bluevrsman

A month on an a trip to a specialist later, nobody seems to be none the wiser. The backing off has pretty much gone now, I haven’t experienced the push back sensation since fitting the new EGR. There’s just a definite power loss now. A delay when I put my foot on to the boost actually coming through. With the A/C on, it seems even more sluggish. Fuel pressure actual and specified seems fine. Boost actual and specified are a few hundred mbar apart until about 2,200 RPM where they meet. Injection quantities seem stable. I’m at a bit of a loss. Heat definitely has an impact, warmer the engine worse the lag.

Just an update regarding this. I took the EGR and throttle body off today and they were badly caked in carbon. They both cleaned up well and I re installed them. I forgot to plug back in the anti shudder valve / throttle body and the car pulled really well. Power was definitely back. It through an engine management light so I plugged it back in. Car is down on power again now. The valve did move free-ish but I wouldn’t say it was smooth. Aren’t these involved more than just car on and off on the EA189 diesels? I believe the EGR has something to do with them partially closing?

It does sound like the boost backs off and then goes again. As if it is being limited, halted, told to back off. I am thinking of pulling the EGR and ASV off and giving them a good clean. Then I’ll test the EGR in VCDS. Just wanted to see if anyone knew of a way I could actually pin point it using VCDS live data.

I forgot to add, it threw a code for the swirl flap actuator a few weeks ago. It hasn’t returned since I cleared it.

I have a 2012 Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 TDi common rail (CEGA) engine. It’s on 139k miles, EGR and DPF in place. Full service history, oil changes every 8-10k miles, had a major service 2 months ago oil and all filters changed at a VW specialist. A weird issue has occurred when the engine is warm. At 70mph, just over 2,000 RPM, in 6th gear light throttle maintaining speed, it feels like something is pushing the car back. At first I thought it was the wind, but it definitely isn’t. It is most common when I have to let off the accelerator and then put my foot back on, it feels like there is a restriction, it’s holding back a bit like a cough and a splutter. If I put my foot down flat it instantly clears up and the car pulls as it should. I only notice it in 6th, not 5th at 50mph for example. I am instantly thinking a badly blocked EGR valve. I have VCDS and it has thrown zero codes. I have checked the injection quantities and they’re all very good. The other possibility is the MAF. Ideally I want to prove which one is playing up before I take the EGR off or disconnect the MAF. What’s the best course of action in VCDS

What was it like for body roll with those springs on? Arms, bushes etc all in very good condition. The whiteline ARB I fitted really tightened the rear up. The rear springs look in very good condition, shocks are very soft now and the bump stops are in awful condition. I have had a lot of weight in the boot this summer (garden renovation). The front springs are heavily corroded and it seems to sit higher than my colleagues MK2 pre FL tdi VRS. I think it’s well overdue that’s for sure. Just need to pick a shock to go with the Eibach springs.

I have spoken with DPM Performance and the Eibach Pro kit is fine with Bilstein B4’s.

My Mk2 FL Octavia VRS TDI needs a suspension overhaul. It's running on it's original shocks and springs and they don't look great. Badly corroded. I have been looking at the Eibach Pro Kit as I don't particularly want to lower the car that much. I like it's height at the moment. The threads I have seen on here seem to recommend either the expensive B12 kit or B4 Sport shocks. Those threads are a few years old though. Any recommendations on what shocker is best to go with, with the Eibachs? I'm not against firming the ride up but don't want it to be crashy.

I have bought a brand new rear Whiteline 24mm RARB for my Octavia. I have had a read of the guide posted on here 15 years ago which is a great help. The poster replaced pretty much all nuts and bolts in that guide. Since that guide has been produced, others have posted saying the arb kit does not require any additional parts. They re-used everything. Having tackled the droplinks tonight which were tough to crack to say the least, I don’t want to reuse the nuts. They’re not in great shape so picked up some m10 nylons from Toolstation. The 10644701 M8’s that fasten the ARB to subframe look fairly corroded Do I need to order some new ones or can they be re-used!?

Usually around 15 mins for the cycle to complete.

