medley

i dont know why scala han no options to delete doors automaticaly locking when driving off my previos vw"s had an option to delete that funcion so the doors dont loc automatically so boring does softeare functions/glitches.....do you all remember when the cars ehere simple? I wonder why my infotainment system on golf mar6 (touch screen) works flawlessly despite being 15 years old....and scala`s is not so good (on tiguan 2022. was better infotainment which didnt so often tell something is not available)

thats the reason why I will never buy again car that belongs to VAG group - I am dissapointed with services and their relations to the customers (with this car and the previous vw car) the quality is not the strong point in vw group cars either

that is a problem I drive the car once a day with 2 starting and it happens cca every 14 days I think you have a real problem and should try some other service shop

it happens to me (Scala) every cca 14 days I dont care, I am used to it Its just like that nowadys When I had tiguan (2022) there was no so much of it (only at the beginning) I guess the eproblem is because sistem is not getting wireless software, or the xause is connection to the internet or phone

For example i have another old car 1.6 petrol without turbo You can feal vibration on the clutch - but they are less pronounced - there is no rev hang - and it is a 4 cylinder so it is smooth If you press clutch on 3 cylinder with hand while in neutral.....it vibrates a lot.....thank God the foot is not as sensitive as hand

Andymann i have sent you pp. On the other hand if this problem is not a problem but only question of drivers comfort what would be the cause of it and jerky start sometimes: - big turbo on small engine that doesnt work until 2.000 rpms and than acts to strong giving sense that you cannot figure out if you have given too much or too litle throtle - 3 cylinders that make vibration without antivibration avtion - rev hang when changing gears caused by heavy DMF

Hi Andymann I did ask my dealer wi thout being there with my car - they said it isnt a common thing Since I had problem with my previous car which was 10 months old and then tried to sort it out while on warranty I realized that they dont have a clue to do nothing but they change parts and the problem stays the same and further more, while they are performing actions and trying to sort the problem out they ruin the car further more. Long story short: 1. I dont have confidence in giving them the car to see whats wrong because: A. they will say it is a feature not a bug, 2. they will say that the factory doesnt think it is a problem, 3. they will try to sort the problem out without sorting anything/changing parts that dont have to be changed and the problem will persist (this happened to prevoius car) because they must do everything according what factory says 2. on internet other TRoc, Tcross, Taigo, Fabia, Scala, Kamiq forums there is same problems and the problem might be in clutch pump, or something that pushes the cluttch onto DMF, or clutch pedal which is made of plastic, or master cylinder/slave cylinder on clutch 3. most of the people that tried to solve it through the dealership went on taking the car few time to the dealerships who did something or nothing and in 80% of cases the problem was not resolved 4. in a way it is all happening because it is a 3 cylinder and has some vibrations as an engine + it is fitted with the heavy DMF that tries to calm those vibrations (this engine doesnt have antaxle vibration) so in a way it is a nature of this car 5. the only problem if we are not talking about our comfort is if the clutch burns/goes off.....it will not be a warranty thing and factory/dealership will not repair the car without us paying the cost of it (wich is anything between 1.500 and 2.500 EUR so a lot) clutch might be under warranty job just if the car is below 6 months old and below 10.000 km It is the only thing that I disslike about the car. Everything is like you post it. I even felt it a little less on the other Troc produced in 2022. Mine solution and what I will do: A. I am not going to the dealership to solve it. it is because above the mentioned in 3., and because in previous car I tried everything, they didnt solved it and I ended selling the car and loosin a lot of money (it was not 1.0 TSI and it was not manual gearbox). B. if something fails within my comfort of using the clutch and clutch starts really to fail and so on...I will take it to the dealer and try to get it as warranty job without paying for it C. if it happend like in B. and they say I have to pay for the job because it is not a warranty thing - I will go elswhere to the non offcial mechanic to pay less and I dont care for warranty because warranty is only to pay high prices for regular servicing So, it is all based on what I have read on Internet, and I read it on daily bases reading all english and italian forums about this problem Since I had problem with previous car if it is not broken I will not take repairs as granted because it could lead me to A. not be repaired, B. being worse tjhan before, C. me selling again car with great loss So mine opinion is based on what happened to my previous car and on what I find on the Internet. about it. What I thing it would be solution to the problem: - new clutch pump (I read that a few months ago they initiated to put new designed clutch pump - even new clutch pedal It is not a solution to let the dealership change any parts they want....they often tell the clutch is gone and you have to pay extra, and the problem is not in the clutch plate but in the master cylinfder of the clutch/clutch pump There are 4-5 things they could change without solving the problem and while doing that you could be the one to pay it or they wil 1-3 times diddadeble the clutch and will ruin your new car. Excuse me for writing it "bold" but this is a real preoblem: if the clutch burns you are paying it, they will pay it only if it happened because of something else /ckutch pump), but belive me, they will make it look like it is because of your driving style and not because of the fail in production....if the clutch burns because of something else (which is here a real problem - they must pay it, but how can you get a proof that it is a production fail???) Mine car has now just over 3.500 km. Could you be kind to write and post here after you visit your dealership what they have said to you. I wold appreciat it I hope I could be understood in mine writing because english is not mine mother language.

