Skodaudi

Hi, I have 2015 2.0 TDI CUNA and I live in Finland. In 20 minute highway trip it easily reaches 90 C with/without wind mask & with/without Webasto. Seems you have some issues. You could try how the hose to radiator feels after 30 minutes of webasto use before you start the car. If it is obviliously faulty it will be warm. Does not necessarily mean the thermostat is OK if the hose is cold since it also can open early ie. at 75 C which is more likely to be reached during driving. So if the OBD says the temperature is 75 C you could also try the radiator hose after driving since the thermostat should not be open. Be careful with the fan and your fingers. Oil temps seem normal tho, might be the sensor. Also, faulty thermostat usually causes webasto to seem heat weaker than before, have you noticed this?

The DQ250 (6-speed wet clutch) DSG is robust one. It is paired at least with the 184 hp version. Both 150 and 184 have high mileage examples but also bad units exist. Generally OK. Around the facelift time (2017) they got better oil rings IIRC. Mk3 has much less EGR problems. DPF is what it is, really depends on how the car is driven. Nothing terrible, just as any other. I believe when coming from a decent BMW to Octavia, big difference is overall quality of the interior and soundproofing. That is rattles, wind noise and tyre noise. Perhaps not that bad because of the age difference of the cars. But be prepared for that.

Flick down to change to sport, flick down again to change back to drive (normal).

You can try to lubricate the mechanism, see some instructions here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530832-another-driver-door-not-locking/ Otherwise, I wud say that lock has to be replaced or repaired. Really need to take it apart to see what is broken or if through out cleaning and greasing fixes it.

Perhaps one of the door locks is not working. Lock the car and check if any of the doors is unlocked.

I dont know, but I guess it is worth a shot. Takes few minutes. If the actuator has failed then it wont help but also lubricating might help the actuator work. Since you can lock and unlock with key it is very fast to try lubricate it. Just lock it while the door is open, spray lubricant, unlock and lock-unlock few times with the key.

Kopacek

Tailgate window seal?

Similar to this: However, in mk3 octavia behind the rubber cover there is turnable thing instead of pushing, check owners manual. Then, instead of closing the door, close the locking mechanism in the gap below ie. by pushing it in with a pencil (where the hinge in the frame would go when you close the door). Now lubricate the mechanism with something like CRC/WD40/Vaseline spray. Then open the lock from the inside door handle. Close and open few times to spread the lubricant. Hopefully it is now fixed.

I have had similar issues with one of the doors. I manually closed the lock with a pencil few times (open it by the inner door handle) and same time sprayed some lubricant there. Been fine since.

I only now watched the video in OP's post. I had exactly the same behavior with faulty crankshaft sensor, especially with warm engine. It sometimes registered intermitten error about the crankshaft position but it also clears fast by itself.

Also, crankshaft position sensor is somewhat common to cause no start/hard start. I'm on my third sensor. And if I recall right, up to 2015-2016 there was kind of oil pressure bank (small vessel) for the vvt system in the TDI's causing the same problem. Often with some sort of crankshaft position related fault codes.

It has something to do with lower resistance of the aftermarket LEDs, somehow messing up the boot CU. Here is two threads, however it is about faulty boot open warnings, but it comes from boot CU right? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490826-the-most-bizarre-lighting-issue / Also check this: Your suggestion sounds reasonable. I guess disconnecting the battery is also the best possible reset for the CU without better tools / knowledge.

Idk if it possible to 'hard reset' the CU. But yes, it can fail partially and still seem to operate fine. However in such case there is good change to visually see damage in the board or so, which you already checked. One more thing what might be the cause in both cases is the opening button / release handle in the boot. They fail some time and prevent opening even by key fob and cabin button.

Are the LEDs from superskoda/kopacek or ebay/aliexpress type of leds? Especially roof leds might mess up with boot. If they are some cheap chinese kind of, they might be the cause. Try to swap oem bulbs to see if that helps. The boot problems might start even like one year after swapping to aftermarket leds without enough resistance.

Ok I expected the relative position to come from the struts. For the lock position as percentages does not sound reasonable, there is just a on/off switch. The closing assist might have position transmitter. Have you tried if it moves with vcds and if this relative position changes? And have you adjusted the desired opening position for the tail gate after replacing the struts (open manually to desired height and then press the closing button until you hear a multitone sound), perhaps this can be related to the relative position. Probably you are right with the CU, but I guess these are worth to mention. @matrick173 Have you adjusted the desired opening position after strut replacement? Also, if you have someone with surely working struts try to swap his struts into your car to see if they are the reason. Such cheap random chinese struts might simply just not work. Both, any 3rd party LED bulbs or other electronics anywhere in the car? Would not be first time they mess up boot communication.

I have replaced the motor struts, lock and the tightener, all for different reasons. However, the problems you are describing sound like the time when the strut motors needed replacing. OP told he replaced the strut motors with ones from ebay. What struts you bought from ebay? @Skoda-scouting have you checked the wiring from the struts? Inside the rubber cover there is often broken wires, if the wire for motor position is broken it could falsely tell it is 100 % open.

Btw, are you 100 % sure there is no auto hillhold function?

By activation do you mean when the start stop shuts off the engine? And sound comes back when engine turns on again? I did also think about the fuel pump but with the job list there should not be reason for any changes to it and also I dont believe anyone should notice fuel pump sound while engine is on. And op has petrol car so I dont believe fuel filter has been changed, also not listed. With the job list only reasonable cause would have been that something dropped into the cabin blower during pollen filter change but that is also ruled out already. Anything else should not have required any dismatling or so that could lead to cause extra humming. Of course they might have done whatever random stuff..

Did you try to turn the fan completely off?

Can you tell everything that was done in the service?

Weird if the fan spins right after start-up. I take it the car was cold? Sudden drop feels like G62 gives faulty readings? Or perhaps the charge air cooler pump turned on. Or thermostat opening and staying open. When you disconnect G83 ecu might have to assume that coolant needs cooling and spins the fan just to be sure the car does not overheat. Have you tried disconnecting G62?

The voltages are absurd. Are you confident the used meter is working OK? It sounds like the voltages are approximately double of what they should be. And that sounds dangerous, like having a hydrogen electrolyser under the hood lol. Octavias should have common ~12 V rest voltage and 14-15 V charging voltages. I wud expect the battery to be dead already if the readings are correct.

If the charge air circuit pump remains as a suspect, perhaps some circut diagrams could reveal what possible sensor may trigger it to run (outside temp, intake air temp, etc.) and then I would try to see if any of those temperature sensor give unplausible readings (a proper scan tool would be needed). Or as more straight forward option perhaps just check all temperature sender readings anyway if you get a change to use such scan tool.

Might be possible that cold enough weather has not triggered the charge air circuit pump and thus it is not cooling now. Yet I feel the cause is more likely one of the two thermostats at the water pump. But I follow with interest what the outcome will be. Surely this will get sorted out eventually I will also be very surprised if the webasto system is the cause. If installed correctly I can not believe it would cool the engine so much even by the very unlikely theory I presented. How you plan to disconnect it? Unplug power to its pump and blower? That should disable the possibility of it causing the cooling. Total removal includes water and fuel lines etc. Edit. And yeah you dont have gear oil cooler. And only two coolant temperature sensors, one at cylinder head (G62) and one at radiator outlet (G83).