Jo88Mak

I examined my original rocker cover closer, i popped of the PCV cap and took a look at the membrane. I had 225tkm on the dash and few months over 11 years with the original rocker cover. To me it seemed okay, no tears or holes etc and it had good elasticity still. Also the spring that operates it felt and looked okay also. Also noticed that the injector well seals were really snug fit, couldnt get them off with just fingers, maybe they are glued on in the original cover? If i remember right, the aftermarket cover seals weren't that tight fit but still okay in my opinion, seated good.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any pictures of the original and aftermarket PCVs? Do you mean the membrane inside the cover, in the right corner behind injector #4. I had a leaking rocker cover last year that I fixed with a new aftermarket one purchased from skoda-parts, i think it was AIC-brand. The price difference versus a new original one was atleast two times cheaper. When compared side by side it felt good quality. Didn't check the condition of the PCV-membrane from neither rocker cover. I stashed the original rocker cover if i happen to need it for some reason, there wasnt any cracks or deformations that i could see, maybe the seals had lost their elasticity over the years (11 at the time of removal). What i am seeing is that after hard driving i can see some fine oil mist residues around the injector well oil seals on top of the rocker cover, and im almost certain it is motor oil not diesel fuel coming from the injector fuel line pipes. Makes me think that maybe the aftermarket rocker cover doesnt have same quality seals that the original factory one had. Thinking of trying to reseal the cover with new original quality seals or reseal the original rocker cover and put it back in place. Should also check the PCVs condition from both covers. Any ideas?

Any update on the oil consumption Sharpy?

Hi. I believe there are two different makers of the original cooling system that these cars left the factory, Valeo or Denso. Other makers can of course make parts to these systems according to the specs, but i believe that you cant mix Valeo and Denso system parts together. You should go to skoda-parts.com and make an account where you can enter your own cars VIN-number to check which parts are the correct ones for your car. I am using this method for sourcing spareparts for my mk3 Octavia and it works great.

Ok, you dont find it too stiff going over speedbumps etc? The handling and body roll is for sure much improved. How much was the car lowered from the original setup? Did you have to get shorter bumpstops for the new shorter b8 shocks or did they come with them?

Ok, you dont find the ride too firm? I'm considering b8+eibach pro or b6 with oe-specced eibach replacement line springs. Its my daily so wouldnt want too firm ride.

Glad you got it sorted out. How do you find the ride with new parts and bilstein eibach combo? Is it the bilstein b12 kit with b8 shocks and eibach pro springs? Im also thinking of replacing/upgrading my shocks and springs but still havent decided. Also with the fuel prices skyrocketing it doesnt make me feel good throwing much money in the old but reliable diesel Vrs.

Interesting, with my car i have done some "preventive" maintenance and it would seem that dpf cleaning is one thing to consider also. As I said earlier i have now almost 250kkm or 155t miles on the dash and the dpf is original and never been cleaned before. I dont have any symptoms yet with dpf clogging but maybe im asking when would i need to do that job? When the regens happen more frequently and there is a dpf warning light on the dash, maybe? I have now and then checked with obd11 the distance last travelled before a regen has occured and i would say its in between 250-400km depending of my everyday driving trips. Is this normal distance between regens? In the Octavia 3 its a big job to get the dpf out of the engine bay, you have to drop the subframe, thank god i dont have all-wheel drive, even more job involved.

Is the engines ECU making more frequent dpf regens when the ash load value is closing the maximum of 80g? Even if the dpf wasnt really that full at all? I would think that its a precaution to protect the engine and dpf.

Out of interest, if I would now edit the ash load value with OBD11 back to 0g with my original dpf with ash load value now showing 57g, what would happen? Even if the dpf wasnt cleaned?

Just to chime in, my car 2014 Vrs 2.0 Tdi CUPA engine, manual gearbox, has 248kkm now and OBD11 shows oil ash mass 57g with the limit being also 80g. My car uses about 1,5dl of oil per 1000km, has been like this for the last 100kkm. Only used 5W30 oil. The engine has good power and i can get 5-5,3 liters/100km consumption with 225/40/18 tyres in the summer with speeds of 100-120kmh.

My car also had this problem last year, manufactured 10/2014. I fixed it with a couple of seger-rings and glued the button back on if I recall correctly. Mines a manual so when parking I always apply handbrake first after shutting engine down with the brake pedal on then put it in 1st gear so that most of the forces that try to make the car roll forwards/backwards are countered by the brakes, i like to think that saves the transmission in the long haul.