to get to the connectors I guess it has the airbag to be removed? but the clockspring and the steering wheel doesnt have to be removed?

Thnx so the connectors for the lower 2 buttons that boder me (2 times so far) are those 2 white on your picture on the left yesterday afternoon, today 3 times that did not happen again I will see if it happens again it would be easier if they would stop working for good and not so intermitent - than the dealer could take care of it if i show up at the dealers and they are working - day can/could do nothing, they will say that everything is ok, and even from my point of view it is better not let them touch or dismantle the steering wheel in that case because they will ruin something else (at least scratch the steering wheel) on the internet i didnt find anyopne had this problem with this new type of skoda`s steering wheel

on 25 th December and today, steering wheel buttons only on the right side on the bottom (the ones to change left to right icons on MFI) dontrespond after I shut down the car and start it again all fine - everything works So, only those 2 buttons on the bottom (the one that can be scrolled works, as well as the one above it) on the left side of the steering wheels all buttons work if i turn the steering wheel from side to side it doesnt effect this problem ist it possible for new cars to have so much software glitches? because it is obviously not problem with buttons themselves, not with the clockspring, no light on the dash, and everything else works.... I dont know if it happened before because I rearly push those buttons (now when the glitch occured, I press them on a daily basis to see when it happens) on the car diagnosis in the official service can they track those glitches only buy giving them exact data, mileage and time when it happened, or the diagnosis work and show problems only if the problems occure while the diagnosis is connected to car?

Because sometines when oil is new there is hard to see where it goes on the dipstick.....it is visi le for sure only with light pointed at it because it tends to go lower.....maybe because of this many people overfill the oil.....on the max range of the dipstick new oil seem so thin that hardly covers cross hatch.....so i adwise all to be carefull not to overfill the oil

Rooted, i read Briskoda for years.....and decided to write only when i bought Skoda for myself.....so, I consider your writing very informative and full of knowledge for years. Thank you for that. And please excuse my english as it is not my mother ongue/language....i come from the little country about 3 hours flying from UK

I guess when on operating temperature we could say that the liwest point where oil should be is about at half of the cross hatch.....and that in this case it should be topped.... I top always little by little because if hard to say where the minimum oil mark is, than it is not considered wise to top instantly with 0,5 litre or more of oil

On operating temperature i will keep it on top of the cross hatch.....the oil itself is not so easy to read as it is thin and bright when new.....and from mine previous experience when engine is cold it should be around 60 percent of the cross hatch. This night as i have passed 1.000 km will push on the highway bit further with rpms the engine and give it a spin for next cca 180 kilometers, and than 2 more times like that in the days that will follow so the running in procedure is over.....meanwhile i will check the oil and get to know where itbis on cold engine and where on the operating temperature engine....keepingbit always on top of the cross hatch. With previous car 1.5 tsi i had problem with light on the dash saying reduce the oil level and i didnt top the oil on that car....so i am carefull not zo top the oil over its maximum

Even in neutral if i press clutch wile giving throttle at the same time there are slight pulse.....i say pulse because if not checked by hand it cannot be called vibration....so clutch is ok while dont touched and not pressed, and when pressed for the first third or half of the movement with rpms increased it pulses....if rpms are on idle it doesnt pulse if pressed.....i guess it is normal and will for now consider it as a characteristic of my car.....hopefully it will not go bad....

