Besters

I've experienced the same problem but only when pulling away from a crawl at say an island where you're in 2nd gear, there's not even a gradual pickup when you want power, it gives it in one shove after what seems like an age just as others have said. This I find dangerous. It's well reported by lots of Kodiaq drivers on social media. The Carista setting hasn't made any difference on my car. With overtaking at speed I can easily plan for that. Pedal boxes do have good reviews but you need to fork out £200 to find out.

Hi all, I have a strange flat spot when pulling away in 1st gear and turning right or left 90 degrees from a junction, it occurs at about 1400rpm whether the engine temps are hot or cold. Car is a 2014 2.0 tdi manual gearbox. Any pointers to what is causing this? Initial thoughts point to the cornering lights causing this but I still have the problem in daylight. Thanks for any help. Dave

Made a return visit to the tuner, they took a look and showed me lots of play in the dogbone mount so that's next on the list. There was also some noise from the flywheel but that'll be a last resort. Not ruled out the inner CV joints though.

Thanks for the recommendations, I bought these...... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125657303929?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pkjxvnqttfo&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Q5JBmKFXQpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Decent quality for the cost.

I did suspect the flywheel and so did my tuner but wanted to put it down to the last resort with it being the most expensive swap. I'm in it for the long term with this car so if it needs swapping then that's what I'll do. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'm back at the tuner Saturday morning to have a more thorough check over and have the map put back on. I'll certainly ask them to check the CV joints. Did you have the vibration in all gears?

Having done some Internet research there are some instances where the haldex propshaft damper could have failed? Maybe there are worn engine mounts exacerbated by the remap?

It has improved the overall driving experience and has plenty of go throughout the rev range. Car is on 73k miles.

Hello all, Last week I had my 2014 Superb 140 2.0TDi remapped by a reputable tuner. Since then I'm getting vibration between 2-2.5k rpm at mostly full throttle in gears 3,4,5, and 6. The higher the gear, the worse it gets. It's a manual box with 73k miles. Today I took it back for investigation and had the previous map installed, the vibration has vastly reduced but hasn't totally disappeared, I can't remember having the vibration before the remap but maybe it was there but seemed normal? The tuner checked for anything obviously loose but found nothing. The flywheel has been suggested as causing the problem and I'm inclined to agree as the vibration occurs when most torque is being output. I did have the Haldex pump changed at the same time as the remap but I doubt this is causing it. Anyone had similar or can offer any cause? Thanks

Good to know, thanks.

Excellent! I'll order a set. Thank you very much indeed.

Hello all, My centre caps are looking a bit tired, are these just a self adhesive badge or do I need the whole centre cap? Thanks

Just had a read, info about battery production date is useful, seems the old battery is the original so it's done well, managed 73k miles and 8 years old. Thanks for your help.

I did query the lack of BEM code on my battery, here is the reply from Tayna.

I've got no new fault codes so I'll see how it goes. The start/stop is now working.

When I came to do the coding, module 61 didn't give me the option to change anything so had to go through module 19. According to the Ross Tech you tube video, there is a drop down menu that selects address 04 but there wasn't an option in the drop down so had to select 04 manually. This showed what was already stored and you can see it in the photo, not what I was expecting. Anyway I kept the format and changed to the new battery. Can anyone confirm this is correct as it goes against the you tube video? Thanks Yes, just pull upwards.

Fitted my new battery just now, easier than I thought. Once the top cover is off you can get good access to the clamp. I pulled off the front half of the surrounding plastic cover and once the terminals are disconnected, it lifted out easily. The jacket came out with it and slid off and onto the new battery. I inserted the new battery with it's jacket on, more space than I thought. The jacket is fairly rigid so stays in place. Refitted the front half of the surround, again easily.

Done some research, I think the label is missing? Should be stuck to the White patch on the right hand side?

Battery arrived today but no serial number for coding on it anywhere unless my eyesight is playing tricks?

I have VCDS, will give it a go. Thanks.

Yep already checked dims, will order today. Thanks again for your quick reply. Did you code it after fitting? Thanks

Thanks for the quick reply. I believe this is the one I need? https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

Hello all, My battery is about to die, any recommendations for a good replacement? I've bought from Tayna batteries in the past and had good service, was looking at Halfords range as I can collect today but read some bad reviews about their own brand. Thanks

I bought the genuine Skoda LED lights and have come to do the coding but it's not accepting the security access code 31347. Anyone know what the problem is? Thanks.

Thanks 😊