Former

D.FYLAKTOS what size wheels are fitted to your car? Which Toyo tyres? (Toyo UK used to be just up the road from us.) 4.5Jx13 is a narrow wheel, 4.5" rim width, that was the factory size wheel on my 1973 car, the earlier model I had was factory standard 3.5"! rim width with 145/80/13 tyres fabulous steering feel and handling but that's on a lower and lighter car than yours. 165/70/13 was the low profile tyre to 145/80/13, the 70 and 80 profile contribute to the suspension and ride quality, the modern oversized wheels and very and ultra low profile tyre are more about fashion than grip, a tyres construction and composition compounds provide the grip and performance. Tyre tread too is as much about fashion as is bigger and wider wheels to fill the wheel arch and wider and lower profile tyres to look more butch. I used to give tyres 1,000 miles for performance and if I did not like them I would give them away and buy a new different set, sadly those days are long passed. On my factory stand 1987 Estelle 2 130 LS when It was new I put on a set Goodyear Eagle NCT (2?) and a BMW could not loose me on the back roads but I was doing to much mileage then to justify the wear, when I changed them worn a bit I went back to more usual tyres and boy what a difference, what a come down. Take the EU Tyre labels with a pinch of salt, when they first came in some good tyres were rated low and some not so good tyres rated higher than they deserved, as VW have proven you can rig things to look good in tests but it's a different matter in the real world. Tyres now more than previously 'dry rot' and go hard from lack of use and/or mileage often well before the thread has worn a lot so if you are not doing high mileage you might as well get grippy tyres for dry and wet, particularly wet obviously. Current tyres, at least in these sort of sizes, seem to have soft sidewalls and tread block now, nice for comfort but less so for spirited driving. There used to be a fabulous site about wheels and tyres with great comparison tools on it and explanations sadly the chap went commercial and all the information and tools taken off line but some sites have some good bits of information and (not so good) comparison tools.

Hi, welcome. You could try adjusting the seat back angle, seat height or the seatbelt wotsit on the door pillar or any permeation or combination of all three. Or see if it goes away. Or put on weigh or loose weight. The drivers seat sometimes squeaks in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 40+k-miles, I blamed her but then it did it when I was driving. It doesn't often do it so it's easy to ignore. You could try a little GT85 on any (non-cloth) areas that rub. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Internet or site playing up, photo was supposed to be in last post.

Yeah I noticed that and was going to put about it but events overtook me. The car was used the day before for 50 local miles. It rained all that day and overnight with the result shown in the photo, a little disappointing as . . . . . . the discs (and pads) were new in October this year about a 1,000 miles ago. The discs (and pads) are Pagid, sadly no longer Pagid Performance Braking(?) (Pagid UK Ltd.) up in North Yorkshire as the German side took them over and closed them down a while back. Now "Pagid is an OE brand of TMD Friction, and part of the Nisshinbo Group – the world’s biggest manufacturer of brake friction, and a truly global partner for the automotive industry." I think Euro Car Parts has a big tie-in with Pagid. I was impressed with the presentation and use of the pads, perhaps a little less so with the discs even from fitting but that's modern metals for ya, braking seems good though. TDM Friction are Mintex and a few others too. I'm sure you'll all be very glad to know the brakes were clear within a very short distance. 😁

Raw unmolested photo standing 4 foot back for angle of sight, sun behind camera so no flash, wheel unusually clean and free of brake dust and other stuff. A reasonable representation of what is actually seen (except it's in good focus). Good, thank you, that's the end then for you and me on this subject - all are relieved.

Hence the greatly zoomed-in or cropped and/or enlarged and contrast compensation. Just doing my entry.

