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One more question are the 1.4TSI timing chain or rubber belt? I looked on Google it shows both timing are chain and belt.

Blimey! that sounds bad, I did not expect these VAG have so many issues with TSI. I better thinking twice what to do next. Thanks for the link :thumb up:

Suddenly my job as relocated to Ulez zone in Upminster from Brentwood in May, my Octavia 2.0tdi won't be qualified. The new job premise have car park so I won't have to use train as it is shocking expensive. I was thinking to swap same type car but to 1.8tsi or 1.4tsi are free Ulez. I want like to know if these engine are bulletproof, I have read few says timing chain is only weakest of the engine range, anyone experienced on TSI please share if are good or should avoid. Thanks.

A pothole lump flick from car in front of me it hit my lamp, plastic lens cracked also the plastic box as well! I looked on eBay used for one £200 with £14 delivery!!!!!! I was wondering if I get normal headlamps and fitting LED would that be brighter over my standard HID? anyone can confirm? Used standard headlamps total of £84 with £24 LED H7 much cheaper, a better option? Was the Xenon standard or option on Elegance? Thanks

Recently had an issue with a flat spot under 2,400rpm feels like no turbo boost, a fault cam speed sensor replaced, the error code went away, then it came back with P0341 so it wasn't the sensor faulty. I have looked at the turbo, injections, MAF and vacuum pipes, all are fine. I had to look at the timing belt, because recently I changed the timing last December. Unfortunately I have found that the timing is moved one tooth back, not forward, the tension mark is a bit over the line. I read that it's quite common for weak tension on the BKD engine, mine is a 2.0 TDI 140bhp PD. Does anyone have this issue before? I bought another tension, I hope is better stock INA cambelt tensioner the previous cambelt kit was call Firstline.

I mean over limit of 300 mg/stroke not 380.

I have fitted the cam sensor, no error. I have adjust torsion value at zero if that's correct? But the air mass was 477 mg/stroke over the limit of 380. So I have bought OEM MAF rather than Chinese. Now it reads 556 mg/stroke. But the car runs lovely plenty of torque under 1,800 rpm. Anything to worry?

I have diagnostics again never had P0341 before on my first diagnostic, MAF is above the level. I have cleaned. Need new MAF and cambelt sensor.

No manual.

I need a suggest what is wrong with my Octavia 2.0TDI PD140 2009. When I started the engine and drove off, it feels flat and sluggish below 1,800rpm, never felt that before, but after 10 minute it feels lot of torque what it should be. I have looked on list here: Turbo hoses no split or o-ring leaking all fine Turbo are new, the waste-gate is function no seized Vacuum pipes all fine No head gasket leaking through coolant, no oil in the water A bit of puff light grey smoke out of the exhaust in the first 5 second after start which it happens before, all glow plugs are fine. So no error codes. Would that be MAF? the plug are fine, no loose or dirty connectors, how can I test it with multimeter of ohms or voltage? Hayes manual doesn't mentioned what current should I look out for?

It is the third time my wing mirrior smashed by a car in 9 months. I moved in and live in country lanes and narrow roads. They drive too fast and do not pay attention. I want to know if it can be overridden by VCDS to allow unrestricted closing of the mirror at any speed? The current limit is 20mph above to prevent the mirror wing from closing. This is frustrating as my old Honda Jazz mk1 can close at any speed!

Done my timing belt, checked the torsion value was 1.79, so I set it back to zero, but it was impossible to match zero, but 0.49 is the best that I could do. The injection starts when it is cold at 5.0, and it reaches full warmth at 3.8, 5.0 which is over the estimated of max 2.0 recommended. Should I be worried?

I smell a fumes out of the back, I see the EGR cooler gasket have black carbon through the gap. So next weekend have to remove to inspect if required a new gasket or whatever, by the way my coolant system runs fine and lovely hot not too hot like in the summer. Fab.

Thanks I will try this.

I can't understand, I have bought a bleeding tool kit, like a cup, put on the top of the coolant tank realse the bubbling. Why wasn't it bleeding 100% from the matrix? I don't get it.

Update: I am deaf, and my mum heard a bubbling noise from the engine. It is definitely air trapped somewhere, and I found the top hose from the matrix heating too low pressure when I opened a big gush of water came out, and I quickly put it back, the hose became full pressure. Now the temperature rises and stay 90c on the gauge. My diagnostic tool is now at 79 °C with an outdoor temperature of 4 °C, much better than before. The maxtric top hose should have a bleed valve, as it would have made my life easier.

I will show you picture the flat pipe tomorrow.

Before my car was overheating in traffic, the thermostat was stuck closed. I tested it won't opened so I know it's faulty. I replaced a new thermostat, not OEM, but I did not test and fit it straight away. The issue appears cooler than before. I have bleeding everywhere. I thought it might be a new thermostat fault, so I bought an expensive OEM thermostat, but it did not make any difference. The hose on the side to matrix feels flat but hot, expect more air, or is it normal?

The thermostat was installed after I tested it in hot water at 88 °c, and it started to open. The old thermostat was not faulty. I fitted a new O-ring, with no sealant used. After a 10-mile drive, the temperature never reached 90 °c, so it was the same old story- meaning it wasn't the thermostat. When the car has been idle for about 5 minutes, the temperature gauge drops to 65 °c, and the cooling fan is not on. The radiator is full, and the top hose from the radiator to the side of the cylinder block and to the matrix heating feels hot, but flat, as if there's air in the system. I bled it three times using my funnel tool to release air no more bubbles. Are the top hoses supposed to have pressure, or is it normal for them not to?

My car is a BKD 2.0TDI 140BHP 2009, I don't remember seeing two thermostats. I will get another thermostat and put in hot water to test before installing it. I will update later, thanks.

It is manual.

My car went overheated due to the thermostat being stuck open, and I replaced it with a new Febi thermostat with a new o-ring, but it is open at 84 °C; the older one was 87 °C. The car is still overheating! After replacing the thermostat, I removed the timing belt and inspected the water pump. I noticed the plastic impeller was loose and not properly gripping the other side's pulley. To address this, I purchased a new water pump with a metal impeller. However, when it arrived, it turned out to be a different type of impeller than shown in the product picture. After fitting, bleeding the coolant 100% After this, the temperature would rise very slowly to 72°C, whereas before it would normally reach 90°C (halfway on the gauge). I wondered if more air was trapped, so I bled the system further. The temperature reached 74°C after 30 minutes of driving in 0°C weather. Strangely, after stopping at Sainsbury's for half an hour, the temperature quickly rose to 90°C five minutes after setting off again. The next day, the car again stayed at 74°C and not 90°C, but then after 20 minutes with the engine off, it reached 90°C within 10 minutes of driving afterwards. Was something wrong with the design of the Impeller effect the flow of water? My old pump is in the first picture, and the new one that I have on now is in the second picture. Has the new Thermostat develop a fault already? I can’t think what is wrong with my car.

I have tapped a bit more, no leaking so far, thanks! I was a bit afraid to tap a bit more cause it went in too far, like on my old Punto, it was tough to remove when it pushed too deep and reapply the new seal again. Merry Christmas.

I have fitted a new seal on the front crank, but it leaking for some reason might have done something wrong. So I took it off and went through it again put another new seal, I hope it looks ok, or do I need to tap in a bit further? Thanks.

Thanks very much for your help! Merry Christmas.