Skodaudi

Certainly interesting. I believe that the temperature that is shown with the gauge is read from the cylinder head. If your tool reads the outlet from the radiator it would make sense in this case. However it would not make sense with the earlier readings if the thermostat was closed. What year the car it is? Do you happen to know what ea211 variant it is (model code)? I believe you have another coolant circulation for the charge air cooler + exhaust around turbo. This circuit has its own electrical coolant pump that should run on demand. Theoretically if it runs all the time it would cause excessive cooling, but I think it is isolated from the main coolant circulation so should not cause your problems. But i guess it could be possible if the isolation is also failed. You friends VCDS/ODIS whatever VAG tool could be used to see if the pump is running even when the car is cold. Since you mentioned transmission, some engines have separate thermostat or valve for gear box cooling but I think it is only for more powerfull engines and not the case with 1.4 tsi. Failure of these 'dsg thermostats' cause some temperature problems but not as dramatic as yours. The webasto. Well it should not cause cooling but theoretically if there is multiple problems with it, it could be cooling the coolant to some extent but i dont believe it. The unlikely scenario would be that it runs automatically everytime you start driving and the system works even tho there is no flame in webasto (should not work then), meaning the webasto water pump runs and the combustion air blower blows cold air into the combustion chamber, making it basically a cooler instead of heater. However now that I think it, it would not have enough cooling power to cause your problem even in this case... Well okay your webasto is installed by a third party so in case it is installed somehow wrong (wrong pipes or something) then maybe it could related. Have you used the webasto? Does it work? I still see most likely reason to be one of the two thermostats being faulty somehow. Or the charge air cooling circuit running all the time and being connected to main circuit.

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Yeah for spare wheel I would just go with a steel one. It is not like you gonna drive with it for long and perhaps never. Reasonable / normal scout tires are quite high profile and not the first ones to surrender due to potholes.

I wud take the blower out and see if there is some trash. Youtube has many tutorials for octavia 3 blower motor removal, easy job.

One cud have extra weight on passenger side screaming not to do it, causing hesitation and canceling the launch 😔 Regarding the original question, if it works it you did not kill it

If the main thermostat works it is hard to believe that the car does not heat up. Have you tried with your hand that the thermostat is and radiator are cold after driving? (dont hurt your fingers with the fan). Otherwise I wud suggest that the temperature sensor gives faulty readings. Try to check in morning before driving what the scan tool says for coolant temperature and is it close to outside temperature? However, if the temp sensor is faulty and coolant is hot, one wud expect hot air to cabin, except if the car wont let you draw heat from 'cold' coolant by controlling air flaps to heater matrix. Or you cud simultaneously have blocked heater matrix but that wud be unlikely.

If you need to claim warranty on the gear box, do not tell it was serviced in between the official 80k miles services. Was brake fluid changed when brakes were done? First change should be done after 3 years and then every other year.

I believe it is same for any awd mk3 octavia, so no 'scout extra' in it. I cant help further, hopefully someone knows more. I would do the same to try diagnose if the rear differential is OK. And change the oil in it to see how it is. I guess it would also make some noise while driving if something is wrong. And is the haldex system there? That could have problems also. Any possibility to ask wtf is going on from where you bought it?

So you have a fwd scout? That is quite extreme lol. I wonder why it is missing, problems with rear differential? Up to 06.06.2016 the part number seems to be 5Q0521101AK and after that 5Q0521101BB. Idk if they are interchangable, but perhaps the numbers and google can give you idea what models share the same shaft, if any.

Dashboard shows if a door is open or closed, not if it is locked, right? The door locks may have separate switch for locking of the doors.

Tbh I wud be more worried about the brakes. Minor oil leak in a 10+ year old car is quite common and often does not require urgent attention depending on where it does leak (to a belt or so) expect if it fails MOT bcs of it. Of course it is always better to not have a leak. It is good plan to monitor that oil level does not drop and learn what is leaking and how much. The brakes, see how they look. If not familiar, google how disks and pads should look / how thick pads should be and how the disk should look like. If the caliper is seized the brakes wear fast and may get very hot during casual driving (the caliper pushes that pad to the disk all the time, basically braking all the time).

Surely you want to get your brakes sorted, however the price is ridicilious just for diagnosis. I would just get the rear brakes replaced (disks & pads, calipers if really needed), perhaps in more reasonable carage. Brakes are a wear item so wud not expect compesation from warranty. Oil leak. I would try to see how severe the leak is and then decide if I would just live with it. Or if it fixable with new seal or something. The price seems high. Undertay, again would check how bad and probably just live with it or fix it with some screws or whatever is needed. Oxygen sensor is most likely something you need to get changed anyway. Perhaps other garage cud do it cheaper? All in all, take it to somewhere else. Ask what the warranty covers and if they have a place where the work should be done under warranty.

From underboost code I wud expect a leak / crack in boost pipe or a vacuum leak. What engine? I believe sticking turbo vanes usually cause overboost.

Yeah I have been told heater matrixes fail often regardless of tea bag parties. It also cud be the flaps that control air flow to the heater matrix, but I believe the matrix itself is more common to fail.

This has been done to my mk3 at 200k km, same story, seized adjustment bolts and one of the lower control amr bushings was about to surrender. Both upper and lower control arms were replaced. The garage had to drop the subframe to get the seized control arms apart. Had to be done to get alignment done. The job pays itself back when tires last longer and also the car is better to drive. Btw, rear sway bar links were also done since they were easy and cheap to do while at there. Idk if there was any actual need for it. Ps. I also expect the rear subframe to be first major problem with MOT in future, I wish that also the rear wud have some sort of undershield for weather protection. Front subframe is in so much better condition. Edit. I got and recommend using Lemförder control arms if you plan to keep the car as long as possible. I believe they are the OEM manufacturer, not sure tho, but good quality regardless.

Hi, no problem with 7,5x17 ET45 and 225/45. Should look smart 👍