Love it! Yes but when was that last confirmed. Always test the test equipment, and tester. 😄 Too true otherwise it could damage your new expensive battery and coding. You missed out though as you could have gone to Tayna for battery then nipped to Northampton had your battery coded and alternator checked and compared your old multimeter readings to a not too cheap modern digital multimeter and iffy Ring 12a SmartCharge with Battery Analyser and modern scan tool and picked the figure you felt most confident with, or liked. What did you put the probes or clips on to get the 10v? 😄

Yes but can you accept with this image, depending on what screen and zoom you use, you have magnification and contrast, and if those caps are black in real life a lot of light on the wheel, plus your wheels are reasonably clean, not much brake dust or mud and muck on them. Was that photo taken from standing up with the car on the ground as it looks to me as it's taken from a lower angle or zoomed in perhaps but I'm not David Bailey. The wheels on my wife's car are a lot cleaner than usual I'll get the old digital camera out put in the batteries it eats at an alarming rate and take a photo from my five foot eye level.

Just to sum up (I hope I have got this right). - Video at 7:56 am idles at just below an indicated 1,000, temp gauge needle on it's rest stop, knocking noise - https://youtu.be/9HRhuTTBtKE A few hours later, 12:22 pm idle is at about an indicated 1,100 ("And few hours later, Scenario No1(?)). Two or three minutes later about indicated 800+ and 70c. To me you didn't need or want a static warm up here. It is probably just a generation thing but if you hold the camera horizontally (landscape) you will get more more visual information in without having to move the camera so much. To me the revs are too low on the cold morning starts, scenario 3 and video, causing the knocking noise - so what's causing that is the question.

Well flat battery has perhaps been mentioned and alluded to once or twice - but below 10v!? Was that when you were cranking it over or at battery positive post clamp and body earth point. 10v and the battery probably didn't have enough energy to power the low battery warning messages. 😄 If you were using a cheap digital multimeter I've found they soon give untrustworthy figures, mine is a not so cheap but not expensive one and it gives very optimistic figures, but even that would struggle to raise a smile for a real 10v. If you're doing a like for like battery swap then you could get away with the car's computers eventually working things out for themselves but if you're going to change the battery type or reasonably significant change to power and capacity then you'd be best to recode for the new battery as soon as you can but not out and out wave your arms in the air panic, well not too soon anyway. 🙂 If you haven't got a higher level scan tool then the computer may take a little while to fully sort themselves but if you don't have any other faults they will settle. Let us know how you get on but do remember a battery is a store so even a new battery can be depleted.

Thanks, my brain hadn't totally migrated to Fantasy Island then, just it's usual visit. The general opinion as I've seen it seems to be as you've put, I think if you've done a like-for-like battery swap the recoding of the battery may not be necessary but if you've made a change, particularly in type of battery, then best to recode as soon as possible but it's not a panic situation. On my wife's Fabia Mk3 when I removed the battery for many hours and then put the new battery in only the time of day clock needed resetting the radio stations held and were immediately there from switching on, we've got the Bolero(?) 'infotainment' without SatNav.

I'm lost are we talking about a security code for a radio or recoding the battery? As you're such a pedant - you've got it wrong, you're quoting not paraphrasing Wino - and his delivery was much better. 😄 (smiley for others)

Hands up, I cocked up there, typing digit in front of brain or behind it, I forget.

IIRC first time I've put "need rebooting", don't think I've put they need booting either or where I boot them, or reboot them. You have also referred to my penchant on previous occasion(s) (I've not kept track). So are you saying computers never get confused and computers never need rebooting, I'm at a lost to your objection and you'd not want to see my i-can't Phone repair kit. Does this only apply to the subject car (2015 Octavia Scout) or generally, say for a 2005 Merc A-Class, and as you wouldn't want me passing on just what I've been told have you any confirmation you can put up that I can pass on? If I can pass on that conformation info it'd help me and I'll put you back on my Xmas card list, well, provisionally for this year at least.

Wot yu on about? I put I like the idea, since when are you allowed to police what I like Er, oh yer, see wot yu mean, er a brain fart there, mixed up the worms, I was programmed by VW I go a bit haywire every now and again - or Hooke's law and I'm a screw loose. 😁 (smiley for others). Must be lack of alcohol.

