Former

Good edit recovery. I always have Sod's Law with the one's I don't check or missed, and I usually take more than one edit to get my posts half readable.

Fair enough but I'm not sure you're exact issue will be covered, I've not read all 23 pages only a few posts, I more thought that you might post your question there, I'd get confused after just a few posts there.

Hi, welcome, sorry I don't know, but you could get an answer from here, or you might be better with asking on the 'I need Bolero update :-)' thread. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/470449-i-need-bolero-update/page/23/

Clean and lubricate is often the answer or prevention and what many repairs and much servicing and maintenance is about, it's boring and unsexy so not as appealing as high level 'diagnostics' and fiddling around and looking up obscure problems and resolves. I think often the computers and programs that help but also plague all our lives just need a reboot, personally I'd want to reboot them with a drop-kick from steel toecaps. Earlier this year I changed the 'gearbox' (5-speed manual) oil on my wife's 2015 car (first time I'd ever really worked on the car) and she said she could notice the difference. I know some think that as the oil has been in the ground millions of years that how long it should last in transmissions but if done properly the change can also be a bit of a clean too.

For the DSG box I'd put up a new thread to ask others and perhaps check you're car has not missed any software updates on it (if there were any, I don't know). As always I'll say if your battery is low for the computers they'll play up in all sorts of weird and wonderful ways with everything so interconnected. Your S3 problem could be "just" be something to do with its many computers. My wife won a raffle prize to drive a Landie off-road but she took it at Rockingham as it was closer to us and she ended up in a BMW X5 instead and got told off for braking whilst going down the slope to later get an apology as they'd found a sensor had got mud on it and playing the computer up! Mud on a supposedly off-road vehicle! For the ride quality, new tyres might help, plus what pressure you run them at.

I just looked it up and that's a bulb I had as a spare for years, offset pins. P21/4 - (Ring) R566 - (Lucas LLB) 566 BAZ15d - B = bayonet, A = I think is for small (bayonet), Z = I guess is the type of offset (pins), 15 = 15mm width of cap (base), d = double contact. (semi-) Why we have to have so many different parts doing the same job is beyond me. 12V_Wallchart.pdf

On the way back from the micropub my wife declares that the orange triangle of doom has just appeared on the dash display. As passenger I turn on the 'radio' (infotainment unit) to see what the 'Car' menu can tell us. Rear brake light. Now, very unusually, I remember we had this a few years back on this car, at the time I went to replace the bulb to find it was fine so I swapped that bulb to the other side of the car and left the new bulb where it was after checking and cleaning the contacts. As we were more-or-less passing Halfords and I'd given away my stock of brake-light bulbs to neighbours over the years we called in to refresh stock. After the purchase I stood in the rain at the back of the vehicle to see which side the light was out - none of them! The computer had ****ed me about again! Back in the vehicle and dry and no more orange triangle of doom showing, me wet but with a fresh stock of "25% longer lasting" bulbs as the "heavy duty" bulbs were no longer on sale ("heavy duty" was made to older normal standards as opposed to the alternative of **** poorly made modern parts). I wait for the car's computers to have another mardy moment.

Here's hoping it's something cheap like spark plugs causing the computers to play silly-devils. Time for me to be driven to and/or from drink.

On listening to your video again with headphones what I thought I heard I didn't and all sounds different this time, sounds more engine like. I've had three cylinder cars 599cc, 657cc, 659cc all with turbos, and a 997cc without turbo, that was from new and it sounded a bit rough when pushed but was fine and economical but I do wonder how it'd be at 100k-miles of use and abuse. As that's from someone who knows what they're talking about rather than me I think that'd be a good idea - and a scan with a VW program scan tool may tell you a lot especially with live data and if historical codes haven't been cleared. All good then, I wasn't sure which oil was now in there. Interestingly I couldn't find the Castrol oil you put at Castrol UK but different markets have different versions of the same name and different availabilities.

