ogpuprison

I'd love to raise the height of my vrs but it's a bit of an unnecessary expense I reasoned. Those spacers I've seen, cost about £140 for all 4, to get an extra 30mm...just worried it'll change the handling too much and I'll crash. No doubt the insurers will need to know as well. Roads are really bad after winter as everyone in the UK knows too well

Well, fuses are there for a reason; I said to my mate,'why do we need a fuse between alternator and battery' when the alternator has a regulator.. and he said ' cos the regulator could fail'. Well yeah, but why not carry 4 spare wheels cos you might blow 4 tyres? Sure you get my drift. But it seems more like the cable was burned up and as a result, had burned the insulation off the next cable to it (the 110A car systems cable). Or the other way round. I've driven loads since I repaired it, the cable insulation and fusebox cover all look in good condition, so I'l just keep an eye on it. I did go a scrapyard in cheltenham today and tried pulling an altetrnator cable out of a Golf (07 plate) but it was too hard without any tools. I might go back and get it (<£10 he said) if I can figure out how it comes out. I don't think it's part of a larger loom so should be possible

Actually I didn't take any pictures but here's what's left of the fusebox cover! I've driven about 150 miles since doing it, took a look today ands looks un-melted thus far. It is still hot on the alternator cable side of the new box, sadly...so one day I need to trace the alternator cable and see if there are any other sections that are corroded/exposed/whatever. But the weather is so **** I can't face it right now

...all done, but had to exchange the loop connectors for ones with a 6mm hole. I only cut off about a centimetre as there wasn't much slack to play with; scrubbed up the end, then used flux and solder to reduce oxidation Getting them onto the cable itself was a struggle but they crimped up good. Let's see how long the fusebox lasts this time

Hey thanks! However I'm aware of the alternator cable getting hot and resistance build-up, just wondered if the cable can be cleaned up at the alternator end and if there's a specific resistance I should be aiming for. I' should receive the fusebox tomorrow so intend to risk snipping alternator cable and re-crimping the loop connector. I got some 16mm w/8mm hyole ones, just hope they're up to the job. These crimps didn't state their accepted current, I'm just gonna go for it... if there's enough cable to pull up, that is. If the issue is common it wouldn't surprise me if it's been done ten times before by previous owners! It's crazy that the various fusible links are so close together and their high-current connectors are a bit exposed if you ask me. Do the real skoda hardcore re-route these to ensure a more reliable electrical system? The amount of diagnostic weirdness these fuseboxes and their connectors can cause blows my mind

This is interesting, as I have an issue which may require some alternator work. The alternator fusible link in the battery fuse box has burned up; I only replaced the fusebox a year ago. The fuse link is rated 110A; despite the winter and it's demands on the car's electrical power, I think something else is sucking power causing the fuse to blow. And when people say 'earth fault', I reach for my revolver... finding earth faults in an old car is gonna take weeks! I read somewhere that it's common, the Mk1 VRS blowing alternator fuses. Considering it shuts the car down, I have to sort this out, not just patch it up. I also read there can be arcing to the 110A fusible link, but I'm not sure about this. Something else would cause arcing, no? This is where a VAG scanner would be helpful, but I don't have one. Does anyone know if the alternator belt tension could be causing the problem? I'm sure the alternator itself is fine

Awesome info Dean/ Mike! Taking out the whole assembly sounds a ballache but I've done worse (oil sump removal, door window motors, alternator and mountings). If we ever get some dry weather, I'll go for it. One last thing- if the wipers are at rest when you remove everything, is there any 'lining up' of the motor into the assembly that I need to be aware of? Cos I don't really want to do all this, put it back into the car, then have to take it out again cos the wipers are doing crazy unsynchronised patterns! (hope this makes sense, it's hard to put into words) thanks again

Yes I saw that catalog, with the exploded diagram of the linkage, with the main crossmember(?) refered to as the 'base'. I have no idea whether the motor is old and tired, or the linkage has something restricting movement. I want to buy a complete assembly really, cos someone here said setting up a new motor to a linkage is a pain in the ass. When I had a go at servicing it, I didn't get the whole thing out; I just used a wire brush, isopropyl then silicon grease. And checked the connector. Could be more grit/obstruction round the back which you can't really get to without removal. I think it's the linkage; if I push the wiper arm, it gets it moving. Don't point me in the direction of the relay! That's another can of worms

My wipers packed up miles from home on the night of the snowstorm in December 2025. After 3 hours, the Green Flag dude arrived and got them working in about ten seconds. The rest of the motorway journey is worthy of a movie, but not right now. Few days later, after some useful info from this forum, I accessed the mechanism, cleaned and greased the parts, then all good for two weeks. Then they stuck again, which a sharp tap with a hammer sorted out. However, I don't need this happening to me again, not at 80 on the motorway. So I've been looking on ebay, etc, and boy, it's highly confusing. For a start, should I risk a used motor and linkage, which is probably about the same age as my existing one? Or go for a new motor and linkage, and then have a mare trying to calibrate the motor to the linkage positioning? At this point I'm trying to find the correct parts- my VIN suggests it's a 1U, so am I right in thinking the 1Z motor/linkage won't fit? Cos they're a lot more commonly available. Another forum member said the VRS Octavia (which mine is) has different size arm shafts- anyone know if this is correct? I find it unlikely but what do I know! So it's a minefield. New motors on eBay are listed with compatible OEM codes, and it appears the numbers are the same, whether a Mk1 or Mk2 Octavia. If anyone has a Mk1 VRS and done this repair, I'd be grateful for any info regarding the motor and linkages you used for the job...thanks

