Joel-

Yeah, over here we have had at least below -10 degrees Celsius for the past couple of weeks and temperatures have dropped to even -28 degrees Celsius few times. Brake seizing is connected to these conditions obviously. For the sake of curiosity, I asked my collegue who also has MY25 Superb that does his car suffer from freezing brakes and tve answer was no, not even once.

Not exactly sure what You mean, but the car has this fingerbutton which operates the hand/parkingbrake electronically. As far as I am aware, all the Superbs are equipped with this specific solution. I always use parkingbrake to prevent stressing the "P" position of the gearbox alone, because the car is sitting most of the times on a declining parking spot.

I have had issues with freezing handbrake multiple times now. Twice it has been so frozen that I had to press gas pedal quite significantly before the handbrake released and the car would move. I could even smell the clutch burning a bit afterwards. It is not that the mechanism would not work but rather so that the pads are seized against the discs.

Nah, if this starts to bother me too much, then I might bring this up when taking the car to its first oil service to the dealer. It is not that big of deal, I just got used to it that there is no need to adjust steering wheel at all when driving straight :D I guess the front end with this new car is lighter than what it was with the previous one and this makes it feel more "flimsy". Although I had installed this Powerflex polyurethane pendulum bushing to my old car, which minimizes the engine/transmission back and forth movement, this also might had affected the handling in a positive way.

Unfortunately it is not a tire pressure thing. I have checked everything which is related to tires and all are good. Also this "effect" is present with both of my tire sets, summer and winter, and both are high end sets. I guess this is just another feature with new Superb which I have to live with

One thing I have also noticed is that when driving on highway, I have to constantly adjust steering wheel a bit to keep the car on a straight line. This was not the case with my old Superb, it went straight without touching the steering wheel. My old Superb 2,0 TDi with 4x4 so this may have something to do with the handling.

It is just that the stock amplifier is complete *******s and is not capable to drive the speakers properly. System is working as should, components are just poor, so complaining to dealer will not do anything.

Yeah, the new Superb is an excellent car regardles of the software issues, but the non Canton sound system, which I have in my car, sucks SOOOO bad. I cant believe that in year 2025 car speakers/sound system can sound so foggy and dull. Even though it is a stock system and is not meant to make magic, still atleast is should sound like it is from this decade. I have also 05MY C5 Citroen with stock speakers and even the FM radio sounds twice the better than 20 years younger Superb. Well I can only blame myself as I could have had ordered the car from the factory with Canton setup, but ended up getting one of the dealers "ready for shipment" cars because of hurry.

As long as there is warranty everything will be fine :)

What happened with this car?

1849km in the odometer and the car now light the airbag fault light :) Noticed also that the front interior lights and some other isntruments are out of the game aswell.

Yeah, my coworkers car went for a software update and came back last week. It seems that all of the problems with driver assist fault errors are now gone and has not reappeared yet. All systems are functioning as they should. I find this quite suprising that this all was caused by a software issue. Dealer did not give any detailed explanation but nonetheless car is now fixed.

Your car might have the same problem as my co-workers car. Personally I dont buy it that this would be a software problem. If it would be a software, why wasnt this issue already present when the car was brought to him? This started like a couple of weeks ago with this already described behaviour as my car has and developed in to this crippling state where it is now. Everything was more or less fine for four months or so.

I have had this same issue during foggy and rainy mornings. Apparently either the windscreen camera or the front radar does not like moisture, could be both as far as I know. But with my car this goes away after driving couple of miles and everything works just fine from there on. But my co-workers car has taken this completely to another level. None of the driver assist functions work regardles of the time of the day or weather. Screen is full of lights and it looks more like a christmas tree with nice beeping sounds. The other day the car even refused to start at all. Dealer said that this is a software issue and the car is being taken to them tomorrow to be updated. I will inform whether this helps or not. Needles to say that I am not impressed with this kind of "quality". Two 2025 MY cars suffering from same kind of issues, which tells that this is not just bad luck, its bad design or bad quality. Or both.

Are there anymore these driving modes: eco, normal, sport in these MK4 Superbs, which affects throttle response and shifting patterns? I dont mean the DCC damper modes.

I think the PHEV has a different transmission than the 1.5 eTec. Nonentheless, I will follow how the DSG in ny car operates and if it starts to bother me too much, then I will take the car to the dealer where I got it. Might be just a software issue or a feature that will eventually fade away after the car has covered more miles.

Hi everyone! Got my 2025 1.5 estate a couple of days ago and immediately noticed DSG jerking when cold. Clutch does not engage properly when accelerating from standstill and it slips for a brief moment resulting in excessive vibration. Transmission works fine when warmed up. Is this a common feature with these dry clutch DSG applications? This is a company car so I am able to take it to dealership so no worries regarding repair/inspection costs and obviously the car is under warranty as well.

Greetings from Finland, A while ago the check engine light on my 2018 190hp TDI came on and the fault code is P047F00: Exhaust circulation flap stuck open. Today I lifted the car up so that I could inspect the flap. Apart from what I have seen before, the flap on my car is actually welded to the exhaust pipes which makes the removal much more complicated than what I had pressumed. The flap itself does not seem to be seized or anything and I am able to move it with my fingers. I found out that Pierburg has this "repair kit" for this case and hopefully I would be able to use this instead of removing the whole front part of the exhaust pipe and cutting it and welding the new part to it. Part number for the repair kit: PIERBURG 7.07696.00.0 But before I do anything, I will check what I am able to do with VCDS regarding testing the flap. There should be an option to test out the movement of this flap. Has any one else faced this problem before?

Here is a link for the operation: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/DQ500_DSG_7-speed_transmission Dont mind the comment of DQ500, as this procedure applies also to other gearboxes, including DQ381.

Yes it is. You can find more info from RossTech forum of this. I would say, that this procedure is part of "proper" maintenance of the gearbox along with fluid and filter change. And there is no harm of changing the oil before the manufacturers recommended interval of 80.000 something miles, quite the opposite.

I had the same on my 2018 2.0tdi 4x4. Changed the DSG oil and filter = small improvement. Did the clutch adaptation with VCDS = huge improvement. Basically the car felt completely different after this. The adaptation is a must at some point more or less, as the disc packs wear over time.

Easy job to do. It took me about an hour from start to finish to get the both sides done in an un ergonomic environment (on ground level without a proper car lift). And while at it, I also installed the red Powerflex version of the pendulum mount insert (or what ever it is called).

OK, that sounds good. I was just wondering that there might not be enough space to replace the joint without removing the axle bolt and getting the axle out of the way.

Yeah, I guess there is no fear for oil spillage, as the drive shafts are bolted to the differential. So basically removing the locking bolt from the axle end is enough to get this done (besides removing the ball joint itself)?

2018 Superb 3V5 L&K, 2.0TDi 4x4 Right side ball joint needs to be replaced. Mechanic noticed that it is loose whilst conducting an oil change service. I suspected also, that there might be something loose in the front end, as there have been minor clunking when going over bumps and such. I thought to replace this by myself, both sides, as the left one is also an original one. Have not done this to 4x4 Superb before, so do I need to look out for oil spillage from the front end differential when removing the lower front strut from the ball joint, as the drive shaft tends to move out from its bores during the process?