Jo88Mak

English please😅

Check this out. I changed tired ten year old original struts to these. There is a Youtube installation video how to do it. Also i calibrated the boot to not open full lenght of the struts so they will last longer. But the issue of the original struts having too short wires is non-existent in the linked struts+they are more robust in my opinion also. https://power-tailgate.com/electric-tailgate-actuators-set-skoda-octavia-2012-2020-deffner-s52-left-right

Ok, so you mean u have 228hp for a year and everything is working fine still. No clutch slipping? Do you still have dpf installed? Are you happy with the tune? Any negative effects?

Any info?

Hello! I have a 2.0 Tdi Vrs MY2015 with a 6-speed manual. Engine code CUPA. For some time i have been thinking about getting a custom remap from a well known tuner here in Finland. They promise 220-230bhp and 450Nm. Sounds reasonable to me because the stock turbo doesnt give more what i have searched the internet. What i would like to know is that how much power and especially torque can the stock clutch handle if its in good condition and you drive it "the right way". The car has done now 204k km. Will the clutch slip anyway because of the tune or will it handle it? What about the 02Q-transmission? How robust is it? If anybody has some personal experience/info i would be most grateful. Im not planning going over stage 1 because its my daily driver. Oh and also is the petrol 2.0 tsi stock clutch the same as in diesel? Thank you!

That is true😅

When you say take it apart, what do you mean by that exactly? I have watched some youtube videos of removing the dpf from the engine bay for cleaning and that seems to be a big operation...lots of parts to be removed first to get the dpf out. Or am I missing something here?

Hello! I would just like to know that is the dpf always paired with catalytic converter, they are one piece? I mean in the 2.0 TDI engines CUPA/CUNA? Are the dpf and catalytic converter always welded together in these engine types or can the dpf be separated from the catalytic converter somehow? Is there a version of the dpf+cat where you can dismantle just the dpf canister for cleaning? Thank you.

Anyone?

Would something like this do the trick? There is a 50mm inner diameter version that could be compressed enough with hose clamps to get a tight fit. It says that it stands -40 to +93 celsius temperature, i think thats enough for intake air temp from the exhaust manifold? https://www.gates.com/jp/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/air-intake-and-defroster-hose.p.7768-000000-000000.html Or this one: It stands more of higher temperatures and says in the description that its used to connect hot air from exhaust manifold shroud to air cleaner. Its made of fiberglass aluminium, its different material than the original hose/pipe, but does it matter? https://www.gates.com/jp/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/air-intake-and-defroster-hose.p.7743-000000-000000.html

Hello. My car is 2014 Skoda Octavia mk3 2.0TDI VRS and engine code is CUPA. I was adjusting my gear shift linkage cables and when removing my air filter box i noticed that the smaller hose/pipe under the intake pipe had several holes in it. I think its called a pre heater hose thats used to help in cold starts. It draws warm air from the exhaust manifold to the air filter box. Is this hose only used in cold climate countries? I live in Finland. I am looking to replace this hose but can't find the part number for it anywhere. The hose is 130mm in lenght and the outer diameter is 48mm or close to it. I will attach some pictures of the hose, ignore the duct tape that i have used to fix the hose for now😅. If someone could get me the correct part number or a link to a some kind of universal hose that i could use in my car. Thank you!

Nvm...i got it🤣...and the washer line to the camera is working well now👍

Hi! Im installing high line reversing camera to my 2015 Skoda Octavia RS 2.0 TDI. I have already routed the cable from the boot to the behind of the infotainment unit in the glovebox. And also changed the handle in the trunk to the one with the camera fitted. Maybe next week will be doing the connections...have to do it outdoors and its raining every day atm 😬. So what im asking is that the camera has a washer nozzle also and the package i purchased came with pipes and a y-splitter to install it. The idea is to disconnect the rear washers original pipe and connect it to the y-splitter and from there use the provided pipes to connect back to the rear washer and the camera. How do i disconnect the rear washers pipe without breaking it?

I just think it looks ugly that there is like 4-5mm wide area of rust in the disc. And if I look other cars in the parking lots...they have shiny discs without rust...in the braking area. Makes me think that are the pads seating properly?

But if you look at the picture i attached...it looks to me that the most inner surface of the rear discs arent getting cleaned by the pads...theres a film of rust near the wheel hub where the disc ends. I think that the whole braking surface should be clear hence why i dont think that the pads touch the whole surface?

Hahaa😄...of course not.

Oops...double post.

I took about 75 ml fluid off from the reservoir to decrease the level just below MAX. Will see if this helps to clean the rear discs fully. Any other ideas?

I took about 75 ml fluid off from the reservoir to decrease the level just below MAX. Will see if this helps to clean the rear discs fully. Any other ideas?

Ok...hmm i had my brake fluid changed in a garage along with air con and gearbox oil change. We noticed that after we changed the new parts the brake fluid reservoir flooded and now there is fluid over the MAX-marking in the reservoir. Could this be the issue that i have too much brake fluid atm? Should i take some of it off with a syringe to make the fluid level decrease to below MAX?

Hello! I have just bought a Octavia mk3 MY2014 2.0 TDI RS with 6-speed manual. Its driven for about 167000 km now. I changed with my friend who is keen with cars the front brake discs and pads and also the rear brake and pads. The front brakes are 340mm diameter and the rears are 272mm. I have now noticed two weeks after the repair that the rear brake pads don't clean the whole surface of the discs. That makes me think i have the wrong size pads in. When we changed them they installed ok and seemed fine. The PR code for the rear brakes is 1KT in my car. The parts i used in the front and rear are TRW brand. Here are the parts: - Front discs TRW DF6133S - Front pads TRW GDB2114 - Rear discs TRW DF7911 - Rear pads TRW GDB2042 I attach an pic to see the problem. So can any of you fine people here in Briskoda tell me what is the right part number and especially the right size for the rear pads? Dont want to ruin my new discs immediately. The measurements for the TRW GDB2042 rear pads are: - width 104,2 mm - height 51,9 mm - depth 17,5 mm Are these the wrong pads?