Former

I think if you read down the posts in the following thread it covers what you might want to know. If you have hand crank winders at the rear, as with my wife's car, then I know you can't get open/close off the remote key fob because that requires a different bit(s) for the windows control I forget what they might call the pack for this, then you would need to program all in. HTH.

No problem, I'm the King of typos. You might also be better to change your profile to show 2014 rather than 2011 and if you want to perhaps add more details of the car, my profile as an example only. - You might need to use the site's search facility or Google, which will return you to this forum most likely, if I find it I will put a link in this thread.

ETA: the subject of whether Mk2 or Mk3 has also been covered here with details and information, including IIRC photos of Mk2 and shaper lines Mk3.

From your 'Author stats' (arrow top right corner of post). 2014 is probably Mk2 model in UK. Mk3 models have NJ in their VIN/chassis number, I forget what might be in the Mk2. If it's a Mk3 the subject has previously been covered here quite(-ish) recently with information and details. HTH.

You probably don't need a cold air filter for what you want to achieve, if the person doing the mapping is any good he should be able to advise you. You could also look here and in 'Fabia Projects'. HTH. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/

You might be better looking and/or asking in the Octavia Mk4 forum. HTH. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/396-skoda-octavia-mk4-2020/

If your car is from 2011 then you really want the Mk2 forum. I'm not sure you can have what you want but the Mk2 owners will know better.

As with UK German marques are undeservedly popular and take advantage of this relying on out of date reputations, I'm sure things will change in the next x-number of years whether VW, BMW and Merc can pull it round by then we'll have to see, probably just heritage brand names for other owners. Good luck with your issue.

Very freely available in many posts on Briskoda (this) website somebody put it up and I've reposted it a good number of times. Unfortunately I saw it after and not before my wife had paid out £429 for the replacement from the conning robbing b*stards at out local VWŠkoda Dealership. The Technicial Bulletins (or whatever they call them) are well hidden but can be very good to get your hands on with secret (non) Recalls and knowing issues but still conning customers to pay for the repair. Good luck. It's a pity people in the UK didn't get together to get the money back on the belt and other scans but that's how it is here which is why the likes of VW know they can get away with stuff here they can't elsewhere.

I used cruise control in the 1980s or 90s and didn't like it so have never used it since. With modern cars though with all their computers and sensors (to go wrong) then (non-active perhaps) cruise control would save fuel if used on a motorway that's not too busy and without too many or steep rises.

UK related, previous VWŠkoda UK robbing b*stards con about the general timing belt needing changing in the UK at 50,000 miles or 5 years when elsewhere it was 180,000 miles or 15 years. "The new advice is to use the intervals recommended in ElsaPro for all engines. For some variants, this means that there is no service interval at all, with 'fitted for life' items that can be considered as 15 years or '18O,000 miles. Because of the disparity in intervals, you must check the relevant literature for each case and advise the customer accordingly." CamBeltchangechange.pdf

20.3km/L = 57.3 (UK) miles per gallon (mpg) 18 km/L = 50.8 (UK) miles per gallon (mpg) If you want to just get a higher mpg figure then there are many things you might be able to do how much better this will be for you and the car overall is another matter. Then are you comparing apples with oranges, is the car and driver being used and driven almost exactly the same as you, same engine, gearbox, fuel, carrying the same, over the same type of roads and environment, same air-son and electrical use, cars equally serviced, maintained and repaired, are the same methods and accuracy of measurements being used. There are loads of threads and posts on here and elsewhere, apps and dedicated sites(?) about fuel consumption so lots of information. To me 50.8 mpg for my wife's 2015, 1.2, 90hp, 5-speed sounds good for her use but I'm sure many others would find it on the lower side. It depends on how long you want to keep the car but always driving very steadily and in a way to get more mpg is not good for the engine and the car, the engine needs some occasional blow-out "Italian tune-up" runs otherwise things get clogged up sooner (that will also reduce mpg). Best tuning for the car is timely servicing, maintenance and repairs of the whole car and driving techniques. As you have not owned the car from new are you sure about the car having had full and proper whole car timely servicing and maintenance at least in the more recent times. In the Fabia Mk3 forum there are lots of posts showing servicing and maintenance information, as cars get older some/most owners carry out less servicing and maintenance so the car's efficiency drops even lower even allowing for aging, this does not need to be so but generally is. An older car in different hands might be better running than when younger. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the feedback, well done on getting things underway. It would be interesting to hear the final outcome. That is the difference. I noted this from you 'Author stats' but without this it will be assumed that you are in the UK where the Dealerships are not always as good as they could or should be. Do you not have Japanese manufacturers sold in Finland?

