Rheumy

Yes it would. When you select a gear without the clutch and with the shaft effectively disconnected, the diff just spins allowing the gear to be selected because there is no drive being created. No load. You might get a slight clunk but that would be all. Years ago a giveaway would have been the speedo showing MPH while in gear but the speedo is worked by the ABS sensors these days.

Dive shaft stripped its splines? Common on some other VAG's. It would have exactly those symptoms. Sometimes accompanied by a grating noise but sometimes just put in in gear - no drive.

As far as I can make out not all controllers 'know' the time and date and even if they do they will record the time, date and mileage of the first event of that code and simply add 1 each time to the frequency counter thereafter rather than update the time/date mileage. I think Jez has a genuine case and he should be clear with the warranty company on the phone that he no longer feels safe driving the car. When the recovery guy arrives ask him for a copy of any codes. He can only say no but usually the dedicated VW/Skoda guys are quite knowledgeable and helpful.

I would pick a convenient place for you and just invoke the warranty and explain the faults exactly as they were were last time happened. There will be plenty of codes in the controller for the auto box recorded and saved. What appears on your dash is irrelevant to them other than a basic start. It is quite normal for dash warnings to disappear on a switch off/restart so whether it is there at the time or not is not a big thing. The Skoda recovery guy will probably already know about your problem if it is common and he is a clued up guy even if he isn't at liberty to tell you much about it. This tiny white lie pales into insignificance against the car losing power/selecting neutral or anything else you don't want to happen on a motorway.

You can still silence the alarm with a non-working fob because the small chip inside the fob continuously gives off a signal which the receiver in the ignition switch will recognise (even if the fob battery is completely flat) and once this 'handshake' has been completed the alarm will silence once the ignition is switched on and the car will also then be able to start. The little chip inside the battery needs no external power source. When you look inside a remote you can see the chip, it's just a small black ceramic thing glued in place with no wires. Although you can buy these chips cheaply (less than £5) it is useless unless it is programmed to your car which these days means a live connection over the internet to Skoda.

One useful feature I do know is right concerning the alarm is if you want to briefly safely lock a dog or young children inside the car (outside a shop or petrol station say) you can double press the remote locking button. This not only switches off the internal movement sensor part of the alarm it also changes the security level of the locks to single locked. This means that the doors can be opened from the inside but not from the outside. It's dangerous to lock anyone in a car with the usual single press because when the doors are double locked as they will then be, they cannot be opened from either the outside or inside in emergency such as a fire.

Apologies. I didn't realise the op's was keyless. The delay VW's have is quite handy. I can wear my surf key around my neck whilst out windsurfing and open the door with it with just enough time left to deactivate the alarm with the real key rather than have the alarm go every time I come in for a cuppa.

Not sure on Skoda's but on most VW's the key recognition is done only by the ignition switch. If you open the door using a the key rather than the remote you have about 20 seconds to put a recognised key in to the ignition and turn it on (you don't need to start the engine, just get the ignition lights up). This will keep the system happy and the alarm won't go off. If you are not quick enough and the alarm does go off, don't worry it will be immediately silenced by inserting the key and turning in the ignition. I have a non-chipped 'dumb' plain surf key (doesn't matter if it gets wet) and although this will unlock the door it will not turn off the alarm, you must insert the real chipped key (which you have have hidden inside the car) to avoid the alarm sounding.

Safety always comes first in the order of things so if any critical system develops a fault it will limit performance to persuade you to stop asap. Many other systems will come out in sympathy (and warning lights and codes) when they also don't get the constant messages they expect from their neighbours. It could be something as simple as a fuse or more involved like a break in the wiring or faulty controller. Good luck and fingers crossed for you! @Yorkshiremidge's video link is a good description of how interconnected these systems are on modern cars even if you don't particularly understand the testing procedures. Personally I'm glad I retired years ago!

