Former

If I Remember Correctly -which is hit 'n' miss for me, I think. 🙃

It won't be 0, don't rely on Haynes to always be correct but if you take it as 5 plus or minus 2(?) then 3-7(?) (are the markings that accurate?). With rotor pointing to number 1, it might be more near rather than spot on on number 1. Same with will it actually idle smoothly at 725 rpm anytime, or perhaps higher or perhaps lower. Berar in mind the Haynes refers to a factory car and settings from when the car was new, many things have changed since then and probably many miles on the engine, plus there may have been changes to or on the engine since the car lefty the factory. The book figures are a very good starting reference, and might still stand, but the idea is to get the engine running well today as it is and with how things are today so don't be too slavish about book figures - and check and cross-reference the figures are correct, all data has errors and omission including Haynes (started by an English chap in the 1960s). Check the Haynes, as I remember it you set up with the vacuum disconnected but it might not matter so much with electronic ignition, leave the vacuum on the middle (neutral setting) unless Haynes says different or you need adjustment.

? You are a freeman - free to go (or stay) where you please, or are you fed up with the Up Owners site, or they with you, movers remorse perhaps.

You could check the mechanical movement of the pedal, no muck, fluff, grit wotever causing the movement not to be smooth (less noticeable with a foot in footwear, more noticeable with ungloved hand). Many car repairs (servicing and maintenance) often boils down to clean and lubricate GT85 is my choice often. If not then there's calibration I think IIRC, but is the issue with the pedal or engine end or also related to transmission too. There's info, threads and posts on 1.0 DSGs and how they behave some thoughts seem to be you have to get used to them or adjust to them, the (VW?) computers aren't always the best at driving. 2021 would be too late for the earlier throttle body issue. You could try adjustment of throttle pedal control if it exists and reset throttle body perhaps for good measure if playing with things. 1.0 3-cylinder is different to 1.2 4-cylinder (and of course DSG to manual if applicable) and a 2021 Mk3 different to a 2011 Mk2, given time you'll know in which areas things might have got better and others where they certainly haven't and not as good. HTH.

Hi, welcome, Sorry you didn't receive a reply sooner but you might be better looking at or asking in the 'Škoda Kadiaq' section or forum of this site, link below, as the model owners there will have experience and advice of the model. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/340-%C5%A1koda-kodiaq/

Hi, welcome. The fact that an historic error code shows indicates a certain laziness in the past as it should have been deleted. A 6-7 year VW old car will be out of warranty (in the UK but not elsewhere) and could have been through x-numbers of owners and garages (though the low mileage may suggest one or few owners) so repairs, servicing and maintenance may be recorded digitally or not, and with VWŠkoda or not. You could ask the seller for a print out of the digital service history or try contacting Škoda UK but I can't remember what they require to give this info out. Repairs may not be listed, they're not on the history I have for the repairs (this is a modern VW so not as well made as last century). With any used car the only history you can get is what has been reported and possibly you might not always get all of that, what is not recorded needs to be looked for or found, so you done the right thing by taking a mechanic but even if he drove the car he won't know the full history and condition of the car, he can only go on the information he's given and finds on the test drive at that time, same as an MoT PASS it only relates to that one point in time not really the past or future. Personally I suggest you look for a Toyota or Honda, perhaps a little older, but if you have your heart set on this model of car then look elsewhere if the seller doesn't give you what you want. I'm older so I would expect to be allowed on a longer test drive route or tell the salesman /Sales Manager / garage Principal / Area Manager or whoever if I can't properly test drive the car I'd buy from elsewhere. For the wastegate issue and central locking issue if you have not already done so you could look at the Škoda Karoq section and forum(s) on this website and ask there for other owners experience and advice. A low annual mileage and lots of short trips can cause other issues, you want the engine oil (oil not coolant) temperature to reach say 90c on journeys for better protection of the engine and the oil plus the 12v battery may not get sufficient regular charge causing it (and to some extent alternator) more wear and tear, low battery for the computer systems can cause all sorts of issues, low but headlights will still seem bright enough and engine start, the use of an appropriate battery charge can solve this and preventative recharging can prevent the problem. Then the tyres will perhaps age more if the car is sitting around outside a lot. Of course there will be less wear on many items, but they still age. HTH. Škoda Karoq - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-%C5%A1koda-karoq/

