Former

FYI - that white thing, VW AG 5QA915181C, is the battery management sensor that rules your life with and use of your vehicle. 🙃

No it isn't, that's a part. It may be other fault(s) but often the first sign the 12v battery needs charging is when the stop/start doesn't operate when it should and needs charging up and often just driving the can may not be sufficient. Buying and using an appropriate battery charger maintainer (they can be inexpensive and do a great job) and using it preferably for preventative charging to 100% (car only does about 50%) will help vastly reduce the many issues of a 12v battery in a low state of charge and health that can cause the owner/driver a load of hassle and unnecessary expense. The battery with get better, more reliable service for longer and battery useful life can be extended by many years. Or you can pay a garage to do a quick higher rate recharge of the battery with their battery charger or possibly prematurely replace the battery at a high cost plus 'coding'.

As the, very good, video says seems (the usual modern) flimsy. I always synchronise the remote to the car (details in 'Owner's Manual') after changing a remote(s) battery(ies) and I alternate the use of the remote usually used with the second every 6 months that way it evens out wear of remotes and batteries and the location of the other remote is always known. (ETA: for info 2032 battery is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm deep, 2025 battery is 2.5mm deep)

Just the usual difficulty of pinning down exact and correct part numbers and the confusing information and misinformation in conflicting suppliers databases including very probably VW's. This is why I always put you have check, double check, and cross reference any information you get from any source with other (hopefully) reliable sources and, if you can, compare new part(s) to old and how well or not the new part(s) might fit but also bearing mind the part already fitted may not be correct, or fully correct, even if it is, or appears to be, working. Very annoying but not the end of the world, at least the wrong part didn't leave your car out of action and was soon sorted. I note that your link has it as "Gearbox screw plug, oil pans." - my table show M22 needs a 32mm spanner / socket which seems large for a engine oil sump plug, did the oil change guy use a 32mm socket on your existing engine drain plug or can you try a 32mm socket on the existing engine drain plug yourself or measure the head of the plug in anyway to confirm.

The ones I ordered and got for my wife's Mk3 are Aerotwin for front and Bosch non-aerotwin at rear, been on 9 months now and still fine AFAIK. I don't know what the VWŠkoda rear wiper blade make actually is but it was a slightly better fit to arm than the Bosch non-aerotwin but nothing to worry about and IIRC the Bosch non-aerotwin is a better fit than the Halford's own rear blade.

Be sure to follow the instructions on the coolant flush if it is a cleaner, after flushing it out I find another back-flush (with water) and then flush and drain gets more crud out that just a flush drain but most don't bother to go that far stopping at the first flush drain. On old cars I also remove and clean and do the flushing and back flushing at engine block (drain plug aperture) radiator and heater matrix separately as a first clean of a system that is new to me. All so much easier with a vacuum pump rather than tap water pressure, gravity and lungs power. On an old simple car I once connected up the two heater matrix hoses the wrong way round by mistake but it still gave lots of heat.

The oil is dependant on its use, or lack of usual expected range of usual use. The fixed terms are just guesses the oil may be best or needing change before or after those fixed terms, it depends on the actual oil used and the use it's put to. The VWŠkoda oil "service" measure is trying to calculate use for when to change the oil. Then there are different types and grades of synthetic oil but that's another matter. Synthetic oil isn't that expensive, we in UK like to pay more for car stuff that's partly why VW doesn't mind going to all the effort of making RHD cars to sell over here plus all the profit on their spare parts and oils for those that buy their VW labelled oils and other fluids. I'm more aware of oils like 1980s Castrol GTX than many here as until a few years ago my one and only everyday use car for the previous 16 years was a 1973 MG Midget (the Mk3 is my wife's car) and having various other old over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" as everyday cars (used all year round) including three other MGs over the decades I got to know the MG Owners Club spare parts well and they have the franchise for Castrol Classic Oils (including now GTX). And having many old farts in the "classic" car world I had to justify when I used and suggested Mobil 1 and other synthetic oils, instead of traditional "mineral" oils (with loads of ZZDP), in my "classics" and that others could do the same, decades back. Up to you but if you want to this professional expert might help you understand (I am NOT an expert in oil or anything else). First a video from him you will like then another you probably won't agree with. (2026 VW 😄) - 'The Accuracy of OIL LIFE Indicators REVEALED!' - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4e0oDBseqo (2,000 miles in first year) (and I am a BIG Fan of Owner's Manuals) - 'The FACTS About Oil Changes (What The Owner's Manual DIDN'T Tell You)' - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDxn3mRTOfg