As it may be possible to get different answers from different companies and different people in different companies why don't you ask your insurance company to be sure how they view it? Best done in writing and to someone in that company that knows the policy conditions you have rather than the marketing/renewal side that might guess, or worst a bot, or worst still any AI (total misnomer).

Did you try wiggle test for this area, the 2v and 0.6v might be a wiring/connection issue - but I'm no electrician or diagnostics expert. Checking with say a 21w bulb might give, er, a clearer view of full fat electric getting through the wires and/or connector. Did you disconnect the connectors and look at the connectors, plug and socket, for corrosion and bent pin(s). That me out of ideas. I don't know about 2018 cars without looking it up but for Mot purposes certainly for earlier cars the third brake light isn't required as long as you inform the tester that it has been disconnected.

Hi, welcome. As well as all the other various subjects on Broskoda if you've not already seen it there's a section for Fabias including for Mk3s and advice and information on 2018, 1.0 TSI and 2018 1.0 TSI. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ HTH.

It would be good if there was an option of less than 100% as the battery has had 4-5 years use, whether something like a VCDS would be better for this I don't know.

Hi, welcome. Along with other sections on Briskoda if you've not already seen it there's a Octavia section including a forum for the Mk4s. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ Good luck.

Have you added anything, even thicker washer or higher head bolts or something like that. You could measure the distance between the back of the seat base to the front of whatever's under the rear seat and see if that's the same measurement as other owners (with same seats and perhaps trim level and year of car if there was variations). Mine thinking there is perhaps the seat(s) weren't fitted correctly before you took them out and now are but I have no idea of front to rear movement of these seats as normal. ETA: when you can see the car in the metal (and plastic) you can see sometimes when something isn't same as factory hence photos often being useful now, unless it's an obvious fault I'd not know as I couldn't identify a Felicia seat or its rails if they fell on my head both others can.

The cut away doesn't fascinate me I just noticed it and pointed it out. The breakage was a joke. 😉 😁 Understandably you defend these sort of things but I don't need to and anyway have always pointed out the warts on the cars I've owned, and they had many, but I also give credit where it's due, even to VW products. 😀

I just meant that's where I found the height adjustment for the drivers seat, obviously this didn't relate to your car, or the seat has been changed. Just to see the mechanism and be able to perhaps zoom in and see any faults or jams there. I can't think the seat frame is so close to the floor and you have deep enough carpet pile to restrict or make difficult the seat movement as I've experienced in a display car and my mates when he had it reuopholstered. You've a good suggestion of trying to loosen the bolts and see if that free things up, perhaps there is some sort of twist in the frame(s) or rail(s) or you introduced one. Driver's seat tends to be most worn for obvious reasons. As you put it was fine before so I'm sure it can be again. Good luck.

More thoughts - does your driver's seat have height adjustment, if so this will make a difference? did you look at, refer to, and read the 'Owner's Manual' about seats?

For all I know there might be but I doubt it, I've got very short legs but always move the seat fully back to get out and make it easy to get back in, unless I want to have a bit of fun with the next person. If no one else is about take a photo and zoom in on it, post it up here if yopu can't spot the issue.

Perhaps the reverse bulbs over here were 18w for some and not 21w, or could be either I forget now, but If you need say a 18w bulb and are using a 5w then it will be very dim in comparison. Have you got these stilly smoked finish lenses to look cool and restrict light getting out (great idea for indicators and brake lights). You get that finish free if you own an Aldi or VW diesel. 😁

I don't know the seats so just generalised guessing. You have them both facing the windscreen and not in conference facing. 😁 If you left the four rails bolted to the floor it only leaves the seats so perhaps you didn't locate the seats in the correct slot(s)/position to the sliding parts of the rails.