That insert image (94 of 205) is the illustration briefly shown in the video and to me clearly shows the way the guy in the video applied the white Liqui Moly stuff, to the bottom face of "ignition coil sealing hose" and not to the inside or outside of the rising side, which makes sense to me as that is probably the surface that touches and is slightly compressed when screwing the coil pack retaining bolt. ETA: forgot the image Whether the above took over from whacking some G 052 565 A1 grease on "the ignition coils with power output stage" because the venerable VW engineers got it wrong in the earlier times, I don't know but [others] might very well think that; I couldn't possibly comment. 😄 Perhaps you need both some on the bottom face and ribbed top, what does it say in a 2025 manual, I'm sure the VW engineers would have it sorted. 😄 Try loosening two and three first, after using compressed air or GT85, or anything else you think might help. I'd (shake)quick spray with GT85 and leave as many hours as possible to soak then try rocking them out.

It looks like you also have to get your chakras aligned for good calmer (sic). All as clear as mud.

Have you got an illustration (screenshot, pdf) you can put up to show this for future info please? CM? - Got it, I think, first centimetre? Yes I'd worry about getting anything on the plug cap, but then I expect there are some "greases" that might be good for the plug cap and "ignition coil sealing hoses" but who knows if it's the VW labelled stuff or any other stuff without knowing what the "ignition coil sealing hoses" are made of and suitable with and without information or instructions from VW, hence relying on the limited information they let slip.

Yes I agree but that's how things are with internet vids, the guy's probably not making much (if anything) out of the video, I did put the video was better than many but I didn't think it was without flaws but it's better than the ones you and I haven't put up. I've very, very limited experience of cameras and videos but know a little of their limitations and making a video/film (just from watching the telly) example last night, three shots in a program taking a night to shoot with loads of people working on it, minutes or seconds on the screen, then there's the editing . . . . The video had flaws but was better than most I've seen about jobs on cars. An ex-neighbour shot some videos very quickly for his YT channel with s/h cheap Go-Pro copy camera(s) and I was very surprised at the quality (from free editing software) but then he told me how long he'd spent editing the video, and once it's up on YT that's it for editing further so mistakes and flaws stay in. I edit my posts, usually more than once yet they're still a mess, I'd not want to do a video, 30 seconds would be a lifetime's work for me. How many DIYers have a torque wrench that goes down to 8 Nm let alone accurately or regularly checked, not me for one.

The screen size for too small for my eyes I only saw it was Liqui Moly (a brand German car fans seem to favour). Quite right, always check and cross reference for yourself any information you get from any source (including manufacturers) but especially from a bloke of the internet - and erven more so if that bloke's me. Certainly does! £37.80 (20g tube) on that LLL Parts link. - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/g052565a1/silicone-paste Changing spark plugs used to be so easy. 😄 Gawd knows how much more difficult it'd be if you had to change those longer lasting plugs with years and tens of thousands of miles more use and heat cycles. VW do seem to introduce more levels of 'fun' (or PITA faffing and farting about to me) into their products often I think just to be 'clever', throwback to when they used to do engineering or as you put keep the riff-raff away. But then with any car anything other than driving is a loathsome chore to me and the amount of driving you can do gets more and more restricted as the cars get newer, probably not worse or better overall just different and they do get you from A to B.

Does it say where to coat these "ignition coil sealing hoses"? I take it back I wouldn't buy the VW (G 052 565 A1) labelled grease! - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/g052565a1/silicone-paste

Never stupid to try to do the right thing, finding out what is a right thing can be the difficult part. I'm not sure about assembly line originally altho' I could well be wrong as I am many times each day, I wonder if this "greasing" is something the mechanics discovered rather than the engineers prescription as it seems to be more needed on one than the other three (or two?) and a bit of an added in note on instructions. Whatever type of "grease" that's used it needs to be OK with whatever type of "rubber"(?) the boot is made of, I expect Liqui Moly would have check with the manufactured part. I'm (pretty) sure for those that prefer there will be a VW labelled sachet/tube of "grease" which will have a VW part number. If I was doing the job if this VW labelled "grease" wasn't too over-priced I'd buy it as part of the additional costs of servicing the marque and to ensure the boot comes out as easy as possible should I need to get at a plug or for next replacement for myself or the next person.

I should have added (spray) then leave to soak in for a while (with rusted/seized nuts, bolts, studs, etc. overnight at least) for this job a mug of tea and two biscuits (you might need the energy).

@rum4mo as you've done the job three times, hopefully at least twice on the same car to confirm effectiveness, what "grease" did you use and where did you apply it?

