bdavbdav

Wow so its a pretty expensive option (£450) given its intervention seems quite light, doesn't do the lane change without the auto parking, and the ACC was already there by standard in the VRS!

Totally agree - the bit I’m stuck on (which I guess doesn’t actually make that much difference), is apart from the advanced lane assist, what difference the travel assist makes over the stock for the VRS? They don’t make it particularly obvious!

Many thanks all. Is there any other real benefit to the travel assist? The documentation seems to talk cross purpose with other standard options.

Is it just the Skoda implementation? Seemed fine in my Audi (which is presumably similar) and Volvo with PilotAssist

Have a fair amount of confusion about what I have in terms of Lane guidance / travel assist. I've paid for travel assist on my 2024 (pre FL) VRS. I've got the two buttons on the steering wheel (assistance systems, and what I believe is travel assist). When I picked it up, the dealer said something about the 2nd button not doing anything and that it was used on the facelift. This appears to be wrong - the button does do something (the lines come up in the bottom of the dash, it toggles between "travel assist" and ACC. Oddly, in OBDEleven / Carista, it shows Adapative lane assist as disabled. The intervention doesn't really seem to do much either. If I have travel assist, do I have adaptive lane assist? Is the non-activation in OBDEleven a red herring?

Only OBDEleven and carista (for the cheaper phone based apps) have the SFD unlock allowed by VAG - one of those two is what you want, and for my money it’s OBDEleven

@MirkoRI Nope no programming or anything - just appears to be two antenna connectors. I reckon its an afternoons work for someone like myself who hates pulling interiors apart, and I'd be buying some replacement clips from VW and a good set of pry tools beforehand. Definitely buy the service manual before you do though - for £8 it will be invaluable going forward.

Looking at it from here with my (untrained) eye - the screws look like they enter from the bottom. I suspect thats a headliner down job. ... Yep just checked the service manual. Headliner down (hard part), then its fairly easy. The headliner will be the awkward bit. Worth buying the ERWIN subscription for an hour and grabbing the service manuals as it will make life a lot easier. I'm seeing torx bolts holding the board itself in. I suspect though this is soldered to some connector on the back, so that might not help you all that much, especially if the housing is broken too.

…full credit to the system, the only reason I noticed was because I was sat in the car when someone walked past smoking, it made a whir, the air stopped blowing and didn’t start again until a restart

Same issue here. I need to contact the dealer still. Its not seen quite so bad as I've been able to just not put it on recirc / turned off auto recirc.

I suspect the software is different given the updated look - I'd be surprised if the physical device itself is different but could be wrong. Once you've got someone with one in their hands and able to do a coding backup you'll probably have a better idea on that front. Reminds me of upgrading the 4:3 monitor with cassette deck on my dads E39 BMW to the 16:9 screen. Back then it was just a case of swapping the screen and everything worked itself out. Things have changed 😞

That seems like an exceptionally good deal if they can make that, and its the new FL version. That calculates to less than their 6.9% headline APR too, so sounds like they must be throwing in some deposit contribution with that too?

Was one of the last orders for the pre-FL, with the options I’ve got I think I’m probably £4-5k better off over the 4 years, which makes me a bit less bitter about not having the FL! EDIT: Not so much apparently 😞 The Microsuede is standard now, which I wanted, but was going to push me over and be a ~£2400 option with the road tax increase

I've looked absolutely everywhere, every adaptation, every long coding (of which there aren't many at all for this car - it seems the VWs have a lot more for audio settings) - I was also hoping to be able to pull the sound dataset from the MIB3 to edit out the centre speaker, however it seems impossible with the MQB-EVO / MIB3 using anything off the shelf (or at least I'm not finding any sensible reports of doing so!) . I'd love to get a flat EQ out which is possible by editing the sound datasets (I can flatten it in the DSP, however the EQ of the HU changes with volume, and I'd like to retain the factory volume controls).

