Zlatko580

No idea, I didn't go that deep. Also never saw MU which start with 0, usualy starts with 8 or 7.

There is no too much data unfortunately, we can try and experiment. If it does not working you can write original .bin = return to default state.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535342-activating-smartlink-on-swing-3/page/2/ You can see at page 2, @Lokizz did it with desoldering. I not recommend desoldering due to risk of mistake. First try without desoldering with/without 1.8v adapter.

ODIS/VCDS will show faults under the infotainment, or "no communication" if infotainment not working at all. This will give you direction to the problem.

Are you sure the display is oriented correctly after assembling the unit? There might be something inside the connector or a similar issue. You should also check the system with ODIS or VCDS for any errors and confirm whether you can access the infotainment module. That will give you feedback what might be causing the problem. When soldering, make sure the EEPROM chip is oriented correctly. Check carefully that no legs are shorted and that every single pin is properly soldered. You need to use a magnifier to inspect the solder joints thoroughly.

I'm not sure... Have you checked fuses?

You can read it with clip even without 1.8v adapter, because ST95256-R can be read in range 1.8v-5.5v. I did it with, and without 1.8v adapter, working in both options.

Try it again, unsolder, and solder again... It is probably not well soldered. However I strongly discourage desoldering as it is not simple proces, if you want to do it properly. In my experience, I did this process of activating smartlink 4 times, every single time it was possible without unsoldering... If problem persist I recommend you take unit at some mobile phone service or similar, and ask them do soldering of eeprom chip.

Both questions are already answered on first post. Red LED was lit, as you can see in the picture on first post in this thread.

Yes, that is it. You must be sure everything is connected acording to this tutorial. And try couple times to connect with clamp, if it still not working then probably you have to desolder chip from pcb...

I did it without desoldering, few people reporter the same way. On the other hand some people desoldered it. Try first on PCB, if not working then desolder and try again. 95256 is EEPROM.

Forget chat gpt, it Is possible with clamp, I did it, and few more people also...

1.bin is original. @Zlatko580 and @wegorz-pwo Please respect the forum rules and post in English. Thank you, Briskoda Admin.

1.bin 1.bin_patched.bin

Yes, of course.

Hi, I believe these head units are very similar, probably based on the same platform, so it’s possible that this guide will work for them as well. However, I haven’t personally tested it, so I can’t guarantee that it will work and you proceed at your own risk. If you decide to try it, take extra care and make sure everything is aligned with this tutorial. Make sure the EEPROM is the same as the one used in Škoda units, and check that the script prints FAZIT and Train correctly, etc. Also, even if the script is different for SEAT and Škoda and something goes wrong, you can always write the original EEPROM back. That should return head unit to its default state.

Well, if it prints FAZIT and Train correctly in the command prompt, that’s a good sign that the script worked. Glad to see you found the problem. Now you just need to write the patched BIN to the EEPROM again, which is kind of boring if you’ve already assembled the whole unit.

Basicaly you need to read EEPROM, save it to a something.bin, apply python script on it. Script will create new file something.bin_patched.bin, write back to the EEPROM. This procedure is explained in details on first post.

Indeed this is little bit easier way to do it. But they not share details unfortunately. As I understood, you have to remove device from the car, and somehow to access same eeprom chip but from outside.

Can you send me link to the post on drive.ru where is stated to be possible to do this without serial programmer? I know there is software "MIBHelper" but it works only for Bolero/Amundsen/Columbus, unfortunately not Swing...

Good job. Yes, reading eeprom with a clamp is tricky. I got feedback from people using different type of "clamp". I didnt tested, but it could be another option beside desoldering.

Bro you give no information, does a USB flash drive work when you plug it in? Do you have any error code stored on 5F infotainment system? I use standard USB-A to USB-C with Samsung phone...

Then it is not releated to the multimedia unit itself. Its releated to USB port, USB cable, or phone itself. Try with other USB cable - phone, make sure USB port is functional, try to insert flash drive with music and see does it recognize flash drive for example. Or with some diagnostic tool check for error codes on 5F. VCDS can be bought preety cheap, for example 20-25€. EDIT: On my car octavia 3, I had broken usb port. Plastic part inside port was missing, so I was able to insert usb cable on two oposite ways, but only one is correct. When cable is insert wrong way, error code is stored in 5F, you need to clear that error in order to make usb port functional again.

I didnt updated mine, because it works perfectly, no need to update. When you press app button does it say that you need to unlock it or say "connect your phone theough usb..."? Also you can scan 5F infotainment address with vcds or odis to see is there any error codes. When I used bad cable, he triggered error, something like "bad usb connection" or something simillar.

Problem with USB cable or USB port. I had problem with both. Try another cable and make sure you insert it in usb port "correct" way. My USB port was missing plastic part inside, so it was possible to insert usb cable wrong way. Try to restart MIB, press and hold power button, then try with another usb cable, and make sure you insert cable in correct way.