kkarlsen_06

If I didn’t have this I certainly would buy it! It makes keeping my big trunk-stuff from sliding around and falling over. I LOVE IT!

In an earlier post I talked about how my xenon ballasts were toast because of water intrusion in my headlights. In the same post (which you can read here) I talked about how my AFS slave-modules were the first things to fail. Ever since I bought the vehicle I’ve had to watch the dash warning lamp and the Maxidot pop-up every time I drive the car. That changed today. I ordered two of the AFS-modules brand new from a Norwegian website called Lyshelten.no, and the product link you can find here. I made sure that everything, all text, on this part matched the original part, as I know even slight differences has caused unsolvable problems for a lot of people on the internet. Only difference was the manufacturing date. The parts finally arrived today, and I got around to doing the repair. During the xenon-ballast replacement the whole headlamp had to come out. It was borderline impossible to unscrew the ballast any other way. But after I had performed that job, I noticed there could be enough space to fit a screwdriver through the hole for the fog light. It required a lot of tinkering, but I eventually managed to unscrew two of the screws of both modules that was on the fog-light-side of the AFS-unit (keep in mind that the passenger side was the hardest due to the headlight washer motor and other stuff which got in the way). When those were unscrewed there was one screw on each left which was easy to get to from inside the engine compartment. Afterwards I could just push the module downward slightly and stick the new one in, on both sides. I screwed them in place, and next came the part that worried me the most. I had read lots of places that programming was needed. I put the fuses for the AFS slave-modules back in into the fusebox. I had removed them prior because they caused error messages ALL THE TIME. Afterwards I turned on the ignition and connected my OBDeleven. I went into the control unit 55 - headlight range. The 6 fault codes from before persisted but the two top ones had now turned green😁 (Which means communication was established) Keep in mind the «no signal/communication» errors were causing the other ones. Now only the coding was left. I went into the coding tab in OBDeleven and tried to recode the existing code for the master unit, hoping it would program the two slave units. It didn’t, and stated that the function could not be performed. This made me nervous. I tried going into the subsystems (the slave modules) and looking at the code from there, but it stated the code could not be read. I decided to turn the ignition off and back on again. To my surprise and delight, the warning lamp on the dash was now gone, and all the errors in the 55 module had disappeared. I was very happy and decided to perform an output test, and now surely, the swivel lights worked as well. Before this, the output test would just return «function cancelled, marginal conditions have not been met», but now it actually worked. Needless to say I’ve been driving around enjoying the view of a warning light-free dash. The lights do actually perform the «dance» when starting the engine now. One thing worth mentioning is that you should recalibrate the height of the headlight beams after this procedure. Information on that you can find here. This is called a basic setting. After reading through my struggles; if you still cannot get it to work, make sure you have performed these steps, as they seem crucial: Tried to brush of the connectors and made sure no connector pins are stuck in the headlight socket Bought NEW (very important) slave modules, as used ones to my understanding cannot be reprogrammed, and the coding in any used case has to be perfect in order for the master module to recognize the slave modules Tried to «program» the master module Cleared fault codes Turned ignition on and off I’m really proud of this achievement considering how sparse information was available online. My hope is that someone will have the need for what I learnt during this experience. Feel free to contact me for any help. Thank for your time, Hjalmar

Hi Andrehj I understand the confusion. I misspoke. What I should have said «the trickiest part was by far the connection between the bumper and the top metal of the front» See the pic for which part I’m talking about. . To do this I had to pull away the wheel liner to access the screws on the inside. Please watch the YouTube video in my update from 0:53 to 2:00 to understand exactly what I’m talking about I thought about removing the wheel, and the liner, but I didn’t think it was necessary because of the video I watched. In addition, I thought it would be intimidating so I left it. I now get that removing the whole liner would actually make the process much easier. When summer comes and I’m replacing the AFS-units, I’ll try to do what you just said. Thank you for the response!

I managed to get the whole lamp-housing out. My original thought (to replace the ballast through the wheel liner or similar) was borderline impossible, so I found taking the whole lamp out to be the easiest. This of course meant that I had to partially remove the bumper. I didn’t completely remove the bumper, I only loosened the left side, so that I could wiggle the lamp out. This video I found on YouTube shows how to remove the bumper on the Skoda Superb MK2: The trickiest part was by far the wheel liner, as I had to hold it away while screwing with a drill that I had pushed through the fog lamp opening. I managed to solve it in the end. Now my low beam works perfectly fine. I’m quite happy. This summer I’ll have to change the AFS-modules though. That one had blue water coming out of it… Have an awesome day reader!

Because of faith, my boot lid started malfunctioning today. When trying to open it, it would unlatch, then make a long beep (the same one it makes when it is obstructed) before closing again. So I opened OBDeleven, and it had stored fault codes in 6D regarding the Hall effect sensor for the #2 motor. I checked the live data, and surely, when trying to open the boot, the #2 sensor reported the same value as when closed, contrary to sensor #1 which reported plausible values. That made me understand that 6D thought that something was obstructing the right side of the lid (motor #2 is on the right side), since the reported position value didn’t change. Therefore it stopped and reversed. At first I thought the sensor could be faulty, but after short research I found that the cables inside the harness that goes to the #2 motor often break. I unscrewed the #2 motor and disconnected the wires. I found that a yellow wire inside the rubber protector had broken. I took the whole thing inside and soldered the yellow wire, making sure to extend it a little, and when remounting the motor, the sensor now reports plausible values and the lid opens all the way. The yellow wire had broken very close to the port on the motor, so soldering was very hard. I also saw other wires were becoming brittle, but didn’t want to cut and solder those because this would probably increase the thickness of the wire in that part such that the rubber wouldn’t go over it easily. This video showed me the fault and how to fix it: Anyway, it works now. Hope this helps someone, even if it doesn’t solve OPs problem.

Do you have any updates per now?

How do I know if anyone is seeing this post, and how can I help boost engagement?

Good evening mate. Regarding your second issue; do you have access to OBDeleven or VCDS to scan for possible error codes in the Deck Lid control unit - hex 6D? In my Superb MK2, this only happens when the lid is obstructed from opening. Maybe an error code could shine light on this problem. My first thought is that it seems odd that this would occur because of the switch. The reason I find it odd is because I believe two of the wires are for lighting the button up, and two of the wires are for the switch itself. I could be wrong though. I don’t see how the control unit would react like this to a short on any of these, as a short between the power wires would have nothing to do with the lid control, and a short between the switch wires would just make the lid go back down again. Maybe cross-shorts could lead to other things. Again, a scan of the 6D module could shine light on the issue.

Hi fellow Skoda owners. The ballast on my left xenon has failed (Superb MK2). I know it’s mounted under the headlamp and the “correct” way is to remove the front bumper, but has anyone managed to change it from the wheel arch or engine well instead? The previous owner tapped into the 12V high beam wire for a relay (aux lights) and didn’t put the dust cover back on. That left the headlight exposed, so moisture got in and killed the ballast — and also the AFS control module. I’ve ordered a new cover from AliExpress and taped over the hole for now, but I really need to sort the ballast soon so I can drive safely in the dark — I live in a place with long, dark winters. Has anyone done this before? Appreciate any tips! Greetings from Norway PS: Pictures are for illustration purposes