Auxiliary

I guess you have to. I have just purchased an other door and i need to remove the whole cable harness in order to switch it over to my door. My door is red and the one I bought is blue.

Thank you for the information. Could you please guide me on how to completely remove the whole harness from the door? Additionally, do you have another detailed image similar to the one above that you can share? Many thanks in advance.

Hello, Does anyone have instructions, preferably with images from the manufacturer, on how to remove the front left door and disconnect the wire harness that goes into the A-pillar? My car is left-hand drive.

Hello everyone! I hope you're all doing well. Window Issue: Upon turning the ignition key to position 2 and preparing to close the driver's door, I noticed a peculiar noise emanating from what I believe to be the fuse/relay box. Please refer to the attached image circled in red. Initially, when the windows were still operational, they emitted a jerking noise when I attempted to lower them. Additionally, the main switch on the driver's side seemed to be malfunctioning, while the individual window switches on the other doors operated more smoothly. However, in recent weeks, the windows have completely ceased to function. None of the window switches are able to operate them. I've already checked fuse 11. Online sources suggest that this problem may be caused by a short or break in the cable harness in the door. Air Conditioning Issue: I have the Climatic AC unit. Approximately two years ago, I had the AC gas refilled at a local garage by personnel I trust. Despite being assured of its airtight condition and being shown a receipt, I remained skeptical. However, the AC worked like a charm, producing very cold air. About a month ago, it began emitting a hissing noise, and its cooling efficiency noticeably declined. Now, it feels as though there may be no refrigerant left in the system. Could this be a classic symptom of a small rock puncturing the AC condenser? Thank you in advance for any assistance.

Yes, I am aware of this. Thanks. Currently, I am driving on 24% ethanol and 76% petrol. I haven't noticed any difference in idle or engine behaviour. I would say it consumes about the same amount of fuel. There is a 2-4% increase, which is probably due to my driving style,traffic or outside temperature rather than the engine using more. Cold starting at 5-8 degrees Celsius is no problem. No engine light either. I do not know the long-term effects yet. Maybe it can cause the pipes and fuel pump to work harder. A decent goal would be to drive using 30% ethanol.

I also calculated that I save very little money as well if everything works as it should.

Okay 20% at first then I’ll status report. Spark plugs are 2 years old in 1 month.

Alright, do know the capabilities of driving on a higher amount of ethanol using the BZG engine?

E85 is about 34% cheaper than E10 I am planning on trying 40% mix. Do you recon it’s to high?

As you said before it would be possible to run it at 40-50%? Is that a correct interpretation?

Have you tried mixing fuels before? And how far do you think this engine can manage percentage wise? Are we talking above 50% of ethanol?

Sounds great, 40-50% ethanol with petrol and I would be super happy. Currently we only have 95 octane with 10 ethanol and 98 octane with no added ethanol I think. What do you mean with the BZG engine doesn’t have a wideband?

What could possibly happen? That I may burn the catalytic converter? Or the lambda?

It is called E85 yes, trying to save some money by mixing fuels, 40% mix would be great

Hi everyone, Would it be possible to run the bzg engine on 40-50% ethanol? What could happen? Does anyone got experience? The ethanol in Sweden contains 15% petrol.

Hi fellow Skoda drivers! Recently I discovered a loud clunking noise. It's most apparent when I decelerate or when I use minimal throttle, straining the engine very little. When I accelerate normally, it does not sound as often or not as loud. It does, however, clunk when I turn right at slow speeds. Not as much as when engine braking. Thing is, my car was briefly troubleshot by my mechanic, who is a very good mechanic. He wasn't overly sure that it was a faulty driveshaft causing the issue. Due to it, it didn’t feel loose etc. I am not so sure. What else could be the cause of this? I hope this isn't the end of my car. Current mileage in British miles: 174 218 with full service history.

Is the wires really made to be pulled at like that?

Is there any twisting motion involved to remove them?

So there is no need to twist it in order to remove the whole assembly with module with light inserted in? Is it also just a push to reinstall it? No twisting needed?

It looks like a bit of a pain to replace those lights, the hole is very small and on the side with the battery space is very limited. I need your ideas of how doing it the easy and right way. Saw a YouTube video with a guy telling us to jiggle it out of its housing, I don't feel comfortable doing that because it looks like you need to twist it and then pull it. However, I cannot with my hands. Model 2009 with the Bi-Halogen lights.

Tanks for the tip!

I did check the fuse, it is whole. But I will use a multi-meter and try a different bulb.

I have checked the bulb and its to be alright, visually. I also have disconnected the entire light assembly in order to clean the connector. Still, it won't light up. Off topic: My last post (Idle issues). I'm happy to report that the idle issues and lack of response, power at low rpm is almost gone.

My car has the original Skoda service stamp in my service book. Every service has been done when it is supposed to be done. The last stamp was made by another car service firm, not Skoda original. And the very last by me. The spark plugs, replaced 2 years ago.

Do you know anybody with similar problems, symptoms?