MijIsTired

Neither nozzle has been moved, to my knowledge. Driver's side hits the windscreen fine. Passenger side sprays ineffectually everywhere else, and that started only a month or so ago. They're both in the same location. I tried aforementioned prodding to see if they moved. And they didn't. I wasn't inclined to use force at that point, as they look like they have snug seals between the housing and the scuttle. Doesn't mean they can't of course. May just need a bit of persuasion. Will try that in daylight. It seems a bit restrictive though, just the moving fore & back. Other models have a more obvious click up/down adjustment system, so wondering why this one doesn't.

I agree it looks that way. Sadly doesn't seem to be the case though. I didn't have time to do much today other than give them an experimental prod/shove. I have this: but it's part of this section: Removing and installing the spray nozzles for windscreen washer system Note The spray nozzles are optionally mounted with or without heating and cannot be adjusted. I'll probably take the scuttle off and have a look to see what's going on under there. If they're definitely not adjustable, I'd have to do that anyway to clear a tube if it's debris that's changed its direction.

The internet can't agree: some say adjustable, some say not. The videos I've found suggesting they are, have washers in a different location or housing, even though they're supposedly the same vehicle as mine (2011 Combi TSi 1.2). Haynes has nothing to say on the matter. workshop-manuals says not adjustable. I was used to the little 'swivel ball' type, that you just stuck a pin into, to adjust the angle of spray. And if they're not adjustable, is one of them just clogged if the spray is no longer even hitting the damn screen..? Here's mine, for avoidance of doubt re the version...

Anyone know the amps a heated rear window pulls? Fuse is 25amp (according to Haynes diagram). About to tackle the rejoining of its 2.4mm black wire, but the internet has failed me re if I need a 17 or 27amp wire. And it's the one that I don't think I'm going to be able to have enough slack to achieve sufficient overlap for splicing. I've got offcuts from my local friendly auto-electrician to play with (cos I could only find lengths of 3.5m-100m to buy new) but he was too busy to get into a conversation about anything other than I was free to take whatever I fancied from his spare cable treasure trove. I remember the principle of using the lowest rating fuse so it's actually useful for safety, but is the opposite true of cable? Use the higher one if there's room, to compensate for resistance and reduce risk of overheating..?

Update: I had the same problem as OP - engine kept running when ignition off and keys out - but turning off headlights cut the engine. I investigate the loom in the black bellows between body and tailgate. 5 wires broken, including the earth. I started with that - rejoined it and ta-da! - some of the weirder electrical misbehaving stopped immediately, including the engine/lights situation, but also my rear wiper magically restarted working. For where I've got to so far, see this thread: I'm not done yet, as I've reconnected the number plate light wire but have the top break light, the heated rear window and the other I now can't remember... So there will be further posts. But it's amazing what a dodgy, then kaput, earth can make other components do.

Life with a capital L has held up further progress. Getting back on it this weekend though. My dad has sent me over some heat shrink tubing to put his mind at ease that I'm not going to rely on soldering and insulation tape. Bless him. Crankcase breather elbow arrived finally, so going to divert to do that too. Never ending, innit.

Discovered not 3 but 5 broken wires in total: - Thicker - one black (heated rear window), one brown (earth), which I knew about - red/grey as spotted by UrbanPanzer - right number plate light. and now also - red/green - - red/black Managed to connect the broken earth, but it was a right struggle. It’s a combination of being in an awkward place and tools (like strippers/crimpers) being bigger than there’s space around or between the wires. It’s not a pretty fix, but at least it’s stopped some of the worst of the erratic behaviour. I did what UrbanPanzer suggested (such a useful guy) and went behind the rear left trim of the boot, and unclipped the coupler to see if it allowed me to pull through a bit more of the loom. It didn’t at first as that end of the earth lead has little play in it, but doing that, _and_ disconnecting the luggage compartment light _and_ releasing the two other little black bodywork clips holding the cables in place on their journey towards the roof did help. ⬆️ coupling station and disconnected luggage compartment light. First black clip - squeezed with pliers to push into bodywork to free up. ⬆️ Second one, higher up. They’re going to be a right pain to get back in. Had to use a variety of repurposed objects available (like bulldog clips) to keep the hinge bellows compressed and as far out of the way as possible, to improve access to wires. Joined the number plate wire today, to see what doing the smaller one was like. Fiddly, but managed it. Fairly sure it’s going to get harder each time as there’s less and less room.

Thanks, really useful to hear. I'm a bit timid with electrics. That plus @UrbanPanzer's intel re the coupling station I'm hoping will give me enough play to sort it.