Totally agree. Well if it's a like for like battery change and you do it yourself it saves looking for someone with a scanner (or £20 to Halfords). On my wife's Fabia Mk3 only the time of day (date? I forget) 'clock' needed resetting which was the one I wasn't expecting. That's not the adjective I use. 🙂

I will give Urrell his due, he must have excellent eyesight, he can see what pattern of locking bolts are on my wife's Fabia Mk3 and Dale's Yeti, or do all Yetis have the same pattern, seems a bit unsecure, he would strain his eyes seeing them on my car though. So are we taking VRS_White_Hatch's Hookes law, or dispute it as I've now put it. (whoops, almost put a smiley)

The windscreen wipers don't work with the bonnet raised on my wife's Fabia Mk3, hope that helps to show how integrated the systems are, there lots of other examples but none come to (my) mind at the moment, perhaps at 2am.

Let's wait and see what the resolution is to your fault, hopefully it's not your fault, anything electrical and I will claim a reward. 😊 If it was the RAC coming out to you they sell batteries so seem to find a lot of batteries that can't for some reason be recharged.

This is a VW - VW made their computer programs over-complicated, they are very invasive and, like all other car company computer systems very intertwined. If the computers say get low power from low car battery and even if not they can get their panties in a twist and then cause all sorts of problems that may seem quite random. Or it could be a bad electrical connection of some kind, possibly even to one of the computers. Have my video of the day to perhaps help you understand the logic of (VW) vehicle computer programs, give you something to watch until Green Flag get there.

Do inspect and clean the connector pins, plug sockets on the two you swap around, get a magnifying glass out to check if you can and clean with electric contact cleaner, allow to fully dry before reconnecting. Before doing so have a good look at any wiring and connectors check they are located and held correctly to nicks in insulation, the coil(s) are fully seated and connected, no crud, crap or liquids around them. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Yes, probably and rough running. Basically the problem potentially could be from the battery all the way through to the engine and anywhere in between but your scanner has pointed to number 4 coil as the end point of fault, not necessarily point of fault but it could be, it could be as simple as something isn't push home properly or the coil is faulty which is why I suggested swapping it around. The thing is if the problem is intermittent then you have to wait for it or try to provoke it. The engine is VW the cheating computer programs are VW, there's lots of VW on the Fabia, look at any parts and see if it has VW or Skoda on it. I don't understand, why are you paying a garage for their expertise and then not trusting them to know what they're doing, they'll ignore what you say anyway which is partly correct as they need to establish the actual fault and remedy themselves. Unless there are codes or signs of misfire I don't see why a plug would need replacing. A proper scanner with someone that knows how to do diagnostics properly should make this an easy job - or I'm misunderstanding these machines which is possible. The machine you have is very entry level the full machines do so much it should be a lot easier with them, my neighbour's scanner showed 638 lines for the engine on my wife's Fabia and that's not a pro machine.

I hope you said that was because of your wife's good driving techniques! 🙂

Different to my understanding of it, you can get codes without any warning lights, whistles or bells, you can get codes when there's not really any problem other than the computer programs and they can be recorded. By historical I only mean not as live data, like back in time watching a VCR recording rather than the live telly transmission. For your code, a quick look on our American master's search machine (also answers your previous question) - P2309 – VOLKSWAGEN Code : P2309 Marque : VOLKSWAGEN Description : P2309 VOLKSWAGEN Ignition Coil 4 Primary Control Circuit Low Causes possibles : * Faulty Ignition Coil 4 * Ignition Coil 4 harness is open or shorted * Ignition Coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection https://www.cardiag.me/en/obd2-en/p2309-volkswagen/ BTW on a reset on older cars previous setting like throttle position are lost but I think ours at 2015/16 might hold the settings but I could be wrong, very often am, I didn't notice any change on my wife's car but perhaps there was. If things are totally reset then perhaps initially some things might not improve immediately until the settings are re-established. I drove my wife's Fabia yesterday, cold morning start, high idle and rough feel to it so I wait about 10-20 seconds for idle to drop and smooth out, in this time I don't load the engine with putting anything electrical on (the DRL are on by strict order from the boss). The engine bay often has odd sounds I just ignore them now as I think it's just the computers interfering (probably fiddling the emissions and mpg figures).

Perhaps I'm wrong but my understanding is that the codes are stored, but your machine might not see them. What new code did you get, and bear in mind sometimes the codes mean very little in themselves and/or can relate direct to other codes.