Thud

Thanks for checking. Mine's similar, except that the boot light never seems to go fully off, at least when I had the led unit in. There seems to be a residual low voltage on that circuit, just enough to dimly light an led lamp but not a filament bulb. Anyway, the old bulb's back in and all's well. Disconnected the glovebox lamp as after a few days of observation (keys out, doors locked) it was still on. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. Cheers, there's no switch on mine either but I left the lamp hanging out to observe, switched off the car, locked it but an hour later the light was still on. Curious. Am I right in thinking that the glovebox lamp (and the boot light) are under the control of some electronic module?

Hi all, a couple of questions for you. I replaced the luggage compartment light in my Roomster, it was a filament bulb and was kinda dim yellowish. I put in an led unit taken from a scrapped Fabia and it was noticeably brighter. The problem is it doesn't go out. On closing the boot, the light goes to maybe half brightness, not totally off. After the car being parked and locked, even a day later there's still a faint glow from the lamp. ?? Would a ballast resistor help in this case? My glovebox lamp (filament type) also appears to be permanently on. Any insights? Cheers

Sounds like either a faulty door lock or a broken wire in the A pillar loom. Happy hunting.

Hi, for all those who, like me, couldn't find enough info online about the location and replacement of the heater blower resistor in my Roomster 1.9tdi 57 plate. It was off to the scrappy for me. The donor vehicle was a 11 plate Fabia 2 i believe, the interior was almost identical to mine. There are plenty of other aftermarket compatible parts available online but where's the fun in that? Anyway, in the attached document you'll find pics and a description of my recent foray into the guts of my Roomster. I hope that it might help someone out. Small hands are an advantage. Guide to Replacing Blower Resistor.pdf

Broken wire(s) in bellows at A-pillar is my best guess, assuming the warning light works on other doors. Cheers.

Hi all, sorry if I'm hi-jacking this thread, but it's kind of relevant, I think. I've been chasing an intermittent central locking fault, front passenger door and I reckon I've found it. T28 yeehah My question is, does anyone know the size/name/part number of the female crimp terminals I'll need to replace the connections indicated in the pictures. Marked 4 (br/ge), the crimp connector has snapped in the housing, wire 6 (green/blue) looks to have snapped clean off at the crimp. It looks clean enough to have been cut, but who'd want to do that? The wire guage on both these wires is 0.35. There will probably be a few more dodgy connections I haven't found yet. I may need to replace a few more but kind of doubt as all the rest of the door electics are ok. Any hints or tips as to the best way to go about this repair welcomed. Cheers

All I can see on free vincheck sites is it's a blue Skoda Superb. Using the reg number, I found out that its MOT'd till Dec 2024 and I'd check the rear brakes😀 Cheers

Hiya, not promising I can help, but what info are you looking for and which model are you thinking of buying? There's a wise man on these forums called Breezy_Pete who might see this and help out. Cheers

You're welcome, no worries, let us know how you get on. I don't see why you'd need to do anything to the red plug on the left you mentioned, but that's only my guess. Once you start peeling off the loom insulation you'll get a clearer idea. If you do, could you please post a picture? Just for curiosity's sake and future reference. This seems to be a common fault.😀 Cheers

Hiya, have you seen this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323974769047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4AXrxQfvTFi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=akn2d3NASFC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY. There are loads of those wired plugs available online, just check the numbers before ordering. If you can get the existing plug off the switch, yes it's fiddly, you're better able to strip back the loom enough to give you enough of the existing wiring to work with. Splicing your new wire on shoul prove easier. Soldering, crimp connections etc will be easier now. Don't worry about the colours on the new plug and tails, so long as the plug fits and there's two wires, you're good to go. If I remember correctly the wires going to the switch are coloured black/white and black/blue. Looking at your pic above, this would indeed be the case. Not too much loom chopping required at all. Cheers

You'll be in behind the left boot panel as well, no doubt, as thats where the parking sensor brain lives. Take care putting it back. 😀 My aux power socket trapped and shorted a couple of wires in my rear light cluster loom. Caused a few problems, I can tell you.

Thanks to all, and a special mention to Breezy_Pete.👍 i don't need to find the reverse light switch now. I tracked down the source of my reverse light/ brake light issue this afternoon After removing the rear left boot panel I noticed that two wires from the rear light cluster loom had become trapped, chafed and shorted together. The rerverse lamp and brake lamp wires, TaaDaa! Trapped between the aux power outlet and the car frame, you can see the witness marks in the pic. All sorted now so my brake lights and reverse lights and functions are now working and independent of each other. Thanks again for all your help and time. On now to the next gremlin.

@Quadra840AV Hiya, is this of any use to you? I'm going to be doing some parking sensor troubleshooting soon, after I sort out some front passenger doorlock issues. Cheers Parking Aid Roomster_2006.pdf

Yeah, kinda what I thought. On with the wire tracing then. Cheers.

Hi everyone, I hope this post is in the right place, if not could someone please redirect me. I've recently downloaded and learned to read the current flow diagrammes for my Skoda but I'm stumped by this. On the diagrammes, a circled number or letters usually denotes a splice in the loom, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but is there any way of knowing where in the loom any named joint is? In particular I'm for a point RF (circled) in the reverse light circuitry. Cheers

PM on the way😀

Hi everyone, does the pic above apply to a Roomster 1.9 tdi manual gearbox by any chance? Still have on-going electrical gremlins, but getting there. Cheers

Thanks for the advice, @stratosg. Fortunately the other day, the doorlock started working again as normal from the keyfob. For just now anyway. As soon as weather permits, I'll be taking the door panel off to check all the electrical connections, water damage etc. Cheers

Hi, no worries, I found them in the documents you referred me to at the top of this thread. I've only just had a propper look. Again, many thanks for providing that link. @Graham62 Cheers

@Breezy_Pete Thanks for the valuable info. It's good to have confirmed in words what I see from the current flow diagrammes. They're a bit different to what I've been used to! Anyway, have a happy new year and thanks for all your help thus far. Cheers 🤘

Nope, ignore that. Talking rubbish! Of course I can't autoscan, I've not registered or authorised my VCDS(lite) yet. Doh!

Thanks for the insight, @SJFISHER67 just hoping for a dry spell to get out and have a look, do some yoga in prep for the contorionism 😉

Hi All, hope you had a good one. I could use some advice on how to open a deadlocked passenger door. It will not open using the handle from inside or out, or from the keyfob. Turning the key in the drivers side lock doesnt open it either. There's no keyhole on the passenger side and have tentatively tried the thumping method described elsewhere on Briskoda. No joy yet. Can a 2007 Roomster3's pasenger door be dismantled from the inside (while closed) to get a the lock? How about getting at the door loom, though I'd need to know the wiring colours and a map for that approach to prove of any use. Baffled as usual😀 Any ideas?

Hi, I'll hopefully be able to get the switch fitted tomorrow but have first to look at and sort out the wiring for it. That suspect switch seems to have failed (is it on a fuse?) The car now doesn't think it's in reverse constantly, unlike previously described. No voltage at brake lights, they don't switch on at all, so I don't think battery drain is an issue, thanks for the suggestion though. Cheers