It sounds like the CAN system is not functioning at all. One thing that can go wrong is a fault on another controller (ECU) on the system or an item linked to a controller which can cause the CAN system to go down by broadcasting garbage. It's interesting that you have so many right rear bulb codes. I think I would remove the right lamp holder to take it out of the equation. You may come across some corrosion or dampness there. If you can get access to VCDS you can see the status of the CAN connection for each controller (engine, air bags, ABS etc). Assuming you have enough communication at the time to make diagnostics possible which doesn't look very hopeful!

Excellent video! Down to earth and with no annoying music. I like the level of detail because if you seek out a technical video like this it's in preparation to actually do the job yourself rather than just an idle viewing so it is exactly what you hope to find. Maybe that mystery adjustment is so you can easily take it (electrically) out of park and perhaps cause a stuck gear lever to release. Anyway, well done sir. 👍

I thought I'd just my experiences with this job add this in case anyone else has this problem. I have my daughter's visiting with the grandchildren and the Fabia is up for the cruise control fitting, a service and an MOT. It had a 'Too Lean code' stored. It is a 2016 1.2 CJZD 4 cylinder 2821 - Bank 1; System Too Lean off Idle P2177 00 [01100000] - - Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear They live 300 miles away so I try and fix everything I can while they are here. @Crasher kindly suggested the oil separator as a good bet being a fairly well known fault for this code so I took a chance and fitted one. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04e103464am-oil-separator-skoda-35930.html I couldn't see anything wrong with it but the new separator (which is essentially a plastic box with a rubber pipe connection) did have an updated part number. I forgot to order a new rubber seal for it so I added a smear of Permatex Grey which is very similar to VW's sump/gearbox sealer around the old seal which looked to be in perfect condition. The code/EML hasn't returned (although it was intermittent so the jury is out) but it has cured the poor idling/chugging, almost stalling on first start up in the morning so I'm fairly hopeful.. 🤞 I presume it must have been PCV air leak leading to unmetered air entering the system. The job is pretty awkward and not recommended unless you are very patient! It's at the front of the engine roughly below cylinders 1 & 2. There is a close fitting cover over the separator which snaps off on release of four plastic clips. This is fiddley enough but then there are eight Torx bolts in the separator to get out. You need the correct length Torx bit and nimble fingers to reach the top ones! There are lots of reasons for a 'Too Lean' code including the O2 sensors so I know it was a bit of a punt.

Fitted the cruise control stalk today. It now has the mode button to toggle between the original speed limiter and the new cruise control. Everything was very straight forward except for me discovering that after fitting the new switch I had no wipers! After a short expletive moment I realised it was because I had the bonnet open and the wipers won't work unless it's closed. 😅 I have it booked in to a local indie here in Cornwall for enabling the CC which I can't do with my VCDS as it needs a live link to Skoda. They were very helpful on the phone unlike the dealer. They have quoted £75 + VAT. I used a second hand switch (£69) from ebay which @lewiswal47 kindly sent me a link to. I was very impressed with the careful packaging and the new-like quality of the part. For info - I used part number 6C0953501P. I could have used (if one was available) 6C0 953 513 F even though mine does have the MFA display. This is because mine has steering wheel controls so doesn't need the extra button on the RH stalk. It may be that a switch with MFA controls on the RH stalk button wouldn't have conflicted with the steering wheel controls but I like it as close to original as possible. My only difference now on the new stalk is the small mode button under the LH stalk and the word 'Mode' above it. If I had used 6C0 953 513 F it would also have needed a new slip ring and a bracket. Important- It seems that there are differences internally in the way the main beam in the switches work. It is possible to open up the switch and swap parts but if you want to avoid this, a general rule of thumb seems to be to look at the left hand stalk for a tiny +1. If this exists, only use a switch with the same symbol present. If your current switch has no little +1 don't buy a switch with it unless you don't mind a bit of extra faffing.

This was the log I made with VCDS. The top grey trace is the G62 the lower dark blue trace is the G83. You can see that the G83 line doesn't move until the thermostat opens and normal circulation begins.

88 degrees as a choice (by the ecu) sounds off to me because it's not showing any cooling done by the rad. I have logged and graphed the two sensors together on my VW diesel van and as the G62 records the warm up on a drive the G83 stays flat lined until the thermostat opens then it goes up to about 40 degrees and waves around that point according to load on the engine. If I had to chose a fixed value for the G83 it would assume that the radiator is doing some cooling.