Because on picture Rooted pisted it seems there are 3 types of dipsticks and i guess mine is the first one.....so i will stick to the with the triangles indicated part of dipstick

I have put 150 ml of oil. Now when on operating temperature it is almost on top of the place indicated with triangles on dipstick. Owners manual drives me crazy....i dont know for sure which would be section A on mine dipstick

also, while I am a fan of being important of running in the engine, everything these 1,000 km was done according to the owners manual I drove car in every condition on purpose with a lot of gear changes, and going up and down the rpms within the limit prescribed with owners manual (I didnt pass the 3.500 rpms) and the car was driven so far only for purpose of running it in (1.000 km was done in some 7 days each day a bit) Mine car when revving up feels much smoother than same Scala I test drove and more linear in revving up and the only "issue" I have so far is that a would say "spoongy" feeling on clutch pedal - because the vibration on the foot feels like something spoongy - vibration is to strong word, because in order to find out what was boddering me, I have put my hand on clutch pedal and pressed it when driving and then I noticed those vibrations when clutch pedal is slightly pressed so, vibrations would be pressing by foot more likely be described as spoongy, springly feeling, rubbing rubber on rubber

Scala my23, with 1.000 km from day 1 there is a slight vibration on the clutch pedal in these circumstances only: - when changing gear up (not down) on rpm higher tan cca 2.000-2.500 rpms - only noticable when I initiate to press the clutch pedal (when pressed 1 inch toward carpet) - the pedal is not vibrating when fully pressed or fully released - vibration is a feel on foot, not sound gear changes are smooth, car does not vibrate when on idle, everything is fine.....just that feel on the foot.....i thought at first it was the rubber on the pedal against my shoe that makes that feeling, but when driving if i put my hand on the clutch pedal (its strange I know), and I push the pedal a litlle bit by hand it feels that it vibrates (not shaking, just a feel) - with increasing rpms it vibrates more, if rpm drop, the vibration is less noticable) Should I worry? Is it a characteristic of the car and I have been too sensitive ? (I am sensitive and had bad experiences with new cars, and I notice everything) I think - since it is the 3 cylinder car, the vibrations from the engine ass to the gearbox and they must be felt somewhere, right? I drove fabia my23 1.0 tsi manual 70kW - the whole car was shaking at idle, when stopped on the traffic light, maybe my concern about the scala is too much? Thnx for the help, I appreciate that.

Thnx.......if engine cold oil level is at 1/2 between min and max when oil is on operating temperature oil is at 2/3 between min and max My dipstick looks as on the 1. picture (from 3 above in line) posted by. Mr. Rooted So I will add a litle bit of oil, just a little bit (1/10 od 1 litre) and than chek it again

1. Skoda oil iz GS60577F2EUR 2. Oil for the entire vw group is GS60577M2EUR i suppose they are the same sorry for 3 posts....didnt know how to put it in 1 post....

whats the difference between: 1. the oil marked as Skoda oil: https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/engine-oil-1l-longlife-4-0w-20-vw-50800-50900-oil-gs60577f2-eur and 2. the oil I bought from mine late car: https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/vag-16148059.html I have this 2. oil, is it good for Skoda? I cannot see the difference between those two oils, the first one only has Skoda sticker, am I right?

I bought new scala from the day 1 when I have first checked oil level when the engine is on operating temperature and the car was only 70 km on clock oil level was about on 3/4 level betwenn min and max yesterday car had 800 km....and the oil level is same - 3/4 between min and max after beiong on operating temperature and checked 10 min after shutting down the engine I didnt check the oil level when car/oil is cold. Oil (0-20) is very thin and not easy to read it on stick. Scala is 1.0 tsi 110 ps, producet a month ago (in 9/2023) Under the bonnet is said on the sticker that the oil is 0-20, 508 00/509 00 I have a bottle of oil genuine VW 50800/50900 SAE0w 20 Longlife IV FE that I bought at the dealers for mine previous car (vw 1.5 tsi my23) Is this oil good for scala? Should I top of the oil just a little bit? I am in process of running in the engine so I wonder what is best for the car. Thnx

Hi, been reading Briskoda for long time. And i decided to be active on forum as i just bought Scala 1.0 tsi 110 ps, manual transmission in trim level called here in my country as Inspire which would be SEL I belive. Cheers!