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Yes, but isn't that the 'range'?

So I stumbled across a hilarious and frustrating thing earlier today, before anyone says anything I was literally on my way to the local garage to get diesel after a long journey yesterday. I embarrassingly ran out of fuel in the back end of nowhere with what read on the needle as around 1/8th tank of fuel and 25 miles of range. I wouldn't normally let it get so low but as said before, I was on a long journey yesterday and was in a rush to get home on time. I've heard of other vehicles having a fuel gauge calibration technique in vcds and I was wondering if anyone knew anything on this? It's not a huge issue but I'd like to fix it so if I ever end up in the same situation I could then trust the range a bit more!

no it was the black and yellow for sure! Weird... its still working now... who knows

Nah its like my spare 'brand new' AC compressor for a B7 A4.... Right place at the right time when an opportunity arose... I once got a set of BBS LMs for free off a geezer in Amersham whose interior I was buying for a MK4 golf Sometimes you get lucky, other times life s**ts on you! 😂

It was the blue connector Black/Yellow

Scrap that, I re-soldered it together, heat shrunk around it, switched ignition on and boom, full use of windows and mirrors again. Just got to work out the remote locking fault now and then on to fitting a pas pump I "acquired"

Yeah so I've checked for the 15th time today and found a broken black/yellow cable Any ideas the function of this?

I've only recently bought mine so I don't know... I've heard about the dog bone mount bolt but it's lowered and so i can't easily get under it to check It was another thing I was going to rule out before buying parts

This would be really handy if you wouldn't mind, I think we aren't hugely apart, I could at least rule it out or prove it right (potentially) I removed the sensor to test it a few weeks back as I read somewhere that it would put the PAS into 'emergency mode' and make it work as a way of diagnosing - although that information is questionable... I'll check the data later when I nip to tesco to get dinner

@Breezy_PeteI have checked the channel 44 on vcds if you scroll up I posted currents in certain situations I believe its the pump, certainly electrical. I'm on my way home now and will check the alternator and earths etc and see how we get on

For me, I found my earth battery terminal was loose and as the lamp illuminated for a second before going out I suspect this to not be the case. I know the voltage is correct from alternator but I don't know what current it should output. I should check this myself. I'm sure that our cause for the fault is very likely the same. Hopefully its an alternator as you suggest.

I strongly suspect our issue lays with this reference voltage too low error Problem is , I have absolutely no idea what to look for or where to look anymore.

Sorry for a big message... So I swapped the battery for a known good one (from my old audi) This has good terminals as opposed to the wrecked old ones. No change but will only be a good thing to have sorted this. I don't know if @ScottB832got any further with his fault finding? I've now found a code in my instruments cluster for the power steering... 01309 after a bit of research its for a lack of communications but also says if it's a fabia 6Y then you need a new rack basically. If all other things check out... Worth looking into, mines working fine unfortunately. I've also checked the live data on the section that does work vs the rest of the steering and the pump current is the only thing that changes. Almost as if its not being pulled on when requested... Standard is around 3-8A (as in steering wheel stationary) Dead zone stays the same maybe creeping up to around 11A max Working zone spiked up beautifully to 42-50A when moving.... it seems like a sensor related issue, but the ROSS TECH site tells me to throw a rack at it...

No rush, thank you!

@Breezy_Pete do you have any info on the door wires? I have checked a third time and none of the cables are externally damaged (although they could be internally I guess) But when the brown plug isn't connected I can use the drivers window (only) it drops automatically but then you have to inch it up. The minute the brown cable is plugged in neither work... Is that helpful in any way?

Yeah I tried that also with no luck. It's like the car cannot see any keys at this point... I'm at a loose end now...

Funnily enough, despite having a 'new' battery, my battery light came on earlier then went off Mt symptoms are very similar to yours now also, but sadly my laptop with VCDS on got crushed by a Marshall valvestate amp and the screen is now busted, so I'll have to wait until I can get a new one to progress further. Have you made any progress?

That's the other method but I don't have a second key blade, only remote

No. Using adaptation on VCDS

Well the new key womt program either so I suspect it is a fault in the car somewhere... I'm now going to be looking into the reciever unit

Had checked that a few times but I'll stick a replacement in to be certain 👍

Funnily enough @Breezy_PeteI checked the wiring again quickly on Tuesday before I left to work in Hereford for the week and haven't found anything... BUT i think you might well be correct. i noticed on momday night my electric mirrors dont work on the switch anymore so strongly suspect there's a broken cable somewhere. After reading some other posts on here it would look to be a blue-black cable which would stand more suspect than the others, although it's hard to tell right here. I've got a brand new bottom half of key delivered yesterday, when I get home tomorrow night I'll have a go at programming it again via VCDS, which might tell me something about that fault. Perhaps these two issues aren't related afterall, as was initially suggested by myself and some others online. I'll report back with my findings, sure wish I had a bloody wiring diagram about now to assist in fault finding 🤣

Good point. Ill claim on my insurance at some point to get a second key

Ahh this leads me immediately back to them being locked out by the alarm then, as specified elsewhere! I do agree, the key is the most likely cause for the issue here. To code a new immobiliser pin I will have to pay skoda for the skc won't I? Or pay them to code it for me which I really don't want to do either haha

Brilliant, I'll try the key first, then hunt down a replacement ccm, they don't seem too dear so worst case it might be a handy spare part. Might also explain why my electric windows are showing as not installed, I've checked the cables today (admittedly without my glasses on 😂) and they all seem fine, but before a ccm is ordered I'll check again I've had a small nagging doubt that the reciever unit may have been at fault but it's a tricky one to prove without replacing the key etc first obviously