In that case it might be that other stuff wasn't fitted to enable four-button control at the driver's door or it is there but needs scan tool 'coding' to operate with four-button switch, but again I don't know, but the source I gave you probably will be able to get that build information given your VIN. Good luck.

That is not what I put, in fact I put they're usually reasonably accurate but VW parameters aren't always the best for the car owner particularly if you want to keep the car longer term. You seem to be saying, the representatives at least, in 2026 of that multi billion dollar, decades old, car giant wrote a sentence that doesn't actually make sense, perhaps they used AI. 😁 It's your car, your choice if you want to wait over 18 months / 18k-miles before "Inspection" and a bit under 18 months / 18k-miles / 16k-miles before having the "Oil change" then that is up to you. I agree with you that the paragraph you have quoted implies the car dictates the requirement but there might be a further explanation not quoted and/or in the small print of the agreement. I still wish you luck, it's each to their own for their choices, let us know how you get on with the service plan.

I had a really annoying rattle (aren't they all) on a car and I spent ages and trying lots of things (old car so I found a few fixing I could nip up, in the end it was one of the things I thought I had already checked at the very beginning, but obviously hadn't. In this case it was bonnet brackets bolts but the rattle seemed to move or be at different places for the three of us that heard it. Rattles like leaks can be difficult to pin down exactly sometimes. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Other than a FoMoCo I've never had Weber (not that I know much about carbs and then only SU) see if one of the chaps below is able and willing to identify it (these guys tend to be at shows I think). https://weber-carbs.co.uk/ https://classiccarbs.co.uk/ https://www.webcon.co.uk/ I have dealt with Eurocarb once and they seemed fine. - (Eurocarb) - https://www.dellorto.co.uk/ HTH.

Are you sure the two-buttons switch is correct and original for your car (I don't know, just seems very odd) - and are you sure it is the buttons that are making it hard to wind the window up? Best always to have the engine running when using electric motors (in case your battery is in a lower state of charge or health). Have you tried cleaning (and lubricating) the window channels as that can help at least easy things a bit. If the motor(s) are tired or it's other issues have a look and ask here, free advice willingly given. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/page/8/#comments Good luck.

Does it? Based on what- if it has one of the oil life readouts then they can be fairly good but if it's just a countdown calendar of days to next schedule possibly not so good or good at all, depends on your driving and car use. Lots of short journeys doesn't allow the engine oil to heat up enough. Use your engine oil temperature rather than coolant gauge to see when the engine is warm, 90+c on the oil not coolant. Always check, double check and cross reference any information you get from any source but much more so with A (so-called, it's not) I, what sensors are there on the car that actually measure engine oil quality - none. - https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/oil-life-monitors-are-they-really-accurate/ They are A but the language systems are definitely not I - like "smart" devices, they're just the usual very dumb computers and programing. That is not a good thing for many bits on the car including the engine, have the engine serviced annually if you intend to keep the car longer term. Unless you send the oil for for analysist Although VWŠkoda don't seem to fully appreciate it with their sales and marketing service and "maintenance" schedules there is more to whole car servicing than just an engine oil and filter change and a look to find chargeable work that may or may not actually need doing. Get the car "serviced" hopefully they will do the ticksheet checks too, more than 12 months is too long to leave a car without it being looked at, just because it's new doesn't mean there can't be issue(s) that should at least be noted if not attended to. Ask the Dealership to set the car for annual "services" (fixed) instead of flexible unless you do ten times your current annual milage. (year ago I worked out it was less expensive to have taxi/bus rides than a new car for less than 3,000 miles a year) As the driver you want to keep on top of the driver's maintenance too don't leave things for once a year (or more) (possibly) checks. Good luck.

