logrover

I expect your forum searching brought this up, but just in case it did not then here's is the link - may help with wiring and diagnosing if it really is the switch, etc...

we had similar with a 1.4tdi mk2 died whilst driving and then not restarting, although we also had all dash lights going out at same time. Trying to restart failed due to immobiliser, and i eventually solved by resoldering some connections inside dash - been fine since for last 18months. saga here:

When i had throttle issues (signal dropping so fabia-2 1.2 went into limp home mode), i removed the electronic throttle pedal and opened it up. I seem to recall it was easy to remove and open, and i then cleaned the contact tracks and "fingers" and made sure they were making good contact, put it all back together and its been good for a couple of years so far. might be worth a go? pics on inside of pedal after cleaning:

Could also be dodgy connectors in the window motor surprisingly. Mine had the door open fault intermittently but it hasn't returned for a year now since i applied the fix below:

thanks for the info - i did a search on that kit number and the three parts you mention don't look the same as any of the parts i have (for a BBM fabia) - so i think they must have been different connectors. - but thanks anyway. I did however manage to refit my connector properly - although it felt it had been pushed fully home, i concluded it was not far enough on, so some thorough cleaning and then a smear of vaseline on the new filter stem, and it went fully home with a very satisfying loud click - so i'm sure its on properly now.

Had fuel leaking from the filter (not sure exactly where), so thought I'd just replace anyway as no record of being done. Replaced with Mann WK69/2 and all went well (apart from rusted out mounting bolt that I had to drill out and replace with a stainless one). However, a few weeks and few hundred miles later and the return line popped off the filter and killed the engine. Looks like the clip in the connector is not locking onto the ridge in the filter pipe (blue bit in picture). Having spent the evening searching the web I discover that these clips are a common problem, and the usual advice is to replace the whole pipe assembly, often involving dropping the tank! However I do see some clips are advertised (often for Octavia or Golf, but not Fabia or Polo). Has anyone replaced just the clip in the filter connectors on a 2009 Fabia 1.2 ? Any advice or part number for the clips? I will take a better look at the connector tomorrow and clean it again in the hope some dirt is preventing latching.

I had the dash apart recently (fabia 2) and got an airbag light on, and I was able to reset it using an older and cheapo (£25'ish) code reader i had lying around - a U281 which was for VW family vehicles. Worked first time, no problem.

perhaps set your phone up to video the cylinder /shoe and then run round and press the pedal - just a passing thought....

Thanks for the update. In the meantime I did manage to solve the same problem with mine by reflowing the solder joints in the window control module:

On the plus side, looking at the last few pics I would say you have definitely found out why the new exhaust is loud If you are doing it yourself and have the right diameter tube clamp, assemble both pipes into the tube and make sure they are both sitting in the right place without hangers straining and without touching any bodywork/engine etc,, then tighten the two bolts evenly and check again the exhaust is all sitting where it should. If you don't do this then its possible to tighten things up when they are in the wrong place and then you get rattles if the exhaust touches something or failures if the exhaust routing is wrong or mounts distorted/strained.

well that is three days of cold starts and daily running, and no warning light at all - so looks like the bridge wire solved it. Must have been a break in the loom between dash and wheelarch, and the bridge has bypassed it. I did notice that one of the brake light bulbs was blown, so I replaced that yesterday. Cant be sure how long it was blown for, but think that must be coincidence as I believe the brake pad wear circuit just monitors that and not other brake items? Could remove the bridge to double check now that the bulb is working, but will leave well alone until after tomorrows MOT....

was cold this morning (frost) and the brake pad warning light stayed illuminated on starting (even though both wires soldered together at wheel end). Usually subsequent trips throughout the day do not have the light illuminated. so I went ahead with the earth bridge discussed above (joining pins 1 and 8) on the 8 pin connector behind cluster, took about 5 mins. Used some heavy duty solid copper house wire as it fitted firmly alongside the pin bodies in the back of the connector. Light now stays off, but it always did after first start, so real test will be tomorrow morning. if it works, we'll see how long it takes me to remove this temporary fix and do properly , and if it doesn't work then I'll have to look at the PCB connections again...

Yes, the total dash loss followed by immobiliser cutting in immediately after starting has not reoccurred after I reflowed all pins of both connectors on the cluster. However I didn't identify any actual fault at the time though (assumed a hidden dry solder connection of one of the power feeds) so always feel a bit unsure that it was something I've done has fixed it or that it was a very random fault. This occasional pad warn light was going for a few weeks before the main cluster fault, and has continued afterwards, but it is always intermittent. My thinking now is if I jump the wires at the connector block and fault goes it will suggest loom to sensor fault, but if it remains it will suggest cluster PCB.

thanks for quick reply - i'll investigate that tomorrow. for some reason i can find more motivation to work from the drivers seat into the dash cluster than with my head in the wheel arch dealing with dirty and rusted fasteners everywhere

Wino, another quick question if i may: Does that red wire to pin 1 in the cluster return an earth from the pad sensor from the yellow wire? ie. when the pad sensor is closed (or the two wires shorted together) it provides an earth to pin 1, and when sensor open no earth provided and dash symbol illuminates? If so, I could maybe provide an earth to red wire at the dash 8 pin connector (from pin 8 wire) to bypass any damaged sender cable - first to help diagnosis and maybe as a permanent fix/bodge. cheers.