Thanks, another three letters to try to remember, what would a leak at the gasket or other do to that little computer minion? No doubt you'll discover the answer later. The noise was before and after an oil change but with an oil additive added and if still using 10w-40 I'd do a hot and long drain and refill with 5w-30 by autumn before the cold weather but ready for it treating the 10w-40 (if it's still in the engine) as a running flush (changing oil filter too).

As you've probably picked up I'd not over-rely on any computer and just about anything seems to upset them so best to see what they're moaning about, real or not. Whilst the belt is off if you hold about 4,000 revs for a while to see if there's any start of turbo rattle or clattering.

Fair enough, what does it have instead (for the computers to be upset about, apart from everything else)? What did you think of the video of the noise?

I only know what's in the 'Owner's Manual' that I've just looked at on the internet. - https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/115eb4377c96c24cb6c478da3dc5819a_8_en_GB?ct=115eb4377c96c24cb6c478da3dc5819a_8_en_GB#titled796238674e25412 Operating conditions for windscreen wipers Engine compartment flap closed Boot lid closed Ignition on The car is under warranty so you could just ask the dealer - OR - try posting on the 'I need Bolero Update :-)' thread for the computer people there.

I wasn't thinking of you buying an expensive scan tool rather going to someone who has the correct system and can do a full reading and report for you and clear any unneeded codes. The hyperlink in above takes you to a map of Ireland with perhaps four people who may be willing to help you by scanning your car and give you a report if you contact them, I've no idea if you're near any of them though. Be very careful with the MAF sensor as it's delicate and you're supposed to use a special cleaner for it, I've no idea if ordinary electrical contact cleaner is suitable or not if it's not too dirty. You could also check it and other sensors are the proper makes and numbers in case an poor quality aftermarket has replaced any of the originals. Again a good quality scan tool would show what figures they're working at and you can look up if that's within usual tolerance. As always you want your battery and all connections in good condition and battery in a good state of charge, the battery starting the car and the headlights seeming bright enough means nothing if the computers aren't getting enough electrickery to keep them fully happy.

Sorry, I forgot to put - I'd always do any type of servicing maintenance work, such as changing sparkplugs (if required) and test the result before going to the trouble of other work which would be additional work to what's normally required for service/maintenance such as removing the belt, or buying special tools but a simple job like spraying the manifold with carb cleaner or WD40 if they're readily to hand I'd also try. And if you really want to know the cause and/or remedy you'll need to do one thing at a time and thoroughly test it. I'm sure I've probably mentioned keeping the battery in a good state of charge to keep the computers happy or they'll really mess with the car and not necessarily throw up warning lights until it's too late. A better scan tool would give info on the various sensors actual functioning. As servicing (and many repairs) are just basically about cleaning and lubricating I'm a fan of next level servicing such as cleaning MAF and throttle body or at least a visual check for muck and crud. I've rambled again, "nurse time for my coco".

Yeah I forgot that bit then. Course it also means you are paying less for new sparkplugs. Just taking the belt off, after you've got the engine fully warmed, might also quieten any noises from it's use perhaps helping to locate the knocking sound. The old stethoscope trick where you use something to amplify the vibrations/noise , screwdriver to ear /check bone /skull type of thing but be ware a running engine is hazardous and if you slip and damage your ear or eye you may sorely (perhaps literally) regret it possibly for the rest of your life. US Pro are a reasonable quality low price make of tools - US PRO Automotive Stethoscope Mechanics Engine Diagnostic Tool Probe 5389, 7 Euros including P&P - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/152736005277 Be interesting to see your update - don't hide it if it's a bonnet prop knocking. Good luck.

