Former

I'll be in trouble for thread drift next, better than snow drift though. I can't take too much heat and decades back I was in Scotland hoping to avoid too much heat, Dingwall way at that time IIRC and it was 80+°C, too hot for me and negating the reason for the mileage and petrol a bit but still had a great time as it was a one-off extra hot day. I live about 3 miles from Pitsford (school) weather station, and at one time we had another weather less than half-mile away, but we seem to often be a degree warm here but I've no real equipment to back this up let alone to certified standards. My shed is single brick and concrete floor it feels colder in winter but the wooden shed is like a sauna in summer.

Well the 0°C might be a typo or other error or just being cautious. Some electronics seem to dislike the cold more than others. My 20+ year old Carcoon (Accumate) was stored in the shed and one time when we had minus double digits (which is rare here) it had to warm up before it would operate, mind the shed always seems colder inside than it is outside. One of the reason I got my new "smart" charger was because it had it worked down to minus 20°C, and up to plus 40°C, we had +40.2°C here last summer, but I see others go to plus 50°C.

Must be the oil, couldn't be the German engineering quality oil specification or the engines. 🙃

Sorry I forgot that, thanks for putting me right, I was thinking more of my classics (I see I did put / sensible so wasn't totally off with the fairies but you make a good point to subject).

😄 Oh yeah, I've missed a bit, forgot it once and repeated the mistake since, that's why I have to use hyperlinks, videos and photos so often. I don't mind you taking the **** out of my mistake but I'd sooner you didn't start or join in on a plie on against me, please, pretty please. You have made your point, thank you, and I've accepted it.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No problem, glad it worked. A lesson there, read the manual and refer to it when needed - but I'm not even an expert in that as I've found stuff in the manual I've either not read, missed, mi-read, misunderstood or often forgot. Another tip is to change the fob battery before it gets too low, and more importantly to not let your car battery get too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the car battery can still be too low for the car's computers and their programs will throw up all sorts of issues even before you get any warning lights or messages. And just driving and using the car often isn't enough to fully recharge the car battery and could even be further discharging the battery. Many owners are now discovering or rediscovering the benefit of preventative use of an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) and this I expect to apply even more to the newer models, Even in the latest digital versions of the Owner's Manual there's information on the battery and charging it. Good luck.

cado, sorry I've not posted to help with your main subject but I really can't help you with your dilemma as I've rarely found garages that can be trusted and have had ****-poor work from respected and recommended garages on (much) more than one occasion. Yes but I was following on from someone else. 😄 - - - 😄 And the tangent lead to you getting the VW oil spec number, this from a 2015 Yeti Owner's Manual. - And then we got on to oil beliefs which I will chip in on, as I have for decades on oil beliefs. A good oil is a good oil, be it, mineral, (marketing) 'semi-synthetic' (marketing) 'synthetic' or synthetic. Assuming the VW engineers have specified the (correct) oil for many reasons you can stick with that as there's so much variety of choice with its availability. Unless you're very lucky the workshop will do a not so thorough quick cold drain and refill, but the thoroughness of the oil change is important as interval / regularity. I like your idea of the first workshop oil change as a running flush but I'd do it sooner, depending on use and mileage, perhaps do the oil & filter change at 3 months later, so in warmer weather for convenience, 6 months at the latest, or after 500 or 1,000 miles. When I do oil changes (engine, gearbox, rear axle) I get the oil as hot as possible, leave to drain for as long as possible / sensible, at the very end of the drain tip a small amount of fresh warmed (solar gain often) oil in the filler hole and let in drain out fully as a sort of mini-flush. I'd change the oil every 12-months even if I'd not done 6 or 7K-miles, short journeys, especially where the oil doesn't fully warm, get the oil more contaminated. Just because I like to support the country when I can I would buy the oil from an English blender and as I've had good service and products from them I get Millers Oils. I'd go with 5w30 for short journeys. But they do a 5w40 if you want. Both cover toot's VW502 00 and your VW 502 00/ 505 00 and ACEA C3 (in one oil!, well two, not looked at the others). Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-c3-5w30/ Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w40 - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-c3-5w40/ They also do a choice of ten other engine oils suitable for use too.

