Tooble

Hello all, Another day, another needlessly expensive project. I was interested in getting more mileage out of the sound system, even after the sizable bump from MIB 1 to MIB 2.5. I ended up reading over on the VW side of things they offer a kit by Helix for those without Dynaudio or in my case CANTON.. Install was very simple, add new radio harness adapter, remove the power pins from the original harness into the new one. Wire down the C-Pillar. Remove the plastic behind the rear passenger side seat belt to run the cable into the boot. The unit needs to be programmed using a speical tool to get the most mileage, Ebay sellers rent these for around £30. As these are designed for mainly the golf, the sound quality before programming isn't convincing to say the least. However after programming, the bass and sound quality boost from the subwoofer and DSP/Amplifier included with the unit is really something to be reckoned with.

They're on aliexpress, there are multiple versions; some do not have the dynamic indicator. here's mine: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005068113713.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.7b69f19cac7oHm

Hello once again everyone, As the title suggests, I’m going for a BCM and Gateway upgrade for my Octavia. Looking to get communication between VC and MIB 2.5 and ambient lighting retrofit. My current part numbers are; 5Q0907530F 5Q0937084AJ The new parts I have; 3Q0907530AC 5Q093784CQ I’ve read on another post, these part numbers should do for what I’m trying to achieve. My new BCM is a “5Q0” still, does this unit still use long coding? I have a VAS5054, Is there a service or guide that can help? Or with enough time and ODIS online, will I be able to parameterise and adapt the new units myself? Thanks everyone, Tooble

Hello all, just to close off this post; I’ve gone ahead and opted to fit 3rd Party LED headlights whilst fixing another issue. Here’s how they look;

They look great still. If it comes up on MOT in a couple weeks, I’ll try solder in a new row of LEDS with green light to create yellow. And yes, they do a light dance. Always when headlights are switched on. very nice when unlocking the car at night, always gets a few wows

Hello, for those searching due to a similar issue. After multiple garage trips and £600, What fixed mine; New passenger drop link £20 for a cheap one… it wasn’t in bad condition but the bottom bearing had lots of dirt ingress. Did the job myself, happy Octavia once again.

Honestly, I was dreading that - not cheap. luckily the fix was much simpler!

Hello all, I’ve had a developing issue with my 2015 Octavia, that’s been progressively getting worse. I’ve just spent around £400 having my full service, aircon and a part of the top suspension replaced. The car makes the noise in the video intermittently when driving or whenever the front end is shook up and down by hand. But doesn’t sound entirely related to suspension If anyone has had a similar issue or knows what it can be and can help, it would be greatly appreciated! https://youtube.com/shorts/zgfqx0qEveI?feature=share

It’s been awhile, life gets like that sometimes… However in my experience, I didn’t need to modify it. How have you you gotten on with the install..?

Another update, error codes are easily removed by changing some adaptions to reflect a factory LED installation. I can include the diagram here but it’s in the ‘Tried and Tested’ adaptions thread. I’ve set my parking lights as DRLs which looks nice for now!

You’re exactly right. I didn’t realise this, thank you! It might just sneak by due to the standard indicator working as normal. If it causes issue for myself, I’ll need to get a soldering iron out…

Hi again Langers, (To my rescue when I start a needless expensive project!) I believe the equivalent scan with OBD11 is a full backup. I’ve included the file here but unsure if it provides enough information. Please let me know! OBDeleven_Log.txt

Hi all, Just a small update I’d like to share. The LED rear lights have arrived and have been installed. Very easy process, just removing T20 screws and installing the new lights into the original halogen connector. Here’s the finished result. The indicators are indeed dynamic, its the upper part of the DRL’s ‘C’ shape. If anybody can advise on the coding of the taillights? I have a ‘Check taillight’ left and right error Thanks All!

Yes, your usb should be fine! I went from the very primitive MIB1. So it’s needed absolutely everything so far!

Hi again, You can use a Stanley knife to just the tab off your connector, it should slot right in. If you’re installing a new usb plug for carplay, you can do the same with that connector too. alternatively, you can replace the cables but is way more costly