It’s in a really difficult place to get a photo, simply because space is very limited. This is the best I could get. It is definitely the engine mount I have done 50 miles now with no noises. Not sure if the Octavia VRS has a different engine mount design to normal TDi’s but I have found a very similar design from a MK6 Golf.

Everything you have said sounds like a regen. You won’t get a dashlight until it fails multiple regens and the soot level starts to rise. It then means you need to take action. Usually when I notice the revs sitting on 1,000 rpm I just take it down the motorway a junction and back again in 5th gear. By the time I am home it is idling normal. Speaking to a mechanic he said the majority of DPF issues people get are people disturbing regens turning the car on and off due to them doing short journeys. When I got my Octavia it had a an awful remap on it and the VAG correction software. I was getting passive regens every 100 miles. I had the correction software removed and then a proper custom map. I get them once a tank now. Usually a 400 mile interval. That’s on Sainsbury’s diesel with a squirt of millers ecomax fuel additive.

I’ll try and get a better photo of the mount and bolt I tightened tomorrow. I am pretty sure it has to be removed to do the timing belt which was done in 2023.

It is the engine mount by the looks and tightening it up has sorted the problem. My next question is what are the torque specs on it?

This bolt is hanging out…..

I checked and the VRS diesel takes a 307mm spring by the looks. Unfortunately it’s not a spring that is causing the issue, it’s something else. Opened a new thread for help on that.

After my thread thinking I had a broken spring, due to a really loud audible knocking and grinding noise after hitting a pothole, I called the AA to stabilise the car and guide me to a garage. They came checked the front end over, both corners, no shock of spring issues. The guy felt it was probably a top mount. I limped it round to my mechanic who has had the car today and all ball joints etc are fine. The top mounts are fine. It has left him stumped. The noise is getting louder but I have noticed now, the whining noise when I go round left hand corners is related to the rpm of the car. Dropping the car off a speed bump causes the front drivers corner to clunk and sag and then the rpm grinding starts. I took it down a straight bumpy road at about 10mph earlier and over every bump the audible grinding / skimming noise happened. I have popped the bonnet tonight and behind the fuel filter by the alternator there is a sheered off bolt that goes into a silver looking mount. Has one of my engine mounts gone? Acceleration doesn’t seem to cause any knocking or banging.

Are these the correct part numbers?

I am 99% sure my Octy has a snapped drivers side spring. I hit quite a big pothole yesterday and heard a clunk. When turning the wheel to the left now, there is a grinding noise and dropping down off a speed bump it is clunking and creaking, feels disconnected and on the brink of collapse! I have checked Eurocarparts and can see they stock a front shock for ‘sports variant’ but no mention of a sports coil spring. On AUTODOC they stock two front sports spring. A pink red and white 993 053 307mm and a pink white red 997 857 307mm. Which one do I need for my diesel VRS? Does the diesel have a different shock too!?

This is at the front about 5-10cm in from the front box section. It’s definitely there on purpose. I think it’s covered in seam sealer on the other side as the hole is a lot smaller and you can peel it back. How old was your Octy when it started to rust? Good idea on the bung. I can’t believe how immaculate the sills are on mine, apart from where some daft tyre centre has jacked it up. Rear subframe has plenty of surface rust on it though.

It’s the weird shape that makes me think it’s not a drain hole but there is no corrosion on that sill at all. Weird.

I was thinking the same. The only reason I have my doubts is because the hole is quite jagged. Not a perfect round circle. I’ll let the waxoyl dry off and then try and get some better photos. It looks like there is seam sealer inside the one hole.

I have circled the holes as they’re quite difficult to see on the photos.

I have been waxoyling the sills and subframe on my MK2 fl Octavia VRS today. There is no visible corrosion on either sills they’re absolutely immaculate but there are two holes in each sill. They’re about 5cm in from the front sill, the same shape and diameter. Now looking at them, they look like corrosion but the metal is solid and there was no rust around them at all before I put on the waxoyl. Is it corrosion or is there a bung missing or something?

I’ll double check those. It passed an MOT in November and the brakes were exactly the same then. No evidence the fluid had been changed since 2015 so when it went in for its service, I got them to do the fluid too. Unfortunately, no improvement.