MikeHorsham

Update - it was the boot light switch, which has been replaced under warranty. The boot light and towbar both work fine now. Something I didn't notice was that the tailgate being open didn't trigger the dash warning showing the image of the car with the tailgate in red. So it was easy for the dealer to diagnose and fix. Not cheap though - over £200 for the boot lock (which includes the switch), plus one hour labour to include coding. Thankfully covered by the warranty.

I have a 2022 Scala with an extended warranty, which has a towbar which was dealer-fitted pre-delivery. Over the past summer the towbar often wouldn't drop (both from 'stowed' and 'out'), and the switch was not illuminated. It was fairly random and always dropped in the end, so I didn't worry about it too much. Now that we're into winter I have noticed that the boot light often fails to come on, and this always coincides with the towbar switch light not coming on. So I deduce that the towbar system relies on the boot being open to energise the switch (obvious safety feature), which makes me think that there is a problem with the boot light switch. I visited my local dealer today to book it in, and the first step will be diagnostics which I will have to pay for if the fault lies with the towbar itself. So some questions: 1. Is it more likely that the towbar is not working because of the light, rather than that the light is not working because of the towbar? 2. Is there a switch within the tailgate latch, or is there a gravity switch somewhere else? 3. Has anybody else had a similar issue, either with or without towbar? 4. Does this sound like a physical switch or wiring issue, rather than a software or coding issue?

Does your car have the auto DSG box? If so, there is a very handy but unused grommet in the bulkhead which is perfect for routing cables.

My concerns here would be whether interfering with relays would have a knock-on effect to any other aspect of the car - particularly stop/start - and whether it would invalidate the warranty. Even moreso if done as a DIY project.

I don't know a way without replacing the lights with annoying error notifications. Out of interest, why do you want to disable them?

It's adaptive cruise control. Are you confident that you will be able to successfully code it? I can't code my 2022 SEL to activate traffic sign recognition ... apparently from 2022 certain coding is hidden or locked down.

RHD car guidance. I ran my dashcam cable on the passenger side, firstly under the headlining and then by removing the A pillar trim and running the cable behind the airbag. The trim on the left end of the dash (i.e. on the side of the glovebox) is easily removed, then I piggybacked on a suitable fuse. Top tip - if you unplug the passenger airbag switch in order to move the trim right out of the way, don't switch on the ignition with it disconnected. I did, and it generated a fault code which I had to clear using OBDEleven. Hint - put zip ties on the dashcam cable to keep it from slipping out from behind the headlining. Just zip tight and cut the end short, and the 'blob' will keep the cable neatly tucked away.

Visit your dealer for them to check it - they will identify the fault code and work out what has caused it.

Tell us the dimensions of your golf bag ... and someone will measure their boot.

I have a 2022 1.5 SEL DSG. It's the best car I have ever owned - comfortable, powerful, nice-looking, roomy, nice to drive and safe. My own observations and to answer your points: I chose the 1.5 for comfortable cruising and towing - I know the 1.0 has the spec on paper, but I wanted 4 cylinders and the flexibility of more power. The DSG does have auto hold which operates on hills, and it works well. My previous car had an electronic handbrake, and returning to a 'proper' one has not been an issue. I sometimes have to force stop/start to operate by holding on the footbrake and shifting to neutral. Not ideal dazzling the car behind, but it works for me. Coming off the footbrake and using the handbrake whilst in drive allows creep. The behaviour of the DSG going downhill isn't ideal; it tends to select a far lower gear (with associated engine noise) than I would choose myself. So I change it manually going down steep hills, but otherwise I let the DSG make all the decisions. Economy is excellent - I have managed 50mpg towing a 400kg trailer tent, and I can achieve 60mpg on a light-footed motorway run with the wind behind me. My average MPG (calculated properly) is 46.5 (6.07 l/100km) which includes around town. It's always above 50mpg on a run. I chose the SEL for comfort and gadgets - no climate control as standard on the Monte Carlo when I purchased, and I really like the digital dash. And in 2022 there were still supply issues, so I had to take what was available rather than waiting 9+ months for a factory order - because I am inpatient. Back to digital dash - I cannot stress enough the benefit of the satnav screen/map in the driver's direct line of vision. The Skoda satnav is OK, although not as user-friendly as Google maps. The car can cope with Google maps perfectly well, but it displays on the centre screen rather than in the dash. Switching from cruise to speed limiter is a bit of a faff, and could be simpler. Lane control is very annoying, particularly on narrow country roads where it sometimes steers you into the edge. It can be disabled in car settings. I have an OBD scanner, and there is an app within which saves last the setting on lane control. Otherwise you have to disable it every time you restart the engine. Don't be put off by keyless entry/starting and the risk of theft - a faraday pouch (around £5) removes that risk.

I generated an airbag warning because I switched the ignition on to test the dashcam but I had the passenger airbag plug disconnected at the time. I cleared the warning light with OBD - full scan scan, fix fault. You may well be able to scan just the airbag module to save time.

I chose the SEL over the Monte Carlo for around £2,000 less, because (based on the spec at the time) with the SEL I gained rear armrest, wireless smartlink, keyless entry and stop/start and climate control. For me it was spec and gadgets over image.

Cabin heating recycles heat from the engine via the cooling system, so remote pre-heating isn't feasible for a standard petrol/diesel car. And I suspect that your heated seats and steering wheel will only work when the engine is running - same as the rear screen heater.

In a way this is good, becasue it means that your sensor is extremely accurate. The water will expand slightly as the engine warms up, which brings the level up above minimum. You need a relatively small amount of water, so as a one-off topping up with tap water will be fine. Use cooled boiled water if you're concerned about water purity. If you want to use antifreeze, match the colour of what's already in there. Don't add neat antifreeze - dilute it around 50/50 with water first. And watch your level over the next few weeks - you might have a slight coolant leak.

I had front sensors fitted by a local (Sussex) specialist, Road Radio. My car is a 2022 1.5 SEL, which like yours did not have front sensors factory-fitted. When negotiating the purchase I asked about dealer fitment, and was advised that anything they fitted would not be integrated with and coded to the car's systems. So I have standalone front sensors, which work but have a drawback - unlike factory fitted sensors, they remain active above 5mph which means that they make noise when they don't need to. So when I pass parked cars or roadside foliage I often hear a stray beep or two. They also give false warnings when covered with raindrops. I have an isolation switch fitted very neatly within easy reach, so it isn't a huge issue to switch them off when I need to. It's good to have front sensors, and if I had been patient enough to wait for a factory order I would have definitely added them.