Former

Can't you input the data manually (or wotever the correct word is) as you can with VCDS and I presume (always dangerous) other, as varooom explains, for VCDS as an example. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf If it stopped when battery wasn't 'coded' perhaps it might start again when your present battery is 'coded' correctly but of course it might have been just a coincidence that it stopped operating at that time or something in the programming of Carista or VW so you would need a scan tool with the capability to deal with this specific item. I don't know, is Carista one of the 1-click coding machines that @Gizmo says can "also change things that are totally unnecessary and WILL cause you a world of pain when something totally unconnected now no longer works!" ? Having learnt to drive in the 1970s I don't expect to be able to press one button to sort things, I prepare the car to drive it before I even get into the car let alone turn the ignition or engine on, I don't expect a button(s) in the car to do everything for me (as some modern drivers seem to believe), same with diagnostic tools, I expect you're the same. Have you checked the 'Owner's Manual' (if it's in there) about the solar panel in the sunroof not driving the interior cooling fan or opening a thread about it not working as it could be a totally separate issue to the battery non-'coding'.

Totally agree, you need to do your research and decide to what level and depth you will want to go to interfere with things. We are know the joys or otherwise of computer programs, not even the great VAG always get the stuff right, first few attempts, I think Ross Tech have updates, any machine you'd want to keep up to date in the hope the latest updates sort things previously not sorted. The Yanks have decades of experience but I expect the Chinese were 'given' the programs from VAG and some possibly improved on them others shoddy and don't care as is the way with the Chinese 'borrowing' and manufacturing. As I put it depends on the level and width of what you want to do. As always buyer beware, if you want security go with what's considered best at the time. ETA: the machines, including VCDS, can be use to see information for diagnostics, without necessarily interfering with anything, bit like look but don't touch, other than perhaps clear DTCs.

Depends how much fiddling about with the factory settings on the car you want to do but there are alternatives to VCDS which are much better presented and much easier to use without having to learn the built up legacy system - unless that's your sort of thing, made it more exclusive and rewarding. There's a whole very wide range of scan tools that can cover VW products (and much, much more) with a wide variety of what you get on the machine and want contracted with them, also offering help, updates and even community. For deepest widest range of fiddling with just VWs, if that's your thing, then probably the VCDS is the most cost effective otherwise just look at the scan tools (or code readers if that's all you're after), obviously being a tiny island the costs in the UK are higher than elsewhere but they don't get the very interesting weather we do. I'll get me coat . . .

No photo just a small, er, is it icon, of of a photo and massive route stream of a hyperlink, 12 wide lines deep on my monitor. I've no idea with "smart" phones or devices do but I just drag or choose files... to attach (and sometimes Insert into the post) photos from PC file, that seem to put it to this site. HTH. - . -

It can depend on how much powder is used and how well it is mixed as to how well it is dissolved. I do not suppose it really matters but I prefer to keep with the same coolant all the time and not mix previous and future different ones, same if using any additive. I've seem gloopy mixed coloured messes come out of "classic" (over-priced and over valued old) cars' cooling/heating systems, I do not know why the mixing of similar coolants should do this other than the coolants used were not similar but these are usually not from cars that have regular changes of coolant and/or thorough flushing and/or cleaning of the cooling/heating systems.

I'd go Tesco, and drive as quick as I could (which isn't law-breaking fast) before the fuel is empty in the car's tank, the nearer to empty the quicker you need to drive to the next Tescos, Shell, Esso refill. The number of times I had to explain this to my wife when she pointed out the car was low on petrol, below half-tank, and she never understood, To be fair a full tank was less than 6 gallons, all the more reason to get to the refills quicker.

If I'm driving it's silence, passenger perhaps Radio 4, if my wife is driving and I'm not there it'll be la-la music all the time. Quite a few of my vehicles didn't have a radio or it wasn't worth turning it on. I can't stand getting into someone's car and the radio or music is never off but if I'm not paying for the fuel I put up with it or if I know them ask if they want to turn it off.

My wife is much better than me at identifying noises (from all the faults we had repeat on the cars) and locating the noises but she's not stupid and won't sit in a car just listen for noises and very wisely always disappeared promptly if I was ever doing anything other than driving a car. Anyway you're old enough to know what to do about car noises - turn up the stereo radio. 😄 Are you sure it's no your hearing aid rattling in your ear. ETA: I was thinking of your son-in-law for the sound equipment.

David, hi, welcome. Your link doesn't work for me but If I understand correctly you want to remove the whole mirror unit. I've never done it but yes it'll be door card off and unplug electrics. I've never taken the door card off but I think I've seen it written that it's not difficult (famous last words) and there may be more info on that. Personally I've always found any job involving removing and putting back bits of plastics and perhaps cardboard or more plastic to be much more awkward and time consuming than many blasé reports or instructions make out but anything to do with cars that's not driving I start with the "wrong" attitude as I loathe doing anything with cars other than driving them and that's only to get me from A to B now. If you get the door car off I think (don't know) the mirror should be easy (unless like me you find little plastic wire connectors an absolute fiddle and fart to separate). The vandal should be made to do this job for you properly and I think that would be a good punishment, as well as pay for any new parts of course.