You can click/tap on the picture and then zoom in to see the text closer.

This is from the workshop manual.

Also i found that the oil temp readings on the maxidot display are exactly the same that obd11 shows, of course the maxidot only shows oil temps starting at 50Celsius. The coolant temp needle isnt as accurate as obd11 shows, i think in most cars the needle works that way that the real temp could be between 80-95 and the needle stays at 12'o clock

You could run the webasto pump via obd11 for some time with the coolant bottle cap off and see if the coolant level goes down or air bubbles come out the bottle. Also if you havent used the webasto after you changed the pump run the webasto heater for one time

I think that number 15 is the dsg thermostat

Here is the coolant circuit of 2.0 Tdi

Hi. I had the same symptoms in my 2015 2.0 Vrs Tdi manual gearbox, last year with about 225kkm back then. The car took really long to reach operating temp and i logged my car with obd11 while driving, my coolant temp never got over 82Celsius even in summer so my thermostat had stuck open. I changed by myself a new OE Gates thermostat and also emptied the whole coolant system of the original G13 coolant and changed it to the new G12 Evo variant. The filling of the new coolant and getting air out of the system was pretty fiddly because you have to use something like Vagcom or obd11 to run all the electric waterpumps in the system, my car has four pumps: the main water pump driven by the cambelt, it has an electrially operated "sleeve", an auxiliary heating pump, charge air cooler pump and my car has factory webasto, it has also its own. There is also a procedure in vagcom and obd11 where the car runs the air purging process in the main coolant circuit and the secondary ones. You really need to do these so no air is left in the system. I would say almost certain that in a manual car there is only one thermostat in the engine. Also you could check that after a hard motorway drive your upper radiator hose should feel hot, dont burn your hand and if your fan is on watch for your fingers. Also you could check if your coolant temp sensor is giving logical readings if you have access to an obd tester.

Hmm, with the dpf deleted wouldnt the car smoke a lot and blow big black clouds of exhaust fumes out the back, with that kind of oil consumption. Personally wouldnt want to be driving behind your car...the exhaust fumes would smell really terrible and couldnt see **** for a while🤣. A working dpf really makes a difference, the diesel exhaust stays clean and doesnt smell anything like the old diesels did. Also in my country its illegal to delete dpf, if you get caught, the fines you get from doing that are counted in thousands of euros.

Out of interest, how frequent has the oil been changed during the cars lifetime? The long life service plan with 30k kilometer oil change interval doesnt do any good for the piston oil rings in this engine. I would try a forte new generation motor flush with their instructions for an engine that hasnt been cleaned earlier: first drive the engine warm, then 2 bottles of forte motor flush in on the current oils in the engine and with a raised idle speed of 1500rpm, gear in neutral,STANDING STILL, dont move the car, let it idle for atleast 30 minutes, maybe even close to 1 hour. Then shut down the engine and change the oil, careful it will be hot, let it pour out all the way and then if you have any leftover,clean and suitable non used engine oil layin around, maybe pour few desilitres in and watch from the sump plug hole will it come out clean...just a little extra flush to get all the old oil out. Then new filter and good oil like Liqui Moly. Maybe even throw a bottle of Forte Advanced Diesel Fuel Conditioner in the fuel tank to clean the fuel system. This would be my first approach for the problem. If the piston oil rings are only gunked up due to bad maintenance they could possibly be cleaned with motor flush. They could also be seized or even broken so then the flush wouldnt help.

Was the cars Ecu told that the dpf was cleaned, meaning that were the oil ash levels etc dialed back to zero? And was the dpf professionally cleaned, the backpressure measured before and after cleaning. But that kind of oil consumption will most likely clog the dpf fast again, if there isnt any leaks its burning the oil, turbo seals faulty or piston oil rings. Has the oil consumption improved after dpf cleaning? The reduced backpressure has reduced oil blow-by on piston rings? Have you tried a motor flush like forte? And after motor flush a good quality oil like Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30.

Yes i dont want too stiff suspension because i drive this car daily, just looking to replace the tired original suspension with new parts or with upgraded new parts if it really makes a difference. Arent the eibach pro springs progressive springs? Would they still be too firm in a daily?

Thx for the reply. You didn't find the eibach pro kit too firm for daily driving? Also i thought that for optimum performance you should use b8 shocks with the pro kit because the oe-spec shocks would wear out faster, thus the use of shorter shocks like the b8's.