Rheumy

Does the main beam part of your new switch appear to feel different (ie work in a different way?) I don't know if this is applicable to yours but this guy had the same problem after fitting a new switch for cruise control to an Audi A4. The dealer might not want to get involved with his cure but it's worth running it past them.

Good stuff! Obviously more helpful dealers up there in Scotland than down here in Cornwall!

Just for info- My Daughter's car does have the speed limiter and front assist and the BCM on hers is part number 6C0 937 089 C. I plugged in my VCDS to find that part number otherwise it should be stamped on the physical part but you would have to remove it from behind the dash.

Just comparing online and it looks like the 6V0054800F part is for cars without MFA/MFD and the B version I presume is for cars with MFD. https://www.super-parts.eu/6v0054800f-cruise-control-without-on-board-computer-function-skoda-fabia-iii/

My mistake. It's a 2016 not a 2014. It's a MK 3.

I'm interested in this subject. 👍 I posted one of the threads in nta16's links. My daughter's Fabia is a 2014 1.2 not a 1.0 but that also has two options of switch. But they are different from yours. From memory I thought the difference in part number was whether it already had a speed limiter fitted or not. The BCM (body control module) a box behind the dash also needs to be able to support cruise control. On some cars with very basic electronic equipment like manual windows and no MFD (multi function display) for example, you might need to replace and code the BCM also which is an expensive item. I won't be seeing my daughter's car until August or September to fit the cruise control but I'm interested to see how you get on with the activation part. We have a couple of places down here in Cornwall who I'm hoping might do it. The local Skoda dealer refused to help unless they did the whole job. I have VCDS so I can do any coding necessary but I will need access to Odis and its live connection to Skoda HQ for the activation. Good VAG independents in your location should have Odis so it's worth asking them. You might do better than dealer prices. Good luck anyway and please do post your experiences to help others.

I only had access to my daughter's car at Christmas so I never got to the job or even ask the local places about the enabling. I tried but all were closed of course. She will be back in August so I'll look at it again then. I don't know where you live but you will need a good local independent specialist who has Odis (and the server connection to Skoda HQ). Even if you have the activation software with the new stalk it can't be activated with Vcds like the old days. 🙁. I will update this thread when I have anything new to report. I'd be interested if anyone else has managed to achieve this outside the dealer network. Both about the job itself and the cost of the activation.

I have found a couple of local recommended specialists who have Odis. I will ring them tomorrow and see if their charge is reasonable or if it makes the whole project not worth it.

I now have my daughter's Fabia here for a couple of weeks but I have discovered that I won't be able to code the new cruise control stalk with VCDS even though it comes with 'Activation Software'. It needs to be done by a dealer tool (Odis) and it is done by using a live connection to Skoda. Because the car already has a speed limiter, it means it has the capacity for adding basic cruise control reasonably easily, in fact, I think I won't even have to do much more than replace the stalk assembly. But the dealer here is not interested in doing the activation unless they do the whole job. Does anyone know of someone who has Odis who could do the activation for me if I fit the new stalk? I'm in Cornwall but my daughter lives near Reading in Berkshire so she could take it somewhere local to her. Obviously it's not worth me fitting the new CC stalk if nobody will do the activation part.

I agree but logic as well. All safety-critical systems on a car these days are monitored by their particular controller ECU so if a fuse blows or an electrical fault occurs it will be noticed and recorded. You could spend a lot of time confirming all the different signals like road speed, steering angle, engine speed, reference voltages, data communications with other controllers (like ABS) and you would need a correct wiring diagram to do this. I'm not saying you shouldn't check fuses but a quick check with VCDS first is probably actually quicker and more valuable than finding and testing all the fuses in the various fuse boxes because the fuse designations vary enough to make the handbook versions unreliable.

You really do need a scan with diagnostic equipment as a basic start with that one. I don't think it can be a fuse unless you have no power assistance. Have you had any recent steering work like alignment or had any accident damage? New tyres? Quite a few things can cause power steering codes. If any parts of the steering have been disconnected or any wiring unplugged during other work you will need to have the steering angle calibration reset using VCDS or similar.

Pedalecs Forum? I used to read that a lot. Member flecc always talks sense. If you haven't ever ridden a quality e-bike B1ackb1rd you should consider it. I wouldn't ride in poor weather or bad light but you will always have a smile on your face on nice days! I had a heart attack out of the blue in 2019 and we still cycle miles on our e bikes since we tried our first ever ebikes in the Lake District more than 25 years ago. We take them with us to France/Spain every year. I worked as mechanic from leaving school aged 15 for 46 years until retirement and I can confirm what you already know. I have seen the results of a few cold engine miles a day many times. No additive will be good enough to offset the engine wear.

I'm wondering if they haven't set up the gearbox correctly. They will have a procedure (actuated via diagnostics) to calibrate the the gearbox after any work so that it knows which gear it is in and performs as it should. Perhaps the gearbox calibration hasn't been done or more likely couldn't be done for some reason. The system will not allow calibration of any controller which it thinks has a fault. It might be that one of the many (sometimes simple) things that can prevent the start/stop from working is also preventing the correct set up of the gearbox.