Which is properly broken, so sounds bang on. Well that was erratic/haunted for ages and now has given up completely. So maybe both..? Or perhaps what you next say... As per above. Hoping fixing the brown, will stop a few other things throwing electrical paddies too... You absolute legend. Hadn't spotted that, it was dusk when I looked and didn't have enough hands to get quite enough light tin the right place with a torch (forgetting I own a head torch, FFS...) YES it's the right hand number plate light that still didn't come on when I changed the bulb. God, what would I do without yous lot..? Had a bit of pile-on of unexpected emergency jobs since I posted, but hoping to start to tackle this in dribs and drabs. I've bought myself a variety box of terminal connectors and butts (all hail Toolstation), so hoping to be able to rejoin & insulate without having to replace my MIA soldering iron.

Thank you! I did start to go looking for wiring diagrams, but there are some I can decipher, and some I don't (yet) have the skills to work out, so I stopped in favour of going to the Skoda Hivemind first. I'm definitely quite restrained with cabling, as it feels risky to really yank something if I don't know what the consequences will be! The rubber boots are a right pain in the arse to move out of the way, without an extra pair of hands. Should probably find something to use as a clamp. If the brown is an earth, though, am I right in thinking that could be the cause of all sorts of other random electrical behaviour..?

Back again with more electrics help requested 😬 I’m working through issues, of which there are many (for whole sorry list see this thread) and due to worsening tailgate malfunctions, decided to check the hinge loom after learning how common it is for the door ones to break. Checked the top/boot lid end first - all seemed OK though the rubber boot itself seemed to have been put back badly at some point so the edge was tucked under and I can see what could be signs of wear on the black wrap: But then the roof end… two wires properly broken. One brown, one black. Different angle, and I can see the other part of the black one but not the brown one. Questions! - anyone know what the brown and black ones connect to? I know what I think they probably are based on what’s stopped working completely, but there are now more than 2 things in that category 🤔 - assuming I could even find the other end of the brown one, is it worth attempting splicing and insulating? - or is this a whole new loom replacement situation? - in which case, is this the point at which I admit defeat and smash the piggy bank, or is it possible for a DIYer (with a trim removal tool kit 😂) who likes to learn but has mostly left electrics alone til recently..? Oh, and finally… Could this issue - which is now causing light flickers and other weird behaviour whenever I open or close the boot, also be responsible for only being able to cut the engine with the headlight control, if I’ve been driving with lights on..?! Or is that yet another different thing? (I’ll start a thread about it if so, to help others searching in the future…) Paging the magnificent @Breezy_Pete and @UrbanPanzer who have been brilliant with advice and signposting in the past. NB I have searched the forum and wider t’internet but I can find little useful about boot looms, it’s all about the very common driver and passenger door loom issues.

I’ve posted elsewhere about my 2011 Fabia TSi’s ghostly electrics which have been slowly deteriorating over the last couple of years. I’m working my way through the things I think are stand alone issues - started with the traditional blower resistor pack, drivers door loom inspection (looks ok) and next was going to be drivers window switch. There are several intermittent boot-wires issues too: rear wiper temperamental, boot catch no longer unlocks with central locking, one plate light out even with new bulb. So a pressing job was going to be to inspect that gater/loom to see if there’s anything obviously cracked or degraded. But yesterday, discovered the same problem PPs: turned key, removed key, engine still running. Unnerving! Through trial and error learned that turning the lights off, also cuts the engine. the WD40 trick on the hinges, or the earth comment - I’m not sure I get why or how that helps..? Great if it does, but I like to learn as I go. And make sure I’m spraying the right bit of course… Thanks in advance for all wisdom 🙏

Out of curiosity I searched for budget ones and I’m still picking myself up off the floor at the prices 😱

OK, as someone who has passable IT tech skills, but never entered the Venn diagram of IT & cars, is this something that can only be done by a garage/someone with a very specific bit of kit..? I'm increasingly leaning towards BCM as the source of my haunted electrics. As well as a couple of actual broken things I'm working through.

Following with interest. I have ghostly electrics too. Thought it was partly door loom (as a well known Skoda Easter egg) but actually it's only the RHD window switch that's gone and wires look surprisingly good in comparison to others. So now narrowing down the location of the majority of other issues, and I also have tailgate irregularities: one plate light doesn't work (changed bulb, still off), rear wiper occasionally just turns itself on for fun, boot intermittently refused to unlock with central locking, and now doesn't at all (though does on lid-pop only button from fob), heated rear window is temperamental etc etc. BUT there are also other glitches elsewhere, eg 'you've left your lights on' ping is intermittent, interior lights a bit random, audio is a bit dodgy etc. Does this sound like I should be checking BCM first @UrbanPanzer? Guessing I should be checking the tailgate loom/bellows too anyway...

