NormanE

That is just it, My Halfords dashcam worked perfectly connected USB-C to USB Mini. The problem is Viofo being unsure whether their dashcam will work from an ordinary USB-c to USB-C cable. I have only removed the old Halfords dashcam because the phone ap that you use with it no longer works and cannot be updated or reloaded.

Skoda have helpfully fitted a USB-C port in the console that holds the interior mirror. It powered my old Halfords dashcam via a USB-C to USB mini cable (Most older dashcams had a USB mini input port.). My Skoda dealer says that the USB-C port is intended for dashcam connection. I have ordered a new Viofo dashcam that has USB-C input, They supply a 12volt cigar lighter plug and a USB-A to USB-C cable to power it. Completely useless in the Octavia or any other modern car with no lighter socket, for which only a short USB-C to USB-C cable should be needed. On talking to Viofo via e-mail they tell me that an ordinary USB-C to USB-C cable might not work! They offer a "special" cable which is 3.5 metres long! and they say their shorter cables will not work! I await delivery of the dashcam. If it does not work from a short USB-C to USB-C cable it is going to be returned. I am not going to wire it in any way that needs me to feed a cable up a windscreen pillar with an airbag in it. Has anyone found a good make of 4K dashcam with a Sony Starvis2 sensor that is designed to be powered from USB-C and supplied with the right cable?

They did not offer me a service plan, so I have just booked with the local independent, which is also a VW group specialist.

I bought the new rim, delivered today after DHL took 10 days to deliver it! I am going to have a full size spare.

I have found a new rim online at a good price and am now trying to get the seller to look at the part number, meantime skoda-parts.com has them at a little over £300 plus delivery from the Czech Republic The local Skoda dealer is having a laugh with a £900 quote! Also, quoted me well over £400 (plus VAT?) to do the first service, just an oil change and brake fluid change. Local Indy is £250!

My 2024 Vrs has 19 inch Altair wheels marked internally with 5E3 601 025 T and SE3 601 025 AT also 7.5Jx 19H2 ET48. I have one damaged wheel that would cost about £200 to repair, and have found new wheels online at prices that make me think of buying one and using the damaged one as a spare. It will fit in the boot well. The trouble is that the new wheels have different part numbers e.g. 5E3 071 499 AB HA7. Is there any way of finding out which wheels are compatible despite different part numbers.

Thank you. A bit of searching in the app and I found it. Black Magic Pearl Effect (IZIZ)

Thank you all. No codes at all in my car or handbook, but I have ordered the right one.

My power boot lid was opened in the garage, and the garage door opener has put two chips in the paint. The car is a 2024 Octavia Vrs in black. Despite searching in all the places mentioned online I cannot find a paint code label anywhere. The original sales paperwork says Black Magic Pearl Effect. I have just ordered a touch up pen, which I hope is correct. Have other owners found a label on their car, if so, where?

They look good, but 19 inch wheels and low profile tyres are not a good idea on the dreadfully potholed roads where I live. I wish my VRS had 18 inch wheels for a better compromise between appearance and ride quality.

First registered April 2024.

I posted about turning off lane assist, and getting Scandinavian daytime running lights activated. I was going to buy an OBDII device and credits to do both with One Click Apps, but then I found this on the OBDII website: New Volkswagen Group vehicles starting from 2024 include updated security measures (UNECE R155 & R156, often referred to as "SFD2") that limit full access to all control units. OBDeleven can still communicate with the main gateway unit, but advanced features like full scans and adaptations may be restricted. We’re actively working with VAG and updating our software to ensure full compatibility with these new models. Their live chat thinks that my car probably has SFD2. Their device will detect it, but is plainly ridiculous to buy the device only to find that it cannot do what I want. Is there any way to check whether SFD2 is on my car, e.g. by VIN number?, or might Skoda have just put it in with an update?

I have a diesel Vrs, and (mercifully) I don't think it has a sound actuator. Either that or I am going deaf. It is good news if I can do what I want with the second generation as I really don't want to have to code the changes.

I wonder which kit I would have to buy to do what I want? I would rather that a garage did it, perhaps an independent VAG specialist?

