CReese123

Hi, Thank you for replying. My car was first registered July 2015. So would I be right in going with ATE? This said, does it matter which caliper it is replaced with?

Hi all, Looking to purchase calipers for my Fabia Mk3 1.4 tdi (engine CUSB), 90bhp, 2015. Is ATE and Teves the same thing? As I see everywhere online listing one or the other under manufacturer restriction. Thanks

You Skid in snow / Ice, which anyone with half a brain cell is aware of. Dry conditions and abs though? I don't think you understand my point. I was driving to work this morning and going around a sharp bend at very slow speeds, and - by this point - in dry conditions. Some clown bombs around the corner, so I have to slam to a halt. My abs cut in to the point my stopping distance is virtually non existent and I have to swerve out of the way to avoid a crash. All at stupidly low speeds. This is my reason for pondering my brake efficiency and querying dry conditions and abs. There is no reason it should kick in to that extent at extremely low speeds in dry weather in my opinion. And lastly, your assumption 5mph and probably more is inaccurate. I've not under emphasised my speeds in the slightest.

Hi buddy, that's interesting to hear. Where did you read this? Would pushing the pedal to its limit class as stamping? If so I've been doing this when investigating why it's engaging the abs at stupidly low speeds; pushing the brake pedal to the floor (sort of speak). I thought abs is speed regulated, though, and only engages when the wheels lock? I didn't think pedal input was relevant beyond it's potential locking of the wheels with brake force. I also don't see how it would register below 10mph as brake locking should be irrelevant and next to nothing at such low speeds.

What would both of your opinions be on ABS kicking in at extremely low speeds? That's what stands out to me the most. I also quickly tested the brakes again in the car park 10 minutes ago without going crazy. And as before, at 5-10mph the ABS is kicking in if I slam harshly on the brakes despite little to no speed and the road surface now being bone dry. I'll drop my car off at the garage tomorrow and see what they say. I'll update you guys.

I'm unsure buddy, given I've only noticed this today after two weeks. I'd have thought if it were tyre related I would've noticed the issue instantly upon changing them? I've drove a decent amount in the meantime. Sumitomo tyres - 185/60r15 Surely abs engagement at 5-10mph isn't nt meant to be, though, regardless?

Back tyres have 4mm of even tread. Front tyres are brand new midrange tyres (less than two weeks old). Front and rear brake discs and pads were changed all round at the start of the year, along with a complete fluid flush. Tyre pressures are checked regularly and set at the manufacturer recommended PSI of 30 (checked them this morning before leaving for work, oddly enough).

Best way I can describe is that the abs is excessive. For example, I drove at 15mph, got my speed down to 5mph and then slammed the brakes. Once I slammed the brakes at 5mph the abs still kicked in. Surely this isn't right? I don't see how or why it'd kick in at such slow speeds. Or even why such a feature would be relevant at 5mph? Also in answer to your question, I do not recall. However were I to slam the brakes I suppose my instinct would be to press the clutch down to prevent stalling. My car is a 2015 and has done 37 thousand miles.

Thanks buddy, I'll try and get it checked out. Just a shame I'm in work today. Fingers crossed it'll pose no issue when I jump back in the car tomorrow, but it's besides the point ain't it.

Hi all, Just drove to work this morning in some rain. Noticed going through the lanes that any sort of braking would result in excessive ABS even at low speeds. I had to brake harshly at 20-25mph as someone bombed around the corner, and all my car did was excessively engage ABS to the point as if it felt the car was not going to come to a stop. It felt as if I had next to no brakes. So outside work I hit the brakes harsh at say 15 to 20 mph, if that, and again excessive ABS feedback. Could this possibly be a one off or does it warrant further investigating? I'm in work for the next 24hrs so won't get the chance to give the car another drive and do further investigating until tomorrow.

That's mine (CUSB) 😅

Thank you for the quick reply! How did you locate the diagram, out of curiosity?

Hi all, Does anyone know where the DPF is located on the MK3 Skoda fabia, 1.4 tdi, diesel? It's a 2015 and I cannot see it running along the bottom of the car (exhaust piping) like on older model cars. Do they have the DPF tucked behind the engine on these models, right up by the exhaust manifold or something? Thanks,

Hi buddy, you're possibly right. Though I'd have thought 40nm for a subframe to be a bit low. I'm no expert mind and always consider manuals to be taken as guidance, not the be all and end all. Your input and feedback is much appreciated. All here to help each other after all 🙂

Hi all, Please see the attached torque figures for the various suspension components on Fabia Mk3 (NJ). Front and rear diagrams from workshop manual. Thought may come in handy for everyone.

Specialists so they knew what they were doing. Though one thing I've learned is never to take someone's 'word' for the work done and to look things over myself.

Thanks for the advice buddy. Exhaust note isn't drastically different and all is running smoothly, so hopefully ice nothing to worry about.

Hi all, Anyone know the location of the cat converter? I've traced it from the tailpipe to what I believe is the egr cooler and cannot see it. Is it right behind the engine or something? Had recent custom exhaust work done so want to make sure this has been left untouched and unaffected as originally assured. Thanks

Hi all, Anyone know the correct torque for front antiroll bar bushes? And as a side note, the torque for the front drop link stabilisers? 1.4 tdi MK3, NJ Thanks.

So basically all normal and to be expected, I'm guessing, buddy? So I've nothing to worry about?

Thanks both for the reassurance. Relieved me of my anxiety a tad

Hi all, Overfilled my coolant ever so slightly to check for leaks. Level has dropped to dead on max line when engine is hot. My query is, if a closed system, can coolant be lost by other means besides leakage? Ie. Is there a release valve in the reservoir or some sort of way for the system to purge excess coolant? Thanks

Hi guys, put a previous 0ost on here about wanting to bleed my brakes. Just a follow up, I plan to change the rear discs and pads. I've only ever replaced front discs/pads as I've only ever had cars with rear drum brakes. Is doing rear brake discs and pads as straightforward as the front? I understand the pistons need winding in, so my plan was to: Jack up the car, leave in gear and the handbrake off, Remove old rear discs/pads, Wind back the pistons all the way (clockwise) on the rear calipers, Put new discs/pads on, Pump brakes till the piston/pads are making contact with the new discs (as you'd do on the fronts), Bleed each wheel accordingly afterward to remove any excess air. Does this sound good? Also some people open the bleed nipple when pushing pistons back but I've never done this; I've always pushed them back with the master cylinder cap off and bleed nipple closed. Also my plan was to start with the rear discs/pads and making my way to the fronts. Btw am I right in assuming no disconnecting of the brake cables or adjustments of the handbrake is required, and that it'll adjust accordingly to the piston? Any advice is appreciated. Cheers.

Thanks for the prompt response buddy. I appreciate it! Also that is why I prefer gravity bleed also!

Hi all, My mk3 1.4 tdi Fabia has 'regenerative braking'... is the brake bleeding; procedure and method, the same as it would be for a car without this feature? I often just bleed the brakes via gravity using a one man method (time consuming but effective I find) This still feasible? Is it just a case of me cracking open each bleed nipple as per usual? Thanks