Thank you again for the input! I am delighted to say… Haaaaaaaaaleluyah! Turns out, as is often the case when the problem-solving route has failed, I just had to hit it harder. Though for @ApertureS’s peace of mind, it was more ‘weight plus gravity’ than an actual whack. And I still appreciate the chemistry info 😁 I love to know how and why things work (or don’t). And @UrbanPanzerit wasn’t a silly question, and it was an excellent thought! but I was so drilled by my dad in the careful collection and storage of bits and pieces that I’m borderline incapable (famous last words) of missing something like that. Makes me veeeeeery slow though 😕 On to the next thing now - the bloody door loom. Wish me luck.

Thanks! I love a bit of detail 😁

This is all really helpful, thanks posters. That’s exactly where I was at: I know the trigger is electronic and so the actual impact sensors won’t be able to send a ‘deploy’ signal to the pack, but at the same time yeah, explosives, so feels wrong to thump it! So I’ll disconnect the battery, and maybe try being a bit more forceful, but will probably not use the shot mallet 😆 Though still hoping someone’s got tips for how to make this slightly less difficult..? This is my optimistic face…

Added to clarify configuration of dash, as two glove compartments doesn’t seem to be that common.

After a successful if long encounter with dash innards to replace the resistor pack, I now can’t get the s*dding airbag back into place. I can see all the lugs (apart from the ones right under the pack towards the windscreen. Everything seems to line up enough that it should respond to pressure. I can get one side, even a couple of corners, to sit flush, but then something I can’t see/work out just won’t budge. And as I’m not sure exactly how the thing works, I’m shy about properly thumping it, considering they’re triggered by impact, though if I disconnect the battery again, will that render it completely dormant?

All the blower & resistor info in various threads = just changed it, and the ice blasters are now producing a gentle breeze, and we can have a conversation at the same time. Bloody marvellous. However, what comes out does not necessarily want to go back. Anyone got any top tips about how to get the sodding airbag cover to clip back in? I've lined it up, I've tried every angle, corners first, anything else first, and shoved torches every which way to see what's causing the most resistance, poked at the various lugs and clips to ease them under the lip but no, something just will not go. And please don't say 'just give it a shove', as the angle of the windscreen plus my lack of physical bulk = I can't deploy the little weight I have in the right place. Anyone..? At least the rest of it went OK. To add some more 'things I discovered while deep in the dashboard of a Fabia' to community knowledge: The 3 Torx 27 screws were too deep, and too content to stay where they were, for a regular screwdriver to shift them (also, I'm tiny, so I have to deploy brains where brawn is lacking). Had to cobble together every converter and extension to create length and leverage. I did something similar to @Oldfellah, but rather than rags I used a parking receipt to create a shoot under each Torx screw from the airbag fixing points, as they're helpfully positioned over holes. Levering out the airbag from below makes sense, but was nowhere near as simple as the YouTube video above suggests (though it's still the most helpful one out there for those of us with a top glove compartment). I ended up using one screwdriver to create another, higher pivot point, so I could apply more force from below with the first one. Lost some skin doing that one, despite the gloves. But I'm gonna go and order a set of plastic trim removing tools, as I've got something else to fix now, and as a PP said, it probably would have been easier to take the lid off from the top. The cable that runs to the airbag was attached to a little clip, that was covered up with the insulation, so initially I thought I wasn't going to be able to get the airbag out high enough to even get underneath it. I've posted a photo below. But once it was out, there was enough cable (just) to rest the airbag on the dash and remove the power. It's worth taking photos closer up than you can physically get with your eyes, so you can see exactly eg how the power goes into the resistor pack, so saving time wiggling the wrong bit of black plastic. Just hold on to your phone tightly! And just because it worked, however stupid it looks...

Well, said it would take me a while. But woohoo, 3.5hrs and several dead torches later, and the blowers blow on all settings. THANKS everyone, plus the many YouTubers whose videos I cherry picked, cos having a top glove compartment, and dash passenger airbag to work around, seems to be a bit of a rarity.

OK. Done. Seemed a good balance between top dealership price (over £50) and el cheapo elsewhere £11.50).

Thank you, I'm confident ordering certain bits and spares off t'internet, but electrics/electronics isn't my area so I'm a little more wary. Appreciate the steer.

Shamelessly bumping my own thread, just to re-ask this question 😉