Former

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it, Škoda Octavia section of site, though there are many other sections. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

What we call lighting up the tree tops.

The light being sent out is very bright and seems to be pointing very high making them an absolute nuisance on the road, you're lucky no one has use a heavy hammer to rectify them. The bulbs don't seem to be suitable for the light unit swap them for bulbs that are suited or better suited. As I put before the following is my trusted supplier and you can contact them for information and advice. Classic Car LEDs. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

If it works well for you carry on with it. You could also look up double clutching or double declutching as you had to do with old cars without synchromesh to first gear. BUT you should not have to do this with a modern car particularly one that's only a couple of years old.

To me the 5500K cool white/blueish bulbs don't look right in older cars and can be more harsh on the eyes at night, I prefer the 3000K warm white/classis/yellowish. W5W bulbs from my preferred LED bulb supplier come up in a range of whites, and yellow, green and red too, would have been T10 in old money (tubular 10mm wide) which you could get in an extra bright 200 lumens LED bulb if you wanted to test your VWŠkoda bulb holders, hopefully they would be better quality than the 2015 ones.

Others will know better than me but I've read or heard that car manufacturers generally don't use cutting-edge chips but older cheaper ones and during covid they had trouble getting chips because they paid so far behind with them that priority was given to those that paid sooner and for higher value more profit chip buyers. IIRC Toyota were getting chips because they paid the chip providers sooner or had more in their stock or both. During covid VWŠkoda downgraded stuff as owners seemed to report. Of course that should all be settled now, and again others would know better than me but IIRC VW got shot of their in-house programmers and had others then found this caused issues / even more issues so after a while employed in-house again. Who knows what programs they have in what models over the years, in my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia when we allow it the stop/start works very well but we don't have DSG or 3-cylinder or stuff that's on a 2023/4/5 car (thank gawd). @fabiamk4man sorry I tried to find the thread/posts on this issue I know are elsewhere but couldn't, I used to be, on and off, pretty good at internet searches but for a while now I'm a lot less successful.

Sounds more like a gear lever mechanism or something in that area, the clicking and what you put previous made me think of something electrical, a contact perhaps. With reverse and firs you need to be sure the revs have dropped and with both sometimes you can be "off cog" so spin the box lift and push clutch pedal but you might also need to add letting the car move very slightly by rolling under its own (not inconsiderable VW) weight. Plenty of videos about cable adjustment for you to see. If they didn't open anything including the gear lever gaiter and console bit then what did they do, not much by sounds of it. They could, if n already done so, look at the gearbox mechanism end in case any of the sound is travelling up the connecting cables. Yes get mechanic out with you but possibly Sod's Law the noises won't be there then but you can always ask what they have done to find the issue and really press for this. it's a new car and they are p1ssing you about, as much as you can don't allow this, keep your cool and be polite but very firm. Let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome, yes you're in the 'Hello' section, there is also an Octavia section that covers the various years and 'Guides' and 'Projects' on the site where you can get lots of information from Octavia owners and others. Good luck. 'Škoda Octavia' section - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

On the dash is the correct gear shown with noises? Sounds like they might have already adjusted the cable but who knows unless they tell you. The gear lever and associated mechanisms are plastic and in other VW boxes the bits under the gear lever console cover can need attention - or perhaps even a foreign object, perhaps tool or other left under there by someone. Another Scala owner recently complain of 6-speed box changing issue but different to this and on 1.0 TSI. The gear change should be smooth there is a fault get them to sort it. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. On the VWŠkoda 'Owner Manual' site with free downloadable pdfs you can enter your car's VIN number which should take you to the correct 'Owner's Manual'. Then some of the diagrams in some of the manuals may have errors. You have put your car as a 2015, I don't know but this might relate to the model year rather than the actual year it was made. A Mk1 and Mk2 look just about different on the outside to distinguish them, the Mk3 has sharper-edge folds in some body panels, particularly noticeable in the Mk3 hatch rear panel. If you have a Mk2 then there will be lots of information and help in that section of the site, if Mk3 then here of course. HTH. Good luck.

Yeah I don't blame you if this is the only issue. I try turn off before I start the engine to get a routine but I don't drive the car often so have difficulty forming the habit. That helps generally, might also delays the next onset of the computer doing as it pleases too. I think that's how VWHAL 9000 wants us. 😄 Later (if I don't forget) I'll have a look at Derek's link and see if anything triggers my memory (I'd would need at least 100% charge for that and I'm not sure if I've ever had that).

As always bear in mind with replacing parts, particularly when possibly not really required, that the existing part might be better, fit better function better, function for longer, than a new made part. At a stage of time rubber in parts could be really, really abysmal, to p1ss-poor if you were lucky, I think much of this has improved (it had to) but whether that is to the former quality of three decades or more back I don't know. Anything to do with the engine is lower down on a priority check and work list, particularly if you're not even driving the car.

