Keencyclist

Here you go

From memory, pull the rubber part free from the fuel neck and then get your fingers behind it all near the hinge and sort of disconnect it by opening wider. There is nothing else to remove like screws etc. Hope you get sorted 👍. I don’t have the car now so can’t physically check for you.

Yes that also holds the front cover that’s around the fuel filler.

That’s correct, stop start is working but after a longer drive.

Thanks for your reply and Yes the horn does work fine, I do think the battery has depleted a little over winter and I was leaving a Bluetooth OBD reader connected which I have now removed. I will pulse charge the battery and get some longer journeys done.

Hi I have 2 codes after a VCDS check, one for climatronic and one for control circuit for signal horn, hopefully the pics are ok. Anyone have any ideas to resolve them? Thank you.

Thanks, I will get an extender so that can stay plugged in the car and the reader can be plugged in and out of the extender rather than the car. Just didn’t want to break the port on the car by repeatedly plugging the reader in.

Hi everyone, is the OBD port live even when engine is switched off? Just wanted to leave a Bluetooth elm327 connected all the time to save any stress on the car port itself. Thanks.

Yes, they have a fixed rod but slight movement with the elongated fixing holes.

Hi all, does anyone know what the max and minimum voltage range is for the boost actuator on a 1.6 CLHA engine. Many thanks just want to check it’s adjusted correctly as still get P2564 after changing the actuator.

Hi everyone, just wondering if any fellow Skoda owner with VCDS could help me out please? I am based in Widnes Cheshire. Much appreciated.

Ok so I have the pipes in the correct position, does a replacement N75 need coding or anything via VCDS?

Hi everyone, I have a 1.6tdi CLHA and asking if anyone can clarify what pipes are correct on the N75? at the moment mine are 1- to the air intake 2- to the actuator 3- down to vacuum pump (I think, it does split via a T piece) thanks.

Old post I know but did you sort yours out or find what pipe the earlier poster mentioned? Thanks.

Thanks for the info, yesterday I bought a vacuum tester and activated the actuator several times (it keeps pressure ok) fault was still there but it was close to a regen it then done a regen which lasted a lot longer than normal and hopefully it’s done the trick. Is it worth putting an additive in the diesel?