I got some brand new wheels and tyres set from a specialist marque supplier, I fitted them after changing front brake pads, I had just pulled away on a test run when I heard scraping from the front, so I stopped worrying about the brakes. It was the new wheels, the stick-on balancing wheel weights had been placed on all four wheels where the trackrod ends fixing caught them. Wheels from a marque specialist, how I wished I had remembered to spin the new wheels before lowing the car to the ground. One quick run round the block and the weights were sufficiently grooved, I had the wheels rebalanced with weights further inboard.

Bosch are alright, I couldn't get the specific ones so general size but they're fine. I think, but might be wrong there were/are counterfeits about on the old internet so buy from a reliable source. Don't forget you have to put the wiper arms in the annoying "service" position to fit the blades comfortably (instructions on how to set to annoying "service" position are in the car's 'Owner's Manual'.

You can get a pictorial idea from the following website but only certain way is to offer the wheel up or fit it, unless someone has the same car as you with same suspension (steering), same setup and sitting position, and same brakes. - https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Good news - what fixed it in the end, so that others will know the solution.

Other than removing the plastic A-pillar trim, always risky great 'fun' and checking it for damage and fit or something loose behind it, then no from me. That is of course if that is the actual location source of the rattle, sitting as a passenger with some sort of DIY stethoscope or just go by delicate touch with fingers. Rattles are always great 'fun' to locate and solve. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome.

Has your car had a VW update type of glitch by any chance. By those readings isn't that it, it's done. Have you driven the car since whatever you have done to let the very dumb computer systems know and confirm things are OK and no need to panic. If the doom light has remained on or remains on after driving the car perhaps through a few stop/start and/or ignition on/off cycle over a reasonable distance drive then your best bet might be to have a look at the OBDElevern forum for what other OBDEleven user found and done. Of course you will need the correct OBDEleven hardware and software systems and may want to do a full back-up before pressing any buttons. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

If they are manufactured correctly with correct reasonable quality materials then I am sure they are good but this is modern times, were these genuine OE parts, would storage aging have effected them at all. Personally if not OE and/or rubber inner part then I would bin them personally or recycle or use them on something that doesn't matter or as a spacer washer perhaps - just not on your engine as you would be very unhappy IF they leaked. Someone else might be less critical about them if so they can have them. €1.50 - that's what happens when something like this is packaged and sold individually, be interesting to see how much a box of 1,000 would cost.

@MikeTheThinker do just check that the information on that website is correct by cross reference or simply physically measuring the actual wheel you have as all databases have errors and omissions, and you and I aren't the only ones to mistype / incorrect data entry. Great of you to make the offer and great for Gammyleg if it comes off.

@DerekU thanks for finding that. Location in Scala - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533271-backup-battery-service-life-critical/#findComment-5952186 - [ETA: I was still typing and checking hyperlinks work when you posted] @peter77 See this for solution (yet another 12v battery charging need) - [ETA: if AI isn't correct on this one unique occasion of course] "The solution, according to the workshop manual and today's words from a technician at a Škoda car service, is this: With the ignition on, let the vehicle battery charge for two hours." - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533271-backup-battery-service-life-critical/#findComment-5952375 HTH.

IIRC they look like ones possibly used on Fords, personallly I would throw them away, unless the middle bit is plastic and then I might use them on something not to important but not for engine sump plug use.

I was looking at proper (forget the correct or marketing term) hybrid and "mild" (different ideas of what that might be) for my wife and all her short journeys and came to the same conclusion as Evolution13 that they're not best suited at all. 6k-milkes a year is low but not that low, or as I've put nowhere near as low as I see from neighbour's and looking at some new-ish replacement cars I've seen advertised, more like 1k-3k-miles a year, or less. It's the odd very occasional long journeys that would make electric only costings more difficult to pin down, at home or near(er) home should be easier to know and calculate. Servicing an electric car electric engine is something to look forward to compared to the messy, costly, farting about servicing an ICE engine which isn't.