CReese123

Hi all, Just to add to this thread. I changed the window regulator on my driver side Fabia mk3 (1.4 tdi 2015) today. I do not feel the earlier comments are overly clear. But as suggested, to remove the window, there are plastic grommets either side that are circular. There are two pieces to each grommet. You use a screw and put it into the inner piece and pull out. I would apply some silicone grease beforehand though. Once this is out, the outter grommet comes out rather easily Reinstalling is the same but the process is in reverse. For reinstalling the grommets, I'd advise gentle tapping the inner piece into the outter piece with a tool (I used a small hammer and tiny metal tubing). All of this will save you time and aggravation. I've attached pics to assist. Once you've removed the grommets, push your window up all the way by hand and gaffa tape the edges so it stays in place. As this then gives your plenty of room to remove the old regulator and install the new one. Additionally, the part number for the driver side (front) window regulator is 6v0 837 462 c. It is easier to ring any local main dealer as opposed to looking online (I know from experience). I rang dealers in England and Wales who all had the parts in stock and price matched a new regulator at £80. Considering the aftermarket parts range from £60+ as do 2nd hand parts, I consider this a bargain. Hope this helps. Martin.

Hi guys, does anyone know if the front bumper needs removing to do the auxilary belt, cambelt + waterpump change on a 1.4 fabia mk3 2015? Thanks

Hello all, Does anyone have any step by step guidance on changing the brake pads on the rear calipers? This may sound stupid, but I'm used to servicing my car myself and done plenty to it in the past; top mount struts, wishbones, front discs, etc.., without any support from others. This said, I've never changed pads on a rear caliper before as all my previous cars had drums. Is it straightforward to change them? As I'm getting confused with the fact it connects to the e-brake and the fact you need a winding tool. I don't want to be messing anything up - I don't want to risk trial and error. Any step by step guidance or general help is very much appreciated, thanks.

That's what I did - think going for the newest available is the smartest option. Good luck 👍

It's the same siren used across the board by VW in their Skoda, VW, Seat models, etc. You'll find the part is transferable. There are not any model specific sirens. And the partnumber I quoted is not model specific. For example, I bought a replacement from a 2020 Polo, though I seen spares going for Octavia's, Superb's, Yeti's (all with the same part code). And even then, the few I seen with a different part code (I. E. Some newer, Face-lifted models) were 100% identical to the siren numbered 5Q0 951 605 A, and a direct fit - on that basis, I've no doubt it would have had no negative repercussions had I fitted a siren with a slightly different part code. It's just a siren at the end of the day. Try not to over think it - as there's simply nothing to over think. Hope this helps.

I'd try what I have done - as the shelf life on the alarms is reportedly 5yrs (on average). This said, don't rule out your interior sensors (should be overhead in between the two front seats, around the area of the middle light). If a fly is in your vehicle or even a spider, it'll set it off I've attached the part number in a picture for the alarm, which is : 5Q0 951 605 A Don't worry if the other little details don't add up. It's that number itself that needs to align with your alarm. And, contrary to what people may have you think, zero programming required, whether you buy it new or from a breakers yard.

If it helps, the siren took 10 minutes to fit as its located under the plastic scuttle that sits by the wiper blades. PS. It's worth scanning for fault codes also - unsure if its the same across the board, but I scanned my car out of curiosity 10 minutes prio to fitting the new alarm siren and it had hidden fault codes on the ecu. I was gonna change the siren either way, but scanned for curiosity.

Fixed the issue. Internal alarm siren battery had failed. Replaced with a £15 siren from a breakers yard off of a 2020 polo. All sorted.

I've not thought of this before. I will keep an eye and monitor if this is the case with my vehicle. Thanks for your reply.

Part is due back this Thursday. I'll keep you guys posted on how I get on! The alarm doesn't appear to have gone off since disconnecting the siren. Though with no sound, it's difficult to tell - my indicators still flash when the alarm is triggered mind, and I've not gone back to the car to see flashing lights at all. Does anyone know if the indicators turn off after some time? I know the alarm siren typically does after 10 minutes or so.

That's maddening. I've unclipped the siren for the meantime. And as a precaution, I've bought a second hand siren off of a 2019 polo (same part number) and also brand new interior sensors. Hoping just replacing the siren will fix the issue as I read online they will start sounding if the internal battery in the siren is on its last legs. FYI cost me £30 quid Update: Under the the windshield, between the wiper motor and linkages.

Also if anyone has knowledge on the location of the alarm siren, I'd very much appreciate the info. Thanks

Would that really trigger the interior sensor? As it's not overly sensitive - took a considerable amount of moving with me in the car to trigger it off. PS. I agree on the second part of your comment. Where I live is full of scumbags.

Hi all, I have a fabia mk3 2015. The car factory fitted car alarm has sounded two different nights this past week, for what I presume is no apparent reason at all. What could be the cause? The car battery itself is a year old, if that, and in full working order still (used a tester earlier to double check). All latch sensors appear to be working as the display illuminates on my dash whenever I open my door, boot and bonnets. I sat in my vehicle also to test the interior alarm sensor - it isn't overly sensitive, so again, I doubt these are faulty. No issue with me key fob either (still works as normal). Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

Hi all, I got a fabia, 1.4 tdi, mk3 with push down reverse. However after pushing down and putting it in reverse, the gearstick flicks back up. Is this normal or is the spring/gearstick meant to stay compressed down at all times whilst in reverse? FYI - reverse works fine no issues. Just don't recollect it doing this before (see video) received_829019255527321.mp4

I never found the issue buddy and just accepted it for what it is. I've changed the control arms, top mount struts, amongst other things. I never pinpointed the exact issue. The car drives great all the same, and I can't justify wasting money to chase a phantom. Virtually everything suspension wise has been replaced.

Thanks for the reply. I only queried as the brakes are significantly sharper with the braided hoses. So as much as people say braided hoses are a Placebo Effect, it certainly isn't in my case. The fluid was flushed less than a year ago and they've never been as great as they are now. Just wanted to make sure that's all. The OEM mid hose that wasn't replaced it still in good condition etc.

What's the revs like on idle?

Hi all, Just had braided brake hoses fitted to my car. Unfortunately only one rear mid hose could be replaced as the other rear mid hose is concealed by the fuel tank. The shop didn't have time to drop the tank out so discounted me the cost. I'm a bit panicky but will having one braided rear mid hose and one standard OEM mid hose cause a brake imbalance on the rear calipers? Shop reckons no but I'm a bit panicky. FYI: all other hoses were replaced without issue. Just the one hose that was a problem.

I didn't think manufacturer is relevant either, if they take the same brake pads and are physically of the same dimensions? As 98% of outlets selling calipers for my vehicle list the restriction as ATE, not Mando. I appreciate what you are saying though and am inclined to agree with you there. So irrespective of what calipers I purchase, I shouldn't expect any issues?

Both but worse in dry weather

It triggers whenever I go over a large speed hump and sounds as if it is coming from the front passenger side wheel. It's worse in cold weather. Not as noticeable in warm weather. And regardless of weather, it is most likely to be heard first thing in the morning when going over humps (lots of speed humps where I live).

What would the likelihood be of a worn shock on a 15 plate at 44k miles? Bearing in mind this noise has been ongoing since 20k miles? And I've not noticed any wear or tear in the shock from my inspection. Definitely coming from mainly the front passenger side of the vehicle over bumps. Would what you say result in croaking? Car did have new clutch and flywheel conversion from dmf to solid flywheel around two years back. So perhaps something is loose as you say and causing this croaking.