olei

So I have replaced the wiring loom for the passenger side front door, but I still have the same issue. This mostly happens when I'm close to the passenger side doors. Today when I approached the passenger side rear door it started to lock continually.

Wiring loom going to the passenger door is probably the cause. I will have them replaced. 😀

Thanks. I have already replaced the wiring harness on the drivers door. I will check the passenger door wiring.

Kessy has started acting up on me. Sometimes the key fob doesn't work right away (but lock and unlock), and espacially for locking function I need to be out of kessy range. It has also happened several times that when I get out of the car and close the tour, is will start unlocking (I believe) continuously (with hazard lights blinking). This seems to be ongoing until I'm out of kessy range? Would a faulty door handle switch cause this issues? What else could it be? I have replaced battery in key fob, and also tried the spare key fob.

Could it be because of EGR cooler delete, or did you have issues before this as well? I would think that the EGR gases would increase the coolant temp.

One last bump, hoping someone on here as experience with the sport suspension.

No one have experience with the sport suspension?

Has anyone tried and compared the standard vs sport suspension on the Superb 2? I've got a '14 Superb, which will get Eibach lowering springs. I have tried these springs before as well, but with a Bilstein B12 kit (which uses Bilstein B8 shocks), but I found them way too harsh for daily use. I'm wondering if the OEM sport dampers will kill all the comfort.

Vibration is mostly in 3rd gear and upwards, but almost gone after replacing the left side CV joint. It was the inner CV joint that was dry (causing more friction under load I guess). You will need to disconnect the drive shaft to troubleshoot this.

It might be a CV-joint. I had the same issues (vibrating at WOT around 2-2500RPM) after remap, so I replaced the CV-joints on the left side drive shaft (FWD). The vibration is almost gone, and I'm planning on replace the right side as well. The old CV-joints were tight, but dry, so I expect the other side to be the same.

I want to make it "idiot-proof", so controlling it by a switch is not an option.

So no one has really retrofitted the "dumb" version?

Thanks for your replies. It seems that most people have fitted the CAN-bus version. According to 7zap my car uses a 1K0 963 235 G heater element, which is supposed to be the "dumb" version. I'm not sure if I can retrofit the CAN-bus version (that would be the 1K0 963 235 E heater, I believe), but it sure seems easier?

Has it been done? Will I need to add wires from the ECU, or will these already be in my harness? What are the parts numbers for the relays?

Hi all! I have a '14 Superb, and I'm wondering if it is possible to retrofit the "dump" version of the PTC?