I want to get two things done, firstly to have Lane Assist set to off, or to however it was last set. Secondly, to have the daytime running lights set in Scandinavian mode, which keeps the rear lights as well as the fronts on whenever the car is driven. Does anyone offer a service to set these, or do I have to buy the OBD11 kit? I guess that East Yorkshire Retrofit, who fitted my reversing camera, could do it for me, but they are a 500 mile round trip from my East Sussex location.

I think you need to do far more than just connect the camera. I had a reversing camera fitted to my car by Retrofit Solutions in Bridlington, and saw just how much was done to wire it in, and make sure that it integrated properly with the screen. The camera also needs aligning correctly, for which they have the correct equipment and floor markings. https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/

I think I may get the local independent garage, which is a VW group specialist, to do an intermediate oil change for me. I am a bit too old to get underneath cars these days. Even the Quantum Xtreem kit car that I had did not need me to get underneath, though changing its filter required loosening the engine mounts and jacking up the engine! This is the little beast, which was great fun and very fast.

Thank you both. I will have to get a Pela oil extractor. I had one on my yacht because you can never get at the sump plug on a diesel in a boat, but of course it was left on the boat when I sold it. I will use the VW branded long life oil in a kit complete with filter. It was much easier in years gone by when there were no sump guards below the engine, and most used a simple spin on filter.

My car has the extended service interval which means that the oil is not due to be changed for two years. I am considering doing an intermediate oil change after one year, using a vacuum oil extractor, and changing the filter. Does anyone else do this? If so, any tips?

Typical dealer trick. Years ago I imported a new Saab 9.3. Lovely car. After a year and about 12,000 miles I took it for service at the local Saab dealer, and was told it needed new discs and pads. I looked at them and told the dealer not to try and cheat me. I never went back to that dealer. I had it serviced every year by an independent Saab specialist, and it did not need new front discs and pads until it had done nearly 70,000 miles.

Very happy with my diesel VRS Mk4. The only annoyance is lane assist, but it is easy to turn off. It has adaptive cruise control, which I have not used much as the car has only been used in the UK as chemotherapy is currently stopping me from taking my usual long continental trips. I would far rather have the old fixed cruise control. Aside from those small annoyances, the car is very good. My old cars were a Jaguar XK and a Seat Leon, both of which had very powerful brakes, which could be quite abrupt on the Leon. I do find the Octavia brakes to be rather weak by comparison, although they are progressive. I do wonder if some more aggressive brake linings would be a good idea, though I think that the issue is really that the Leon had a lot more servo assistance.

Good idea, though my car does not have a rear wiper (it was a no cost option on the hatchback, but had not been specified) the fuse should be there. I do however want to avoid having to wire right through the car. I was hoping to run it from the 12 volt socket, but that now seems impractical, so was looking for a circuit I could tap into in the boot area. If the rear lights were lit when the car was running, they would be an obvious connection point, particularly if I could draw power from the rear lights on the boot lid.

I have a good dash cam in the windscreen, but nothing at the rear. I cannot get a rear camera that connects to my front camera. My idea to solve the problem was to fit a stand alone camera like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156577523699?_skw=dashcam&itmmeta=01JHQNF0TF174MJVJ572QWB6C7&hash=item2474bf67f3:g:p8sAAOSwvt9nWrN4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn5LrstUAPGQ6k9w9st8uBtbIQrsoGqn5xfFKTtaRtMIfEWB%2B6OZtlm84R6kACs2IWS1TDnpDkVmBAo9C6H96fngjLZsumzOlQXtOhWefqpciwlg%2FTZrOowMftDPhcQWdMYTjC2wMi%2FVm96DKCYZDbaK13XSL0WKYH9%2FNeAjvPJaqAhQIIEjN7%2Frrt7kT%2B5DHe2ONqwDm6JEJWpVh3BQ0b%2BGM47GKiakxbljS31oi6hEw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9KNvPWNZQ inside the rear screen and power it from the 12 volt socket in the boot. The problem with that is that the boot socket seems to have permanent power, whereas I need power only when the car is in use. Am I right about the socket? Is there anything I can access from the boot that has power only when the car is running?

I am quite OK with a space saver. All of them are only intended to be used for less than 500 miles and at no more than 50mph. I have had and used them before, but I have never before seen one with so little tread depth. LingLong may be a known brand, but that does not make it a good one.

I will try that. I routinely turn off Lane Assist but don't bother turning off ACC as I just have no use for cruise control except on a long journey.