A quick guess only, do you have the wipers on an automated setting? Have a look in your paper printed(?) Driver's Handbook / Operator's Manual / Operating Instructions, if you read that book and then later refer back to it as required you will more about your car than the salesperson and many long term owners. If you still can't find the info just return here - and if you do find the info let us know for future info for others. General list of Manuals here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

Easy to take off and try though as that might have been one of the sounds I heard - or it might just be it's usual noise at that age. Battery (almost always driver's fault) and charging system faults are one of the main causes of breakdowns for roadside repair companies. A poor battery will put strain on alternator and a poor alternator will put additional strain on the battery. Not much point sorting one item like the knocking to very soon be let down by another, the alternator very probably (famous last words) won't be the cause of the knocking but if you're going to be using the car at night and/or in the winter you don't want to get caught out like most do. Prevention is better than wet, cold miserable roadside recovery.

Did you try swapping the coils and plugs over sides of engine, if the sound is around 1 & 2 end swap them with 3 & 4 see if sound moves ends or stays where it is.. And if the sound moves end swap only one back to it's original position and see what happens, and when the music stops grab a seat. If the plugs haven't been changed for a while or you don't for the effort and cost I'd just put a good set of new plugs in anyway, can make a surprising difference even if the old plugs are OK they can be long passed their best or optimum. I loathe farting about with cars I like reliability, well as much as I can get with old British cars that have many modern made **** poor parts for them, and loads of rubbish rubber parts I imagine some crap modern made parts go on to modern vehicles now too, not worth counterfeiting them like they used to just sell them cheap legally.

You're a mind reader, I hadn't yet typed that in my reply !

Did you clean the air filter and filter box whilst you were there, I've seen people just look at the top of the filter. Sucking or blowing gaskets can make funny noises. The sounds I was thinking of were probably from your car but I don't know how high you were revving it.

Possibly because this time you scrolled down the webpage(?). . . . I know as I've made the same mistake on other web pages. Now you can check the relevant Driver's Handbook for whichever model date (or model) that you're looking at, bearing in mind some features vary with model and optional extras with each car. Doesn't mean you can't ask here if you need more info or info not in the book. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Yes I can definitely hear something not sure about knocking as such, bonnet up next time to hear more, I can hear two or three noises. I'm not sure it's a internal engine noise - but others would know much more and hear more than me. Have you done other servicing work on the engine (one of the least important things on a vehicle) like replaced air filter, spark plugs, etc.? Also have you tried looking for a vacuum leak or hose/connector off, spraying carb cleaner or such like around the manifold with engine warmed and running? ETA: Tested coils individually, wiggled any and all other wires/cables you can get your protected fingers on when engine is still cold. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body? Checked water and exhaust sensors? - The computers can throw all sorts of strange wobbles and if you have more than one issue combining their effects the wobbles could be more and stranger. You really need someone who knows what they're talking about, which ain't me and someone with a good VW scan tool there's only four marked on this map if it's still current and the person still wants to help out. - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk

With the belt it could be resistance from whatever it drives, or is driven by, or the belt itself which might be more effected by being warmed. Could try running the engine with the belt off to see what noises disappear(?), perhaps the rattle. Are you sure your knocking noise is from the engine and not elsewhere, nothing silly like you've moved something whilst doing the oil change, or the engine mounts, or left something (or tool) somewhere it shouldn't be. 10 miles after oil change I'd thought was just a coincidence but I'm very often wrong. Is your scan tool able to go deep enough to pick up enough info, if it runs well when cold but not after then you really need a scan tool that can record live running data when the engine is running at problem time. Perhaps a sound recording of the knocking noise might help.

Again, if you look at and read the relevant Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual in this case) you will know more that many long term owners about the model. There are also videos on the web but whether they refer to the correct system or not I don't know, I don't like general information when specific information is available, often too many variables, but I don't know if this is the case this time, I'd just read the correct book. "Parking aid (ParkPilot)  Introduction The parking aid (hereinafter simply referred to as the system) uses acoustic signals on the Infotainment screen when manoeuvring around obstacles in the vicinity of the vehicle." more info detailed info in the DH. - (page 174 on, here) - https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Fabia_NJ/07-2018/Manual/Fabia/A06_Fabia_OwnersManual.pdf General list of Manuals here. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models