You could well be right but it might be a part problem, have a look for the issue in the Mk3 as well as Mk4 Fabia forums and probably in other models made around the same time, I've seen this issue reported before but can't remember the outcome(s). You could see if there are any updates to the computer systems, often solving or patching over one issue to introduce two more. I forget, have you checked for an admitted Recall. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Silent recalls are a different matter, they are the ones they know about but don't want to advertise hoping customers will pay for the work instead, you need to find Technical sheets they keep hidden for those. I would still suggest you check the battery and as you have got an appropriate battery charger maintainer fully recharge the battery to 100% rather than the car's set of about 80% it will do a 15 month old battery good and if the battery is good at 15 months old hopefully it will take the charge well. Age of battery means only so much of course it's use (abuse and neglect) affects its performance and longevity, even a brand new battery potentially can be depleted for various reasons. Smart is only a marketing term, none of these things are smart, they are extremely dumb really only following rules, same for AI and "smart" phones and other devices. It is only recently I have been promoted to a "critical thinker" rather than a Luddite against technologies I and we were using and having problems with decades back. I totally agree and it is correct. They are to help (fiddle) the figures rather than help the engine. I proved to my neighbour that they don't even help with fuel economy as the systems can't (yet?) see the road conditions ahead and make the judgements the driver can (or should). It was and is all part of this. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf As I put have a search I'm sure this thing has come up before but sorry I can't remember the results - and check and recharge the battery, checking it's charging on the car might (or might not) help but at least possibly rule it out. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

You have the information in this thread to check and cross reference against, see below. The standard 15" will be fine as a spare wheel, and it and foam will fit in boot, thank gawd. Do remember to occasionally check it and its pressure and before going away or long journeys at night perhaps. The only real downside is you can't use it in rotation of tyre wear, it sits in the boot unused potentially until you sell the car but that is a price you're prepare to pay for it being available in the boot. Er, different (bl^^dy stupid) bolt, sizes(?). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2007/ Loads of info on here about 2018 (and other years) Fabia Mk3s, good luck.

I'm a big fan of using a damp synthetic chamois outside and in but it does need to be clean for inside use on the windscreen at least. My wife's car got a couple of dehumidifier bags put on the dash soon into the first winter of her ownership IIRC, started with one but that wasn't enough so it got a twin, this was before any (known) leaks. I couldn't believe how bad the condenation was on the front screen and how much effort and how long it took to fully clear to be ablet drive off, not good to have the engine idling so long without driving off. Which reminds me I must check the 7 month old cabin filter has got damp and scuttle drainage as turning the air-con and blower on condensates the windscreen. Obviously you need to check you have nothing damp in the boot or back seats or on the shelf, like clothing or a dog blanket perhaps but if not then if one of the back windows gets condensated more then it might be another VWŠkoda that runs from the Mk1 Fabia on of an internal rear door seal no longer fully sealing and letting water through on to the door shut bottom and when worse onto the rear seat footwell. I suppose if you're unlucky this could happen with both rear doors. But your rear door seal might well be fine (for now at least). I would generally expect more problems from any 2023 car to say a 2016 and earlier cars but if that make and model is already less reliable than others then you're bound to be at a lower point in with a 2023.

Not exactly necessarily, sizes are nominally, the shape and size may vary with make and model of tyre. Was that a bit of sarcasm Mr. AG. 😄 Yes good points, clearance to underside of boot floor has been mentioned as is you need to check these things by putting the wheel in the wheel well, the OP can see your photos so can decide for himself it's not me trying to to accommodate a spare wheel and kit but if it was I'm sure I'd sort something out and I'm sure glenn_btn given all the help that has been provided by yourself and others posting on this thread. Hopefully we'll here the results now the car (should) have arrived.

I don't think it matter with this but be selective with what you tie-wrap or cable-tie to what and how tightly. As a totally non-specific example to your car, many cable-tie HT leads together this may not be good idea with certain engine set ups. And just for the fun of it as I referred to cable-ties and as you may encounter wiring needs on the car.

If you let the state of charge and health get too low for the computers, after stop/start non-function when it should, the computers can make you suffer with all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and unseen error messages and issues - even though your headlights seem bright enough and you have no issues starting the engine (battery has to be very low for that), there are lots of threads and posts on Briskoda about this as it catches out even very experience and long time drivers. One way to test the battery's current state of charge (not health) is to use a multimeter with the probes on the battery terminal posts, as long as possible after the car was last driven or charged, preferably after a good number of hours. Then you could allow say a 0.2 or 0.3 amp drop for the stuff going on with the car's awake computers and other bits. The car's happy with (about 80% of full battery charge) 12.4v or less to allow for regenerative stuff it might or might not give the battery enough or enough of with the car's use. Below VW's figures there are others with slight variances but we're not dealing with exact figures on real world car use. VW Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V

I don't know if the 6-speed has a lot of differences to the 5-speed in my wife's Fabia or just an extra gear thrown in. As I put previously I only have the very limited experience of a VW product 1.0 TSI, 110 with 6 speed manual and that probably had at lower mileage than yours, but possibly plenty of clutch and second gear use but I wouldn't know.

