Skodaudi

Do you mean outside the valve, on the engine or piping? That ofc is not normal. Oil inside the piping after the pcv is normal. Where exactly? outside the sensor? If you unplug the connector, is there oil in the connector?

Google dual mass flywheel to see if symptoms match.

It is exactly those additives with nitrates that increase the combustion and exhaust temperatures. With external spray cleaning it is also possible that the cleaning spray has dissolved oil or other dirt, that has then accumulated to dpf surface and started to smoke during a dpf regen (in this event, exhaust gas and dpf temperatures are also elevated for the regeneration) or because of the additive. This would be better scenario since then there is no actual damage at the dpf or cat.

Some of the dpf cleaners work by increasing exhaust gas temperature and burning the soot in the filter that way, what could cause burning through / leak in the exhaust equipment. Other, I wud say better, dpf cleaners work by decreasing the temperature needed for soot combustion and dont increase the exhaust gas temperature. Do you recall what brand you used? With engine cleaner, do you mean engine flush before an oil change? As precaution I wud fill the tank with diesel to dilute the dpf cleaner.

Diesel particulate filter (DPF) and catalysator are there in somewhat combined unit. I guess it was related to dpf regeneration, thus not smoking later. Probably will smoke when it regens next time (burns soot in the filter). And to be clear, there should not be smoke in the engine department, the dpf (or the cat) is leaking.

Manual says yes, but I have never bothered. Everything seems to work fine and no problems in MOT.

Are you sure it is the tail gate motor? Such sound after the lid closes is typically caused by the tightening motor, the counterpart of the lock. It has at least one plastic gear where some of the teeths break, causing gear skipping and the noise. Eventually it might not be able to properly tighten the boot lid. Can be checked ie. by closing the lock with a screwdriver or by operating the tightener with vcds.

I wud check battery and alternator condition first

I had a 2.0 TDI (CUNA) behaving similarly, somewhat often while starting warm engine, it cud start easily but shut down immediately, like the starting process had been cut off too early. Few times it did it also with cold engine. Reason was camshaft position sensor. Easy DIY job. Might be that, can not say for sure ofc. Caught it with VCDS, intermittent implausible signal from the sensor was stored in the engine fault codes memory, even tho engine module was not highlighted as red in auto scan gateway installation list, how it usually is if there is fault codes stored. Edit. CUNA has variable valve time system and I believe that is why the sensor cud cause such problem. Perhaps check first if CKFC has it too. And it might also be fault in the variable valve system, but I wud expect fault codes from that.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT

Unfortunately, for me it seems that modifications don't increase the value, except if you find the right buyer. Generally it makes the car harder to sell IMO.

I think more full the DPF is, more the car is consuming. However, I do not believe that is the only reason for such consumption. Perhaps injectors play some role in that too. If you have VCDS or something equivalent, you cud check injection deviation values. And what comes to dpf intervals, vcds can tell when last regeneration has done and can help in that way. However it is quite easy just to reset the trip meter after regens and follow the intervals "manually". And with vcds you can check dpf pressure difference to get idea of its health state. Best to check at idle after a regen, below 10 mbar / 10 hpa is OK. Lower the better. Also try to give some throttle while stationary, should stay below 100 mbar at 2500 revs. I am at 10 hpa in idle and the dpf is quite full, regens every 200 km or less if just city driving. I am consuming 6,4 l/100 km according to the computer and about 7 l/100 km in reality. 250 000 km on the clock. Edit. I have CUNA also.

Thanks for the comments! Yeah there seems to be three bolt thread variants for the flange, M10x23 mm, M8x48 mm and M10x52 mm. Sounds like the 23 mm was correct one in your case and then probably on mine too. And btw for any future readers, Skoda dealership confirmed the part numbers to be what were suggested above: Left: 5Q0 407 271 L Right: 5Q0 407 272 EP

How has it been after some time? We have same job coming and again the Scout trim makes part sourcing pain in the arse. Subject is also a 2015 scout. Original axles have following numbers: Left: 5Q0 407 271 CP Right: 5Q0 407 272 DL At least the stickers were good quality 😁 With the original codes only used axles from Scouts are found. According to my research suitable part numbers are: Left: 5Q0 407 271 L Right: 5Q0 407 272 EP These also give the axels you have fitted. However I think we will go for SKF. If they dont last, then Spidan. The original axle prices from skoda are such a joke.

Nowadays you have to be careful where you book a time for trans specialist. I woke up as a woman while I was pose to get my dsg mechatronic serviced 😔

I dont understand why bursted bag would change the coolant color. The coolant is in contact with the bag and the silica inside it all the time regardless.

235 on 7.5 is not that bad. Standard set on scout is 225 on 7.0, so even less ideal but is OK. Such tire-wheel combos where the tire is noticeable wider that the wheel, give better protection for the wheel but might look and even feel less sporty. Perhaps not ideal for a RS.

Clutch?

I dont believe abs and tpms firmware to be problem because I have driven with one different size wheel-tyre combo (smaller spare tire). First the TPMS though it had lost pressure but after resetting the tyre pressure thing on media player screen it was ok until I got new tire.

Made in USA?

Perhaps interesting:

Mk3 diesels dont have a dsg thermostat like mk2. And mk3 petrol vrs has a valve instead of a thermostat. Edit. The temp sender is in the head, after it has absorbed heat from the head. I also dont see 75 C to be reasonable temp there.

Did you try the radiator hose? I wud have expected 100 C oil with such drive but I dont know should it get there. Do you have wind guard for top grill? I guess that would help enough and not block too much in any case. And why you dont use Webasto while driving until the temp gauge is at 90? I think it is better to get to operating temp asap. I often keep webasto on until gauge 90 and then few more minutes, especially on city driving.

I know it shows 90 C in range of something like 75-110 C. But yes if you use webasto to heat the coolant for long time and turn ignition on the gauge may go ie. to 80-85 and stay there. Also it has stayed and moving between 90-110 while having fun in snow for too long. I dont believe it is as bad as here is always pointed out. And as I said, while I have been looking at something else with VCDS, I have seen it to be close to 90, less or more, while operating and gauge at 90 so I know it is not typically 75 C as in OP's case.

Yes it reaches 90 C (by the gauge) way before the 20 minutes are done, typically half way (5 mins of city drive and 5-10 mins of highway, depending on weather etc.) For other reasons I have seen the temperature been close to 90 when gauge says so, but I have not checked/monitored what VCDS says the temp is when the gauge first time reaches 90 C. But I am quite confident it is not 75 C. I had webasto problems and when webasto had heated the coolant to 70 C (VCDS reading) the gauge was very close to 70 C. I have a Scout and it has basically open bottom honeycomb grill similar to VRS. VRS might have taller bottom grill since scout has that extra bumber thing, not sure. The top grill is half way open (lower part of it). I dont believe this is the reason and was not this a recently developed problem? Yes when thermostat opens like it should (87-92 C I think) the hose to radiator warms up. Should be cold before that. I think you would have noticed difference in webasto preheating performance if you had stuck open thermostat. But as you said it might be partially open or open early. In current +5 C weather with masks (top and bottom) I end my 20 highway drive with 110 C oil. I just took them of and now the oil is 95 C in end of the drive. I usually put on and remove the bottom mask when I change summer/winter tyres. Then typically from december to march I also have the top mask on. If I wud only do city driving I would keep both masks for the winter tire season. However, it is not necessary and many do not do it. But I believe it is worth it in long run. There is a oil cooler where coolant flows on other side so cooler coolant would cool the oil more.