CzechPassat

The expansion tank where you top it up with water are a weak spot on these, I have changed a few, worth a good look around there. As it's a 2008 car, I'd also suspect the radiator if it hasn't been replaced.

Update I fitted the replacement master cylinder, not the most pleasant job as you need to remove the knee airbag and part of the dash, then access to the Master Cylinder from inside the engine bay is very poor so you scratch your forearm up. Once fitted I could get fluid to bleed through the system and managed to get a working clutch pedal. The pedal is still a bit low because there's still some air in the system. The local garage are MOT'ing the car tomorrow and will bleed the clutch again (there's a knack to it) while I wait. Diagnosis was faulty master cylinder.

My current “project” car is a cat N Superb because of the damage in the pictures. A full set of secondhand rear lights is £100, rear bumper £100, possibly less if I shop around, to fix the two small dents, paint the boot lid and bumper £300, total £500 to repair. The pre accident value of the car would have been about £2.5k, I paid £800 for the salvage. There are huge savings to be made against computerised bodyshop quoting systems.

Found the answer myself. all the pics on the internet showed it at the back of the engine bay at the LHD, but it’s just at the back of the rocker cover on this model. Seems no coding is required.

The software most body shops use does indeed do all the work of estimating and uses full price costs for everything. For instance without even looking it will cost for new headlamps at whatever the main dealer price would be when the ones you have may be repairable, it will quote for an entire new bumper including all the mountings and reinforcements when it may only just need the protective cover, things that can’t be seen without dismantling to look. My recent experience involved my sons car which had side damage. The insurance co estimated the damage at £4.5k and wanted to write it off, we went elsewhere and got a quote for £2.5k which the insurance co then settled for. A £7.5k repair would have to include all new exterior panels forward of the windscreen, headlamps, full radiator pack and front panel. I just don’t see that much damage from the pictures. While I have considerable experience of repairing can N snd cat S vehicles the repair costs just don’t add up to me. Can I ask what the pre accident value and the buyback figures were?

Having seen the very minor damage to your Superb my advice would be to retain the salvage and get a local garage to repair it with a combination of new/used parts, that way you'd end up with a car you like, which you know the history of, you'd probably end up with money in your pocket rather than out of pocket as well. If you weren't so far away I'd offer to give you a few hundred on top of the buyback value and have it myself as it looks like a really nice example. But to answer your question, mileage is no guarantee of condition, I've had terrible low mileage cars and great high mileage cars, it all depends on how well it's been looked after, driven and maintained. There are so may Superbs being run as taxis in the UK, I'd take that as an indication that they can soak up the miles. But if you're not mechanically minded my advice would be to buy the newest and lowest mileage car you can afford. Paying more for a higher spec car won't make it any more reliable and the higher spec just adds complexity and increased liability of future repairs.

It doesn't just pop out. The clutch master cylinder isn't that easy to get to so I was hoping for some inspired help from someone who had been there before. The bottom of the dash needs to come out to get to the pedal, then the pedal complete with Master Cylinder comes out as one unit, but before that you need to remove the 2 pipes connected to the master cylinder and the electrical connector from inside the engine bay behind the engine. In all my years working on cars I've never come across or even heard of a blockage in a clutch or brake pipe, it's a sealed system, so it would be rather difficult for something to get in there to block the pipe. I've ordered a new master cylinder anyway, they are cheap enough, just a faff to fit.

I have tried the gravity method, nothing comes out. there is no way of getting any fluid out of the bleed nipple. When the pedal is in the lower position the master cylinder is closed and it's not possible to get fluid through the master cylinder, hence my statement that the cylinder was closed. So yes, it appears that the piston is stuck in the depressed position blocking the fluid port. I didn't raise the clutch pedal from the floor, the car came to me like that so I don't know what someone else has done. I've checked the pushrod, is not flapping around it still seems attached to the master cylinder.

I have the P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 Signal Too High on my 2010 1.9tdi. Two questions: 1. Where is it? 2. Does it need coding? I've seen that some of them do need coding but not sure if necessary on this model?