I've got a Octavia 4, with the standard audio, Columbus HU. Trying to tame the centre speaker. The speaker itself doesn't appear to be present on the speaker terminal block on the main quadlock connector of the headunit. Looking at the wiring diagrams on ERWIN, it only talks about a centre speaker being connected to a DSP amp, and no connector for one on the main head unit. I do however seem to have a working centre speaker (which I should like to reroute for my own DSP). Does anyone know how this is connected? I feel I must be missing something obvious, as the diagrams don't refer to a centre speaker (not the Emergency call one - the audio one) for basic audio.

Thanks @Giannis20 - were you able to do it with regular rivets, or did you have to use a rivnut? AIUI, the holes in the door are rather larger than those in the speakers.

I’ve recently got a Match DSP set up. It works moderately well, eq’d using a UMIK1. The issue I’m having is that I can’t disable audio via the centre channel. One option would be just unplugging it, but it handles nav, phone and warning noises. As far as I can tell, it’s handled by the SOS unit, however signal must get from the HU to the SOS. Is there any graceful way to disable? What have others done when adding aftermarket audio? It seems the VW units have a lot more options re external processors in long coding. AFAICS the Skoda only has MOST enablement (presumably for canton). Is there anything I’m missing?

Sorry another question from me - how are people securing the 165s? Can the rivets included in the box be used? I'd rather not buy a rivnut tool!

Just to add, AIUI the female connector I think I need is an MCP 2.8 for the smaller <30A fuses. I'm not sure what the connector is for the chunkier 40A fuses is. I suspect, given the manufacturer's suggestion to go 30A on the fuse, that being conservative and sticking to the 30A would be wise.

I think thats my plan. I've got a Match 5.4, the Match sub (cant remember the name - the square one that fits in the tray under the boot floor!) and the loom sat in a basket deliberating hitting the go button. The only bit I'm worried about is how the centre channel works, if it comes straight off the factory HU on the loom or if I have to do some modification - as the amp only has 5CH (i.e. Front, Rear, Sub). Also trying to work out the power situation - I don't really want to track a cable to the battery, as finding a path seems quite complicated, and there is a fuse box right next to the installation spot with 40A fuse slots hanging out - The user guide says run a cable straight to the battery fused at 30A (I think the device is 30A sustained, peak 40A) - I'm not sure why a 30A fused circuit off the fusebox would be any different. Does anyone have any thoughts on this (or indeed the centre)?

Hi All, Looking to add a MATCH 5.4 to my Octavia iV. I'm comfortable with the process generally, the only thing i'm concerned about is the power feed to allow the unit to be run in High Power mode. The manual suggests that this takes 30A, peaking at 40, and should be run directly to the battery. I'm not too keen on this, primarily because I can't find a hole through the bulkhead to use, nor can I find any prior videos showing anyone doing this. I'm installing it right next to a fusebox, which already has (empty) slots for 40A fuses in it. Previously when adding circuits (admittedly lower power ones) in other cars, I've bought the receptacle to go behind the fuse slot, and added it to the fusebox, in an unused location. Is there any practical reason a device like this should be run straight to the battery, as opposed to using the fuse box, which is capable of 40A sustained loads by the looks of things? If this is a bad idea, has anyone found a grommet to pass through cleanly behind the glovebox of a RHD?

I note the 5.4 only has 4ch + sub - do you loose the centre or does the stock HU drive this (do you have to bridge anything on the loom?)

Not sure if you’ve got an iOS device to hand, but HouseCurve is a really easy way of doing the frequency sweep measurements, as the mics in the phones are supposedly very flat / of known compensation. I believe it can use an external mic too with the right adapter (although I don’t know how the response is handled here)

Does anyone have any information as to which loom to use? Also has anyone routed a power cable for high power mode?

Is anyone who has gone the Audiotec Fischer route able to help me with any of the following? Hoping to go with a MATCH 6 UP Which harness works? I can see both the PP-VAG and the PP-PAC92B recommended in different places I note that the amps run in both low and high power mode - has anyone run the wiring for high-power, and was this fairly straightforward? Is there an accessible grommet? Presumably the Canton amp (which I don't have) requires low level inputs - Do the harnesses pull from the high level or low level, and is this something I can code if not already output? Has anyone used a Match with the Focal VW speakers? Sorry for the wall of questions, there seems to be very little information on the actual wiring - On the edge of paying for erWIN access for the wiring diagram.