Third and fourth gear should be easiest to engage engine on or off. Once the engine and gearbox warm up the oil in the gearbox is warmer so that helps. In my wife's 1.2 TSI 5-speed manual to me the engine and gearbox are a bit rough and very family car runabout standard which is fair enough when they are working as well as can be expected - and I'm used to BMC/BL cars of the 1960s and 70s cars (until 3 years ago) but I've also had Japanese cars so know better quality. First easy thing to try is the cables, if it is this that's it sorted. There are loads of posts on this on this site for various models, this will give the principles, exact details may vary slightly with different models and engines and gearboxes (you've still not said which gearbox you have or number of forward gears). Have a search, if you can't find anything I can give you a link, to probably a Fabia Mk3.

If the car's 12v battery is getting a bit low the first sign is often the stop/start not working when it should, it can work again shortly after depending on if there's enough electric back to satisfy the system. There are lots of circumstances where the stop/start may not be available - but this time of year don't neglect the state of charge in the battery, even if the lights seem bright enough, and the engine not starting is about the last sign of low battery with a modern car. If you're interested in the stop/start system here's something from VW. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

@glenn_btn if you've not got one or two already I strongly suggest you get two, or at least one, "wheel alignment tool" to go with your spare wheel set and for whenever you might remove or put on a wheel to save your back and make things easier for DIY as the wheels have bl**dy stupid wheel bolts instead of studs and nuts. M14 x 1.5 thread. I got my last one from the following eBayer, a bit more expensive but better than others but the cheaper ones I had were fine. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232330617636

So what size is this, what width measurement? I don't know and don't have the car available to measure to solve this (it's not my car). As my wife's car doesn't have a spare wheel I've never bothered to see how well the road wheel and tyre fit in the spare wheel well, I have rotated or swapped road wells to the spare wheel wheel on some of my neighbours cars without issue but they weren't VWŠkodas.

For any Recalls that they admit to there is the following site, there are also "silent recalls" they don't readily admit to or their Dealerships, see the threads on this site, other than IIRC fuel rail leak there's not anything other than what they call a battery recall (more likely a VW part or programing but I've not seen a technical bulletin about it anywhere, not that I've looked. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns No doubt you're a believer n reading the 'Owner's Manual', in case you don't know should you need or want it there's a free pdf download of it on the website. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models To complete the set, the Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ About your paperwork on your previous car, as I used to run various old cars called "classics" as daily use cars I'm very used to keeping paper service, maintenance and repairs paperwork, and digital copies, plus MoT and print-offs for them and going back a bit tax discs, amazing how some are so impressed with such things when buying a car. I always keep records in reverse chronological order as this is usually most relevant. I've seen cars with lots of paperwork all mixed up with a till receipt for something of no importance many years back but missing a receipt for a major part or work that has clearly been done. I had one car with so much paperwork that I suspect any papers without the registration to that particular car went to another car as I saw the car at a show 18 months later as was told some of the spare parts and most of the two files of paperwork I left in boot weren't there when the owner bought it - the car sold at auction to a dealer that immediately passed it on to another dealer as he could only drive one car back and had bought two. I tried my best to prevent a dealer getting the car but the auction places have the contract, and "associations" as I'll call it. The VWŠkoda Dealership my wife bought her 2015 Fabia Mk3 from was not over trustworthy too, the car was 15 months old with 10k-miles on it and was said to have been used as one of their courtesy car, which it might partly have been but i had other thoughts about it but at the time it was in a spec and colour that was in very limited supply in the UK let alone reasonably locally (next county city). I asked, then insisted, for a print out of its service history and this seemed unusually difficult, I think the car had never been serviced and they were playing the system to get it on. See record. This also brings me to VWŠkoda UK's record, note the error (that another member pointed out to me) which they had no explanation for when I asked, these are stuff put on computer records which should transfer without change. Who done the work, is it a coincidence that the performance has declined. What has declined. Is it one of these Climatronic which might just need a bit of fluff blowing out of a sensor or a system (flaps) reset or the system reacting to different conditions, where the car is parked, the driving conditions, etc.. You could do a search on here and/or start another thread for this. The Climatronic has been discussed on the Fabia Mk4 IIRC, same principles. HTH.

Clips can be good for keeping one bit off another and prevent chaffing, secure the route, reduce vibration, other stuff, letting things wave in the wind isn't always best but often perhaps one missing fixing doesn't matter, all depends. Concours of course is a different matter, can get very anal very quickly. Somewhere there will be a clip sold that will do the job, you might have to buy a packet of a dozen, or 100 or 500 but if from China they'll be so cheap it won't matter about quantity and you have replacement spares (which you might need). If you go to garage or car supplier websites you'll find fixings for the various manufacturers of cars and generally just takes so longer to match up all the options offered against what you need. Only a few years ago you could still get a paper printed colour catalogue posted to you, possibly still can, I don't know. I bet there still might be someone or somewhere in the Czech Republic that has stock of the original but it's a matter of you finding them. If any army used that part then stocks of them can appear decades later with specialists, not sure they'd bother with a plastic clip though. A mate got an out of contract (30+ years) NOS engine, been in his 1960s car for a few years now., the engine had a long production life, British of course, tuned it nicely goes very well.