Agent327 is in France and had a LHD vehicle. As yet nobody has confirmed where it's located on a RHD vehicle

I just bought another Superb 2, this one came with the clutch pedal stuck on the floor, it's possible to pull it up again but as soon as you depress it, it just goes down to the floor with no resistance. I thought it might be the slave cylinder so changed that but I can't bleed it, in fact I can't get any fluid through the slave cylinder at all. I've tried every method of bleeding that there is including trying to suck fluid through the bleed nipple with a Sealey brake bleeder, suction pump and even reverse bleeding by syringing fluid in through the bleed nipple, there is no may of getting fluid out of or in to the bleed nipple. My theory is that the Master Cylinder has jammed in the closed position thereby blocking fluid going in or out of the system. I'm sure someone has had this problem before, so is master cylinder failure or something with the pedal?

No, I’m still trying to find out which seat the relay is underneath?

I'm sure someone did a risk assessment and decided that the risk to life of going in to limp mode at the drop of a hat while negotiating a T junction, entering a roundabout or on-slip joining a motorway was far less than the very marginal environmental impact of an EGR valve not working properly. Of course someone a little more cynical might think it's just a good way of creating more revenue for VW workshops.

I don't have first hand experience of buying these parts for a Superb but it's worth checking with the local Skoda dealer parts department as the wing support is probably available new and may not be as expensive as you'd imagine. I've been here with a Fabia 1 a few years back and the dealer could supply anything.

I must have cursed it by saying it had been reliable for a while, EML on again, EGR failed again. Quite why a failed EGR has to force the car into limp mode every time is beyond me!

Thank you

I've been here with my Passat B6 2.0 Tdi, same engine, same set of problems. Long story short. my Passat 2.0 Tdi engine was not the most reliable despite what other's experience might be, maybe I've been unlucky. I've had just about every sensor, the turbo actuator, the EGR valve replaced at points when the DPF and/or EML/Glowplug lights have come on, throwing the engine in to limp mode. I think the only relevant parts that haven't been replaced so far are the injectors and the turbo itself. Eventually I came out the other side and haven't had any problems for a couple of years now, so it really was just a case of successive failures. I've replaced the B6 Passat with a superb 2.0Tdi in the belief that I just had a run of bad luck. I've been running mainly VAG and BMW vehicles for the last 15 years or more. The VAG cars seem to throw a code and go in to limp mode at the slightest thing, the BMWs throw a code, the EML comes on but it doesn't just go straight in to limp mode. I drove a BMW 330d with the DPF light on for 6 months before I worked out what the issue was, didn't have to force a regen, just fixed the issue, it did a regen on its own with no ill affect.

That would be great thank you

Quite likely. Does anyone know if the relay is below the right or left seat in a RHD car so I can check that as well?

I now believe there is one module and that it does both sides, but I can't positively identify which side of the car it's on. I've seen pics of it on the left and I've seen pics that look like it's on the right but it may depend on whether it's LHD or RHD. I don't want to be either cutting the carpet of doing a huge amount of dismantling only to find it was on the other side. Failure of both heated seats seems to be common, mine is just the driver's seat that doesn't work which seems not to fit with it being the module, maybe it's the element in the seat? Guess I need to find that module first, but is it under the driver or passenger seat in a RHD car?

Nobody seems to really know much about this unfortunately

Any ideas? Someone must know?

I'm still working on this but have hit a couple of issues. 1. It's just the (RHD) driver's seat heating that doesn't work on my car, most of the threads I've seen relate to both seats not working and a problem with the relay, but I'm not clear if there is one relay for each seat or one relay does both sides? Maybe I don't have a problem with the relay? 2. Is the relay/relays on the left or right side of the car or both sides (one for each seat) 3. I've taken a Passat B6 to pieces at the scrap yard today and couldn't find the relay on either side, does anyone know where the relay/relays are on a B6 Passat as they use the same part number?

OK, as nobody had an answer.... I applied masking tape around the flap and used some gentle persuasion with a nylon trim removal tool, took about 20 mins of locking, unlocking, gentle levering and thumping, eventually it came free. Changing the lock itself was the easy bit, took about 10 minutes. I cheated slightly, didn't remove all the trim in the boot, just cut and joined the wire with solder and heat shrink.

OK, Just having this problem with my 2010 Superb estate, luckily it has nearly a full tank of fuel, only discovered the issue because I was looking for the tyre pressures! 2 days of wiggling and I still cant open it, I've ordered a new catch from the dealer and it should be here in 2 days (just under £40). Does anyone know how I can open this without causing any damage as the wiggle and fidget method doesn't work?