Has your relative got one of those switchable multi-channel (4 or 6) electronic stethoscope sound detecting devices where you attach the microphone sensors to various places and switch between the channels to see where the origin of the noise might be. Or mechanic's stethoscope, or length of hose pipe, I've use the vacuum cleaner hose before (I didn't find it using that as I didn't try the one place I thought it wasn't as I'd already checked, it was of course there). Up to you, or the boss, or a mate if you're the driver or listener.

Sorry, I am confused - is the right light unit new and different from the left which is original(?). I have no idea what the difference is with Monte Carlo lights without looking it up or if the regulations for rear lights in Israel are different to the UK. Sorry but it is beyond me, even if you put up high definition photos of each side I would not see or know or be able to tell if the wiring and soldering is correct and good, if you are sure you have done that all correctly then I am at a loss - unless, if you have one side LED and the other side not perhaps that could confuse the computer but I would have thought a warning would show or error code on scan tool. If you have fitted cheaply made or faulty LED or diode I do not know how that would effect the lighting. Sorry but you need someone with more knowledge than me, luckily that is many people.

James, are you connecting to another spare battery that is in (very) good state of charge, or to another reliable car, using good quality (quick enough) leads with all four the clips connected well and securely? After you get the car started, or if not, read your Owner's Manual and fully recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if the drain was low and slow it'd be best if the recharge is too. Months ago a neighbour couldn't get his girlfriend's car jumped started using a good spare battery (I know it is because I charged it) but also some awful taped extended double jump lead sets (he used to be in the motor trade) I borrowed another neighbour's good quality jump leads and as my wife had just arrived back we used her 2015 Fabia as the power source.

I'd no idea they done such things, "oxygen thieves" seem to get given a lot. 😁 On looking up if they still do it I too found the tyre repair page and scrolling to the bottom found the repair is "from just £27.50 per tyre". I once had tyre valves fitted that one showed cracks within a matter of months, as usual I was the only person that had had such a thing though later I think one other person might have said they'd had the same, mine were at peak time of ****-poor rubbish rubber parts. A couple of years before I had three different lots, from three different motors factors in different counties, of 1/4" petrol hose leak within days or weeks of being fitted, went to modern Goodyear 6mm and no problems. Other than one remould in 1979 I've never had any bad tyres, I went out of my way to avoid them.

Perhaps I should have put they're very reluctant, by coincidence I was with a chap that owners a local Hi-Q tyre place just before Gerrycan posted I could have asked and got the exact details had I known. Perhaps KwikFit see plugging a tyre as a good option against replacing it. I thought I'd heard tyre fitter(s) say they'd not plug a tyre but my memory's not the best and whether that was their personal choice, company policy or just to sell a new tyre I'd not know. That is very bad - they should have at least quoted and tried to sell you a new tyre, or two or four, no matter what the circumstances. 🤣

Right thank you for the replies. So are these are LED lights then and were they LED lights before? Could it be the soldering, are the boards handed to the light units (mirror opposite one side to the other)? If it was me I would take out both units and compare the boards and soldering with with each other and at the same time check all wire connections and depending on the type check that the bulbs are fitted correctly. You've got one side correct so you can go from that perhaps. With things like parts and lights there are various quality of manufacture with some better and more reliable than others. I do not know if you have to use a low powered soldering iron with LED diodes or not but you might(?) for circuit boards.

If you always believe VW (or VWSkoda for pedantics) then previously they recommended not to use fuel additives but of course they may have changed their minds, as they often do about oils and coolant, or the Dealer has, now the cars have Gasoline Particulate Filters. Personally as I put I'd still go for the use of one of the petrols with higher cleaner additive packages for a couple of tankfulls and go for some more entertaining blowout runs rather than just always using the car as a mobile entertainment centre, or just follow the instructions as if you were cleaning the filter (even though the light isn't on, prevention better than cure sort of thing). -

Probably more drinks than you realise may start or contain powder before they become or you made into a liquid drink. Have you never had milkshakes, coffee(?), coco drinks, gravy made up from powder. The "glitters" I got out of the metal expansion tank by using a cheap suction pump were just that, I rubbed them between my fingertips and couldn't feel any grit type feel so don't think they contained any sort of corrosion. My coolant was changed far more frequently than I would want as I every time something was done on the engine or cooling/heating system fresh coolant was put back in. No doubt there would be some corrosion but all the emptying would get much of any loose stuff out. Bar's Leak (now Stop Leak) or Radweld (liquid) products used to be the go to for radiator leaks or cleaning over here. I see Bar's Leak now sell a powdered form but years ago they sold it in a tube in a dried tobacco type form known to some as "dog's turd". Bar's Leak is claimed not to clog a system and I was told that when the local race and road engine builders, Cosworth, were an independent company they would recommend using Bars Leak as a conditioner (in an engine and system without leaks), presumably (?) this is now Bar's Leaks Original(?). To empty the system on my car meant disconnecting a small bottom radiator hose which meant the coolant partly ran over an oily chassis frame so I never bother checking the collected coolant as there would also be all the road and other debris off the chassis frame. Like your car mine lived permanently outside and the neighbour across the road had been rebuilding his property for about 5 years and not the tidiest builder.