Good spot. I was too distracted by the oversized gloves. He puts up an illustration (very quickly) in the video and the one that came out had the grease in the same place, perhaps he put that there the previous time he done the work, seems reasonable enough to me, and he used Liqui Moly a favourite for German cars. Must admit I'd not seen that application shown before but it seems reasonable enough and the boot came out fairly easily. ETA: I'd want to avoid getting anything on the sparkplug top/cap. Use GT85, with its straw, as it's a better lubricant, penetrating/releasing agent not WD-40 Multi-Use (through both are made by the invasive American corporation that is WD-40 Company), only use as much as is required, it won't make a mess, it's also a cleaner too, and as I put you can clean area anyway to get rid of anything that might have help to hold the bot tight. It's your car and you're doing the job so you do it the way you prefer. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

@Gizmo I don't know if it counts here but I have a reasonable (resets, bidirectional, etc.) Launch scan tool so covers VW and (far too) many other brands so if I can help out Briskoda members with their VWŠkodas, or other makes, I'm happy to if I can.

Another thing, make sure the extractor tool is fully and securely fitted and located to get as much grip as possible, (without over doing it of course). Sometimes only lots of time and patience work. Lots of swearing in your head or out loud helps some, or hinder others. My wife told me long ago that when working on our cars I have four swear words that I repeat in a cycle. 🙃 When I'm doing (small) jobs on neighbours' cars I'm normally very patient but on our car(s), and this VW product of hers particularly, much, much less so.

This is the reason for the grease stuff. Don't twist the connector tubes (in a circular rotation motion) but rock them instead. You may need to try with things warmed if trying cold hasn't worked or warm, cool/cold cycles (hair dryer, engine heat for warm). When cold I might try a gentle spray of GT85 (shake can first then spray). IIRC it's number one that's the main PITA to get out so try getting opposite end out first to give a confidence boost. ETA: clean area after, without leaving or getting anything into that area or engine of course. https://gt85.co.uk/

@NigelC95 I gave up looking for the video I was thinking of but found the following instead which is a good video, certainly better than most videos on car service work. He does have the proper type pliers for those German style sprung self-closing clamps which is a great help (and another tool and cost and storage of tool) but with more effort (and PITA-ery) you can use other pliers (and swearing). How he can wear those gloves is beyond me. I personally would always remove the engine air filter box, clean it inside and out, and replace the filter too as the VW interval for engine air filter change is too long for me as car engines are basically giant air pumps on wheels so you want as much clean air going in as possible. No doubt there more than enough air going in by the design but some cars get more debris than others in use and when parked up. But that's just me.

Cable-ties (zip-ties) and wire coat hanger wire can also be DIY tools. I know Amazon link was an example but just to show Amazon often isn't the lowest priced supplier, and staying with ZKTOOL as tool manufacturer and/or supplier. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364861419635 @NigelC95 if I can find it (!) there was a reasonable video, which I'll post here, about replacing the spark plugs (a PITA job because of air filter box on 2015 1.2 TSI) which includes pulling the coil plugs without proper tool - but for the sake of £15 (or less) getting and using the tool would be the better option if possible.

@Ootohere could you do me a favour please and post your photos of DIY coil pullers or link to post/thread as I know they're in here somewhere but can't find it, even via Google.

Good point, you never know what goes on unless you do it yourself, but my guess is a Dealership would be doing the quickest, shortest method that involved the least materials to save them time and expense (unless it's chargeable to manufacturer or customer. An old independent garage or old mechanic might do though, same as copper-grease isn't recommended for use with brake pads now. I'm with you on that. You can get I think the more expensive type plugs that last longer, I'd guess you'd want to add the grease then for the next plug change many years and miles later. Out of interests which grease did you use, "ordinary" silicone, VW labelled, other?

As my wife's car is a 2015 1.2 TSI (90) I can (ETA: also) cover this question as I did consider buying the special spark plug spanner, coil-puller and grease/lubricant for coil (one of the end ones mainly) and of course the plugs, but as my wife said she'd not have the car 4 years later the additional cost and investment in dedicated tools wasn't worth it compared to just paying the Dealership £99 at the time. I will find the suggestions for DIY coil-pullers for you and post here.

I'm no expert (in anything) but I'd not worry about those plugs. Very good idea that you have changed them, or at least checked them, particularly on a VW engine IMO (VW don't have the experience that the old Japanese 3-cylinder, and much smaller capacity, had in them). You'd have to check but I think the spark plugs come self-lubricated now so no copper-grease or the like is used.