deddog

I had the same problem, had to remove glovebox as the wiring was too short to remove the mediia unit.

If you are driving a front-wheel-drive vehicle and you have a flat at the front, you should replace the flat tyre with a rear tyre so that the space saver is not at the front of the car. I would have thought the AA would know this... maybe not.

Open the passenger door, remove side trim, unplug airbag and remove the two or three screws. Before you reassemble everything make sure all the connectors are still attatched to the audio unit.

It appear to be a vaccuum pipe. https://www.partshaus.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-audi-seat-skoda-vacuum-pipe-with-akf-valve-10-tsi-05c133352ad?srsltid=AfmBOoq9iRCERpowGbfYZV8IglLuMds6bfyMMiJ4D_f-mNGc1mb5iYkV I would have a go at repairing it with some self amalgamating tape if it was mine.

I bought the Halfords Advance footpack and the 127cm Thule aerobars. The Halfords footpack being much cheaper. Three guesses who makes the Halfords roofbars? Ps. I prefer the longer bars for carrying timber and Sheet material.

This video might help.

From: https://club.autodoc.co.uk/ P0441: causes, symptoms and repairs The meaning of fault code P0441 DTC P0441 indicates that the engine management system of the car has detected a problem with the purge flow in the evaporative emission control (EVAP) system. This means that too much or too little fuel vapour is flowing through the purge valve. The EVAP system is there to prevent fuel vapours from being released into the atmosphere. It directs a certain amount of vapour through the absorber component and valve, and into the air intake system to be used in the combustion process. The purge flow is monitored using a vacuum switch. The causes of code P0441 A damaged, loose or missing car fuel tank cap, allowing vapours to escape and bypass the charcoal canister Leaks in the pipes or hoses of the system, resulting in a loss of fuel vapour A restricted or unregulated purge flow, due to a faulty or jammed control solenoid Blockages in the EVAP hoses, caused by fuel contamination, a build-up of carbon deposits inside the tank, or metal shavings from worn components A broken vent valve, causing a build-up of pressure in the fuel tank or absorption tank An open or short solenoid circuit A damaged charcoal canister High resistance in the purge valve connector Inaccurate pressure sensor readings Possible symptoms In most cases, the fault is hardly noticeable, however, the driver may notice a few mild symptoms which indicate that something isn’t right. Symptoms associated with the DTC: Activation of the check engine light Rough or erratic idling Strange sounds when opening the car fuel tank A faint fuel smell (less common) Recommended repairs First you will need to obtain a comprehensive diagnosis. It is often difficult for car owners to detect this error without using an OBD2 scanner. The scan data should help you to determine the cause of the fault as well as any underlying issues. You can check whether the EVAP canister valve is working properly by measuring the resistance of the device with a multimeter. The reading should be something between 22.0 ohms and 30.0 ohms. Install a new solenoid if necessary. You will also need to inspect the canister housing for cracks or leaks, as well as the condition of the fuel tank cap. The solution might be as simple as tightening a loose fuel cap or replacing the charcoal component. Check the hoses and pipes for signs of damage, and make sure that the connections are secure to prevent vacuum leaks. Make sure that the power supply to the valves and sensors is secure. Broken wires or corroded connectors will need to be replaced or cleaned. You may be able to restore the electrical conductivity of the parts by cleaning the contacts with a special spray and treating them with a conductive lubricant. Contaminants can be removed from clogged EVAP lines using compressed air. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What does the code “P0441” mean? It means that ECU has detected an excessive or insufficient purge flow. What causes it to appear? This often occurs due to a loose or damaged fuel tank cap, system leaks, a short or open solenoid circuit, or blocked hoses. Can I still drive my car if this occurs? Purge flow faults don’t typically pose an immediate safety risk. However, getting your vehicle checked is a sensible idea as it will prevent further damage. For example, if the vent valve isn’t opening, the fuel tank could get damaged due to high pressure levels.

Try Kens Nottingham

I hope they provided you with a replacement car? If not I would have told them I would be hiring a car at their expense, then you would really see how quick they could fix it. Seems to me like the dealer is taking their own sweet time to reduce their costs. If you have informed your insurance company about the damage (as you should) get onto them and complain.

It demonstrates that there are alternative points on a vehicle that can safely be used to raise the car.

Here's a link to a very good video, the guy is clear and concise with his explanation on how to safely raise, support and lower a vehicle. This is one of the best videos I have come across, he knows what he is talking about. Bear in mind that attempting to carry out the lift with a tiny diy trolley jack will not be as easy as using a full length jack. How to safely lift any vehicle with a hydraulic floor jack!

The fact is that 'they" are liable to say anything to put people off attempting their own maintenance and repairs in order to fleece you out of £££. From tailor made oils to exotic shaped screws and bolts with mystical torque settings, all guaranteed to scare the carp out of the average motorist. It's just a car, if we look at it logically it's not that difficult to diy.

This is a decent video on how to place your car on four stands, using a grooved rubber block would probably be a good idea. How To Properly Lift a Car on 4 Jack Stands

Try blotting paper and a warm iron, the paper will absorb the wax. WD40 may help to clean any residue followed by some detergent and warm water. Good luck.

Same here.

It's from the right hand side of the glovebox. There is a picture about half way down page 1 of this thread.

Water filters of this type only remove chlorine from the tap water this does not affect the hardness of the water. If you want mineral free water for your washer bottle you could buy de ionized water, cadge some from your friendly pole fed window cleaner or invest £££ in R/O or DI resin.

Changing the width of the tyre will not affect the speedometer reading as the circumference is the same, or am I missing something?

Bit late on this thread but this is not "casting flash", they are firing cracks or heat shock cracks which are usually caused by molten metal being poured into an unheated or unevenly heated mold. Here's a link to a full explanation: https://www.giessereilexikon.com/en/foundry-lexicon/Encyclopedia/show/firing-cracks-4794/?cHash=8f9240aecbfc9fac9c45c28366397420

I have Thule wingbars that I have used on several different cars, just bought a new foot pack to suit. I don't use the bars half as much as I used to these days so I was looking for a cheaper alternative. I tried a pair of "Streetwise" bars from Amazon for £45, they were no good as they touched the roof with the inside of the mount. I went to Halfords to have a look at their own brand offering and low and behold their FP5 foot pack was almost identical to Thule, not surprising really as they are actually made in Sweden by Thule. Result, new Thule foot pack for half the price of the Thule branded product.

My guess would be a loose battery terminal or poor earth connection.

Perhaps it's the number of satellites it is linked to.

Huge wheels with rubber bands,a victory for style over substance.

Hi, my first Skoda a Karoq is due to land on my doorstep next week. Looking around the forum there I found a wealth of useful information that has already helped me with my purchase.