So what exactly have you done? Have you swopped or replaced both rear light (lenses) units (to Monte Carlo style)? Did you keep the original wire connectors, bulb holders and bulbs or replaced the connectors, holders and bulbs? I cannot think that replacing standard like for like rear light units would require any 'coding'. Is your model a Spaceback? What is a new backplate? Just for your information, no criticism at all, these are not headlights, headlights are the main lights on the front, these are rear lights (or tail lights).

Are you sure that you have not mixed up the brake with rear side light? Get someone else to press the brake pedal and see if the new side goes dimmer instead of brighter.

Personally I would have the brake fluid changed, brakes are much more important than the engine yet the engine is given priority. Testing is fine but only tells you moisture content at reservoir if the change is done properly it should remove anything else within the whole system. Always reassuring to see very clean brake fluid at a good level in the reservoir - but I'd ask what I get for £69 if it's just a suck out or drain without the scanner ABS block I might not bother. I personally would change the air filter at 2 years as cleaner into and through the engine and out of the exhaust the better for the engine, think of the engine as little more than a big airpump spinning wheels to move you around. You could do that yourself and look at the cabin filter and consider changing. As they effect the braking, steering and suspension tyres are again more important than the engine but the "free visual health check" should highlight anything serious (or not), same for brakes. The services are little more than engine oil and filter changes - and a search for more chargeable work. Rather than a fuel treatment I would sooner put the additional cost to putting in and using a tankful of V-Power or other fuel with greater cleaning additive package before the service and another tankful after the service, same for MoT time, particularly if it's a diesel machine. Petrol. - petrol.pdf You can edit your bio/nameplate/thingy if you want to to alter year and include more info about your model.

Wouldn't it be the same rattle but the clamping makes it more concentrated or transferred to the vicinity of the speedo binnacle. What about the seat squeak(?) (or if you're old like me it might be your body, bones or joints). You're going to have the time of your life with the squeak/creak/rattle from under the front of your car. I applaud your efforts as I can't stand these sort of noises but if things are too quiet I just hear all the different noises at different times from the engine bay as I guess the computer does its good (and evil) stuff, then there's the possible exhaust shield rattle and the intermittent seatbelt/seta squeaks from driver's or front passenger seats and other intermittent stuff. Once you've sorted yours I'll bring ours around to you. 🙂 Sorry, perhaps someone that actually knows will be along later.

Yes I think so, inside side of wheel though I think.

I might be wrong but I think here (generally?) the tyre places won't plug a tyre. (ETA: unless pushed to do so, based on toot's later post here). Plenty of "trades" men and flat bed lorries losing loose nails and screws over here but I think often a good depth of tread can save a serious puncture, no doubt dependant on quantity and quality of your luck. Not to thread drift but if you've been out of the UK for a while you might be surprised at the new builds in certain areas and how they're packed in, many with a garage you can't fit a modern oversized vehicle in so the two or more vehicles are parked on the pavements (walkways). Bungalows are at a premium because of the aging population. Glad you're sorted with the tyre, all's well that ends well as they say.

If you dare you could try disconnecting any connectors to see if the connections are secure and clean inside, it also allows checking the underside of the wires, going from the injectors as far back as you can. Or you could see if someone from this site is able to help you with plugging in a VCDS or similar scan device to see if more diagnostics information is available. - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&msa=0&ll=21.259901462991746%2C83.39240985000004&z=2

Listening to it a second time it doesn't seem as bad but my wife's 2015 with only 2,000 miles more on it does not sound like that as far as I know. Perhaps it is the audio recording or position of microphone that gives the sound but as a new car to me I would return it to the Dealer to sort. There are so many possibilities, the engines are certainly not the sweetest sounding and as I put I hear all sorts of noises as I guess the computer is doing its stuff. I would try with the engine warmed at idle to see if there are any differences to the sound when getting a glamorous assistant to give the engine various revs, at idle turn the aircon and blower on at the various settings, aircon off loads of electric items on. One noise might cover another but it is free and easy to try, any significant difference or increase in rattle or whine I would record on the phone for the Dealer and tell him what was done to get that difference. For service history does it include changes of air filter, spark plugs, air-con, car battery, brake fluid, tyres, brakes? Any Recall Actions? - Škoda Recall Campaigns. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns And in case you need any updates, Update Portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/