a display stand and hearing about the weight of the wiring then on an XJ and something (forget what) they were looking at to drastically reduce the weight of the wiring, I bet my wife's 2015 Fabia has more ( but thinner) wiring and certainly more connectors than that large luxury XJ of that time. Even the most modern cars are basically very ancient technologies, large car manufacturers have always dragged their feet on progress to keep profits and boardroom remunerations high.

Loz, I just thought (yes my thinking is that slow) if you're gonna end an existing insurance there could be costs to that, check your policy, and there might be an admin fee and you might not get the premium refund of the "unused" policy you expect, again check your policy, as it catches out many that don't know (or those with an over simplistic view on the matter).

Loz, sorry but you've had a perfect example, premium costs are lower but training and experience have been previously sacrificed. If you think you can or want to spare the lifeforce, I think you could "escalate" your case as the person or people that you dealt with don't fully understand the situation, you'd probably need to go above "the supervisor" or "manager" level to get the understanding you need and that's not the fault of the people you've been dealing with or the "supervisors" or "managers" . You've found how awkward things can be and this is just at application stage so you can imagine possibly snags at report, claim, repair and pay out stages. My wife paid about 25% above the lowest insurance quotes recently at her renewal (still slightly below the renewal premium and more cover than her previous provider) as we want an insurer that is good with dealing with claims and repairs and not just a cheap premium and policy. I learnt this three decades back, you only want cheap premiums and policy if you never claim on it, otherwise you want a good policy at a reasonable premium.

If the car varies from as factory suppled as regard wheels and tyres in theory the insurers want to know even Dealer or factory items options, even if on the car when purchased s/h. Fitting winter tyres is a different matter and your personal recent experience with the loss assessor is good, get particularly an engineer type they can sometimes be different in my personal experience, or on the other side you can get someone that accepts any information you're able to give them to save them time as they're so overworked and underpaid, might also depend on who's in what mood they're in at the time. Sorting out any insurance is rarely fun so anything that might cause a snag is best avoided as Sod's Law it crops up when least appreciated. I'm sure any sensible insure person would be pleased that Loz is fitting more sensible wheels and tyres and if contacted might even say it's fine and they didn't need contacting about it but there are so many variations and it depends on what the application and policy asks for. Some people think the contracts are as they believe they should be or have heard down the pub or on t'web rather than what's actually in the contract and generally accepted, one common example is someone has an accident or damage and reports it but doesn't claim so they think this shouldn't have any effect on next year's premium or that they don't need to report the accident or damage and as for what refund some expect from closing the policy early. I'm not the insurance police and looking for petty point scoring, quick phone call or email should sort stuff like this easily or as I suggested ask the professionals via the link I put earlier - or ignore me, I won't feel slighted. 😄

Thanks for reporting back. Blimey bit of a water running in there then, you certainly want to sort out the drains ASAP, check how many drain points there are and their locations, sorry I don't know. After cleaning to help keep water and moisture out you could use something like Contralube 770 to protect the connectors internally, a sachet lasts a long time and a tube much longer. - PDS-Contralube_770.pdf ETA: Use as required but no point putting in too much to connectors so that too much squeezes out when you put the connectors together.

True but you don't want to be arguing about what is an insignificant factor, even things written in tablets of stone are open to interpretation. If the wheels and tyres are stock to that model I can't see how it'd cause issue. Having dealt with insurance companies over decades I know some things can be or become quite fluid and that was in the days you could actually get to talk to a real person that isn't just a contract call-centre or computer program. If going through a broker it can often be easier. It should just be a matter of informing the insurer, hopefully no admin charge but that might depend on how cheap your policy is. You could get a free professional opinion and perhaps advice on this site from one or two insurers in the Insurance & Legal Issues section. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/247-insurance-legal-issues/