I didn't know that but It makes sense. 👍

Apologies, in one earlier post I typed G83 for both coolant sensors. For clarity, the G83 is the cooler radiator outlet one and the G62 reads the hotter coolant as it leaves the head. Therefore I would change the G83 first since it's stuck. I'm surprised that the G83 could be used in controlling the fan because it always reads much less but I am more used to VW diesels these days. Obviously the wiring to the sensor could be at fault but the sensors do fail after a few years.

It's possible it doesn't exist on your model. If you look at the live data where you saw what the G62 was reporting (Advanced Measuring Blocks) you may see data for the G83 listed. If it's not there it your model doesn't have it. If you see data marked G83 it does. It's main purpose is to check the efficiency of the rad. It's normally reading 60 or so degrees below the reading from the G62. I think if you replace the G62 with a genuine sensor your problems should be over assuming the head gasket hasn't been cooked or head warped which hopefully it's not.

I'd avoid driving at those temperatures. The aluminium cylinder heads are a bit fragile. The G83 is usually in the cylinder head somewhere near the top. It almost certainly will have one. There is sometimes a second sensor (G83) which will be near the outlet at the bottom of the rad. That measures the coolant temperature after it leaves the rad. 125 c is just above the maximum for the oil temperature. Have a look around the top layer of the head. If you are not sure, take a wire off and see what vcds identifies for you. 🙂

I can only say for VW's and using VCDS diagnostics, but if you do have access to VCDS there is a procedure you can run through to calibrate any new heater motors or flaps. It calibrates them so they know where they are and what their normal range should be. You seem to have found a nifty work-around for this. 😎 I have read that on some vehicles it can be done via the MFD menu if you have that. On VW's this procedure usually only applies on cars with climate control.

Looking forward to seeing the movie! 😎

I'm still struggling to find the correct part for my daughter's car. It starts boggling your mind in the end. She has - speed limiter and MFA/onboard computer. The only problem is that the RH stalk has no buttons for the MFA. I think that because it has steering wheel controls the dash display is controlled by those. 6V0054800F looks like a good bet if I don't need controls on the stalk for the MFA. The only problems with that is that 6V0054800F has the little '+1' on the left hand stalk which as @Sbatchelor discovered appears to mean that if your old switch didn't have this +1 then a small part will have to be swapped over form the old switch to the new one to make the main beam work properly. I'd like to avoid this if possible. The second problem is I can't work out if I will need a new bracket and slip ring. It is listed as needing it if you are replacing a B version with F version. My original switch looks like it is a D version! If it really does need the new switch, slip ring, bracket, swap code and coding by Odis the price is starting to get beyond what is reasonable for us. Going back to the possible need for the slip ring and bracket, when @lewiswal47 bought his switch it had both the B and the F part numbers on it so it was impossible to say. He didn't mention replacing the slip ring so I guessing he didn't have to. Mind definitely boggled! 🥴

My daughter's Fabia 2016 1.2 dsg has this dash warning and the fault code. I looked it up a few months ago and saw the repair kit but as far as I know nobody has ever been left stranded so I was going to leave it for now. I'm already down to fit cruise control in a few weeks but so far the particular new switch it needs has been declared as obsolete. 🙄 I'll be looking out for your description/pics/prices of the gear lever job @Yorkshiremidge 👍

Finally getting access to the car again in a couple of weeks. I have read all the relevant links so I'm confident about the job now. I don't think I will need either the new bracket or slip ring since the car already has the speed limiter. I have checked the BCM and it is the ...89 version so that should be fine too. Since my daughter's car has the speed limiter and MFA/MFD I think the correct part should be 6C0 953 513 G IGI but an online genuine Skoda parts place I contacted says according to the VIN number it won't fit and they don't have a listing for anything else! I can't see why this is unless it's the headlamp main beam problem mentioned in the other cruise control thread. If anyone can help at all it is a Mk 3 1.2 DSG SE.

Same thing as the guy in my link above had then!