CJXA

You get a torque reduction during normal shift (usually ignition retard, but can be other ways as well). During lc dsg is using amax mode when clutches are being used for rpm match. In general Dq381 from stock is smooth, but doesn't have the snappy feeling like Dq250. That's just the way it is. If you keep pushing it, it should become quicker. Cvt feels like crap because it's completely smooth.

Is this launch control start? Why did the service perform adaptation? Did you have any complaints?

You don't need a diesel car. More to that I suggest to change your preferred garage as the current one seems to be unable to perform a proper diagnostic. Diagnostic does not end with fault code reading.

Worth to pay a visit to decent diagnostic service.

Full moon is close....

Did manage to find it in Octavia IV, FPA coding bits are under adaptation Driver profile selection (which makes sense). None of the freewheel related bits were active, but the car still coasts. I expect the FPA config work only in case you have an actual drive mode selection, which I don't.

True, but I'm now driving 5th Skoda and completely all previous ones suffered from corrosion already within first 4 years. Rear door edges, rear wing edges, rear arches. Same story with other company Skodas. As I said - you get what you pay for.

Is this your first Skoda? I've been driving Skodas as company cars daily for 13 years now. All have been c**p in terms of paint work resistance to stone chips and corrosion. Yeti in 2011 had such quality job that big chunks of paint were falling of the doors. At least that was warranty covered and car was repainted all the way around from bottom to door moldings. Few years later boot lid and rear wheel arches started to corrode It's an improvement nowadays, but still you get what you pay for.

Oil ash has to be measured in volumetric units. For 2.0 the factory threshold is around 0.18l.

Haven't tried this also, but after a brief googling it seems to be a non 100% solution as some people are reporting coasting to remain active. This would not surprise me, vag is constantly removing all possible user interactions with emissions related systems. I've definitely seen this coding option in pre fl superbs. This morning hooked up obd11 to my IV octavia, unfortunately very few gateway coding bits were labeled, none of which were related to coasting, have to check it with vcds sometime later. Although, as i told before, coasting for 100% can be enabled or disabled in the TCU software for any mode.

You have a 2016 car, it's 2024 now, what did you expect? Most likely your shock absorbers are done, it's a wear part after all. DCC Monroes are fairly cheap, if you don't order them from vag dealership. Set of 4 can be sourced under 700 EUR.

Coasting can't be just coded out with obd11 or vcds, you have to alter the tcu software. Although it's actually a simple bit switch and can be enabled in any mode, even in Sport.

It's somewhat surprising how many of the "garages" are disabling the EGR for no particular reason. There is a widespread misconception of sole purpose of the EGR system as such - the EGR re-routs exhaust gasses to be burned again. In fact the EGR is used for two main reasons that may seem to contradict to each other - to help heat up the engine during warmup process and to reduce the combustion chamber temperature during normal operation. The second is the most important one. With lowering the combustion temperature, soot and NOX emissions are also significantly decreased. Therefore it makes completely no sense to rip out a fully operational EGR system even though the DPF has been removed. But if you remove the EGR, then you must remove the DPF as well because it will simply be overloaded and clogged soon enough due to reasons explained above.

Additional electrical load puts also an additional mechanical load on the engine and therefore ecu rises the idle rpm to compensate. Not all "tuners" perform a correct de-dpf and de-egr procedure, more to that - many of them even don't do the actual ecu dump calibration, they just read it out and in best case send it to outsourced guy or company. Worst case - they just download an already pre-done file somewhere. On the internet you can actually get a dpf_egr_off.exe that "does" everything for you. You would be very surprised how many of them are actually working in this manner. Oil ash should be read out as a volumetric unit. For 2.0 diesel the max threshold is ~0.18l. Oil ash amount can't be measured, instead it's a counter built into the software and actually has no direct correlation with physical condition of the dpf. Differential pressure and soot amounts are that tells you something. Although there are few things that can be extrapolated from the oil ash amount - and those are the approx. actual mileage or condition of the engine. For correctly working engine it refers to 250+k km (depending on driving conditions) and at max oil ash volume the dpf can still be very much alive and fit to duty. Other option is too frequent regenerations, which usually are the consequences of some problem, that invokes increased amount of soot production. Counter can be easily reset via vcds or obd11 by activating the dpf replacement basic setting.

The diff can be rebuilt, no need to buy a completely new one. Could be noisy bearings, but for sure it needs to be disassembled for proper diagnose. I suggest you to find a company that rebuilds gearboxes, they most of the cases can rebuild differentials.

Theoretically it should be the same. But what exactly happened with the rear diff/haldex?

Dear Gentlemen, Superb with CJXA engine and DQ250 0D9 gearbox with 78k km. Downshift while braking seems to be too rough, especially 5 - 4, 4 - 3 and 3 - 2. Extremely pronounced when gearbox oil is still cold. I'm not talking about some slight engine braking, but serious bumps. I've owned 3 dsg cars with different gearboxes and driven a couple with Dq250. I just refuse to believe that this is normal. All other have been more or less smooth in normal D mode. Local dealer recorder the complaint and even replaced clutch pack under goodwill warranty, but unfortunately the problem is still there. Has anyone had this kind of issue with 280 Dq250 superb or similar vag car? But please, without smart-a** comments. I know what is dsg and how it works.

So how's the 245/40? Do you notice any difference in ride comfort?

I don't know the exact TPI number, but I did go through the same thing recently. My car still had valid warranty, but the dealer mentioned recall.

There is a factory recall regarding this kind of noise from vents. It involves disassembly of whole front panel and flap gears lubrication.