We have my Wife's Toyota Yaris at 30 instead of 33 psi because the ride is better. We can both easily tell. It's quite harsh at 33.

I agree. Petrol stations used to be terrible for accuracy but they do seem to have improved a little. When I was in the trade I used to take the opportunity to use my MOT place's air line while my customer's cars where in their yard. (I used to always help them out with lifting, pushing dead cars, opinions and sharing special tools etc). I once found their air pump 9 psi high when I checked it later. To be fair they were quite ashamed and told me later on investigation they had found the needle on the gauge bent! Who can really say that their gauge uncalibrated gauge is true? I have a favoured gauge which has appeared honest over the years but I can only judge it against others that seem trustworthy and occasional TPMS reports as Ooopnorth says. 😊

If you can find someone local with VCDS they could a least check the brake pedal sensor and that the gear lever positions are being reported correctly. A faulty ignition switch is another possibility. Are there any other hints at all? Like unexpected or flickering dash warnings?

I agree with Dave but that's the reason to clear them and see which comes back. I wouldn't worry too much about any of them for now unless you are having other problems like not being able to select hot/cold reliably.

It's usually the damp environment under there that causes corrosion of the connector plug or the sensor itself. The air quality sensor can switch the flaps to recirc if it senses poor air quality it shouldn't really be connected with the hot/cold flaps but you never know. There is usually a calibration with those heating systems which can be done with VCDS diagnostics. It tells the system about the various flap positions so it can re-sync itself. The motors can fail though so they may need replacing. I think I would check/replace the air quality sensor then clear the codes and see which come back and whether they come back individually over time or both together since the codes are listed as 'intermittent'.

The air quality sensor is linked with the heating system in that signals from it can change the position of the heater flaps. I would start there. On most VAG cars it's found in the plenum chamber which is under the grille below the windscreen which is a damp place. There is a chance that the the sensor itself or the wiring to it is corroded. The stuck flap codes may or may not be part of the same issue but it's not a bad place to start. It's bound to mean wipers/arms off to get access to it if you are feeling brave. 🙂

If you can find someone on the VCDS list near you they can watch the switch respond (or not) live. I've changed plenty of VW window switches so maybe Skoda ones are no better. The switch on my VW van used to mess about if it got splashed by rain. I've got a cheap ebay one (£15 ish?) and it's been fine for the last 4 years so it might be worth just replacing the switch. They usually just pop out by using a screwdriver on one end (can't remember which but a pic of a new switch will give the game away.

It seems that the Wild West of England isn't very well represented here so I'll add myself to the list being in Newquay on the North coast of Cornwall. I have Hex Can.

That is the correct way to find it but the OP has 7 controllers that won't communicate and many of them are in horrible places for testing. I reckon it will be more than a single controller, more like a big broken wire somewhere so a good inspection of the loom is good basic start. Easy to say from an armchair I know!

I think it's worth having a close look with a torch along any of loom you can get at for any chafing. You might have to get it up on stands. Check especially around gearbox and steering rack. Have a (long!) read of this thread from the VCDS forum. It's about a Sharan but both the scan and the symptoms are very similar to yours. I must admit I wouldn't power it up too many times until the fault is found just in case you cause a direct short to earth on one of the larger cables which might create a fire risk. A day or two off and a fresh look and I'm sure you will find it Good luck with it. 🙂 Below is a VW forum picture posted by a VW Master Tech. It shows the sort of thing pronged chafing can cause. This one was simply a non-start but when these larger high current wires break or short across to another they usually cause the major problems you have. This one looks like it has been shorting and overheating.

I've just noticed that the Cent Elec controller (address 09) is missing from your scan. VCDS doesn't seem to be even attempting to find it. I think I would investigate that first. Not sure where it is on an Octavia (sometimes behind the dash and sometimes under the driver's seat) around your year they started physically combining them (in the same box) with the Conv Controller but VCDS and other diagnostics still counts them as separate things so it should appear on your scan like on my daughter's Fabia here: Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:| 6C0-937-089-V1.clb Part No SW: 6C0 937 089 C HW: 6C0 937 089 Component: BCM PQ26 Hi4R H08 0087 Serial number: 006098131354 Dataset Number: V03935239RD 0001 Coding: 0F0018404205405303A04080B10703081000D800D6013500000000000000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_BCMA0 005005 ROD: EV_BCMA0_005.rod VCID: 306BE4666B6CDE167B-8064 Edit - Apologies ignore this the 09 is on your list. Should have gone to spec savers!

That is a lot of 'can't be reached' faults. It does sound like the CAN communication is down as @langers2k says. Sometimes a single controller can broadcast rubbish on the network which can upset other controllers. Using VCDS you can usually look at the status of the CAN system and you may see something there. It will be under the live data and probably in the 'Cent Elec' controller. I think on your car you will need to click 'Advanced Measuring Blocks' and then look for 'CAN Status' in the pull down list. If that doesn't work because so much is down you may have to unplug one controller at a time as suggested to see if communication resumes. I notice the CAN gateway itself is working (and probably wondering why nobody will talk to it!) I have seen failing ABS controllers send the entire dash into a frenzy of wagging needles and winking lights.