KiNeL

Maybe my car never read it! Is there perhaps an option in VCDS to inhibit it? Don't forget that my car is EU/Spanish spec so maybe a territorial difference. It's bonus as far as I'm concerned though as if it's not locking then it's one less thing to worry about going wrong lol Here's a question though, if the flap is supposedly locked with the car why is the actual filler cap itself lockable, is yours?

Having removed my filter I'm finding the same as the OP, all the debris is on the cabin side so despite Wino's annotated diagram, and the perceived logic, I have to deduce that cabin to outside IS the correct direction of flow, how else would debris collect on the cabin side otherwise? It's a genuine VAG 1K1 189 653 B dated 15:09:15 although I cannot discern a direction of flow arrow.

I wonder if such damage would have been coverd by insurance? If so writing off and buying back from the insurer might have been a profitable route!

The OP.

No, push to open, push close. Unaffected by locking the car. There is a spring loaded catch which pops in and out and rotates 90deg, it disengages/engages with the flap

I just happens that I'm replacing the filter in my car and it appears there are versions for LHD and RHD MANN CUK 2939 for LHD and CUK 2939/1 for RHD. BTW the price here in Spain (Amazon) is €10.43 or AUD 17 ! I can't believe the dealer price is $270!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm guessing that the locking flap was an option or maybe dependent on trim level as mine is simply push to open. Certainly not bothered about it as these 'toys' nice to have - until they stop working! Must be said that the dry climate in Spain helps in that regard, water/damp/condensation etc. are the arch enemies of electric/electronic gear and all to frequently the root cause of failures.

I saw that too, seemed like more of a palava than making a tool!

Having recently replaced my plugs I was reluctant to buy a special tool so made one myself from a 0.5m long piece of 20x2mm of ally bar. Folded it in half, bent a 25mm 90deg angle on' the bottom then cut/filed a slot in it to fit around the top waist of the plug cover. For extra pull I drilled a hole in the top to put a screwdriver through. Did the job quickly and efficiently.

Just for info I'm using the Bosch F 026 407 183 without issue. Previously had genuine VAG 03C115561H which BTW according to Amazon is incompatible with my 1.2 TSI engine!

Are these engines prone to being dirty? Yes it is the cover with the guard I was thinking of, unfortunately I can't seem to find a part number on it nor for that matter, despite the attached image, have I yet to find the engine number! Given that it's a nothing job I think I'll schedule in a peek under the chain cover then I'll know for sure what I've got.

Since xman casually threw "turbo actuators" into his reply to my earlier spark plugs thread I of course had to go and investigate! Seems I have got a shim behind mine (which I'm assuming is a good thing as it's a fix for a known problem) but it also prompts me to mention that I'm missing a screw/bolt with a hole in the turbo cover but nothing obvious below it for it to go into! What am I missing?

It's a CBZB engine and I'm tempted to pull the top chain cover just to see what's in there. Not sure at the moment if it would actually reveal anything useful (is it possible to identify the modified 'anti chain jump' top cover without removal?), but no doubt there are folk here who could tell by photos. Yes I'm aware of the rattle and what it potentially means. Had to think about it for a moment but yes, I understand. It's substantially flat hereabouts and I'm not given to parking in gear but will bear this in mind, training 'er indoors might prove more of a challenge! In place and intact. I'll check this morning. Best not! Thanks for the detailed post

Heat shields all in place and nothing looks untoward. No evidence of any leaks so more likely the second option, overzealous engine pressure washing perhaps? I have no service history for the car which is why I'm starting with a blank sheet with an oil and filter change and new spark plugs. That said the engine has very clearly been worked on in the past as at the very least there is unmistakable evidence of the head having been off, traces of non OEM gasket goo etc. It runs perfectly though and is very quiet with just a hint of valve train noise when the bonnet is up, oil consumption over the 1000km or so I've driven it has been zero. For the record I'm an old school amateur enthusiast who and can pull and rebuild an MGB engine or gearbox/overdrive in a weekend with my eyes closed and one arm tied behind my back but not at all ashamed to admit that all this modern witchcraft leaves me a bit nonplussed!

Just replaced the plugs in my 2011 1.2TSI Yeti and judging by their external appearance it may be their first time out! I believe they are specced for 60,000 miles and with the car recently turned 100,000km (I'm in Spain) if they are originals then they are fractionally over that. In the photo they are L to R 1-2-3-4 and 3 & 4 look considerably weaker than 1& 2, is that normal?

No apparent means of support then, I though I might have been be missing some clips from the empty holes but seemingly not. Time to get creative methinks.

2011 1.2 TSI Don't know what's gone on here but could someone post a photo of how it should be so I can rectify it?