yeah, like me. I'll be doing it in 2 days when the part arrives. From a slight leak, it's suddenly turned into a big leak and I have to load up with coolant after 30 mins of driving. I blame a 292 mile trip on the hottest day of the year...pushed it over the edge... About 2 months back I was getting the coolant light coming on regularly, doing my head in, so I did a flush, and used the proper G12 red stuff. Good move, as it left a telltale residue...around the CTS area, so I ordered the flange (06A121132AP). I really hope it's just this that's leaking and nowhere else, or I'm going do something rash

yeah- I was worrying about carrying 210kg of slabs the other week until I read up on this. But the car felt slow and low - even if I had 600kg as acceptable payload, I wouldn't have considered more than 200kg, speed bumps would be painful. My Mk1 is old and sometimes feels like it

Aw f**k man, that's such a shame. Considering the work you've done on it... ...I'd buy it myself but I'm not having a yellow car! All the new **** you've put into it... i'm gonna cry

awesome report. I just installed one , not quite the same method but this guide was invaluable. Took me ages, afternoons standing in the rain soldering and struggling with interior trim fixings and a fck-up which knocked out my instument cluster (just a fuse, no speedo unit surgery). Works well but my rear headliner looks like someone's head has crashed into it...never mind

oops- odometer is ok, I meant the trip computer

This will probably be figured out tomorrow morning, but here goes. I've been trying to install a reversing camera, powering its' trigger by using the centre pins of the lighting cluster. Messed up the wiring so disconnected it all ... so imagine the vehicle is back to how it was before. My fuel gauge has gone bananas, so contant 'low fuel' beeping. swinging from 0 miles to 70 miles of fuel left. Then engine management light stays on. Now the speedo is stuck at zero, and the odometer as a result. Reverse sounder isn't working either. Another thread has an entry referring to the reverse light sharing power with the speedo, etc- which kinda points the finger at me, fcking idiot. The route i took for the camera cabling ran from the rear hatch handle, up the passenger side of the hatch to the roof, and i took a power lead from the left rear light (centre pin) and ground from the bodywork along the passenger side. Sure I poked some wires when getting through the hatch cable shroud which goes to the roof, but its unlikely I punctured the insulation. Any thoughts on how to go about resolving this, and have I possibly blown something along the way? how does it all go together? And what's that bolt and wiring directly underneath the left rear light cluster? Car is a VRS 2005

.....are you still going then?... Hope it didn't blow up the car and yourself. Interesting, I didn't consider that previous remaps could lock the ECU, explains why the skoda guy near me didn't rip me off when I went for a remap- it had already been done he said. Guess I would have noticed the (lack of) difference if he'd done nothing and charged me...

just done this job-Bowders' write-up made it so much easier. I used Dirko HT sealant which is an approved VW silicon-thing; and fired up the engine after about 40 minutes/ No leaks, no warning lights- all good i hope. Didn't notice any change in performance, etc, but will see today, 24 hours later. Worst bit was the gearbox bolts, and the oil filter was a m***f**r to remove

dunno but I want to do the same with my vrs, even though everyone thinks I'm nuts. My mechanic mate says it's totally possible but cornering won't feel the same.

Awesome work. I have the same model, black one-I'm in the Midlands so I may well see you about before long!! No way can I afford the work you've been doing, nor do I have the skills ...although I've done a bit. Great thread as it gives loads of hints and ways of getting around problems

This has just happened to me too - got a stick and guide for £14 off ebay. The guy at the VAG garage said it needs doing, as if the seal is bust (think he's referring to the pipe part) there's an air leak- which gives incorrect info to the MAF sensor so your turbo and engine assumes there's more air than there is... so the car will run rich, etc.....sorta makes sense. Not looking forward to replacing it though, sounds a mare

This. I'm going through this first flush of love feeling right now with my mk1 vrs. I haven't had decent car for ages, my audi a4 avnt 1.8 was nice but I didn't have enough money to improve it at the time. Before the vrs I had a nissan primera (which I personally like) but it got smashed up 3 times in a year when my missus used it too, so when I got out and looked back, it looked like it had been in Kherson for 6 months

Thank you. Yeah-wrong diagram. Got it done over the weekend and cleaned the throttle valve thing too (which was clean so needn't have bothered). I got a mate to help. who knows cars inside out- and he managed the break the alternator tensioner as he was moving it. I kept cool, and managed to pick one up on a sunday for £55 which meant no money for him! Anyway, all good now, it was good to get a good look underneath, etc... no leaks or obviously worn parts. So I'm more likely to get a remap done now I know it's not in a shoddy state... cos a remap is pointless if there are leaks and clogged-up parts everywhere

Although that's a MK2 engine

i know, I shouldn't have used that image I'll be in the **** with someone ...but it's the way I intend to go for it