@toot thanks, as you know I very often quote and post images from various Skoda Owner's Manuals, I was thinking of something different but don't want to get into a debate or upset any VW or VWSkoda loyal and faithful.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The AA0725 4A Intelligent Car Battery Charger is obviously from before the time they added "and Maintainer" though it does this. A very good idea to have this given your car use. Suitable more for garage than outdoor use perhaps as it's "Operating ambient temperature" is "0°C ~ 40°C". Perhaps it's just me and I am truly not an expert, but depending on the car's use and on it's parked up conditions, personally once a month or two I'd not connect the charger for up to a week or two and let the battery drop to about 12.4V so that the battery gets some cycling discharge / charging. AA0725 4A Intelligent Car Battery Charger Manual pdf. - aa_4a.pdf

And the car's 'Driver's Handbook' told you so much more. 🙂 (and no VW excluding info on oils and coolant). From my last car, but that was from when cars were so much simpler, one page for the relevant wiring diagram, the whole book wouldn't be big enough now. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good call. Do bear in mind the trickle charger will take a long time to fully recharge the battery, especially if the battery is still connected, and if the weather is cold. Depending on how low the battery is it could take a good overnight or 24+ hours. If you have start/stop car and leave the battery connected to the car remember to connect the negative of the charger to the engine earth point so that the computer knows the battery is being charged and will respond to this quicker. If you have a battery with the 'magic eye' remember you need to tap on the battery before looking at what it reads, before and after charging. If you disconnect the battery before doing so make sure the electric windows are fully closed. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: A battery in a low state of charge can cause all sorts of unexpected issues even before warning lights or messages are given. It might be other things but I'd start with checking the car battery voltage and that the battery posts clamps are both secure and clean and the earth body connection is clean and secure. I'd even disconnect the battery and with it disconnected [ carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] turn the ignition on and press and hold the brake pedal down for about a count of ten to get the brakes lights on if the battery wasn't disconnected, as a "turnin' it off 'n' on agen" sort of reset, switch ignition off and remove key before reconnecting battery. Also consult Owner's Manual before to check what might need resetting after battery disconnection. With the car battery disconnected I'd take the opportunity to fully recharge the battery. It's very easy to check and/or fully recharge the car battery, even if the battery being low isn't the cause having the battery in a good state of charge is very useful when you have electrical or starting issues and a battery in low state of charge can hinder or even prevent diagnosis or resolution of electrical (including computers) and starting issues. A battery in a low state of charge can cause all sorts of unexpected issues even before warning lights or messages are given. It's your car and your issue you decide how you want to go on. It'd please some if you could report that you fully recharged the battery with an appropriate charger (and maintainer) and it didn't sort this issue (and possibly prevent further issues). A recharge with with a 4-amp charger would be better than 6-amp and 2-amp better than 4-amp but any might take a good while depending on how low your battery is, hours, overnight, a day or more but time and patience will be rewarded with a better recharge. Failing all that plug in a higher level scan tool search for error codes and do a air-con reset - be a waste of time if the car battery is low of course. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Rule 1, of course, RtFM. 😄 I almost put a link to the Owner's Manual but decided not to that time. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Conal, have a read your Owner's Manual for 'Disconnect/reconnect and change' of the car battery, if you keep the windows up before disconnecting the existing battery you'll only need to reset the time of day clock. As has been put, personally I'd fully charge the new battery with an appropriate battery charger before fitting to the car. If you have access to a suitable scanner then 'coding' the new battery and clearing any error codes the existing battery has caused means you start with a clean slate sooner but if not the like-for-like new battery swap and a little bit of driving will sort things anyway. Check any info instructions that come in the Tayna packaging.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Check your car battery's voltage at the battery posts, without the engine running, a couple of hours after the car has been parked up, if it's much below about 12.3V then fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) a lower amperage charger will take longer but do better, 4-amps over 6 and 2-amps over 4 but the recharging could take overnight, a day, or more, time and patience will be rewarded. Your battery charge can still be too low for the computers even if your car starts and the lights seem fine and often just driving the car won't charge the battery enough let alone fully and might even drain the battery more, with a full recharge with an appropriate charger (and maintainer) you can be more certain.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You could first have a look at the Owner's Manual. If you read the Owner's Manual you'll know more about using your particular model than most other owners and many at garages and Dealerships. Digital version of 'Owner's Manual' from here, VIN or (part) year of manufacture to get the correct one. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you pressing or holding the button? The instruction is different from how it used to be, now it has to "hold" the button. Digital version of 'Owner's Manual' from here, VIN or (part) year of manufacture to get the correct one. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you can claim on warranty then do that, a new EFB replacement will still be good. The next battery should last (a lot) longer because you will have the knowledge to look after it more (without much effort) and the next battery you can give a much better early life to which will extended its overall life and performance during its life. When the battery is allowed to go too low it never fully recovers and the more often it goes too low the shorter its life and performance. Just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it doesn't mean that the battery isn't too low which will upset the computers and cause all sorts of unexpected issues even before any warning lights or messages. Just driving the car often won't recharge the battery fully or enough and may actually reduce the charge depending on the journey and electric consumption. The answer can often be to recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger (& maintainer) and prevention is better than cure, recharge before the battery gets too low. You could probably get more life out of your existing battery but if you can get a new battery under warranty that would be better as possibly (probably?) your car's battery was left to deteriorate when it was new and has never fully recovered from that. A 2019 car I'd guess is full of marvellous gadgets which are electric hungry and if they only use a little if it's over a long time the consumption can be high. Just one example, and with a warning, from a 2015 Fabia Owner's Manual below, I'd imagine there's a lot more info and advice and warnings in a copy of the 2019 Scala Owner's Manual. If you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your model than many long term owners. Link to PDF copies of the Owner's Manual, using VIN or manufacture part year. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Link to Recalls (VW might have admitted to) perhaps there might be one on batteries (there was for my wife's 2015 Fabia). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've just had a thought (a rare event) when you press the remote's middle button (with car/boot symbol) this unlocks the boot but if you press and hold that button it unlocks and opens the hatch door, depending on which of the two you are doing this could help perhaps with your diagnosis by trying the other (if you've not already done so). The following excerpts from the Owner's Manual ("Operating Instructions") from my wife's car. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you fitted the new switch you have some tools at least, plus your senses, eyes, ears, nose, if the diagnostic tool is a good scanner that'd be better than just an error code reader but with either it'd be worth plugging them in to see what can be found. Only last week my neighbour couldn't open the boot of the car and that was just a bag handle trapped between the latch catch, soon sorted with a visual investigation and (feeble) muscle power.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. So, if I've understood, the problem is with unlocking rather than opening the boot. Could be mechanical, electrical or computer so usual tools plus multimeter and diagnostic scan tool - what have you looked at and done other than replacing the switch? What locking setting do you have through the Infotainment menu? Hatch or estate? Trim level (S, SE, SE-L(?), other)?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Sorry I'm lost with what you've put. Do you mean that when you press the (bottom) unlock button on the remote the doors all unlock but not the boot? Do you mean you have to press the middle button (with car/boot symbol) on the remote to open the boot? Have you had the car from new so know if any settings have been altered with a scan tool? What tests did you do to lead you to change the switch?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Shame as you put in the effort and got so far. Zooming in on the photos the female socket looks to be without any crud at least (getting that disconnected would be a struggle for me. From the photos it's difficult to know if a torx screwdriver or t-bar or Allen key would get to the switch screw best from above or underneath. Did you have to reset anything other than the time of day after removing the battery? I'd pre-spray the switch and screw with GT85 (better than WD-40 Multi-Use) to help easy removal and also use the GT85 to flush and clean the connector plug and socket after visual inspection. - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ The garage might plug in the scan tool to find the fault, let us know how you get on, it'd be a bit disappointing if the switch only lasted 7 years.

I wouldn't know, a separate thread for that might be better, a good visual inspection may be all that's required for belts but check with your model and engine type perhaps the belts are OK but tensioners or pump may need checking on your model. Warrior193 beat me to it, as well as engine air filter I'd also change the cabin filter as it might be holding damp (water?) which will affect the rest of the cabin and smell, at best. It depends on if and how often the engine has been started and car moved at anytime (not that just starting the engine is good) and where it was parked/stored over the three years as to how much might need doing, my wife's car is used almost everyday but being parked outside it has moss on the window drop seals and if always parked pointing the same way more rust on one side than the other.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Jon, check to see if the wiring and bulb holder goes to the RHS and if it does try just putting a bulb in. Cars used to have two reversing lights and two rear fog lights I think Mercs were the first lot I can remember seeing with the lenses both sides but light to only one side, can't remember if the wiring and bulb holder(s) are there though I can't think why if the wiring and holder are on both sides that you'd need programing but who knows with VW's computer programs. The rear lights are a fiddling and farting about job and the wire tails are just short enough to give you hope but mess you around.