Joel-

I have not actually never tried in any other way than pressing the start button and releasing it immediately. With this method the engine starts crancking and fires up and the starter motor releases and stops turning. Some how I thought that you need to press it once to get the starter motor turning and engine cranking and if for some unkown reason the engine does not start you press the button second time to stop the sequence.

2018 L&L estate 2.0TDI 190hp 4x4 DSG Today, when I left the office and took a seat in my car, I pressed the brake pedal and pushed the "start engine" button and the engine started cranking. But in a few seconds I realised it wouldn't start. I let it crank for a about 5 seconds before I pressed the start button again to terminate the cranking. Second try, same result. Third try, same result. After that I stepped out of the car, locked the doors, opened them up again and sat back in the drivers seat. Fourth try and still same result. I tried to fiddle with the keys and locked the doors again and did all kind of things that came to my mind in this short period of time. Fifth try, same result. After the fifth try I was so ****ed that I stepped out of the vehicle and opened the bonnet to see if there would be some obvious reasons for this (like broken fuel hose or something), but there were none. I thought that I will try one last time to start the car before I call a towing company. Sixth try and the car started within a second from pushing the start button. No fault codes whatsoever on the screen. Could this be some sort of immobiliser problem? I am almost 100 percent sure, that this has nothing to do with fuel management in mechanical sense, but rather in "electrical" like the immobiliser not detecting the car key or something. Car has KESSY keyless go system. A week ago I got the message that battery level is low and maybe the immobiliser is not functioning properly because of this. Cranking is also as fast as it can be, so the starter motor is not bad. I am planning to change the battery this weekend and see if that helps. I have VCDS for the coding (at least I believe that the new battery needs to be "coded" with VCDS) and a spare battery which I can hook up to the car so that it does not need to be cut out from the current completely when removing the cars own battery.

Hi, I have the led plus package on my 2018 L&K. I was wondering are the footwell lights just a regular white leds without the option to change the color? It would have been nice if the footwell lights changes the color with the other led stripes in the cabin.

Start/stop was already disabled so it is not the reason behind this, but You are correct, those are well spent pennies!

2018 2.0 190hp TDI here with same "feature". Today outside temp was -18 degrees when this happened. Car turned on nicely, transmission to R, after releasing the break pedal, clutch engages and car tries to move, but engine stalls and car stops. Info screen says put gear selector to P and turn engine on manually (manually seems quite stupid, as there is only one way to crank the engine runing). This happened three times before I was able to get going. This has to do something with the clutch operation in cold climate, but very annoying thing still. I guess the oil in transmission is so stiff that it effects to the clutch pack negatively. It felt like the car would have had to allow the clutch to slip a bit when break was released, but instead it just slammed the clutch wide shut and made the engine stall.

Hi, Does any one over here know, is there a pre-made hole from engine compartment to inside the car (to passenger foot area)?

I was completely off with this one. The battery on my Superb is only 68ah. I guess I confused this with my second car which does have a 95ah battery.

I can double check at some point, but if I remember correctly, my Superb has a 95ah battery, AGM. The cold crancking ability is the one which is crucial in extremely cold conditions.

Will do so in the near future. Seems that the dogbone itself costs only like 40 or so pounds on Autodoc. Need to look also for the insert.

Yes, this is definitely something I will check out. Is the round rubber part pressed in to the subframe, or is it also replacable without any significant effort or hydraulic press?

Thanks for the post. So I guess the rubber parts of the mount goes bad over time and enables the engine and transmission to move more? Other end of the mount is attached to the subframe and other end is connected to the transmission?

Greetings from Finland. I have had a 2018 L&K estate Superb 4x4 for a couple of months now and it has been a great car overall, but it feels like there is some excess movement in the drivetrain/engine. Basically it feels like that the engine is rocking back and forth more than it should when accelerating from stand still or when slowing down for a complete stop in traffic. Downshifts are also more noticable when braking harder than normal. Otherwise the transmission works very well with no abnormal behavior. I tried to search for similar topic but could not find any (may be also lack of skill when using the search engine). Has anyone had this kind of experience with their Superb?

New Skoda driver from Finland. Had quite a few Peugeots in the past, but changed to Superb due to its superb size and practicality as a family car and 4x4 option 2018 L&K estate 4x4 and 190hp diesel.