KiNeL

Yes, apart as I said from that one initial 'foot hook'- and even then the pedal has risen up on it's own albeit only to about a half way position - it has always felt normal. I did not need to remove anything for my photo of the slave. Already got a new master, €45 from Amazon, just got to find the time to fit it! Interesting video but I know for certain that there is nothing wrong with the clutch itself and my slave is external and at around the same price as the master so not a wallet busting job, back busting is something else! Why do they need to make something as basic and simple as a clutch master cylinder so complicated. I could happily do without the clutch depression to start too!

It's got weirder. Driven not far short of 200 miles now with no problems, came out of the hospital about an hour ago, stuck it in reverse and nothing, car didn't move. Clutch felt perfectly normal pressure wise but with my foot OFF the pedal completely I could cycle through all the gears as if it the pedal were fully depressed or the engine not in fact running. Switched off and restarted and suddenly it's working again, has got to be sticking master cylinder but strange that apart from that initial 'foot hook' incident the pedal has never felt anything but normal.

Driven about 30 miles today and the clutch has behaved perfectly normally. Definitely odd

Thanks. Only driven a few miles since it happened but will be out again today. Given that the foot hook worked I'm now more inclined to see the problem as the master not the slave, can't see how that would have any effect on the slave. As I said no apparent loss of fluid. Having now had a good look neither cylinder is much of a job to replace so that's a relief. For what it cost's I might just replace the master anyway - maybe even both - a couple of hours in my garage is infinitely preferable to the ignominy and inconvenience of a total failure on the road!

My slave is external with a bleed nipple, this is a 1.2 CBZB engine. Not showing any loss of fluid in the master cylinder. Never a good time but this couldn't happen at a worse one as my wife is in hospital having busted her hip and I'm back and forth to the hospital 2-3 times daily.

Driving around this evening noticed that the clutch pedal was well down with only about 50% of normal travel, seemed to be working OK though. I hooked my foot under the pedal and pulled it up to where is should be and somewhat surprisingly it stayed there and is now working perfectly normally. Thoughts?

One of the first things I did to my paupers spec model. Unfortunately not many scrap Yeti's here in Spain and the only one I did find was RHD so had to buy a cheap plastic Chinese thing from Aliexpress. Does the job well enough. Does the job well

41-43 seems exceptionally poor for a 1.6 diesel, I'm averaging ~41 in my 1.2TSI. If my wife didn't drive it it would probably be closer to 45!

You need aircon at 10.4 deg at the fag end of November?

IPA = India Pale Ale, never knew it had deep cleaning properties!

Had a rattle when going over bumps rom the rear of the car since I bought it but determined to find it today - and I have. Problem is what to do about it because it's inside the petrol filler pipe/assembly arrowed in the photo. I'm thinking to inject some expanding foam into it either by removing the plate (circled) or else just drilling a hole in it. What does the team think and what is it anyway, something to do with a closed loop evaporative system I'm guessing?

Unless exceptionally low mileage it's a fair bet that any early 1.2TSI engine which has reached 10 years of age will have had it's chain and tensioner replaced. Without confirming documentation unfortunately there is no way of proving it.!

Subjective indeed. 100% diametrically opposed to you here in Spain dry performance and road noise are my equal principal bullet points. If buying 4 new tyres today I'd probably plump for Hankook, Michelin Primacy might be fractionally better but IMO not worth the £40 price differential.

No cynicism there then

What is it that you find 'less than ideal' about them? I have them and have no cause for complaint although living in the hot and dry Spanish climate clearly my demands from tyres are going to be considerably different to yours in the the UK! They were originally on the back of the car with a pair of crummy but near new Champiron VP1's on the front. Those were quite noisy however swapping the Goodyears to the front made a dramatic difference to that. I'm no fan of odd tyres so near new or not the Champirons are going in favour of another pair of Goodyears.

Has an excess for a broken windscreen now become the norm with UK insurance, never used to be but having been out of the country now for some 15 years I'm a bit out of touch. No excess here in Spain where insurance comes with basic 'roadside repair or get you to a suitable garage' breakdown cover. Premium for my car was €290 (£244) and insurance is for the car not the driver which means with my permission anyone over 25 can drive it. This is common if not the norm in most European countries, UK (once again) being a bit of an odd man out in insuring drivers. JR: I bet he never parked across your access again though

You do indeed learn something every day! I noticed that bracket when I had the A pillar trim off to run the wiring for reversing sensors (display in new rear view mirror) but had no idea what it was for - now I know. Not that I'm likely to use it though as in nearly 4 years living in Spain I've yet to have to pay for parking anywhere! Nearest I 've come is at Alicante airport where the access to departures drop off is free but limited to 10 minutes controlled by barriers for which you have to take a ticket to get out the other end. BTW here because yesterday I discovered a 2" crack in my screen directly under the rear view mirror fixing point

Absolutely, consider it a blessing! not a short coming!

After 8 years, and Given your self confessed need of help with the job of changing it, I think a new battery would be a prudent investment but to hell with the AA, at those predatory prices it's hard to think of a better reason to NOT shop with them!!!!!! In any case you don't need 60 or 70Ah, 45/50Ah is perfectly adequate. Buying bigger than necessary is a waste both in terms of money and extra weight to be dragging around. Find a local independent car accessory shop, a good one will give you a good price and and free fitting on the spot, you're looking for a 26R battery. I recently replaced mine from Amazon and with Prime free delivery it only cost me just €49 (£42). I should perhaps add that being in Spain cold starting is not a phenomena I face so with my demands on a battery being more modest then they would be in UK I'm perfectly happy to buy on price alone. Batteries these days come pre-charged and ready to go.

One more thing to go wrong I'm glad my S model Yeti doesn't have

New filter fitted and airflow understood. Sorry for the delayed update. Thanks all

No but from the handbook; The fuel filler cap on the fuel filler tube must be unlocked to the left using the vehicle key (only valid for vehicles which do not have automatic unlocking of the fuel filler flap). So it's either locking filler cap or locking flap - not both. Locking of the filler cap is optional, I don't bother.

For info I'm looking at a different diagram to you directly applicable to my 2011 car. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2011-666/8/819-819020/ In that where exactly does the filter fit?

Your arrows appear to show air flow from from the engine side through the filter into the cabin. Unless I'm reading it back to front but the orientation of the filter suggest not.

LHD, I'm in Spain. Clue in the part no. also 1K1 1st. photo is cabin side.